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Rear trailing arm/carrier bushing replacement
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01-09-2019, 02:43 PM | #1 |
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Rear trailing arm/carrier bushing replacement
Hi,
My '06 330i is nearing 200k miles. I've replaced (almost) all suspension arms/bushings with either the M3 ones, or Manzo (for the toe arms.) The only bushings not replaced are the rear lower control arm bushings and the trailing arm inner and outer bushings. Even with the refresh (and alignment) the car still feels loose/wiggly over expansion joints and hard shifts. Always to the same side. From research, it sounds likely the rear trailing arm bushings (in the hub carrier, and the subframe) may be the cause. I haven't found any DIY for this, and in particular, what tool is best for getting the old bushings out. The stories I've read indicate that it's best to have the 'right' tool to press the bushing out. I've seen the Pelican instructions: https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm If you've read this far, I have a few questions: - Does anyone have a pointer to the right tool to do this at the carrier, as well as at the subframe? I've seen E46 tools, but do they work for this case? - If using OEM or M3 replacements, does the hose clamp method work to compress the shell, or is the special tool recommended? - Recommendations for replacement bushings - I've seen PowerFlex, Whiteline, M3, and OEM - and preferences? - Do the lower control arm bushings go bad frequently? Thanks in advance! Kevin M. '06 330i 6MT |
01-14-2019, 06:52 AM | #2 |
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Best to get the tool as they are a pig of a job, but would recommend the powerflex bushes and dont need to the job again then
https://powerflexstore.co.uk/bmw/e90...ies-2005-2013/ |
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01-14-2019, 08:02 AM | #3 |
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There is a special tool that can be used to remove and press these back in. I'm not sure where PP is getting the idea you can use a hose clamp on the split one... cause that is a joke. Even with the specialized tool, it is a serious pain in the arse to keep those four (two on both sides) lined up.
There is a company in Europe (https://www.strongflex.eu/en/) that actually makes replacements for all the bushings in the rear end. Many don't make the two center ones that are in the subframe. |
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01-14-2019, 07:33 PM | #4 |
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Thanks for the feedback!
At this point, to make life hopefully easier, I'm looking at these three: - Whiteline https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro.../spf3953k~spr/ - SuperPro https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro.../spf3953k~spr/ - PowerFlex https://www.ecstuning.com/b-powerfle...fr5-411x2~pfx/ Any feedback on any of these? Why are the Whiteline ones so much less expensive? Thanks, Kevin |
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01-15-2019, 06:53 AM | #5 |
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Whiteline are on the cheaper end of the scale when it comes to bushes (chinese made)
Superpro and Powerflex are both quality items Powerflex will be cheaper for you from here https://powerflexstore.co.uk/bmw/e90...2013-pfr5-411/ as you will get 20% knocked off as you dont pay UK tax and its free shipping to USA |
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01-15-2019, 07:48 AM | #6 |
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get creative with some threaded rod, nuts and washers. Another way is to just burn them out. If you replace them with poly, they should just slide right in, and you'll never need to touch them again.
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01-15-2019, 12:43 PM | #7 |
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Thanks for this -
It looks like all the options have their own sleeve, so I'll have to press out the original sleeve and press in the new one. These two articles are good: Burning out bushing/sleeve removal: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-...the-right-way/ Removing/installing using creative methods as you suggest - particularly interesting about rod/bolt strength, coarse thread, etc.: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-...thout-a-press/ |
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01-15-2019, 12:45 PM | #8 | |
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Thanks for the link - with the current exchange rate that is certainly cheaper than ECS or PowerFlex USA.
I like that their sleeve is separate from the bushing, so easier to deal with later, if need be. Quote:
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01-15-2019, 02:47 PM | #10 |
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A few posts reference these bushing being a pain to get out.
Looks like Koch KT20451 is the right tool for this, but finding it (at least at a reasonable price) is harder than expected. For a DIY kit, I'd love to find a thrust bearing that would withstand the pressure exerted. Last edited by ktm137; 01-15-2019 at 04:32 PM.. |
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01-15-2019, 04:31 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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01-16-2019, 01:36 PM | #12 |
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For those that have replaced the RTAB, did you replace both the inner and outer, or just the outer?
Since they're the same bushing, I'd think both would be worn out about equal? |
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01-16-2019, 10:23 PM | #13 |
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Not even sure how I tracked this down the other day, but I'm hoping this is the right/same tool for this job:
BGS 8716 Longitudinal Handlebar Rubber Tool for BMW https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JABHW..._AgaqCbN94H65X Edit - the item above is the WRONG tool. I was able to use parts of it for the lower rear ball joint. Looks like the right tool is: BGS 8829: http://www.bgstechnic.com/en/catalog...456588/page/70 I've ordered that from Amazon Germany - will see if that's right. Last edited by ktm137; 01-31-2019 at 11:55 AM.. |
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01-16-2019, 10:42 PM | #14 |
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To answer your other question Yes, lower control arm bushings don't last very long. Pot holes and spirited driving, time, weather, etc. can wear them out fast. I would replace those first and see how the car feels, although no doubt with new trailing arm poly bushings the rear will tighten up. But I would do the LCA bushings as well. That is one of the weak parts of the rear suspension (meaning they don't last) that should not be ignored. There are replacement options for those too.
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01-17-2019, 11:56 AM | #15 | |
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Thanks for this!
Just to confirm, do both the inner and outer LCA bushings go quickly? Looks like the poly inner ones don't have a sleeve - I haven't found instructions yet, so not sure if you burn out the old ones (leaving the sleeve), or press them out, sleeve and all. Quote:
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02-25-2023, 10:39 AM | #16 | |
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