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      04-19-2020, 05:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky0u View Post
Nice progress! Curious though, arent VRSF inlets known to sometimes collapse under vacuum overtime which could potentially lead to turbo failure? Or did they fix that defect?

for reference:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1707440
yeh i saw that post and been following it. was gonna msg VRSF to ask them if those camps are directional is there some instruction paper work to follow up on ? because there was nothing in the box.

i had already brought the inlet before that post came out

looking at a relocate kit anyways and planning to upgrade turbos next year so we will see. the 1.75" inlets right now come to close for comfort to the pully's because i upgarde the rad to a CSF rad which is 1/4" thicker.

currently no issue with the inlets ca-lapsing but ive only driven it for less then 24hr soo....

Last edited by sky82; 04-19-2020 at 09:23 PM..
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      04-20-2020, 07:35 PM   #24
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So to back track a few days to get everyone up to speed.
Engine bay was done. All gasket replaced (except oil pump which will be done once we figure out how we wanna get the 2 oil cooler in)

Took the car out and felt there was a boost leak... figure it was coming from the charge pipe / throttle body area. We forgot to put the oring on. Silly. Got a new oring and boost leak gone!

Spent the next two days ripping out the interior and putting the new black interior in.

When doing so. Figure out I had sport seats and the new black seats were not sport. So kept my grey front seats for now lol.
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      04-20-2020, 07:42 PM   #25
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So now it's April 26th and I'm finally taking her home! We put on the rear bumper and diffuser and decide that's enough work and I need to drive her.

He has few cars ahead of me for tune and I was ok with it. Right off the bat the car throttle responds is so much better. Pulls with easy and hums nicely. A little bit of heat shield rattle when Reving but nothing crazy. Not sure if I wanna remove it

Gave here a quick rinse and took some quick pics!
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      04-20-2020, 08:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky0u View Post
Nice progress! Curious though, arent VRSF inlets known to sometimes collapse under vacuum overtime which could potentially lead to turbo failure? Or did they fix that defect?

for reference:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1707440
I've had my VRSF 1.75" OEM side inlets on for 3 years and 60K+ miles with no issues. They might have had a batch or so that were bad or maybe a few install errors, but I have not really heard of but one or two people having collapse issues.

Car looks good man, congrats. Black wrap looks much cleaner than the carbon.
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      04-21-2020, 02:03 PM   #27
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Upgrade the clutch valve to the BMS builder clutch value... got the clutch stop upgrade too and I should have installed it when the clutch pedal was all the way down when we were bleeding the fluid but didn't get to it

Clutch feels much easier to engage now
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      04-21-2020, 04:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllSic_Design View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ky0u View Post
Nice progress! Curious though, arent VRSF inlets known to sometimes collapse under vacuum overtime which could potentially lead to turbo failure? Or did they fix that defect?

for reference:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1707440
I've had my VRSF 1.75" OEM side inlets on for 3 years and 60K+ miles with no issues. They might have had a batch or so that were bad or maybe a few install errors, but I have not really heard of but one or two people having collapse issues.

Car looks good man, congrats. Black wrap looks much cleaner than the carbon.
Yeh I'm not to concern.

I have some plans for the car so the inlets might not even be on for long lol. We will see
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      04-21-2020, 06:24 PM   #29
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Just went downstairs into the condo parking lot to install the H8 led white bulbs for the halos

For an aliexpress bulb I think this will do, over the costly LUX bulb
$16 USD vs $100+USD
And zero error codes

Also took me awhile but brown is the negative and yellow is positive. As the led didn't have a notch on the connector to make it easy to tell which side was which
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      04-22-2020, 05:57 PM   #30
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Steering wheel is in! Honestly was very simple to do. But did need a impact gun to get the big bolt out

Love it!
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      04-24-2020, 07:53 PM   #31
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So the past few days been dealing with some random rough starts... began to think it was hpfp and some of the codes show that. One thing was happening consistent. After filling a full tank of gas the car would always take long to start up.

We finally pulled the purge valve and found it was seized open. Allowing all the pressure from the gas tank just leak into the intake flooding the pistons.

Changed out the plunge value and we were code free again!

Then my mechanic / friend had a surprise for me. He pulled out a COBB. I was waiting for him when his dyno free up for a custom tune. Be he said he got it off a previous e90 and it was untouch and not married to any car. We threw it in and did a stage 2 basic tune. Up to 17.5psi right now and the car is a whole new animal with no issues.

Also had some time and put on the PSM spoiler finally also.

Now going to really enjoy this weekend!

