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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Half Engine Light above 5k RPM (30FF, 2A82, 3100)



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      07-10-2019, 03:33 PM   #1
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Question Half Engine Light above 5k RPM (30FF, 2A82, 3100)

Hi Folks,

2007 E92 N54 335i, DP, DCI, JB4 (not active, map 0).

When I go above 5k RPM (usually in 2nd gear), and the engine is warm, I get the half engine light. If I stop and restart the engine after a couple minutes - everything is back to normal. Happens every time.

Pulled the following codes:
30FF: Turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
2A82: Inlet-Vanos variable cam control test
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
3100: boost-pressure control, deactivation
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Are these codes related to the problem I am having? If so, any clues what is going on?

Thanks so much.
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      07-10-2019, 03:49 PM   #2
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Do you notice a lack of power?

Do you delete codes and they come back?

It appears as there might be a problem with the intake Vanos solenoid, and the DME is reducing boost. Swap intake/exhaust solenoids and see what codes you get. You can also try cleaning them while they're out with brake/carb cleaner and compressed air. Mark/keep track of which solenoid came out of where so you know where to put them back in.
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      07-10-2019, 03:49 PM   #3
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Seems like you have a boost leak and possibly intake vanos solenoid needs cleaning or replacement. Check all vacuum lines for cracks/tears/being brittle and replace if necessary. Remove intake vanos solenoid and clean it or replace it.
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      07-12-2019, 05:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
Do you notice a lack of power?

Do you delete codes and they come back?

It appears as there might be a problem with the intake Vanos solenoid, and the DME is reducing boost. Swap intake/exhaust solenoids and see what codes you get. You can also try cleaning them while they're out with brake/carb cleaner and compressed air. Mark/keep track of which solenoid came out of where so you know where to put them back in.
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Originally Posted by IllSic_Design View Post
Seems like you have a boost leak and possibly intake vanos solenoid needs cleaning or replacement. Check all vacuum lines for cracks/tears/being brittle and replace if necessary. Remove intake vanos solenoid and clean it or replace it.
Thanks guys.

Pulled out and cleaned solenoids. On the next drive the half engine came back on. So looks like the a vacuum line problem. How do I know which ones are vacuum lines and how many are there to check?
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      07-12-2019, 06:00 PM   #5
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You'll have to be more detailed.

Did you swap the intake/exhaust solenoids as instructed?
No? Do it.
Yes? What do the codes tell you now? Still intake Vanos solenoid fault, or did it move to the exhaust side?

Cleaning the solenoids only helps a small % of errors, not sure how you concluded that it's ok and you should move on to vacuum lines. Vanos works off of oil pressure, not vacuum...

However...

There's plenty of guides on this forum about replacing vacuum lines. Good rule of thumb is to replace them all. You'll need about 12-15', get the silicone stuff, 3.5mm. Your boost solenoids do work off of vacuum, but when those fail, it's usually a boost pressure too high fault, not low.

Either way, swap your intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids first, then report back as to what you find. Clear codes before you drive off with them swapped. If the same fault returns, then you can likely rule out the solenoids. If it follows to the exhaust, then replace that solenoid.
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      07-15-2019, 07:21 AM   #6
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Check out Post 14 on the following Link:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894084

Get a single sided Razor Blade. (box cutter blades) Cut the original Lines in the same direction of the line at the end ONLY. Then with your Thumb Nail, pry it off each connection.

Before cutting new Line, Remove 1 Piece and replace it, then the next. else you would know which goes where.
This is a VERY Easy DIY, ONLY Difficult parts are:
1) Taking line off and on from Vacuum Canisters. you could damage the canister nipples if you force it.
2) Front Turbo Actuator Vacuum line. rear is OK, not that Bad.

Buy High Temp Silicone lines ONLY..... DON'T use Rubber windshield washer lines.

There are 2 Hard Plastic Vacuum lines going over the the Engine to the Vacuum Canisters. DO NOT REPLACE the Hard Plastic Portion. Else you will get a Rubber Burning smell in the cabin.

Go to this Post to see how to do the Front Turbo Actuator Vacuum Line the EASY Way. My Idea.
Go to Verocious Motor Sports to Buy Really Good Vacuum Line for a REALLY Good Price.
3.5mm Inside Diameter will do.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1440745

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot

Last edited by BashShah; 07-15-2019 at 07:37 AM..
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