[pb32]

Originally Posted by Ardy111

To do delete or not to do deletes??
2011 335D is in the shop having SCR pump replaced to the tune of $1100 P&L.
The shop says he can do all the deletes and ECU upgrade for about $3K. Cost me an additional $2K if I go that route.
Thoughts?

Hey Ardy,
I'm new to the forum and the 335d. (2010) I'm in park city and would like to know which shop you are using. Do they program the ECU or send it out?
Thanks

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

TDI, you're correct. The fuel pump does not activate with ignition on. Very strange that they describe it like that in the service manual.
However, I did find out how to activate the fuel pump with EDIABAS. The fuel pump has it's own control module, so you have to load EKP360.prg. In order to activate the pump, select the job "steuern_vorgeben" and enter 60 into the arguments field. Then double click the job. You will be able to hear the pump. In order to stop the fuel pump double click the job "steuern_ret_contr_to_ecu".

Im sure this can be done in Rheingold....but Im crap at navigating that thing....do you know how to do it there?

(I have mostly avoided EDIABAS because German...)

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Im sure this can be done in Rheingold....but Im crap at navigating that thing....do you know how to do it there?

(I have mostly avoided EDIABAS because German...)

Actually this might do the trick...from another board....about x5 diesels

6) connect the diagnostic cable and run DIS v57. once the QUICK TEST is completed in DIS, hit the next button (green arrow on the bottom right hand side). Press FUNCTION SELECTION button on the bottom left hand side of DIS. under FUNCTIONS, select SERVICE FUNCTIONS, then select DIESEL ELECTRONICS. Now under the Diesel electronics menu, select BLEEDING, FUEL SYSTEM, then press TEST SCHEDULE button which is located at the bottom.

7) Now by the time i got to this stage i was too excited and didnt take photos or screen shots or remember exactly what the system displayed however let me try to describe it to u, and when you guys get to this stage, u will know what i mean. so please bear with me.

there will be some text that says something along the lines of " the fuel pump will be activated for at least 3 minutes to ensure system is bled of all air" something like that. When u see this press the next button (green arrow on bottom of right hand side).

now u should hear ur electric fuel pump in the fuel tank run, its a distince whirring sound, and u will hear sloshing/hissing/splashing sound as well, as the fuel is pushed into filter, up to the high pressure fuel pump and back into the tank via the return lines and back into the tank.. that is the sloshing sound ur hearing.. the diesel returning to the tank. let this run for about 3 minutes. whilst that is going on, feel around the rubber outlet hose and also the inlet/preheater assembly for any leaks. there should be none. If there is tighten the clamp and check the clip for the inlet assembly to ensure it is installed correctly. Im not sure if the software automatically stops electric pump after three minutes, however I just waited for what seemed like three minutes and press the next button in DIS, this takes us to the next step of the bleeding/priming process. DIS will tell u something along the lines of "ensure park brake on and vehicle is secured for next step". Press next, DIS will now tell u to start the engine. Press the brake pedal and hit the start engine button, ur engine should fire up straight away like normal. At this stage DIS will say something like " Ur engine RPM will be raised to set fuel rail pressure and ensure all air is bled from system" something along those lines, i dont remember the exact text word for word. Once engine is started ur rpm will automatically rise to about 2000rpm. This is DIS at work. leave ur car in this state (idleing at 2000rpm). DIS says to leave it for 10mins. after around this time i pressed the next button in DIS, the engine rpm dropped back to normal idle speed. DIS then said to switch off engine, and that was end of bleeding procedure.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Im sure this can be done in Rheingold....but Im crap at navigating that thing....do you know how to do it there?

(I have mostly avoided EDIABAS because German...)

I'm surprised that DIS still works with our cars. Last time I used it was 2009 I think. But I must agree - neither DIS or Rheingold are programs that one would call intuitive to navigate. The newer versions of Rheingold (ISTA+ 4.02) have made some efforts in terms of navigation though. Below is a picture on how to get to the fuel bleeding procedure.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I'm surprised that DIS still works with our cars. Last time I used it was 2009 I think. But I must agree - neither DIS or Rheingold are programs that one would call intuitive to navigate. The newer versions of Rheingold (ISTA+ 4.02) have made some efforts in terms of navigation though. Below is a picture on how to get to the fuel bleeding procedure.

DAMN IT....thats exactly what I needed Mik.....I didnt get the notification that you updated this until today...one day late. THANK you though!

Ill link that in the hpfp pump thread...

[Billysgoat]

Saving that pic for later, thanks!

[Mik325tds]

Chief Orman was so nice to put together a document with the most important steps and some more info in order to print out or give to your mechanic. Here it is:
If you have any suggestions on what should be explained in the document, please shoot me a PM or post here.

[CheckinMyFresh]

Good guide but the link is dead in the PDF

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by CheckinMyFresh

Good guide but the link is dead in the PDF

Thanks! Fixed.