P.S. please ignore front and rear emblems. I have oem ones coming but amazon is slow because of covid
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      04-25-2020, 09:03 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
So the past few days been dealing with some random rough starts... began to think it was hpfp and some of the codes show that. One thing was happening consistent. After filling a full tank of gas the car would always take long to start up.

We finally pulled the purge valve and found it was seized open. Allowing all the pressure from the gas tank just leak into the intake flooding the pistons.

Changed out the plunge value and we were code free again!

Then my mechanic / friend had a surprise for me. He pulled out a COBB. I was waiting for him when his dyno free up for a custom tune. Be he said he got it off a previous e90 and it was untouch and not married to any car. We threw it in and did a stage 2 basic tune. Up to 17.5psi right now and the car is a whole new animal with no issues.

Also had some time and put on the PSM spoiler finally also.

Now going to really enjoy this weekend!

P.S. please ignore front and rear emblems. I have oem ones coming but amazon is slow because of covid
If your pistons have been flooding with fuel I would do an oil change immediately. That’s a recipe for rod bearing failure and a blown motor. Fuel leaking past the rings acts as a solvent on your oil and then it doesn’t lubricate properly.
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      04-25-2020, 10:30 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
So the past few days been dealing with some random rough starts... began to think it was hpfp and some of the codes show that. One thing was happening consistent. After filling a full tank of gas the car would always take long to start up.

We finally pulled the purge valve and found it was seized open. Allowing all the pressure from the gas tank just leak into the intake flooding the pistons.

Changed out the plunge value and we were code free again!

Then my mechanic / friend had a surprise for me. He pulled out a COBB. I was waiting for him when his dyno free up for a custom tune. Be he said he got it off a previous e90 and it was untouch and not married to any car. We threw it in and did a stage 2 basic tune. Up to 17.5psi right now and the car is a whole new animal with no issues.

Also had some time and put on the PSM spoiler finally also.

Now going to really enjoy this weekend!

P.S. please ignore front and rear emblems. I have oem ones coming but amazon is slow because of covid
If your pistons have been flooding with fuel I would do an oil change immediately. That’s a recipe for rod bearing failure and a blown motor. Fuel leaking past the rings acts as a solvent on your oil and then it doesn’t lubricate properly.
Really? Not flooded with fuel but was flooded with the fumes? Hmm maybe I should double check
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      05-03-2020, 08:29 AM   #34
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Lucky block hasn't been flooded but been getting really bad cold starts , Rpms everywhere and finally determine it's a hpfp. Since it was hard to get to I decide just for now to put a used one on to see if it fixed my cold start issues and also long cranks and it all went away with the help of a local guy and sold it to me for 100$ ... I know eventually I will need to put a new one in but didn't want to wait for the part with slow shipping.

Also replaced the fog lights as they were burnt out and with with LED yellow

installed some new pedal cover and testing out these floor mats to see if they are durable . The fit is pretty good as they cover like all the corners and curves. Material is not bad. But the part that connects with the carpet is a bit poor. $55 Canada tho for all 4 to fit wasn't bad.

Also got rid of the old emblems from the previous owner and went back to stock bmw caps on front, back and all 4 hub caps
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      05-09-2020, 07:45 PM   #35
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New display

So pulled the trigger on a new android screen
And LOVE it

Recommend this over CIC upgrade as I see the prices are anywhere in USD 600-800$

This screen and android all in one cost me $470 canadian + approx $50 shipping and customs. Order it on Tuesday on aliexpress and got here in 4 business day with dhl trackin. That's crazy direct from China . Assuming with our bad exchange that's $320-330 USD

I can still use my CCC with out any issues. Hold the menu for 3 sec and I can get into the android interface which can mimic ID6, ID7, EVO and more. Got apply car play on it and can load any android app.

Main reason I got it was for MHD and protools so I can code, scan and see gauges with it looking OEM

Audio is actually very good (still a little behind the stock logic 7 but not by much) as it pushes audio out via AUX

High recommenced!
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      05-09-2020, 07:48 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Nice Covid project!
covid projects are 'somewhat' nice if you have a job with reduced hours

Give me an other covid off time with $$$ and that e91 will get a N54 drivetrain (I hope it will never re-happen, the covid part)

Op for the HU part, yeah android stuff can be very nice. If you can get a reputable device with 4gb+ ram, those are way more complete than the OEM CCC or CIC. Maps are always uptodate, and waze is a must imo.
You can also run a complete engine monitoring with a OBDII dongle.

