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Long cranks on cold start. Low rail pressure. Ideas?
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05-02-2019, 06:17 AM | #23 | |
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What are you going to tackle next because i see your still having fuel issues. So you did the sensor and regulator. Anything on the LPFP? i know after that its HPFP or Injectors . Id check the fuel lines for leak or a unsecure connection.
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05-02-2019, 01:12 PM | #24 |
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Lpfp would be the next logical step for me it seems given that codes are gone, long crank is gone and residual pressure is holding steady when car is off. The pressure bounces between 680ish to 724 at idle I think the lpfp is getting tired. The chain guide repair is gonna cost a nice chunk of change so it’ll be a bit. For OP at 18psi gotta be the regulator imo.
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05-03-2019, 07:17 AM | #25 | |
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05-07-2019, 07:44 PM | #26 | |
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05-09-2019, 03:25 PM | #27 |
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Not yet. Tackling the project this coming week.
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05-14-2019, 09:38 AM | #28 |
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Update? Still here to help
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05-14-2019, 03:10 PM | #29 |
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Placed another FCP order for some coilpacks and I got it today. Going to tackle everything after work tomorrow. How much fuel did you have in the tank when you did the regulator? I currently have 1/4th, but curious if I should burn some more before popping the tank open.
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05-14-2019, 03:58 PM | #30 | |
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05-14-2019, 04:01 PM | #31 |
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1/4 should be good. I just did it over the weekend with 1/3 left. Just make sure you are prepared for fuel to spray out of the drivers side line when you disconnect it from the top hat. Took me about an hour start to finish.
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05-15-2019, 07:22 AM | #32 |
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+1 , 1/4 is fine
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05-15-2019, 07:25 AM | #33 |
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yes be aware of the line spraying, I purged my lines and still had a bit of spray coming towards me. Undo connections at the LPFP first then start on regulator. Be patient with feeding the lines. FCP already has a curve in them for you to help a bit but you will at least have to feel/re-feed one line. Good luck bro
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05-15-2019, 03:26 PM | #34 | |||
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EDIT: Are there any special tools are anything that I should be aware of before starting? Just want to make sure I don't have to run to the store in the middle of working on it.
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05-15-2019, 11:03 PM | #35 |
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Only special tool is needed to take off the rings to remove the pump/FPR. Can't get that at a store last minute.
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05-15-2019, 11:55 PM | #36 |
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I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63000-Fuel-Tank-Lock/dp/B0079GPYA4 luckily amazon had next day pickup so that was sweet. Otherwise Ive read you can hammer it for a couple lifetimes per ring depending on how stuck it is lol
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05-16-2019, 07:42 AM | #37 |
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Long cranking issues ...
I have a 2012 335 with the N55 and every since I brought it last year it had what I first thought was long cranks upon start up which progressively got worse. I changed spark plugs, coils, gas cap, and just last week the hpfp which was the fix for me. Immediately after changing the hpfp the car starts as soon. As you which the key in. Just yesterday I changed the fuel filter/regulator since my car has just hit 103K. I have noticed an immediate different since yesterday with the filter kit being installed. Smoother idle and acceleration. I have MHD stage 1 with and intake and no more codes on on DME shown now. Hopefully the fuel filter/regulator kit solves your problem. I know for me I wanted to do the basics before anything else ... good luck !!!
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05-16-2019, 12:11 PM | #39 |
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UPDATE: NO MORE LONG CRANKS!
Replaced the regulator last night and the car is firing up immediately. Even after sitting over night, not even the slightest hesitation or miss on start up. Previously, after the car would sit for a few hours, my rail pressure would drop to 18psi. Now, it is a consistent 75 psi prior to starting. The metal rings to access the fuel tank were a real PITA. I had to soak each in WD40 and spent about 20-30 minutes per side with a socket and mallet getting them loose. Other than that, the job wasn't really that bad. Though, my hands are really agitated from being soaked in fuel all night. Logs before and after regulator replacement: Before:https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...1&data=4-14-15 After: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...0&data=4-14-15 Note the rail pressure before cranking on both. Also, you can see the massive stuttering and how the car almost dies due to fuel starvation on the before log. I do see that there is a bit of oscillation on the after log, but I have yet to drive the car to let it adapt. I plan to do that this evening.
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05-16-2019, 09:58 PM | #41 | |
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05-17-2019, 12:48 PM | #42 | |
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Told ya! good shet brotha.
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05-21-2019, 12:53 PM | #43 | |
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Eh, even though it is running better than it ever has, I am still thinking of listing it in a month. Thanks man! I love when stuff works out as it should. That doesn't happen too often in the automotive DIY world. haha Also, quick question. Over the past few days of driving since doing the job, I have gotten a close gas cap warning twice. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume it is because the metal rings on the tank aren't as tight as they should be. Is this a correct assumption? Or do you think it could be something else? Other than that, car is running solid.
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05-22-2019, 05:44 AM | #44 | |
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