[BrutalN54]

Here's my issue.. a few days ago, my car was driving perfectly normal as always.. I went into a drive thru n ended up being there for quite some time (had the AC blasting since it was a HOT HOT 110 degree day)

anyway, out of nowhere my dash started throwing all kinds of random lights like ABS, SRS, DSC, Battery, coolant.. - u name it, it more than likely popped up lol PLUS the wipers went crazy n I couldnt turn them off.. I did some research on the codes that I read using MHD n I eventually came to the conclusion that I would replace just the voltage regulator since it's much cheaper & easier to replace and if that didnt fix my issue THEN I would replace the entire alternator... I also ended up having to replace and register a new battery...

nowww, after replacing said parts, I cleared codes n started my car.. It runs perfectly normal like it did before (Yesss!! I win!) Except now when I scan for codes, 2E97 constantly pops up.. it doesnt illuminate CEL on dashw but it repeatedly shows up when I clear n check for codes in both MHD and ProTool...

so my question here is where does this code stem from? Will it do any harm? Could it just be from the voltage regulators being different? Because the NEW one has a part# of F00M346088 while the old one that I took off is F00M346033.. Also, how can I get rid of the code? Should I have just replaced the entire alternator instead? Now, say that I DO replace the entire alternator, if the code still persists, what could be the issue then? What should be my next step thereafter?

Sorry for the 21 questions guys lol this issue has just been gnawing at me... badly... I cant stand when my car isnt running right, and/or error codes.. it just hurts my soul :-/ I appreciate any n all help! Thanks guys

[Tunafish]

I will only comment on the all the weird codes.. Mine was because of the coils (bosch but hear same for Delphi) and happened when hot. If your issue comes back and is heat related.. Cant help you on your current issue.

[BrutalN54]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

I will only comment on the all the weird codes.. Mine was because of the coils (bosch but hear same for Delphi) and happened when hot. If your issue comes back and is heat related.. Cant help you on your current issue.

Damn, that's weird... but yeah its DEFINITELY heat related, I know that for sure cuz I maintain this car to the T so it drives perfect.. and like I mentioned before, the car was driving normal as always, it's just when I was sitting at a stand still with the AC blasting, I'm assuming it just built up way too much heat n wasnt able to vent/pull the heat away from certain components in the engine bay n ultimately fried/burnt something electrical.. I'm gna have to go over every single little harness/wire/connection n give it a once over to be safe (headache n a half ) anyway, thanks man, I appreciate ur input

[IllSic_Design]

I had the exact same issue 1 month ago, happened the exact same way as you. Then I replaced the regulator and got that same code as you , 2E97. After research, it looks like the DME is too sensitive/picky so it throws this code, multiple people have it happen after changing to this new regulator, there is even a comment in the review of this regulator on FCPeuro stating the same thing we are experiencing. A thread I found said that BMW updated software to fix this issue, but I don't know if it's true.

Anyways, after getting this code, it will stay present and always be there, although you will not have any actual issues. I, as well as others, just ended up getting a new(I bought a reman Bosch from FCPeuro) alternator and no more codes.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BrutalN54

... my car was driving perfectly normal as always.. I went into a drive thru n ended up being there for quite some time (had the AC blasting since it was a HOT HOT 110 degree day)... dash started throwing all kinds of random lights like ABS, SRS, DSC, Battery, coolant.. PLUS the wipers went crazy n I couldnt turn them off.. came to the conclusion that I would replace just the voltage regulator since it's much cheaper & easier to replace and if that didnt fix my issue THEN I would replace the entire alternator... I also ended up having to replace and register a new battery...
It runs perfectly normal like it did before (Yesss!! I win!) Except now when I scan for codes, 2E97 constantly pops up.. it doesnt illuminate CEL on dashw but it repeatedly shows up when I clear n check for codes in both MHD and ProTool...Could it just be from the voltage regulators being different? Because the NEW one has a part# of F00M346088 while the old one that I took off is F00M346033.... it just hurts my soul :-/ I appreciate any n all help! Thanks guys

My SWAG is:
1) Your soul will be just fine
2) If the Alternator you put the Bosch Regulator in (Bosch Part# F00M346088 & BMW Part# 123117561939) was a Bosch 180 Amp Alternator, your Battery, Electrical System, Alternator, and ALL the ECU's that caused the light show from "Over-voltage" will be just fine now. I trust you cleaned up any spilled battery acid in the battery well, and connected the "Vent Tube"?
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/BS-12317561939

3) If you drive with Hidden Menu 9.00 showing System Voltage as Live Data on your instrument cluster, and Voltage with engine running stays between 13.5V & 14.8V and your battery keeps its charge, then the Fault Code is NOT of any significance -- just something about "Generator"/Alternator Identification is NOT properly recognized the way your DME is programmed.
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

There are FOUR (4) different definitions of the Hex-code "2E97", and a different P-code for EACH of those 4 definitions, as per this Bentley Info:
POA3B | 2E97 | Generator Over Temperature
P0620 | 2E97 | Generator Control Circuit
P3223 | 2E97 | Generator Mechanical
P324A | 2E97 | Generator Type Implausible

If you don't have a Scan Tool that reads P-codes, or does NOT provide the proper definition AND/OR the corresponding P-code, just stop by a local Advance Auto or Autozone, and get someone to read the code, making sure you take a photo of the Tool Screen and Note the Definition & P-Code. My final SWAG is that it will be either P324A, Generator Type Implausible, OR P0620, Generator Control Circuit.

