[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Thought I'd give you a little update from my experience. I did the regulator (day before I did my VC). Good news, pressure stayed at 74.3 an hour after shutting the car off so it held pressure. Before I observed it drop from 74.5 down the 18 psi over an hour. I think I mentioned that in another fueling post. Bad news, I broke a piece of my guide rail doing the VC so while I did observe rail pressure dipping below 700 I haven't been able to do any complete logs bc I'm afraid about my timing chain doing some ghostrider shit lol!

Thats good to hear brother, And damnn nooo to the timing chain haha.

What are you going to tackle next because i see your still having fuel issues. So you did the sensor and regulator. Anything on the LPFP? i know after that its HPFP or Injectors . Id check the fuel lines for leak or a unsecure connection.

[HeyTeeee]

Lpfp would be the next logical step for me it seems given that codes are gone, long crank is gone and residual pressure is holding steady when car is off. The pressure bounces between 680ish to 724 at idle I think the lpfp is getting tired. The chain guide repair is gonna cost a nice chunk of change so it’ll be a bit. For OP at 18psi gotta be the regulator imo.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Lpfp would be the next logical step for me it seems given that codes are gone, long crank is gone and residual pressure is holding steady when car is off. The pressure bounces between 680ish to 724 at idle I think the lpfp is getting tired. The chain guide repair is gonna cost a nice chunk of change so it’ll be a bit. For OP at 18psi gotta be the regulator imo.

Mid 600s-800 is the normal at idle, Keep us updated please sir

[FEDE/E92]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

This is kinda where i'm leaning now. At this point I am trying to figure out if my LPFP is just a bit tired and isn't pumping as much fuel as it used to during the priming phase, or, theres some sort of leak in the system allowing pressure to escape as the car sits. The latter could be plausible as I am cat-less and get a little bit of fuel smell when driving anyways, but I have yet to see an obvious leak.

Any resolve to this issue?

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by FEDE/E92

Any resolve to this issue?

Not yet. Tackling the project this coming week.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Not yet. Tackling the project this coming week.

Update? Still here to help

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

Update? Still here to help

Placed another FCP order for some coilpacks and I got it today. Going to tackle everything after work tomorrow. How much fuel did you have in the tank when you did the regulator? I currently have 1/4th, but curious if I should burn some more before popping the tank open.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Placed another FCP order for some coilpacks and I got it today. Going to tackle everything after work tomorrow. How much fuel did you have in the tank when you did the regulator? I currently have 1/4th, but curious if I should burn some more before popping the tank open.

I did mine with about 1/4 wasn’t bad. Fishing those lines through is annoying took me a couple redo’s. Grab some shop towels and have at it.

[weehe126]

1/4 should be good. I just did it over the weekend with 1/3 left. Just make sure you are prepared for fuel to spray out of the drivers side line when you disconnect it from the top hat. Took me about an hour start to finish.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I did mine with about 1/4 wasn’t bad. Fishing those lines through is annoying took me a couple redo’s. Grab some shop towels and have at it.

+1 , 1/4 is fine

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by weehe126

1/4 should be good. I just did it over the weekend with 1/3 left. Just make sure you are prepared for fuel to spray out of the drivers side line when you disconnect it from the top hat. Took me about an hour start to finish.

yes be aware of the line spraying, I purged my lines and still had a bit of spray coming towards me. Undo connections at the LPFP first then start on regulator. Be patient with feeding the lines. FCP already has a curve in them for you to help a bit but you will at least have to feel/re-feed one line. Good luck bro

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

I did mine with about 1/4 wasn’t bad. Fishing those lines through is annoying took me a couple redo’s. Grab some shop towels and have at it.

Originally Posted by weehe126

1/4 should be good. I just did it over the weekend with 1/3 left. Just make sure you are prepared for fuel to spray out of the drivers side line when you disconnect it from the top hat. Took me about an hour start to finish.

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

yes be aware of the line spraying, I purged my lines and still had a bit of spray coming towards me. Undo connections at the LPFP first then start on regulator. Be patient with feeding the lines. FCP already has a curve in them for you to help a bit but you will at least have to feel/re-feed one line. Good luck bro

Thanks all. Going to tackle it this evening. Will report back in the morning!

EDIT: Are there any special tools are anything that I should be aware of before starting? Just want to make sure I don't have to run to the store in the middle of working on it.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Thanks all. Going to tackle it this evening. Will report back in the morning!

EDIT: Are there any special tools are anything that I should be aware of before starting? Just want to make sure I don't have to run to the store in the middle of working on it.

Only special tool is needed to take off the rings to remove the pump/FPR. Can't get that at a store last minute.

[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Thanks all. Going to tackle it this evening. Will report back in the morning!

EDIT: Are there any special tools are anything that I should be aware of before starting? Just want to make sure I don't have to run to the store in the middle of working on it.

