[Gregrobin]

Dropped her off at the dealer last night to go thru the car and check everything out for me. I'm pleased with their inspection/assessment

1. Value cover is leaking at the back left corner. They are recommending replacing the the cylinder head assembly as well given the age of the car. Is this necessary?
   
2. Both front control arm bushings are leaking fluid, they recommend replacement.
   
3. Passenger front shock is leaking.
   
4. Found vehicle to be low on boost. Audible sound coming from where the boost is leaking. Recommend smoke test.
   
5. Brake Flush recommended.
   
6. When engine is cold their is a pulley in the drive belt system making noise. Recommend having looked into before a pulley seizes.

For now I am having them do the control arm bushings and then an alignment.

[fgpalmer71]

When I purchased my car in July 1 of the only issues that came up was the passenger side bushing leaking. It had just begun to leak. I purchased the M3 control arms to replace them. The parts were actually cheaper and the install rate is identical.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

When I purchased my car in July 1 of the only issues that came up was the passenger side bushing leaking. It had just begun to leak. I purchased the M3 control arms to replace them. The parts were actually cheaper and the install rate is identical.

I thought about doing them myself, but it was there, price was fair.

Just picked up the car. They chased down the boost leak and fixed it at no charge. Spent some time talking to the tech who worked on the car. He liked the BOV on the charge pipe. Even made some suggestions on things I should do if I continue to upgrade. He said no need to do a walnut blast until I have symptons, save your money.

Car is handling better, ride is smoother. Any holy crap, I had no idea I had a boost leak, now that it's fixed she is a monster/machine, wow!!

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Dropped her off at the dealer last night to go thru the car and check everything out for me. I'm pleased with their inspection/assessment

1. Value cover is leaking at the back left corner. They are recommending replacing the the cylinder head assembly as well given the age of the car. Is this necessary?
   
2. Both front control arm bushings are leaking fluid, they recommend replacement.
   
3. Passenger front shock is leaking.
   
4. Found vehicle to be low on boost. Audible sound coming from where the boost is leaking. Recommend smoke test.
   
5. Brake Flush recommended.
   
6. When engine is cold their is a pulley in the drive belt system making noise. Recommend having looked into before a pulley seizes.

For now I am having them do the control arm bushings and then an alignment.

On what basis are they saying the cylinder head assembly should be replaced?

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

On what basis are they saying the cylinder head assembly should be replaced?

They said cylinder head, but they meant valve cover. Age of car and better fitment with the new gasket. Plus there could be a small, not seen by the eye, crack in it. I did some research and evidentially these are prone to cracking. Service Manager and tech both said the labor is the same to replace valve cover/valve gasket, it's worth it to go ahead and buy a new cover if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

They said cylinder head, but they meant valve cover. Age of car and better fitment with the new gasket. Plus there could be a small, not seen by the eye, crack in it. I did some research and evidentially these are prone to cracking. Service Manager and tech both said the labor is the same to replace valve cover/valve gasket, it's worth it to go ahead and buy a new cover if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

yeah they tend to break when trying to remove them, as they can stick to head pretty good. But if the shop is good/careful you can get by without a new cover. I replaced my gasket only, probably 100k ago, cover didn't break and is still going strong at 220k. If you have the money and don't mind spending it for piece of mind then do the cover also.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

They said cylinder head, but they meant valve cover. Age of car and better fitment with the new gasket. Plus there could be a small, not seen by the eye, crack in it. I did some research and evidentially these are prone to cracking. Service Manager and tech both said the labor is the same to replace valve cover/valve gasket, it's worth it to go ahead and buy a new cover if you plan to keep the car for a long time.

Ok, that makes sense.

[Gregrobin]

Installed these today, I thought they may look cheap, they look nice: https://www.amazon.com/KVR-Non-Slip-...58829409&psc=1

[Gregrobin]

I've been emailing with FCP Euro all day after talking to the dealer about me buying me own parts and them doing the install. Saves me a few hundred. Just purchased https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-11127565284 with their guidance.

My only concern is I have the FTP N54 PCV Valve Upgraded Replacement. Per FCP it should work just fine.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

I've been emailing with FCP Euro all day after talking to the dealer about me buying me own parts and them doing the install. Saves me a few hundred. Just purchased https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-11127565284 with their guidance.

My only concern is I have the FTP N54 PCV Valve Upgraded Replacement. Per FCP it should work just fine.

Lol, I purchased the same PCV, going to throw a bunch of parts at it this week, including that. That's no concern at all. Just make sure they're aware so they can swap it over to the new VC....if they're replacing that.

My ARM catless DP's should be here tomorrow. Then she's going on jack stands for a few days while I go through the cooling system, install the M3 front control arms, replace the rotors and pads, paint the calipers and handle the DP's. After that's done I'm heading for an alignment and new rear tires. I only got 10k miles out of the rear Summitomo tires I purchsed to drive it home on.....they are 500AA treadwear rated. That makes me nervous about putting these 19's on. Summer tires are pricey and shouldn't last as long as these all-seasons! There's a few other little things I've amassed over the winter that will hopefully be dealt with too.

