[eljay]

Originally Posted by POBEP

I read the entire thread and want to say thank you all.

Mine OPG is leaking beyond my comfort level now.
For this project I will pass on DIY as:
1) my home mechanic execution time will considerably exceed my professional hourly rate when compared to paying 8-10h of trusted professional car shop labor + lost drop off and pickup trips time
2) there will be additional time spent cleaning oily mess everywhere

My 2009 E91 (N52KP) has been garaged in San Francisco its entire life (13y/104,000mi)
There is no signs of rust anywhere.

I know this question was asked before, however will ask it again in 2022:

Should I have my mechanic replace:
- plastic oil return line
- oil level sensor seal
- engine mounts (there is no vibration of any kind)
- WP/thermostat (running on factory ones, no fan spinning or WP codes)
- anything else?

I did everything except the oil return line on mine. 89k miles.

[def328]

Like others here, I just want to give thanks not only to the OP for starting this thread, but for all the forum members who've added their experience to the project.

With help from this thread, I replaced mine yesterday in a 2009 E92, sports package. Given that I read this thread (and watched a few YouTube videos), nothing really caught me off guard. The worst part about the entire procedure was getting the 8Nm on those bolts. I don't have a digital wrench and I'm sure there's 1 or 2 that are a little over that amount.

Also, as others have stated, the whole ordeal probably took ~ 10 hours. That was with repalcing the motor mounts (which wasn't a big deal at all), and taking a little extra time to clean burnt oil off of everything. Hands down, most of the time was spent ensuring the pan was properly/evenly torqued. That said, if I had anything unique to offer to this thread, if you have a couple of days to do this job, plan day 2 to start with reinstalling the pan...when your patience is recharged.

Again, thanks keeping E90 Post great!

[Prp77]

First post…recently bought a 2011 328i 6mt rwd w/78k miles, it’s from TX so none of the normal salt exposure we see in NH. I knew what I might be getting myself into with a bmw from a repair/maintenance perspective. It’s a great car, fun to drive, adequate power.

Last weekend while preemptively replacing the waterpump/thermostat I noticed quite a bit of seeping from the oil pan.

So that is the next repair on the list, along with engine mounts, at the next oil change.

Lots of great info in this thread, plus YouTube videos.

The one question I have for those that did this using jack stands, how high do I need to go?

I used a borrowed set of 4 http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html for the waterpump replacement, but those are only 13” at the lift points.

Most 3 ton jack stands will go as high as a bit more than 16”. Is that high enough?

Thanks in advance.

[jtdupont18]

This is my first post, I bought a 2008 328i with 80k miles about a year ago, and the oil pan gasket now leaking at 89k miles, is the first issue so far. I will attempt to replace the oil pan gasket myself after being quoted 2300 from the dealership and 900 from an independent mechanic. I have a couple of questions

1) Is there any issue using an engine hoist instead of a brace?

2) Some of the oil gasket replacement kits include an extra $130 in all-new bolts (ex. subframe mount bolts, suspension control arm bolts), is that necessary or can I get away with just an oil pan bolt set and reuse the original bolts?

3) Many have mentioned just replacing the engine mounts while you are down there, is that worth it at 89K miles?

Thanks in advance, any input helps. I also plan to upgrade my front sway bar while I am down there.

[335i54n]

1, yes-the hoist can move and the legs are going to be in your way trying to do the pan(i assume in driveway on your back)

2, no all bolts are not req, just oil pan bolt set

3, yes

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Prp77

First post…recently bought a 2011 328i 6mt rwd w/78k miles, it’s from TX so none of the normal salt exposure we see in NH. I knew what I might be getting myself into with a bmw from a repair/maintenance perspective. It’s a great car, fun to drive, adequate power.

Last weekend while preemptively replacing the waterpump/thermostat I noticed quite a bit of seeping from the oil pan.

So that is the next repair on the list, along with engine mounts, at the next oil change.

Lots of great info in this thread, plus YouTube videos.