Unless you forgot to hook up the IBS connection to the Chassis (smaller of two IBS connectors), or forgot to connect the IBS connector to the new Voltage Regulator, odds are that the new part just does NOT communicate (via BSD Bus) with the "Generator ID" process by the DME in the same way the old one did. If the new Regulator keeps the battery properly charged, WITHOUT Over-voltage which CAN damage ECU's and the Battery, as well as causing the Light Show & "Wipers from Hell" you experienced, WHY would you spend $400+ on a Reman Alternator?

If you have INPA/ISTA, do the Alternator Activation/Triggering procedure after connecting either program to the DME. If you can control Alternator Output voltage with INPA/ISTA, then the DME IS controlling it. The proof is in use of Hidden Menu 9.00 (or scan tool reading Live Data) as you drive.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[BrutalN54]

Thanks to all u guys! Seriously, u have no idea how much you guys helped ease my pain lol I really appreciate the detailed info! I'll let u guys know what I find.. as of now (haven't installed new alternator yet) I have been monitoring voltage and it fluctuates between 13.6-14.2 so I'm assuming all is well.. I will definitely update once anything changes.

[BrutalN54]

So it's been about a week since I replaced the voltage regulator+battery and everything is still perfectly fine.. still getting the 2E97 code but thankfully it's the only code I'm getting.. seems to have no effect on anything but I figured I'd give u guys an update..

I already have a new alternator.. just waiting til my next day off to tackle that job then I'll update once again.

[lookalikehuuh]

I presume the regulator you replaced is not OEM? The error can happen when shit quality parts are used that do not fall within the proper spec, or do not report back properly to the ECU what its true status is. For example "Duracrap" parts from Autozone.

Install the new alternator and make sure its a true quality unit OE or OEM unit do not install ones from Autozone/Oreilly or the like. The odds that you will have the issue continue is very likely and could actually cause other sensors in the vehicle not to work. I know this from first hand experience.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

I presume the regulator you replaced is not OEM? The error can happen when shit quality parts are used that do not fall within the proper spec, or do not report back properly to the ECU what its true status is. For example "Duracrap" parts from Autozone.

Install the new alternator and make sure its a true quality unit OE or OEM unit do not install ones from Autozone/Oreilly or the like. The odds that you will have the issue continue is very likely and could actually cause other sensors in the vehicle not to work. I know this from first hand experience.

No, as I said in my post this happens with Bosch replacement regulators also. It's a known issue(if you search hard enough) that has happened to everyone who has replaced their OE voltage regulator(which is Bosch) with the new rev part number which is all that's available

[BrutalN54]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

I presume the regulator you replaced is not OEM? The error can happen when shit quality parts are used that do not fall within the proper spec, or do not report back properly to the ECU what its true status is. For example "Duracrap" parts from Autozone.

Install the new alternator and make sure its a true quality unit OE or OEM unit do not install ones from Autozone/Oreilly or the like. The odds that you will have the issue continue is very likely and could actually cause other sensors in the vehicle not to work. I know this from first hand experience.

What makes u "presume" it's not OEM? The one that I REPLACED was original to the car (part#BOS-F00M346033) and the one I replaced it WITH is a brand new Bosch from FCPEURO (part#BOS-F00M346088).. alternator is also Bosch..

[lookalikehuuh]

I presumed because proper OE/OEM parts should not cause such issues, my apologies for assuming. However, with that out of the way, after further research it appears you need to get part F00M346089 not the current one you have installed based on your original part number.

In other words you don't have the correct part number installed and that is why the vehicle is throwing the code essentially saying you are out of spec because you truly are out of its spec.

It appears to be a somewhat bespoke part for very specific version of the Bosch alternator based on my research. Best of luck!

You can purchase it from these fine retailers:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...0M-346-089-INT

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/146326...paign=feed_BMW

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

No, as I said in my post this happens with Bosch replacement regulators also. It's a known issue(if you search hard enough) that has happened to everyone who has replaced their OE voltage regulator(which is Bosch) with the new rev part number which is all that's available

if YOU search hard enough you would realize, this is the incorrect part and is well documented that this *88 part is the not correct replacement for *33 original part. I have actually reached out to FCP Euro so they can correct the compatability list on their site. The correct replacement part number to purchase ends in *89

[BrutalN54]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

I presumed because proper OE/OEM parts should not cause such issues, my apologies for assuming. However, with that out of the way, after further research it appears you need to get part F00M346089 not the current one you have installed based on your original part number.