[bayerischer]

hey guys quick question. can i delete my egr just by disconnecting the electric cable that goes in it? i tried today, no codes or warnings thrown

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by bayerischer

hey guys quick question. can i delete my egr just by disconnecting the electric cable that goes in it? i tried today, no codes or warnings thrown

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1401027

If you're gonna unplug it completely you may as well install a race pipe. If it's completely unplugged and you aren't throwing codes, are you sure you aren't already tuned in some way?

[cruisernaz]

Looking forward to joining you pioneers! Just picked up one of these vehicles and I blame my brother and you guys. My brother did a stage 4 on one of these and he let me drive it. I was sold right away. Then he took me for a second drive and used the meth. I was blown away. I think I'm at the point of no return. Ordered the 2.8, shipped the ECU and now just waiting. I think I might just start on the removal before everything gets back.

Thanks for the detailed steps to give me the confidence. I'm not a gear-head by any stretch but I think I can tackle this now without a mechanic. Was looking for a project with my 12 year old and this is it. He's stoked.

Btw, Andrew at AARodriguez has been great with my questions/emails.

Looking forward to the project and thanks again to all of you who have contributed to this thread!

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by cruisernaz

Looking forward to joining you pioneers! Just picked up one of these vehicles and I blame my brother and you guys. My brother did a stage 4 on one of these and he let me drive it. I was sold right away. Then he took me for a second drive and used the meth. I was blown away. I think I'm at the point of no return. Ordered the 2.8, shipped the ECU and now just waiting. I think I might just start on the removal before everything gets back.

Thanks for the detailed steps to give me the confidence. I'm not a gear-head by any stretch but I think I can tackle this now without a mechanic. Was looking for a project with my 12 year old and this is it. He's stoked.

Btw, Andrew at AARodriguez has been great with my questions/emails.

Looking forward to the project and thanks again to all of you who have contributed to this thread!

I've probably talked with your brother on the Facebook group lol. Not too many JR Stage 4 running around. Good to have you around! I did the physical work while I was waiting for my ECU to get back from Andrew @ AARodriguez. ECU arrived just as I was tightening up he last few bolts. Feel free to message me if you need any help! You can also find me on the Facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/NA335DOG/

[cruisernaz]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I've probably talked with your brother on the Facebook group lol. Not too many JR Stage 4 running around. Good to have you around! I did the physical work while I was waiting for my ECU to get back from Andrew @ AARodriguez. ECU arrived just as I was tightening up he last few bolts. Feel free to message me if you need any help! You can also find me on the Facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/NA335DOG/

Ha! You probably have. He's mentioned the Facebook group, I'm just not on Facebook...yet. Tells me how helpful everyone is. I've read quite a bit on this forum. IIRC, you've posted a pretty quick time in the 1/4 so I'm sure you're one of the guys he's talked to. This may be the thing that pushes me over the edge. Appreciate the welcome and offer for help. I'll probably need it!

Oh yeah, he invited us to see him race at one of the tracks. Got another brother that raced his car there the same night. It was quite the family affair. I could see the look on my wife's face trying to figure out if I was contemplating getting a new toy! You know, that stink eye look. My brother started sending me links to some for sale postings. Then he found me a local one that I just couldn't resist.

Hopefully I report back on Tuesday (delivery date) or Wednesday that I'm finished with the first portion. Then onto the race pipe, swirl flaps and intercooler. I just hope I can stop there!

[cruisernaz]

Just thought I'd report back with scrapes, cuts and frustration but finally got through it. Huge thanks to Torqu3!!! That guy is great!

Ok, I'm not totally finished. But down pipe is in. Now just re-attaching exhaust and buttoning up a couple things like ECU and undercarriage covers. Woohoo!

Torqu3, you're my ambassador of Quan, man!

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by cruisernaz

Just thought I'd report back with scrapes, cuts and frustration but finally got through it. Huge thanks to Torqu3!!! That guy is great!

Ok, I'm not totally finished. But down pipe is in. Now just re-attaching exhaust and buttoning up a couple things like ECU and undercarriage covers. Woohoo!

Torqu3, you're my ambassador of Quan, man!

Just happy to see another deleted M57 out and about!

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by cruisernaz

Just thought I'd report back with scrapes, cuts and frustration but finally got through it. Huge thanks to Torqu3!!! That guy is great!

Ok, I'm not totally finished. But down pipe is in. Now just re-attaching exhaust and buttoning up a couple things like ECU and undercarriage covers. Woohoo!

Torqu3, you're my ambassador of Quan, man!

Assume you've arranged to gut the SCR too? Best to do it all at once.

Some people wait a few thousand miles but as back pressures increase it plays havoc with the car's adaptions. Aka more variables to sort out if you experience odd running.

[cruisernaz]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Assume you've arranged to gut the SCR too? Best to do it all at once.

Some people wait a few thousand miles but as back pressures increase it plays havoc with the car's adaptions. Aka more variables to sort out if you experience odd running.