The one question I have for those that did this using jack stands, how high do I need to go?

I used a borrowed set of 4 http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html for the waterpump replacement, but those are only 13” at the lift points.

Most 3 ton jack stands will go as high as a bit more than 16”. Is that high enough?

Thanks in advance.

You should be OK with standard jack stands. The subframe doesn't need much room to drop down and same for the oil pan. However, in case something is stuck on a corner somewhere, you'll be sliding in and out of there and crawl around the other side etc to find what's doing that. So, more height is nice to avoid frustration, but it's doable without it.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by jtdupont18

This is my first post, I bought a 2008 328i with 80k miles about a year ago, and the oil pan gasket now leaking at 89k miles, is the first issue so far. I will attempt to replace the oil pan gasket myself after being quoted 2300 from the dealership and 900 from an independent mechanic. I have a couple of questions

1) Is there any issue using an engine hoist instead of a brace?

2) Some of the oil gasket replacement kits include an extra $130 in all-new bolts (ex. subframe mount bolts, suspension control arm bolts), is that necessary or can I get away with just an oil pan bolt set and reuse the original bolts?

3) Many have mentioned just replacing the engine mounts while you are down there, is that worth it at 89K miles?

Thanks in advance, any input helps. I also plan to upgrade my front sway bar while I am down there.

As mentioned above, you a brace. The ones fro. Harbor Freight are cheap and work well. And yes, replace the mounts.
When you order new oil pan bolts, make sure you have the correct set. You will still likely have to order one bolt froma dealer as pretty much every kit for N52 xdrive is missing one of the longer ones.
I recommended laying out the bolts as you remove them and then compare the new ones and ensure you have all you need.

[jtdupont18]

If anyone is hesitant about doing this project themselves I would recommend you do it yourself. I am 17 and completed the project without any issues at all. Took about 16 hours between 2 days but was quoted at $2300 so I made about $140 an hour doing it myself. Just follow this forum and some youtube videos but don't bother watching any of those dorks take the whole subframe out of the car, not necessary at all.

[NjPrince]

Man you guys do a lot of work to your vehicles to get to the same place

[Bmw1939]

Completed this job on Thursday. Car is 2011, non x drive, N51 with GM transmission. Some thoughts and tips.

Have a few e12 sockets and a cordless ratchet. The most time consuming part of this job is the pan bolts. You want multiple sockets so you aren't constantly changing the socket over. The cordless ratchet will save you hours. The smaller the better. I didn't use one and paid the price for it.

Be aware of the 3 horizontal bell housing bolts in the back, the three t30s that hold the coolant hose to the front of the subframe, and the 3 10 mm brackets that hold the atf hoses to the pan.

If you can get someone to help you from above that will save time, but it isn't essential.

The job took about 8 hours with a few short breaks. Choked the back wheels and put the front jack stands up 4 clicks. Did not take off front tires.

You can complete this job. But it requires research, tools, and DESIRE.

[Pittz1]

Paid someone to do mine. Couldn't hold up garage space with the f80 sitting outside.

Paid $1800 with no parts included. Thats just labor. This included every new seal, to include axel seals.

Parts were $150 after getting my money back from FCP euro. Replaced the water pump and thermostat as well. Alignment is in that price.

[Prp77]

Start the OPG project today. 2011 E90, N52, RWD, manual transmission. Thanks to this thread, and some YouTube videos it has been very straight forward. Dare I say easier than I thought it would be.

Only surprise (and it was a good one) my car does not have a PVC breather tube as part of the pan.

I did remove the airbox which made it very easy to access the 3 coolant tube torx bolts from above. Removing the radiator fan would have provided even more room, but it was not needed.

About 5 hours in so far. Done using 4 jack stands. The pan is out.

Will complete this coming weekend. Next is to clean the block and pan mating surfaces. Run a thread chaser through the block and start putting it all back together.

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by Prp77

Start the OPG project today. 2011 E90, N52, RWD, manual transmission. Thanks to this thread, and some YouTube videos it has been very straight forward. Dare I say easier than I thought it would be.