Stage 2+ this weekend.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

Stage 2+ this weekend.

Stage 1 is enough for me right now, I'm old

Let us know the results. I'd like to hear about the paint for your calibers as well.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Stage 1 is enough for me right now, I'm old

Let us know the results. I'd like to hear about the paint for your calibers as well.

I'll try to figure out how to post pics and I'll post some before and after pics. I always use G2 caliper paint and it always comes out great. It's all in the prep. Going with yellow this time. I'm thinking the yellow on the space grey will pop nicely. I intend to finish it off with yellow seatbelt replacements. We'll see.

Stage 1+ is honestly plenty. But I had it in my head that I was going to go FBO and take it to stage 2+.....so that's what I'm doing! Lol. Rear tires be damned!

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

I'm thinking the yellow on the space grey will pop nicely

Agreed, nice color combo

[fgpalmer71]

Gregrobin,
The yellow calipers done with G2 came out well. I love the look on the space gray. I'll try to figure out how to attach a pic.

Changing all of the coolant hoses, coolant reservoir, Mickey mouse fitting and the windshield washer motor was a piece of cake. I struggled with getting the fan back in the car. There's a channel on the fan that must slide over a tab on the intercooler pipe that was extremely difficult for me to handle. If I had a spare set of hands it'd have been much easier.

OFHG and Oil cooler gaskets weren't bad at all. Toughest part of that was removing and replacing the intake manifold, which isn't too bad. I took a look at my intake valves and they weren't terrible. I can't see paying anyone to do that particular job....ever.

The DP's were a PITA. The V-clamps sucked to deal with. I flashed stage 2+ and I'm of the opinion that it was definitely worth the hassle. They sound amazing. The spool noises are intoxicating.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

Gregrobin,
The yellow calipers done with G2 came out well. I love the look on the space gray. I'll try to figure out how to attach a pic.

Changing all of the coolant hoses, coolant reservoir, Mickey mouse fitting and the windshield washer motor was a piece of cake. I struggled with getting the fan back in the car. There's a channel on the fan that must slide over a tab on the intercooler pipe that was extremely difficult for me to handle. If I had a spare set of hands it'd have been much easier.

OFHG and Oil cooler gaskets weren't bad at all. Toughest part of that was removing and replacing the intake manifold, which isn't too bad. I took a look at my intake valves and they weren't terrible. I can't see paying anyone to do that particular job....ever.

The DP's were a PITA. The V-clamps sucked to deal with. I flashed stage 2+ and I'm of the opinion that it was definitely worth the hassle. They sound amazing. The spool noises are intoxicating.

Very nice, I have not done much to mine since the new valve cover/valve cover gasket and new front struts, other than polish the rims and drive her, a lot :-)

[spxxx]

Just download my tunes on the other "xxxboost" forum, they're a good starting point if you want to fiddle with them and have an aggressive starting point.

Search spx N54 bin on google and you'll find them.

[Gregrobin]

The upgrades continue...

Installed an ARM 5" Intercooler FMIC today and went to MHD Stage 1+.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post27646285

Changed the oil to LIQUI MOLY 10W - 40 as well.

Time to do some pulls now!

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

The upgrades continue...

Installed an ARM 5" Intercooler FMIC today and went to MHD Stage 1+.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post27646285

Changed the oil to LIQUI MOLY 10W - 40 as well.

Time to do some pulls now!

Liqui moly is the best. Curious why 10w40?
I have always used 5w40.
I'm sure it's ok, just wondering what made you go this route.

[Gregrobin]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Liqui moly is the best. Curious why 10w40?
I have always used 5w40.
I'm sure it's ok, just wondering what made you go this route.

Oops, it was 5W-40: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

[Gregrobin]

Did some reading on how to do MHD pulls/logs and gave it a try yesterday. Not sure I know what I am doing, but on the live boost monitor I saw 18.7, in the log I saw upper 14s. Oil temp never got higher than 235. IAT was around 115.

MHD Stage 1+, is this normal, low, high?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Did some reading on how to do MHD pulls/logs and gave it a try yesterday. Not sure I know what I am doing, but on the live boost monitor I saw 18.7, in the log I saw upper 14s. Oil temp never got higher than 235. IAT was around 115.

MHD Stage 1+, is this normal, low, high?

Logs?

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by Gregrobin

Did some reading on how to do MHD pulls/logs and gave it a try yesterday. Not sure I know what I am doing, but on the live boost monitor I saw 18.7, in the log I saw upper 14s. Oil temp never got higher than 235. IAT was around 115.

MHD Stage 1+, is this normal, low, high?

That 18.7 on the live monitor might just be a boost spike on shifts.