In other words you don't have the correct part number installed and that is why the vehicle is throwing the code essentially saying you are out of spec because you truly are out of its spec.

It appears to be a somewhat bespoke part for very specific version of the Bosch alternator based on my research. Best of luck!

You can purchase it from these fine retailers:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...0M-346-089-INT

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/146326...paign=feed_BMW

No worries man.. thanks for the info, what u said makes total sense as to why the code wont go away.. and thanks for the links too, I appreciate that

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

if YOU search hard enough you would realize, this is the incorrect part and is well documented that this *88 part is the not correct replacement for *33 original part. I have actually reached out to FCP Euro so they can correct the compatability list on their site. The correct replacement part number to purchase ends in *89

Wow, learn something new every day. Thanks for the info, I had searched plenty and had not seen this info/found anything about the *33 not being the correct replacement. Appreciate it, wish I had found this out before, oh well.

[vladskies]

Can confirm

Installed a new voltage regulator and my 2E97 code went away

Got a new battery too, had the original one from 2008 so thought it would be a good time for that

Hope the same will work for you

[BrutalN54]

Originally Posted by vladskies

Can confirm

Installed a new voltage regulator and my 2E97 code went away

Got a new battery too, had the original one from 2008 so thought it would be a good time for that

Hope the same will work for you

Nice.. that's great news! Do u recall what part# the old regulator was compared to the new one?

[vladskies]

Originally Posted by BrutalN54

Nice.. that's great news! Do u recall what part# the old regulator was compared to the new one?

The box is the new part, and that's the old piece sitting on it

The metal notches were half dull compared to the new one

Let me know if you have any further questions, be happy to help

PS. I drove around town with INPA on and was getting 14.2V with a new battery and old regulator but still throwing the code. After putting on a new regulator everything went back to normal.

[BrutalN54]

Originally Posted by vladskies

The box is the new part, and that's the old piece sitting on it

The metal notches were half dull compared to the new one

Let me know if you have any further questions, be happy to help

PS. I drove around town with INPA on and was getting 14.2V with a new battery and old regulator but still throwing the code. After putting on a new regulator everything went back to normal.

Niiice! Right on man, I'll be ordering the one ending in "89" right now then returning the one ending in "88" to FCPEURO once I install the new one and confirm the code goes away.. fingers crossed

[KAR]

Bumping this

Much appreciation to everyone posting here. I’ve been refurbishing my 2009 135i, with ~81K miles on the clock. I replaced just about everything that was worn including the VR. It was operating perfectly with no codes; in fact the brushes were only about 1/2 worn, but after 12 years I figured it was worth replacing preventatively. The one I got from Turner had the SKU ending in 88. After months of work I finally fired up the engine again. My efforts were rewarded with no fault codes... except 2E97. After triple checking the connections I eventually reinstalled the original VR, and the code disappeared. It took me some time to find this thread, and after reading, I started making phone calls.

At the time of this writing ECS, Turner, and FCP are not able to guarantee that the Bosch VR they’ll sell you will be the SKU ending in 89. For the sake of my peace of mind I spent the premium $$ and got a “Genuine BMW” VR. But to nobody’s surprise it’s just a Bosch 89. Anyway, I finally have the right VR and no codes! Thank you to everyone!

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by KAR

Bumping this

Much appreciation to everyone posting here. I’ve been refurbishing my 2009 135i, with ~81K miles on the clock. I replaced just about everything that was worn including the VR. It was operating perfectly with no codes; in fact the brushes were only about 1/2 worn, but after 12 years I figured it was worth replacing preventatively. The one I got from Turner had the SKU ending in 88. After months of work I finally fired up the engine again. My efforts were rewarded with no fault codes... except 2E97. After triple checking the connections I eventually reinstalled the original VR, and the code disappeared. It took me some time to find this thread, and after reading, I started making phone calls.

At the time of this writing ECS, Turner, and FCP are not able to guarantee that the Bosch VR they’ll sell you will be the SKU ending in 89. For the sake of my peace of mind I spent the premium $$ and got a “Genuine BMW” VR. But to nobody’s surprise it’s just a Bosch 89. Anyway, I finally have the right VR and no codes! Thank you to everyone!

Its crazy to me that all these companies are so confused with the part number. I reached out to FCP Euro and they said they would look into the part number issue but doesn't look like they fixed it yet, will have to send a follow up email just to make sure they have the correct information.

I'm glad our little argument was helpful at least

Ultimately it seems like people have been able to run either part number just fine without any real side effects other than that random code. Wondering if I can somehow figure out what is truly different between the 2 parts.. likely just a firmware change or something intangible like that.

[fazman]

So I am having this exact same issue from my original VR to the FCPEuro *88 VR i got to replace my original *33 VR part. My original brushes on the VR were also 1/2 way worn down with 190k miles on the clock. I'm now at 195k miles and just figure out I am probably suffering from this exact issue. I'll try to reach out to FCPEuro about this as well.

I kinda wish BMW would allow us to be able to get software updates to the car. Mine was last updated in June 6th, 2012 (almost a decade ago).