[backtofront001]

I searched and found what I wanted but just to confirm -- when I turn my car on/off the amp will turn on/off with it if I followed the directions to wire the PAC trunk-loc properly RIGHT?

[saini023]

Originally Posted by backtofront001

I searched and found what I wanted but just to confirm -- when I turn my car on/off the amp will turn on/off with it if I followed the directions to wire the PAC trunk-loc properly RIGHT?

amp will turn on once the PAC device gets a audio signal. it will turn off once your car/radio turns off. i belive it will stay on for a min or so until the car goes into its sleep mode. but if you hook up the PAC properly it will turn on and off.

should be 4 wires.
Ground
Constant
Remote in (connects to any speaker wire in car)
Remote wire out

[backtofront001]

Originally Posted by saini023

amp will turn on once the PAC device gets a audio signal. it will turn off once your car/radio turns off. i belive it will stay on for a min or so until the car goes into its sleep mode. but if you hook up the PAC properly it will turn on and off.

should be 4 wires.
Ground
Constant
Remote in (connects to any speaker wire in car)
Remote wire out

Thank You Sir

[Joe Bimmer]

Originally Posted by saini023

amp will turn on once the PAC device gets a audio signal. it will turn off once your car/radio turns off. i belive it will stay on for a min or so until the car goes into its sleep mode. but if you hook up the PAC properly it will turn on and off.

should be 4 wires.
Ground
Constant
Remote in (connects to any speaker wire in car)
Remote wire out

This is just for the Remote part of the LOC. There are other wires used for converting the speaker level to amp-input level:

Wiring Diagram

[saini023]

Originally Posted by Joe Bimmer

This is just for the Remote part of the LOC. There are other wires used for converting the speaker level to amp-input level:

Wiring Diagram

never said it would give him the audio for the RCA inputs. i said the remote will turn on when the PAC trigger gets an audio signal from his facotry speakers.

[backtofront001]

Originally Posted by Joe Bimmer

This is just for the Remote part of the LOC. There are other wires used for converting the speaker level to amp-input level:

Wiring Diagram

Hey thanks, I took a look at that before I ordered it.

[backtofront001]

I don't really understand the logistics behind how this thing works but I am going to do what their website tells me to do and hopefully my sub bumps.

Anyways, what I understand is that, I need to tap the positives and negatives of left and right channel, tap amp remote wire, and a wire to +12Volt on amp and sub should work and amp should turn on and off with car -- someone confirm this.

Also, right now I have ordered sub, amp, amp kit, trunk Loc -- as far as I know, I dont need anything else but am I missing anything??

And if someone is feeling extra generous then I understand that this thing converts low level input from OEM radio and turns it into amp level but could someone explain me how tapping the left and right speaker wires would make the sub work? And after doing all this, does this cut out the OEM subs underneath the front seats?

Thank You Very Much

[saini023]

sorry..i just looked at the wire digram and saw wat trunk Loc you got. i thought all you got was the low voltage trigger, but you got one with hi.lo built in. yup. that is all you need. it will not cut out the factory subs.
tapping into the left and right speaker sends the signal (song/music) from your CD player/radio/mp3 player to your subs so your subwoofers know when to hit. if this is not connect your subs will not get any sounds to them.

[NJEddie]

Here is the manual for wiring the PAC Trunk LOC. PAC-audio.com has it within their archived files and here it is...

(All this info. was taken from pac-audio's website archive file)
2 Channel Line Output Converter w/ Low Voltage Trigger Remote Output

Gray wire - positive right rear speaker

Gray/Black wire - negative right rear speaker

White wire - positive left rear speaker

White/Black wire - negative left rear speaker

Black wire, ground supply - ground wire

Red wire, +12v supply - wired to amplifier’s constant +12 volt input.

Green wire, (+) trigger input - wired to a lead speaker. Manuf. mentions "when radio is turned on, there will be approximately 6 volts DC on any speaker wire. The Green wire will trigger at minimum 0.8 volts."

Blue wire, (+) 12 volt remote out - wired to amp remote turn-on input. Manuf. mentions "this wire will provide +12volts when the Green wire is triggered. The output delays one second before turning on to eliminate any turn-on pops."

RCA cables are connected to amp RCA inputs.

Finally, adjust Trunk-LOC gear to match your speaker volume. (I guess there is a way of doing so on the equipment...?)

I recommend to everyone to avoid using "T-Taps". They eventually lose their connectivity over time. Professionals recommended you pull back the wire (use an automatic wire separator) and solder in the wire.

Don't cut factory wires, it's not worth the pain and agony!

Hope this helps.

I'm gonna attempt to finally connect some JL Audio Subs and amp to my car. Hopefully, I will be successful!

[mister wiggles]

Where can i find PAC trunk-loc?

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by mister wiggles

Where can i find PAC trunk-loc?

I think its discontinued...Any quality LOC will work. Just make sure it has a remote trigger so the install is easier.

[mister wiggles]

Does anyone sell the adapter like the one technic was offering? It has the remote wire and female RCA connectors.

[NJEddie]

You can find it on Amazon for 20-27 bucks. PAC Trunk LOC sells newer versions, but they all work the same. (Just remember to get one with the remote on/off.)

[mister wiggles]

How easy are the PAC Trunk LOC's to install? After i get the LOC, the next step would be the amp wiring kit?

[fdriller9]

There are numerous DIY on the forum explaining this. It is just tapping 4 wires. 7 if your LOC requires a power and ground for the remote trigger to work like mine did. But those power and ground cables were connected directly to my amp.

[mister wiggles]

Maybe i'm not searching for the right key words, but could you help direct me in the right direction to these threads? TIA