For the sub part, a box in the back fender . I got mine fiberglass , 10'' type R alpine and a auto-on ( no remote wire) mtx 300.2 amp. I reduced the low frequencies in the OEM speakers to avoid distortion and increase the gain for the sub. Sound is 100x better
You were so right.
Amazing upgrade and went with your call on the 4gb and I got a 6 core processor

It's enough

Didn't need to go with the new 8 cores and save 200$
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      05-19-2020, 08:21 PM   #37
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Update

Side mirror caps finally came in. Pretty happy with it. Nope not real carbon but I guess that's what I get for aliexpress ordering.

Also smoked side market LED are on also.

The biggest add finally. Apex arc-8 are finally on!!!
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      05-22-2020, 10:31 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
So pulled the trigger on a new android screen
And LOVE it

Recommend this over CIC upgrade as I see the prices are anywhere in USD 600-800$

This screen and android all in one cost me $470 canadian + approx $50 shipping and customs. Order it on Tuesday on aliexpress and got here in 4 business day with dhl trackin. That's crazy direct from China . Assuming with our bad exchange that's $320-330 USD

I can still use my CCC with out any issues. Hold the menu for 3 sec and I can get into the android interface which can mimic ID6, ID7, EVO and more. Got apply car play on it and can load any android app.

Main reason I got it was for MHD and protools so I can code, scan and see gauges with it looking OEM

Audio is actually very good (still a little behind the stock logic 7 but not by much) as it pushes audio out via AUX

High recommenced!
Hey man! Can you give me the link for the Android head unit? I also live in Canada and was planning to do something like this. Thanks!
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      05-22-2020, 01:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DamnTheseGuys View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
So pulled the trigger on a new android screen
And LOVE it

Recommend this over CIC upgrade as I see the prices are anywhere in USD 600-800$

This screen and android all in one cost me $470 canadian + approx $50 shipping and customs. Order it on Tuesday on aliexpress and got here in 4 business day with dhl trackin. That's crazy direct from China . Assuming with our bad exchange that's $320-330 USD

I can still use my CCC with out any issues. Hold the menu for 3 sec and I can get into the android interface which can mimic ID6, ID7, EVO and more. Got apply car play on it and can load any android app.

Main reason I got it was for MHD and protools so I can code, scan and see gauges with it looking OEM

Audio is actually very good (still a little behind the stock logic 7 but not by much) as it pushes audio out via AUX

High recommenced!
Hey man! Can you give me the link for the Android head unit? I also live in Canada and was planning to do something like this. Thanks!
Here you go.

I'm working on a wireless charging and wireless apple car play. Hope to have it running soon

https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXwoMuN
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      05-23-2020, 12:38 PM   #40
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Looks sweet! Good luck with everything.
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      05-23-2020, 05:44 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
thanks everyone. CSF race rad is in today. didnt want to take it out of the box as still pending a few things coming in from n54tuning.com. mikes been a big help .. hope it have everything in soon and the 1st stage of the build begins
Did you know the CSF radiator is thicker than OEM??Thus, it's closer to the engine (belts & pulleys)? You said you got 1.75" VRSF inlets. With an OEM radiator, the inlets get close to the belt & pulleys as it is...

FYI.....

If you are able to make it work with zip ties, please post pictures...
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      05-23-2020, 05:51 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
thanks everyone. CSF race rad is in today. didnt want to take it out of the box as still pending a few things coming in from n54tuning.com. mikes been a big help .. hope it have everything in soon and the 1st stage of the build begins
Did you know the CSF radiator is thicker than OEM??Thus, it's closer to the engine (belts & pulleys)? You said you got 1.75" VRSF inlets. With an OEM radiator, the inlets get close to the belt & pulleys as it is...

FYI.....

If you are able to make it work with zip ties, please post pictures...
Yep was very close.

Here are the two pics with the air intake off

It clears and I haven't rubbed in 2500km

Tho I will be getting relocate when I upgrade

No way will the 2" fit
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      05-23-2020, 06:25 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sky82 View Post
thanks everyone. CSF race rad is in today. didnt want to take it out of the box as still pending a few things coming in from n54tuning.com. mikes been a big help .. hope it have everything in soon and the 1st stage of the build begins
Did you know the CSF radiator is thicker than OEM??Thus, it's closer to the engine (belts & pulleys)? You said you got 1.75" VRSF inlets. With an OEM radiator, the inlets get close to the belt & pulleys as it is...

FYI.....

If you are able to make it work with zip ties, please post pictures...
Yep was very close.

Here are the two pics with the air intake off

It clears and I haven't rubbed in 2500km

Tho I will be getting relocate when I upgrade

No way will the 2" fit
Wow! That's too close my comfort!
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      05-24-2020, 09:50 PM   #44
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Quote:
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Wow! That's too close my comfort!
yep it is close.. but isnt rubbing..
relocate is the better choice.. will be on the to-do for new turbos.
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