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Why not run an m10 nozzle instead of m7?
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09-20-2010, 10:42 AM | #23 |
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man i need big turbo's
I run a cm10 @ 90/10 or 100% with spray starting at 7 and maxing out at 12.5 Seems to work pretty well
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09-20-2010, 05:06 PM | #25 |
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In all out (20psi) stock turbo drag race applications (where we are also running race gas), I haven't seen any difference between running an m7 and an m10 jet. Not so surprising there since I wasn't relying on meth for knock surpression. On the street running high boost and pump gas, the m10 does seem to (at times) work better than the m7. The only real drawback of using the m10 jet is that it depletes the meth tank really fast. If you don't mind filling up more often, go for the m10 (or dual m5s). No real downside as far as I can tell.
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09-20-2010, 05:26 PM | #26 | |
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09-20-2010, 07:46 PM | #28 |
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I hear you but I just dont like the way the M10 nozzle atomizes...more like droplets if anything compared to the M7 nozzle...When I have nitrous working I will have the M7 as the main and use the M10 nozzle for the added fuel for nitrous.....I might even try out the M10 nozzle in the meantime till I get this nitrous working just to see the difference for myself..
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09-20-2010, 09:58 PM | #29 |
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I set my start and max psi on the controller lower (so meth starts flowing quicker and reaches full strength faster) and that actually helped a bunch with what I described on the previous page. for now im going to stick with the m7 but perhaps at some point I'll give that new m10 a whirl
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09-20-2010, 10:05 PM | #30 | |
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09-21-2010, 05:16 PM | #31 | |
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09-21-2010, 05:19 PM | #32 |
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09-21-2010, 05:32 PM | #33 | |
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Besides who cares, the boost pressure sucks the hell out of that spray and those droplets turn into a stream anyway due to the boost. My primary reason I moved to a CM10 is because it has more threads than a DO10 nozzle. It goes all the way into the bung adapter where the DO10 would not.
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09-21-2010, 05:50 PM | #34 | |
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09-21-2010, 05:53 PM | #36 | |
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Are you guys seeing something different? |
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09-21-2010, 09:16 PM | #37 |
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09-22-2010, 02:39 AM | #38 |
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Im running a cm 5 and a cm 7 trying hold 10+ timing at around 18 psi...map 9 jb3. I have had to resort to 95/5% meth/water to keep a pull at 5800 in 4th gear from plaguing me. Car pulls like a freight train but my timing says to drop down a map. Just bumped up the psi a bit on the pump to see if that will make a difference in atomization.... keeping the octane high and usable on 93 pump gas. No bog at all!
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09-22-2010, 07:26 AM | #39 |
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Thanks. I dropped mine to just below 5 this morning. Didn't get a chance to log, but looked like the flow signal lit up between 8-9psi on my boost gauge. Didn't notice any bogging or negative effects so I'll leave it there and log.
Here's the log from when I had the min setting at ~7. The boost is at 11.8 before flow starts, and notice the big spike in flow at the beginning. Did you notice a spike like this in flow in your logs as well? |
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09-22-2010, 08:59 AM | #40 |
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i just switched to an m10 yesterday from an m7. m7 is more than enough for stock turbos, but since you have an upgrade an m10 may actually benefit you. all the people using a dual nozzle set up with huge nozzles instead of downsizing for the dual, are really only wasting their meth, that or they need the extra fueling for nitrous. look up a HP to Nozzle size chart (anyone that's interested) you'll see what's recommended for what hp application, so it should work for any level of mods .
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09-22-2010, 09:19 AM | #41 | |
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With that said, evaporation of pure methanol should not matter when you use a nozzle that flows 500 ml/min or 750 ml/min. The droplet size and corresponding surface area are not that important since methanol evaporates so easily. This really comes down to water content. You guys should very closely look at the quantity of water you are flowing by looking at your ratio to determine what is best for you setup. In my testing, I have found that about 300 ml/min - 350 ml/min of water is the most you can flow before you will quench on this car. Conversely, I have not found any quantity of methanol that will cause the car to quench at this point. Before you write off the need for water in the mixture, remember water is the component that really removes heat in the combustion chamber and the latent heat of vaporization is considerably higher than methanol. Using water is critical in removing heat from a very hot engine. |
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09-22-2010, 09:42 AM | #42 | |
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Then again, i have an aftermarket FMIC. I'm tempted to log 19.5 psi on 93+meth just to show that the M10 nozzle is superior to the M7 in regards to adding timing to the equation.
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09-22-2010, 10:25 AM | #43 | |
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09-22-2010, 10:28 AM | #44 |
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Howdy Folks,
I used to run a single M7 nozzle and now I've switched to a single M10 nozzle. I'm also using a 80-20 meth-water mix. I have not really noticed much of a difference in term of performance. All my 1/4 mile runs are usually within .2 second or within .5 mph of each other. That variance I would say is due to ambient weather (highs of 93 degF and lows of 58 degF) and traction (varying tire pressures, burnouts and track prep). It is quite possible with stock turbos + racegas, we may be splitting hairs. The only other thing I can think of is it might better to getting IATs lower than ambient temp on really, really hot days. I don't have datalogs with M7 to compare against my datalogs of M10. Next time I'll keep a spare M7 in the glove to test with. At normal temps (70-80), I saw no noticeable difference in IAT. Junk
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