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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Good old transmission issues



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      08-07-2020, 06:23 PM   #1
HydroxFrost
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Good old transmission issues

Hey guys, I have a 2006 e90 330i with the ZF 6HP19 automatic transmission. Lately I've been experiencing some issues that I've googled but not found my exact symptoms.

I don't have the 2-1 issue from what I know, my car usually shifts smoothly with the occasional shift I can feel a tiny bit until the other day.

The other day after finishing my custom headlight build, I went down to the other end of my street to take some pictures. When I left, I noticed what I believe to be a REALLY rough shift (I think into 2nd) and it didn't repeat the problem the rest of the way back down the street. I took it out the next day for a drive in which it shifted amazingly UNTIL I drove up a really steep hill. I felt a pretty rough shift and the entire drive home was sketchy to me. Gave it a little gas on a level road and it shifted great until randomly upshifting me to 4th, 5th then 6th at the end as if I let off when I didn't.

I hope I caught it early in time but I can't afford to really overhaul the transmission at the moment, ordered some fluid and a new pan kit because my only thought is maybe the transmission had a slow leak. I'm hoping it doesn't need mechatronic seals or solenoids because I genuinely can't afford it right now. Anyone else have a similar experience and have a bit of reassurance for me? I lost sleep last night worrying about needing an entirely new transmission.
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      08-07-2020, 07:26 PM   #2
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I'm thinking with the age, you probably need a mechatronic kit. It's not terrible, but it is a thing (there's a DIY on here). You could try and just replacing the fluid a few times and see if that helps, but at your car's age, it's probably time if it hasnt been done.
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      08-07-2020, 08:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
I'm thinking with the age, you probably need a mechatronic kit. It's not terrible, but it is a thing (there's a DIY on here). You could try and just replacing the fluid a few times and see if that helps, but at your car's age, it's probably time if it hasnt been done.
I know how to do it, I've done it on an e60 545i before its just the money that's the problem at the moment. Not making much due to covid at the moment. I would love to do seals and solenoids preventatively but the pan kit, plus coils the week before put me back a decent amount.
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      08-07-2020, 08:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HydroxFrost View Post
I know how to do it, I've done it on an e60 545i before its just the money that's the problem at the moment. Not making much due to covid at the moment. I would love to do seals and solenoids preventatively but the pan kit, plus coils the week before put me back a decent amount.
gotcha. Then replace what fluids you can and then do it right when you can. good luck to you.
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      08-07-2020, 08:15 PM   #5
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gotcha. Then replace what fluids you can and then do it right when you can. good luck to you.
I appreciate it, hopefully it fixes most of my problems but I plan to do an overhaul at some point.
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      08-07-2020, 10:48 PM   #6
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Are you able to read codes at all? Cheap d-can cable and windows PC?

I get that you can't just throw money at it. But knowing potential errors could help direct whatever resources you do have to where they're most effective, or to help you at least limp it along until you can do any needed repairs.
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      08-08-2020, 12:22 AM   #7
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The fluid can be quite expensive itself. Are you using zfs unicorn tear fluid? I did an unhealthy amount of research for my 335i and turns out fords mercon sp is about the same and way cheaper. Maybe you could save on it if you wanna take a bit of a gamble and have more for the valve body seals.
Hope a service fixes it for you because now it's not the time to be just throwing money at a car.
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      08-08-2020, 02:02 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
Are you able to read codes at all? Cheap d-can cable and windows PC?

I get that you can't just throw money at it. But knowing potential errors could help direct whatever resources you do have to where they're most effective, or to help you at least limp it along until you can do any needed repairs.
I have inpa and a bluedriver pocket scanner that does bmw codes as well. Neither show me any transmission codes. I checked the error and information memory last night and it didn't show me any errors at all, that's why I'm hopeful that its not too serious.
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      08-08-2020, 02:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by E92William View Post
The fluid can be quite expensive itself. Are you using zfs unicorn tear fluid? I did an unhealthy amount of research for my 335i and turns out fords mercon sp is about the same and way cheaper. Maybe you could save on it if you wanna take a bit of a gamble and have more for the valve body seals.
Hope a service fixes it for you because now it's not the time to be just throwing money at a car.
Not using the ZF fluid because it costs a literal arm and a leg but I am using Liqui moly that does meet the spec for our transmissions. Was about $8 CAD per litre. I should have more money for it soon, I have the time to drop the valve body at a later date if I do need seals or solenoids. I heard a long time back about the mercon sp when I was doing the service on my e60 and it was close enough to run without issue
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      08-08-2020, 10:25 AM   #10
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I have had that issue in 2 of my 3 BMWs. Check fluid level first. Engine running, car level and fluid between 30 and 50 degrees C.

Both cases were solved by new solenoids which are down to $260. https://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-sp...-kits-115.html My seals were all fine but I changed them anyway.

What sort of mods did you do to the headlights? Perhaps if you caused interference on the can bus, the transmisison could be doing odd things. Un-do your mods as a sanity check.
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      08-08-2020, 01:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smass View Post
I have had that issue in 2 of my 3 BMWs. Check fluid level first. Engine running, car level and fluid between 30 and 50 degrees C.

Both cases were solved by new solenoids which are down to $260. https://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-sp...-kits-115.html My seals were all fine but I changed them anyway.

What sort of mods did you do to the headlights? Perhaps if you caused interference on the can bus, the transmisison could be doing odd things. Un-do your mods as a sanity check.
The only electrical modification I've done to my headlights were the angel eyes, coded out the DRL and Corner lights so I can run angel eyes only in parking mode. I'd rather not disconnect them and try to run the car at the moment until I'm certain my transmission is full of fluid.
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      08-10-2020, 01:25 PM   #12
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Actually, to re-visit this idea of can bus interference. After coding my headlights, my pocket scanner now reads CID Codes, however I do not have a CID. I thought nothing of it because its reading the same codes as my FRM module, but I pushed new values to two files after pulling files from NFRM and FRM. Hmm

Edit: Realized non idrive cars "CID Codes" came from the cluster. Still weird that it reads the same codes as the FRM now though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smass View Post
I have had that issue in 2 of my 3 BMWs. Check fluid level first. Engine running, car level and fluid between 30 and 50 degrees C.

Both cases were solved by new solenoids which are down to $260. https://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-sp...-kits-115.html My seals were all fine but I changed them anyway.

What sort of mods did you do to the headlights? Perhaps if you caused interference on the can bus, the transmisison could be doing odd things. Un-do your mods as a sanity check.
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      08-10-2020, 03:36 PM   #13
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If you code the car to add navigation pro to your VO, CID and ZBE modules are going to show up even if they not in the car.
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      08-12-2020, 09:08 PM   #14
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Little update, finished my flush and fill. Drained out 5.5L and put back 6L before it was a steady drizzle out of the fill port. Didn't find any leaks in the process so I assume it was always half a litre low. Seemed to transition a lot smoother into reverse, neutral and drive but I'll know for sure tomorrow when I take it for a spin. Almost nothing on the magnet as far as mechanical wear goes and the fluid wasn't too bad looking. I'll take a look at trans cooler tomorrow to make sure its not leaking either. Problem HOPEFULLY solved
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