Only surprise (and it was a good one) my car does not have a PVC breather tube as part of the pan.

I did remove the airbox which made it very easy to access the 3 coolant tube torx bolts from above. Removing the radiator fan would have provided even more room, but it was not needed.

About 5 hours in so far. Done using 4 jack stands. The pan is out.

Will complete this coming weekend. Next is to clean the block and pan mating surfaces. Run a thread chaser through the block and start putting it all back together.

Nice. A trick with those t30s that hold the coolant hose. You can reach them with a long extension from the top just like the nuts on top of the engine mounts.

[Prp77]

Finished up today. Spent almost 3 hours cleaning up the old gasket, chasing the threads in the block, and then installing the pan.

Felt like I changed extensions 100 times. And between torque wrench and ratchet. It would have saved time if I had 2 E12 sockets.

Also replaced motor and transmission mounts.

Other than the length of time spent it was not a very difficult job. Plenty of room to work with subframe dropped.

Thanks to all that provided guidance here and on YouTube.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by POBEP

I read the entire thread and want to say thank you all.

Mine OPG is leaking beyond my comfort level now.
For this project I will pass on DIY as:
1) my home mechanic execution time will considerably exceed my professional hourly rate when compared to paying 8-10h of trusted professional car shop labor + lost drop off and pickup trips time
2) there will be additional time spent cleaning oily mess everywhere

My 2009 E91 (N52KP) has been garaged in San Francisco its entire life (13y/104,000mi)
There is no signs of rust anywhere.

I know this question was asked before, however will ask it again in 2022:

Should I have my mechanic replace:
- plastic oil return line
- oil level sensor seal
- engine mounts (there is no vibration of any kind)
- WP/thermostat (running on factory ones, no fan spinning or WP codes)
- anything else?

I finally took it to the shop on its 14th birthday, after 6 years of cardboard pad on my driveway.
My INDY took subframe completely out, replaced right engine mount and oil level sensor seal and washed/cleaned everything.

Final cost was $1,750 (out of $2,550 of all lifetime repairs), uh.

[owdi]

I'm halfway into this repair and have a problem, hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

When I pulled the old gasket off the oil pan it was a bit of a disaster. Parts of the gasket pulled away chunks of black paint from the oil pan, while other parts disintegrated leaving behind hard bits that I can only chip off with a knife. The surface is really rough right now.

Should I sand and paint the parts of the oil pan where the gasket goes?

I've searched a bunch and found no posts about people painting their oil pans, so hopefully I don't need to do this.

Car is a 2010 328i RWD MT with N51

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by owdi

I'm halfway into this repair and have a problem, hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

When I pulled the old gasket off the oil pan it was a bit of a disaster. Parts of the gasket pulled away chunks of black paint from the oil pan, while other parts disintegrated leaving behind hard bits that I can only chip off with a knife. The surface is really rough right now.

Should I sand and paint the parts of the oil pan where the gasket goes?

I've searched a bunch and found no posts about people painting their oil pans, so hopefully I don't need to do this.

Car is a 2010 328i RWD MT with N51

If it is really rough sand it a bit. Just use RTV gasket maker combined with the new gasket.

[owdi]

Thanks @Efthreeoh, I've read your other posts on using RTV, will go that route.

Here's a few pics of what the oil pan rim looks like.

There was one spot where the gasket was super hard but it easily came away from the oil pan, and there was oil between the gasket and pan, so that must have been where it was leaking. You can see it in the second pic, by the round tab thing, where there is no damage to the paint.

[owdi]

Well boys I messed something up because she's leaking fresh oil after a short drive around the block. Leaking a lot, left a nice puddle of oil after idling for a bit after the drive.

I don't even want to look where it's leaking from right now. This really sucks. Thinking about what I did wrong, there are 3 things that stick out:

1. I used an old, but unopened, tube of Pro Seal Black RTV. I practiced a bit and just found the practice beads still have not cured after 2 days.

