[activereality]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Are you talking about the plastic, cylinder shaped connection that has 4 pins from the camera?

You could connect there. Or just cut that wire and install a connector to reconnect the wires. Another solution might be to solder it, if you have those skills - really good way to get things to 'stay' connected.

[kegwalker]

For those that have purchased the dynavin, what happens on a lci car (2011) with the gongs (doors, seatbelts, tpms, temperature, etc)? Can these be turned off?

Also, OP, you bought this from top gear solutions? I looked on their website and didn't see it listed. And do you have the link for the I drive cubby usb3 that you purchased?

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this. It will be nice to have a little more modern looking system.

Thanks for the help, this thread has been awesome!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by activereality

You could connect there. Or just cut that wire and install a connector to reconnect the wires. Another solution might be to solder it, if you have those skills - really good way to get things to 'stay' connected.

Ok. So, I was re-checking the connections AGAIN 🤬.

I put the parking brake on, car off & pushed the start button twice but didn't start the car. Put it in reverse & the reverse camera worked. Opened the truck. Shut the trunk like 5 times just to see if the loose connector was in that area some how's NOPE 🤬

The camera stayed on all the whole time....

I'm thinking the engine is projecting interference and I have to get one of those gadgets that prevents that.

I do have a HEAVY duty 40v, waterproof relay on the camera. So, no issues there.

The damn thing is hooked up correctly or I wouldn't be getting video in reverse!

Ugh... I hate electrical issues. 🤬

My initial install was easy. I mean I totally gutted my logic 7 system completely.

[activereality]

Originally Posted by kegwalker

For those that have purchased the dynavin, what happens on a lci car (2011) with the gongs (doors, seatbelts, tpms, temperature, etc)? Can these be turned off?

Also, OP, you bought this from top gear solutions? I looked on their website and didn't see it listed. And do you have the link for the I drive cubby usb3 that you purchased?

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on this. It will be nice to have a little more modern looking system.

Thanks for the help, this thread has been awesome!

Nope, purchased from J&T (https://www.jandtdistributing.com/co...19318129197113).

I do not have IDrive, so did not purchase the little 'tray' for the center console and have not changed anything in it.

However, bryanp, did say he installed a USB extension into his tray and is liking it so far. I have a blank (blind) plate coming in. this will replace the existing USB/aux plate in my armrest, I'll be installing 2 USB extensions into it to get that functionality in there. The goal is just to make it look somewhat stock-ish.

[kegwalker]

Ah, thanks. Not sure how I messed that one up.
Cheers

[jeffb335]

Originally Posted by kegwalker

For those that have purchased the dynavin, what happens on a lci car (2011) with the gongs (doors, seatbelts, tpms, temperature, etc)? Can these be turned off?

On the later cars where the gong/chimes/etc... are created by the stereo, the dynavin creates these now instead, and yes it can be turned down or off.

[iqraceworks]

Tag to read later!!

[activereality]

Originally Posted by kegwalker

Ah, thanks. Not sure how I messed that one up.
Cheers

No worries. Lots of creative back and forth. Some great solutions and steps on here so far and loving it!

For the sounds, as Jeff said, since that is part of the base system, and the N7 is now connected to your system, all sounds will still come from your vehicle. There is pretty good customization of the volume of these items as well.

[activereality]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Ok. So, I was re-checking the connections AGAIN 🤬.

I put the parking brake on, car off & pushed the start button twice but didn't start the car. Put it in reverse & the reverse camera worked. Opened the truck. Shut the trunk like 5 times just to see if the loose connector was in that area some how's NOPE 🤬

The camera stayed on all the whole time....

I'm thinking the engine is projecting interference and I have to get one of those gadgets that prevents that.

I do have a HEAVY duty 40v, waterproof relay on the camera. So, no issues there.

The damn thing is hooked up correctly or I wouldn't be getting video in reverse!

Ugh... I hate electrical issues. 🤬

My initial install was easy. I mean I totally gutted my logic 7 system completely.

Hey there! Any luck with this? No clue how I missed this response - my bad on that.

To make sure I am understanding:
When the vehicle is running and you put it in reverse, what happens?
1. The Camera comes on and it is clear and HD? (all is well, get a beer and relax)
2. The camera comes on but it is fuzzy and sometimes intermittent (this would probably be remedied with a noise isolator of some sort - or could be caused from bad crimps - like a crimp on the jacket or insulation of a wire)
3. the camera does not come on at all in reverse, but does come on when you select camera from the N7 Menu?

Sorry, wanting to make sure I understand the discrepancy before going too much into Troubleshooting

[activereality]

Two week update: man this thing is killing it! The N7 has really surprised me at usability and what it can do. The on-board navigation application is very very robust! It has several very nice features that make it stand out!

I am still loving the responsiveness of the screen as well, light taps or swipes make navigating the menus (N7 or Carplay) and ease. The full integration into the vehicle makes it easy to see what is going on, for wondering type, with several different vehicle measurements and current gas data - yeah, maybe not needed, but pretty cool, and I like knowing that the interface is 'friendly' to the vehicle systems.

Another thing I am really loving is the Sound quality and the ability to tweak via EQ within the N7. I can listen to audiobooks, without too much bass, and then set it up to roll on the highway to some 'rocking tunes!' (anyone say that anymore?).