That was the first thing I did with my son. It was like Office Space and the fax machine. Beating the scr filter with a crowbar! My son's idea.

[cruisernaz]

Just my contribution...some of it may not be perfect (I'm a beginner) but just as a another guide to help others.

Steps to get the DPF out and Down Pipe with SCR delete

Intro - read the thread and the PDF instructions then use this as a supplement. Watch some videos. AARodriguez has a quick one showing the motor mount and dampener that helped immenseley. Join Facebook if it's just for this install. That's what I did. Never been on it before. Very helpful people. I would've quit if it wasn't for one of them. Torqu3!!! Both Andrew and AARod saved the day multiple times! By the way, I'm one of those guys that hates working on cars. For some reason, this job was much more attractive doing it with my son and trying to be cool like my brother and his Stage 4.

Remember, if you get frustrated just take a break. I can't tell you how many times I got out from under the vehicle to get an update on the World Series, get a drink or text Torqu3! What a lifeline!

1. Removing exhaust from DPF is pretty straightforward as well as removing it from car. You can remove SCR valve too for comfort.

2. Cut open SCR filter box in exhaust and use a crowbar to smash filter. My wife made me and my son wear masks. Still didn't take away from the fun!

3. Disconnect eletrical connections in engine bay that connect to DPF
TIP - use a screwdriver to slide the connections away from mount, then you can easily disconnect them

3a. Don't remove any of the cables/sensor connected to the DPF until after it's completely removed. You can but it's extra difficult.

4. Put two or three extensions together to remove the top nut of the dampener reaching it from above in the engine bay

4a. Remove the plate covering the vacuum hose from below - these two bolts go into the dampener (total of 3 bolts and one nut to disconnect dampener)

4b. Remove last bolt from the wheel well access (you need to remove a plastic cover to access bolt)

5. Lift engine about an inch using a bottle jack or anything else you're comfortable using to give you room to remove dampener after arm mount is removed

6. Remove arm mount from engine - four bolts - now you'll be able to remove the dampener once the arm mount is removed

7. Now you can unbolt the DPF - three bolts plus the v-clamp - do v-clamp last and voila! I also removed the bottom support plate.

8. Keep metal gasket for installing down pipe. Re-attaching the v-clamp is tricky. At least it was for me. There's a special washer on it that's used for holding in place.

8a. Loosen the screw on the v-clamp until the bottom is flush giving you enough room to close it around the turbo and down pipe. Took me a bit to figure that out.

9. Line up the dampener properly and screw in the sidebolt then the two bolts from the bottom putting the plate back in place over the vacuum hose.

10. Motor mount is really just a feel thing. Use the force! After much turmoil, I decided to do the bottom rear bolt first and put the socket on it before putting the arm mount in place. Then for the others it's just a feel thing. I closed my eyes. Honestly, it seemed to help. Get right up next to it like you're slow dancing with mount.

11. Success! The hardest parts are now done! Attach the exhaust to the downpipe. Tighten up and loose screws like the v-clamp. I didn't have it completely tight to allow for a little movement to install the exhaust.

12. Don't forget to remove the two fuses. I did and dep spilled on the floor. Then I pulled the wrong fuse and got no dashboard!

Disclaimer: I honestly didn't know what I was doing. I'm not a mechanic. Use this at your own risk but hopefully it will help someone like me who really likes step-by-step instructions in a helpful order. I'm not even a tinkerer. Maybe I am now but before this I wouldn't have thought I could get through this project without reading some of the documentation already out there, specifically the PDF put together by Chief Orman from the thread by Mik in MI. I thought this addition could help for those of us that are less mechanically inclined.

Thanks guys! Also responses by others in this thread helped me feel like this was something I could do myself as a fun project with my 12 year old son. That cool dude helped me more than a few times when I was stuck!

By the way, worth every moment of blood, sweat, tears, scrapes and frustration. This thing is a different engine.

[cruisernaz]

Btw, went for a ride late last night with my boy...after his bedtime. Nothing was stopping us. The smile on his face was priceless.

[complexCarlo]

Wow what a helpful thread!

[nicklockard]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Only EGT that matters is in the manifold. Keeping the turbo housing and down pipe hotter should increase exhaust velocity. I've always coated my turbo housings and turbo manifolds. Helps to keep the heat in, which keeps the engine compartment cooler and increases velocity by keeping the heat energy in the pipe. Exhaust wrap and heat coating has been proven. It works. I don't see why it wouldn't help of work in our car.

Not sure what's right or wrong but, my set up seems to be working. Now, would I pull a pipe to coat it? No f-Ing way but, it's its off... Why not?!

Sorry for bumping this sub-topic ages later, but I'm considering wrapping my dp and cat (have the iaknown full exhaust in) in order to help the catalyst light off sooner and reduce smell. The smell is pretty bad. Anyone done this? Impressions? Did it help any?