2. The oil pan surface is too messed up after scraping the old gasket off and I didn't have enough RTV to fill in all the gaps. I did use a very small amount, about a 3mm bead just behind the 3rd rubber bead.

3. I was so afraid of snapping an oil pan bolt that I only torqued them to 8 Nm + 60* instead of the full 8 Nm + 90*

EDIT: I'm an idiot, I should have looked. I rushed at the end and didn't install the new oil filter cap seal properly, causing part of the seal to press out, which then squirted oil all over the engine. At least it's an easy fix.

[Red69]

Depending on the mileage… water pump and thermostat…. Very easy to get at this point!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by owdi

Well boys I messed something up because she's leaking fresh oil after a short drive around the block. Leaking a lot, left a nice puddle of oil after idling for a bit after the drive.

I don't even want to look where it's leaking from right now. This really sucks. Thinking about what I did wrong, there are 3 things that stick out:

1. I used an old, but unopened, tube of Pro Seal Black RTV. I practiced a bit and just found the practice beads still have not cured after 2 days.

2. The oil pan surface is too messed up after scraping the old gasket off and I didn't have enough RTV to fill in all the gaps. I did use a very small amount, about a 3mm bead just behind the 3rd rubber bead.

3. I was so afraid of snapping an oil pan bolt that I only torqued them to 8 Nm + 60* instead of the full 8 Nm + 90*

EDIT: I'm an idiot, I should have looked. I rushed at the end and didn't install the new oil filter cap seal properly, causing part of the seal to press out, which then squirted oil all over the engine. At least it's an easy fix.

Good to hear that it was something simple!! 😊

[cbrider73]

Reviving because I just helped my son with his 2011 328i N52 with GM 6AT. Everyone has covered most things over the years, but I have a couple of tips to add.

-Lower the subframe about 3-4" to get to the three T30 fasteners that hold the coolant pipe across the front of the subframe. It gets the PS pump and other junk just enough out of the way to get your hand and tool up there.

-We ended up pulling the trans cooler lines from the trans as well as the two other brackets. That made getting to the driver's side pan bolts much easier. Just zip tied them to the fuel lines to keep them out of the way.

-Left everything else attached to the subframe including the wheels. The struts kept it at a height that we could worm around under it without needing a jack to hold the subframe up up. Doing this required one of us to rock the subframe from front to back while the other weaseled the pan out.

-Doing motor mounts? Take off the driver's side and leave it off until you are done with the pan. It will give you a better shot with your 2' worth of extensions.

-Had one sheared off VANOS system aluminum bolt head. There is a recall on these and the car will go into the dealer for VANOS bolt replacement along with at least one actuator according to the recall information. Get a new valve cover gasket out of the deal, but we had already replaced it last year.

-Did not use any sealant on the gasket and all is well. Doing it again I would use some anaerobic gasket maker. Just a skim coat.

I am DDing a 2009 328i N52 6MT that I bought with 40,000 miles. It just hit 157,000 and the pan is still dry. It's just a matter of time. I feel like I will be able to do it in half the time when that time inevitably comes. Took us about 10 hours including couple of trips to go get more brake cleaner and a wobble extension. I was using a regular u-joint with some electrical tape that was working OK, but the wobbler was a good choice.

To those saying they could do it but "my billable time is worth more than me doing it" - I make more than most shop billing rates. The failed calculations of these people is that unless you are working every waking hour, then you do have spare time. The last I checked I wasn't getting paid for my spare time. I could have afforded to have a shop do it, but I don't trust shops. They absolutely would not be as meticulous as we were. They would not have taken their time in looking everything over or cleaned everything like we did. My son gained a very valuable learning experience. I got to spend 10 hours cussing out an old BMW with my son. He also learned that his Dad still pops off in the garage, even though I have been working on my own cars since the year 1990. Some of us enjoy the struggle/suffering/frustration/reward.

This is not a hard job. Just time consuming. Don't be afraid. Spend that $1,000-$2,000 shop fee on more parts because you are going to need them...