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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > CBH missing; can I start my car?



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      07-14-2019, 12:57 PM   #1
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CBH missing; can I start my car?

Just had the pleasure of changing my starter. '06 330i.

Of course I broke a crankcase breather hose (top off of valve cover). It should be coming tomorrow in the mail, but I'd like to know if my car will start in the meantime. How much oil should I expect "misting" from my valve cover? With the engine being cold i assume not much, but I'd like to make sure my original issue was indeed my starter. (00A0B4, long cranks then no cranks). I'll get a catch rigged up if I should expect a lot.

I'm also worried that the lower CBH might not be as snug on the PCV as I would like that returns it to the oil pan. Is there access from underneath? I pushed like hell to get it back on before properly seating the IM, but it popped off once when I forgot to plug in the rear DISA motor. I pushed like hell again, and pulled, but I'm worried it's not tight. Does anyone know if there is pressure forcing the caught oil through the return or if it is minimal.
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      07-14-2019, 05:55 PM   #2
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I would not run without that hose. I assume you will have vacuum leaks and crappy running car.

You can rig a replacement hose for under $5 at any auto parts store. All you need is like 1/2” ID (maybe 3/4” can’t remember) rubber vacuum line and 2 x 1” diameter hose clamps.

Cut the broken section of oem plastic hose out and then use the vacuum line and hose clamps to rejoin the hose. I did this 2 years/20k miles ago and no issues yet. It’s much faster and cheaper than ordering a new hose.

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      07-14-2019, 06:15 PM   #3
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I used 3/4" hose. It actually fit tight enough I didn't need clamps.
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      07-14-2019, 06:30 PM   #4
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I frankly just wrapped the hell out of my M3 breather hose with electrical tape and it ran properly for 10,000 miles like that.
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      07-15-2019, 05:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
I would not run without that hose. I assume you will have vacuum leaks and crappy running car.

You can rig a replacement hose for under $5 at any auto parts store. All you need is like 1/2" ID (maybe 3/4" can't remember) rubber vacuum line and 2 x 1" diameter hose clamps.

Cut the broken section of oem plastic hose out and then use the vacuum line and hose clamps to rejoin the hose. I did this 2 years/20k miles ago and no issues yet. It's much faster and cheaper than ordering a new hose.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/26QG4yxj/04-C30...135-EA7065.jpg[/img]
Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
I used 3/4" hose. It actually fit tight enough I didn't need clamps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phyrexia View Post
I frankly just wrapped the hell out of my M3 breather hose with electrical tape and it ran properly for 10,000 miles like that.
You guys are awesome. I thought about just rigging one up, but decided against it. Bravo, however. I knew the car wouldn't like it without it hooked up. Hose will be here in ~10 hours. After I sleep. I think I can wait.
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      07-15-2019, 07:49 AM   #6
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Real question. We're talking about vacuum. So I should then be more concerned about the lower return line that I may believe isn't tightly fit enough? Can anyone state if this lower return line is "sucking" or just allowing a drip return?
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      07-15-2019, 03:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
I would not run without that hose. I assume you will have vacuum leaks and crappy running car.

You can rig a replacement hose for under $5 at any auto parts store. All you need is like 1/2" ID (maybe 3/4" can't remember) rubber vacuum line and 2 x 1" diameter hose clamps.

Cut the broken section of oem plastic hose out and then use the vacuum line and hose clamps to rejoin the hose. I did this 2 years/20k miles ago and no issues yet. It's much faster and cheaper than ordering a new hose.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/26QG4yxj/04-C30...135-EA7065.jpg[/img]
Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
I used 3/4" hose. It actually fit tight enough I didn't need clamps.
What did you each do about the electrical connections?
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      07-15-2019, 03:26 PM   #8
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the heater coil? I removed it from the original (including the insulation) and re-wrapped it around my "new" one.
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      07-15-2019, 05:50 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
the heater coil? I removed it from the original (including the insulation) and re-wrapped it around my "new" one.
The wrong hose showed up. So I picked up some 3/4" tubing. Wish me luck.
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      07-15-2019, 06:52 PM   #10
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I just realized I broke the wire on the heater coil. Can someone chime in on its importance?
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      07-15-2019, 07:18 PM   #11
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It can plug up without the heater. But as a temp repair, you can leave it off. Or just solder it back together.
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      07-15-2019, 07:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
It can plug up without the heater. But as a temp repair, you can leave it off. Or just solder it back together.
Isn't this mainly during extremely cold conditions though?

I've constructed my new hose. 3/4" worked perfectly, great advice. Thank you! That's went on beautifully. Started double checking everything and it seems that the lower return hose has disconnected from the IM. FML; going to take a nap before third shift in two hours. Luckily; I get to drive my buddy's F13 m6!
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      07-15-2019, 07:42 PM   #13
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The heater runs all the time. The oil vapors can sludge up, it doesn't have to be freezing out.
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      07-16-2019, 08:47 AM   #14
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She came back to life about a half hour ago. Seem to have gotten the return back on and will be heavily monitoring it. Finishing up the cowl remount.

Thank you all for your help. Especially hassmaschine for your quick responses. Go N52s!
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