[quigger]

Hi Guys,

I think this might be my first post so please bare with me.

I have an e91 320d with central unlocking issues.
I've read quite a few other posts but none seem to be my exact issue.

I suspect wiring loom problems (in the boot hinge area) and will investigate.

However, here's my issue:
I can remote unlock the car but the boot doesn't unlock, neither the boot or the hatch will open (and it always used to with the car unlocked).
The hatch can also pop open on it's own though. Normally when I get out of the car (driver door opening) but it can happen anytime.

I can remote unlock and lock the doors of the car fine.
I can bring the windows down and up by holding the button unlock or lock button.
The rear wiper works fine.
The boot interior lights do not stay on.

The issue is just the boot (or the hatch window) will not open on UN-locking the car.

I can press and hold the boot button on the remote to 'pop' the boot but I can never get the boot to open by it's soft rubber button on boot rear or the window hatch button to work via it's button (by the wiper).

I'm in the UK and we don't have the override switch in the glove box.

Any suggestions most welcome. THANKS.

Cheers,
Jason.
Bristol, UK

[Tambohamilton]

Hi Jason,

Most likely your wiring is breaking up at the hinge. Definitely the first thing to check. You can repair the wires at the break, but that's not likely to last very long. Or you can splice in new wires/a repair loom. Repair looms are annoyingly expensive, but then so is decent quality silicone-insulated wire.... I got my repair loom from autodoc. There are a few brands available.

It's a pain of a job, because you need to drop the rear portion of the headliner, which involves a LOT of faffing with trim in the boot. I'll be doing mine over the Xmas 'break', using this diy video:

Alternatively, your tailgate switch could be dead...but I'd check the wires first.

Good luck with it!

Tam
Trowbridge, UK

[quigger]

I had a bit more of a play quickly this morning.
I took the window glass hatch switch out to check for continuity. However, the boot works fine with the switch disconnected but not when connected.
It seems to be permanently switched on but multi-meter doesn't confirm, very odd.
Tempted to buy a new one?

[Tambohamilton]

That's interesting...hmm, I don't know what to recommend then. Did you measure resistance across the glass switch, when pressed and released?

[quigger]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

That's interesting...hmm, I don't know what to recommend then. Did you measure resistance across the glass switch, when pressed and released?

Yes, open circuit when not pressed.
And about 200 ohms when pressed (hard).

However, I could only get 200 ohms with the switch taken apart and actually pressing hard on the ribbon circuit (as shown in this nicked photo):

[quigger]

Note:
My ribbon cable "switch" looked dirtier (corroded?) than that one above!

[quigger]

This doesn't look healthy...

Link:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...BrMEdYb2x0el9B

Image:

[Tambohamilton]

Sounds functional (when disassembled), and surely shouldn't be causing any issues unless you're trying to use it... Though I guess replacing it might be the first thing to do, since it's not working right. Sorry I'm not any more use...

[quigger]

No, it doesn't work either way, assembled or disassembled. It seems to be shorted but isn't according to multimeter.

As you say - it doesn't cause any major harm if not using it except that I found...

...I can remote unlock the car but the boot doesn't unlock, neither the boot or the hatch will open (and it always used to with the car unlocked).
The hatch can also pop open on it's own though. Normally when I get out of the car (driver door opening) but it can happen anytime.

The boot works fine with the dodgy switch disconnected.
I just hope a new switch would work fine?

[Tambohamilton]

Did you check the wires at the hinge already?

[quigger]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Did you check the wires at the hinge already?

I've had the spoiler off and the hinge grommets/rubber protection slightly off to inspect and couldn't find any issues. I would have to strip them further to be 100% certain there wasn't another issue in there though.

[Tambohamilton]

Fair enough. Seems strange to me that removing the glass switch would fix the tailgate...but stranger things have happened! I guess if the glass switch is dodgy anyhow, there's no harm in replacing it

[quigger]

Just an update... I've swapped the switch for a new item.
Everything seems well so far. Only been 10 minutes though.

I've pasted below a selection of links that I read and it helped me. Just in case anyone else comes across the same issue.

These two were nice to read:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1367182
https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/75836...-opens/?page=2 (see pink E comment)

Here's the full list:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tlputs/hasjYCp
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1574196
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600085
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=14
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=767262
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1198679
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1367182

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1255298
https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/75836...-opens/?page=2
https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/11640...-popping-open/
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=687880

[Tambohamilton]

Nice one. Thanks for all the links!

[Scoobydo Stu]

I had the same problem this week with my 318i (8 years old)
The fault issues were the boot would not open, the rear passenger fog light bulb was shown as faulty and the inspection light was displayed on the dashboard.
I took it to my local garage where they were unable to open the boot from the outside. They had to resort to taking out the back seats and the rear dividing wall climb into the boot space to open the boot lid. The electrical engineer discovered the rubber sleeve carrying the wires into the boot lid was intact but the majority of the wires in the loom to be broken, he had to splice in new wires to resolve the issue. This appears to have resolved the issue but it took nearly 4 hours @ £50/hr.

[itsmepht]

I have similar problems, but not the same so will post on a new thread, if I can.
Glad this one was sorted out; what a fantastic resource this is!