I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63000-Fuel-Tank-Lock/dp/B0079GPYA4 luckily amazon had next day pickup so that was sweet. Otherwise Ive read you can hammer it for a couple lifetimes per ring depending on how stuck it is lol

[Pelong69]

I have a 2012 335 with the N55 and every since I brought it last year it had what I first thought was long cranks upon start up which progressively got worse. I changed spark plugs, coils, gas cap, and just last week the hpfp which was the fix for me. Immediately after changing the hpfp the car starts as soon. As you which the key in. Just yesterday I changed the fuel filter/regulator since my car has just hit 103K. I have noticed an immediate different since yesterday with the filter kit being installed. Smoother idle and acceleration. I have MHD stage 1 with and intake and no more codes on on DME shown now. Hopefully the fuel filter/regulator kit solves your problem. I know for me I wanted to do the basics before anything else ... good luck !!!

[Pelong69]

Sorry for the typos my while using my phone to respond.

[SnapCoupe]

UPDATE: NO MORE LONG CRANKS!


Replaced the regulator last night and the car is firing up immediately. Even after sitting over night, not even the slightest hesitation or miss on start up. Previously, after the car would sit for a few hours, my rail pressure would drop to 18psi. Now, it is a consistent 75 psi prior to starting.

The metal rings to access the fuel tank were a real PITA. I had to soak each in WD40 and spent about 20-30 minutes per side with a socket and mallet getting them loose. Other than that, the job wasn't really that bad. Though, my hands are really agitated from being soaked in fuel all night.

Logs before and after regulator replacement:

Before:https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...1&data=4-14-15

After: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...0&data=4-14-15

Note the rail pressure before cranking on both. Also, you can see the massive stuttering and how the car almost dies due to fuel starvation on the before log. I do see that there is a bit of oscillation on the after log, but I have yet to drive the car to let it adapt. I plan to do that this evening.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Thanks for being a guinnea pig! Glad it worked. I think I'll tackle this one before winter hits again.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

UPDATE: NO MORE LONG CRANKS!


Replaced the regulator last night and the car is firing up immediately. Even after sitting over night, not even the slightest hesitation or miss on start up. Previously, after the car would sit for a few hours, my rail pressure would drop to 18psi. Now, it is a consistent 75 psi prior to starting.

The metal rings to access the fuel tank were a real PITA. I had to soak each in WD40 and spent about 20-30 minutes per side with a socket and mallet getting them loose. Other than that, the job wasn't really that bad. Though, my hands are really agitated from being soaked in fuel all night.

Logs before and after regulator replacement:

Before:https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...1&data=4-14-15

After: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...0&data=4-14-15

Note the rail pressure before cranking on both. Also, you can see the massive stuttering and how the car almost dies due to fuel starvation on the before log. I do see that there is a bit of oscillation on the after log, but I have yet to drive the car to let it adapt. I plan to do that this evening.

glad you get to keep the car !

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

UPDATE: NO MORE LONG CRANKS!


Replaced the regulator last night and the car is firing up immediately. Even after sitting over night, not even the slightest hesitation or miss on start up. Previously, after the car would sit for a few hours, my rail pressure would drop to 18psi. Now, it is a consistent 75 psi prior to starting.

The metal rings to access the fuel tank were a real PITA. I had to soak each in WD40 and spent about 20-30 minutes per side with a socket and mallet getting them loose. Other than that, the job wasn't really that bad. Though, my hands are really agitated from being soaked in fuel all night.

Logs before and after regulator replacement:

Before:https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...1&data=4-14-15

After: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/cold-s...0&data=4-14-15

Note the rail pressure before cranking on both. Also, you can see the massive stuttering and how the car almost dies due to fuel starvation on the before log. I do see that there is a bit of oscillation on the after log, but I have yet to drive the car to let it adapt. I plan to do that this evening.

Told ya! good shet brotha.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Thanks for being a guinnea pig! Glad it worked. I think I'll tackle this one before winter hits again.

Happy to help prove the concept for those to follow!

Originally Posted by Pladi

glad you get to keep the car !

Eh, even though it is running better than it ever has, I am still thinking of listing it in a month.

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

Told ya! good shet brotha.

Thanks man! I love when stuff works out as it should. That doesn't happen too often in the automotive DIY world. haha

Also, quick question. Over the past few days of driving since doing the job, I have gotten a close gas cap warning twice. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume it is because the metal rings on the tank aren't as tight as they should be. Is this a correct assumption? Or do you think it could be something else? Other than that, car is running solid.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Thanks man! I love when stuff works out as it should. That doesn't happen too often in the automotive DIY world. haha

Also, quick question. Over the past few days of driving since doing the job, I have gotten a close gas cap warning twice. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume it is because the metal rings on the tank aren't as tight as they should be. Is this a correct assumption? Or do you think it could be something else? Other than that, car is running solid.

You didnt seat the locking ring down correctly on either the LPFP side or Regulator side. it should tell you when you read MHD the size of the leak (Sometimes). Take the tools and go counterclockwise first then clockwise to seat the ring evenly.