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335is yellow battery light multiple codes !
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02-23-2019, 11:42 AM | #1 |
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335is yellow battery light multiple codes !
2011 335is 6mt. No mods besides DCI & BMS cowl filters. Was at a stop light and saw a yellow battery light pop up then got a CEL and it started idling unevenly bouncing from 1-2k RPM. Pulled over at a gas station had my brother bring a scanner and found all these codes. Car was running perfectly fine until this happened. Now it cranks but doesn't start. Checked the rear battery negative cable and it was a little loose pushed it down hard and it started but still uneven idle. Now it cranks but does not start anymore.
Here is a picture of codes. Thoughts? |
02-23-2019, 12:07 PM | #2 |
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Update: car cranks and starts but rough idle bouncing from 1-2k RPM. Also the scanner showed 9.0V. But I think that's because I was constantly trying to start it? And the car DOES crank over and start? So...?
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02-23-2019, 02:30 PM | #4 |
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02-23-2019, 02:31 PM | #5 |
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Basically you can ignore all the codes as it appears your battery is way below voltage (and probably why you got the yellow battery light). When the voltage is low, the car will do completely crazy things, so address the power issue and then clear the codes and they probably won't come back. Either your battery has packed up (how old is it) or you have not had the battery cable recall and that is causing the issue as the battery cable issue acts like a bad battery or sometimes disconnects completely.
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02-23-2019, 02:38 PM | #6 |
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actually that 2acb code might be the issue, that is sometimes the junction box relay or big fuse (30amp one). Check and make sure the fuses in the junction box are ok and then the relays. The fuse and relay both could cause the crank no start condition -they are in the ecu box.
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02-23-2019, 03:34 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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02-23-2019, 04:01 PM | #8 |
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Should be this one https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_3934
Diagram shows which terminals are what inside the relay.
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02-23-2019, 05:03 PM | #9 | |
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Wonder if I should just replace that relay |
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02-24-2019, 08:39 AM | #10 |
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Going to open the DME box today and check for that relay. Might just order it since it's $20.
So ended up finding out that I was looking at the Autel scanner version instead of the voltage so that takes that out of the picture lol. The voltage when the car is turned on but not running is 12.23 or so. I didn't check when i actually turned the car on with engine running. Since the bouncing rpm is indicative of a throttle body issue we took apart the throttle body cleaned it and put a mirror down there and noticed that when I pressed the gas the flapper wasn't opening? Since I had the camshaft sensor code I decided to buy the camshaft sensor and see if that does anything. For some reason I don't believe its the battery/starter since the car 's interior lights are fine not weak or flickering and the car cranks but doesn't start multiple times with no sound of the starter sounding bad. I truly think its an electrical issue of some sort because all these sensors wouldn't go bad out of nowhere. Attached is s picture of the green corrosion on the ground strap but it's not frayed or anything so ? |
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02-24-2019, 12:19 PM | #11 |
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1) Clear your original codes to see which, if any, are coming back.
2) Try this for the oscillating idle With the engine off and key out, push accelerator to floor Turn on ignition (don't start engine, just dash lights on) Hold the pedal down 30 seconds Turn off ignition, release pedal This will re-calibrate the throttle. Hypothesis is your electrical interruption caused a throttle adaptation reset. |
02-25-2019, 03:09 PM | #12 | |
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I just also realized something.... the car needed a new battery and I replaced the battery with a used one but never got it coded..? Have not been able to work on the car as it rained and stuff but will tomorrow so I'll check the alternator/battery tomorrow. Could this possibly be the issue perhaps? |
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02-26-2019, 09:49 AM | #14 | |
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Although your voltage is only slightly low, I would still swap out that ground strap just to remove it as a variable. No need to replace it with an OEM cable...just get a generic one from the parts store; should cost less than ~$5. |
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02-26-2019, 10:00 AM | #15 |
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For the OP, just to be as clear as possible:
Clearing error codes not the same as resetting adaptations. I realize my post may have been ambiguous on this point. Use the throttle range setting procedure outlined above first. See if the surging idle disappears. Then clear your error codes using MHD then run the car and see which if any of the original set of codes comes back. There is no need to reset adaptations in your situation. But if you do reset the throttle adaptation, as FCobra94 points out, you'll need to set the throttle range again using the technique described above. Last edited by dpaul; 02-27-2019 at 09:50 PM.. |
03-02-2019, 09:46 AM | #17 |
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Found out it was fuse 37 that was blown. Replaced fuse and car started working again. Now windows/interior lighting/headlight rings and rear reverse light won't work and getting FRM faults so they think FRM died when they replaced fuse. Going to call BMW and see if they'll replace it.
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03-07-2019, 08:50 PM | #19 |
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Okay guys so here's what happened. Brought car to a shop they figured out it was fuse 37 blown. Replaced fuse car started back up. BUT none of my interior lights, turn signals, OR headlight rings were working OR windows. Shop said they have no communication with FRM so they said FRM died and just to get it replaced at BMW.
Drove it an hour away back home then drove around for another day and then tire blew. Car has been parked for a couple days got a tire and replaced it. Went to BMW today to get FRM replaced and when they went on a test drive AFTER replacing my FRM to check that everything was good car went into limp mode with 4-16 codes that I showed in my first post. They were flabbergasted and i told them if they can check the fuse 37 they replaced it and all is well now. Service advisor told me I should look into this because that fuse shouldn't be blowing like that and when I took car home about 30 mins away I was on a street when the fuse blew again for the 3rd TIME and left my car immobile. LUCKILY he gave me a fuse JUST in case and I made it back home as soon as I replaced it. Thoughts? |
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