[rjahl]

Originally Posted by jynxgk

Old post, but since I was looking for info on my new-to-me E90, it's very, very much appreciated.

Mine's a bit rough shifting in and out of neutral. When I take the car in for annual service in the Spring, I might ask their opinion on transmission fluid. Good to hear it worked for you

Don't bother asking a dealer about a trans fluid change. They don't like to do them and will give you the lifetime fluid BS. If you have more than 60K in the fluid, change it.

If you want professional opinions, talk to a ZF specialists. Try "The California transmission supply company".

You can also check out the Hyundai and Jaguar forums and see all the problems they had with fluids in this transmission.

Don't bother flushing unless you have had some other issue. These boxes run pretty clean, the fluid just wears out.

[banglenot]

Originally Posted by jynxgk

Old post, but since I was looking for info on my new-to-me E90, it's very, very much appreciated.

Mine's a bit rough shifting in and out of neutral. When I take the car in for annual service in the Spring, I might ask their opinion on transmission fluid. Good to hear it worked for you

1. Assuming you have a ZF tranny. Check it; you might have a GM. Similar procedure; different details.
2. yes, change it. Note you can't dump all of it, only about 60-70%, so it's more accurate to call it a refresh. Never, ever reuse the fluid.
3. In this case, replace the pan. You don't know when/if it was ever changed. And, you'll be able to change an extra liter of fluid when you drop it.
4. Never "flush it" with anything else. Don't need to flush. Just refresh the fluid. Use only correct tranny fluid. Use ZF LG6 if you can afford it; use Shell spec 1374.5 if you need a cheaper alternative. Don't use anything that isn't at least Shell 1374.5 spec.
5. At 110Kmi, consider dropping the mechatronics and replacing the rubber gaskets (5 of them) between the mecha and the turbine section. As these age, they can shrink and crack, reducing fluid pressure within the tranny.
6. Fluid condition. Normal old fluid should be varying shades of brown and translucent. Darker brown the older it is. Black and stinks means that the transmission was used very heavily (overheated for long periods, with increased wear on fluid) and/or abused (clutch wear particles in fluid). If black and stinks, consider a double refresh with 1-5K miles in between. You can use the same (new) pan on the second refresh. Fluid in very poor condition is an indicator that other problems may happen sooner.
7. After a change, particularly if any parts have been changed (rubbers, solenoids, etc) reset the adaptations with INPA, ISTA or other if available and follow the relearning process.

Big note: ZF recommends changing their fluid between 40 (hard use) and 70Kmiles (normal use). BMW's "lifetime" is nonsense.

[DiFFv1]

Cant say i agree with if the 60k rule. i know guys including myself with a trans oil change on 90k+. More like a 70% refill being that all oil isn't drained. If you do this...Do it right and take your time refilling and going through gears properly. Also Replacing the medtronic sleeve is tricky, Push one pin in and the car is a potato

Nonetheless i have done it and it was successful

Here's info on the parts and kit you'll need...


http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...=187&parent=43

Just the sleeve..

http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=p...id=3&parent=10

[R.Thillman]

Originally Posted by mecbain

Reasons why I want to change the oil:
1. When hot outside (not crazy hot), I find it shifts a little bit harder and high rpms shifts when @WOT takes longer when comparing to colder days.
2. Since 6-8 months I find it shifts rougher in general, nothing major and this could maybe be fixed by a transmission reset that I can do with the OFT
3. Winters get pretty cold here, I thought it would be good for the transmission to have some recent oil in there (that being said I always let the car heat up before leaving with it and go very easy on it until it reaches optimal temperature).
4. I think I'll keep the car for more than anticipated and I also seem to put on it much more millage than expected... so to avoid future problems

Not really experiencing any slipping...

Now none of the above reasons are not enough to take a "BIG" risk and create additional more important problems, however if the risk is minimal.... might be worth it...

And yes inside me I hope this will make it shift faster when hot days so I stop losing so much ground when the AT shifts and racing... (but I know that might have nothing to do with the oil, I'm just "hoping".

BTW this is the kit I want to buy:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-330...Kit/ES2771511/

don't change it 100% I have spoked to shop foremans that have been working on these cars for years and they told they won't change the trans fluid on these gm ones because once you take away the grit and detergent that has aged in the OEM fluid and add new fluid it isnt the same and will continue to slip. best of luck

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by R.Thillman

don't change it 100% I have spoked to shop foremans that have been working on these cars for years and they told they won't change the trans fluid on these gm ones because once you take away the grit and detergent that has aged in the OEM fluid and add new fluid it isnt the same and will continue to slip. best of luck

Hogwash,

The friction modifiers are part of the fluid and the clutch residue does little for the transmission functions.

Not changing the fluid will affect the life of the transmission.....

The fact if the matter is few shops want to change trans fluid these days. It's a high risk project, they never know the condition of the trans when the customer pulls in yet any problem the customer notices afterwords is the shops fault.


Not just BMW, I had a really hard time getting Lexus to perform a fluid change on my GS350.