All in all, I am super happy with this unit and the support received.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by activereality

Hey there! Any luck with this? No clue how I missed this response - my bad on that.

To make sure I am understanding:
When the vehicle is running and you put it in reverse, what happens?
1. The Camera comes on and it is clear and HD? (all is well, get a beer and relax)
2. The camera comes on but it is fuzzy and sometimes intermittent (this would probably be remedied with a noise isolator of some sort - or could be caused from bad crimps - like a crimp on the jacket or insulation of a wire)
3. the camera does not come on at all in reverse, but does come on when you select camera from the N7 Menu?

Sorry, wanting to make sure I understand the discrepancy before going too much into Troubleshooting

Car running put in reverse, black screen with grid lines.

I have the car off trunk popped & put in reverse the camera works & is crystal clear.

I bought

Dasaita 12V DC Power Relay Capacitor Filter Rectifiers for Car Rear View Back Up Camera -Aftermarket Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P35T3M..._.BnmEbBXGMNVF

I haven't installed it yet.

[activereality]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Car running put in reverse, black screen with grid lines.

I have the car off trunk popped & put in reverse the camera works & is crystal clear.

I bought

Dasaita 12V DC Power Relay Capacitor Filter Rectifiers for Car Rear View Back Up Camera -Aftermarket Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P35T3M..._.BnmEbBXGMNVF

I haven't installed it yet.

Good deal. Keep us posted. yeah, just sounds like you are getting some noise. Pretty common with electrical circuits.

Did you say you were using a relay as well? Is it in the trunk or somewhere else?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by activereality

Good deal. Keep us posted. yeah, just sounds like you are getting some noise. Pretty common with electrical circuits.

Did you say you were using a relay as well? Is it in the trunk or somewhere else?

Yes, I have a heavy duty 40v, water proof relay in the trunk.

[jeffb335]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Yes, I have a heavy duty 40v, water proof relay in the trunk.

Since it only happens when the car is running it is definitely electrical noise in your camera feed.

Your issue is likely related to the relay, or how you have it wired, as your description of the camera problem sounds exactly like what happens if you have a noisy reverse light circuit and no relay. Double check your wiring and look again at how a relay works to be sure you wired it up correctly. Remember that the point is to power the camera direct off the battery, via the relay, and switch the relay on and off with the reverse light circuit.

OR perhaps your camera video signal is in close proximity to the battery cable? If you have a noisy alternator there is going to be EMF around the battery cable.

To troubleshoot, take the relay out of the equation and temporarily power the camera directly off the battery to see what happens.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by jeffb335

Since it only happens when the car is running it is definitely electrical noise in your camera feed.

Your issue is likely related to the relay, or how you have it wired, as your description of the camera problem sounds exactly like what happens if you have a noisy reverse light circuit and no relay. Double check your wiring and look again at how a relay works to be sure you wired it up correctly. Remember that the point is to power the camera direct off the battery, via the relay, and switch the relay on and off with the reverse light circuit.

OR perhaps your camera video signal is in close proximity to the battery cable? If you have a noisy alternator there is going to be EMF around the battery cable.

To troubleshoot, take the relay out of the equation and temporarily power the camera directly off the battery to see what happens.

Would power cables coming from an amp carry noise?

The alternator is original w/ 172,000 miles and counting. I did put new a regulator in 3-4 months ago.

[jeffb335]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Would power cables coming from an amp carry noise?

The alternator is original w/ 172,000 miles and counting. I did put new a regulator in 3-4 months ago.

Yes, any large gauge wire is going to have a good sized field around it that can be the source of noise.

[runnr548]

Very interesting...hmmm...

[bryanp]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

So, the pins aren't contacting properly?

My issue had nothing to do with the connections I made. They're all well crimped with a crimp tool. My issue was my particular camera has a hard black plastic piece in its wiring harness. It's on the end of the the camera's wire run that comes from the front of the car and thus needs to be run through the trunk to the trunk lid and through one of the few holes in the sheeting. It's where the leads that connect to the brake line splice (or your relay) splice in to the power lead that runs to the head unit. There's a plug on the end of this plastic piece that the camera's lead plugs in to.

Unless you bought the same camera I did, you'll likely not have the issue. It's about an inch long and required nudging to get through the trunk lid which apparently shorted it.

Sorry for the confusion.

[bryanp]

A couple weeks in, and I'm still happy. There are a few minor software bugs that will hopefully be resolved with future firmware, but nothing that gets in the way of using the system. It sounds good, is responsive, looks like it came with the car and is easy to use.

Here are a few pictures of things I did:

This is the USB connector in the console tray. There's enough clearance behind for two. Note that you cannot insert/remove the console with the USB connectors inserted all the way. I clipped the retention clips on the back off. Pressure fit with a 3/4 inch hole is snug and secure. I used the flush mount kit from JandT.

The plug:


Wire routing underneath (the retention clip was not removed yet):


The USB cable snaked up and in to where the head unit wiring is:


This is where I put the mic:


Here is my camera wiring in to the trunk. I had a power lead from the battery, a trigger lead from the 12v out on the N7 and the camera's harness.

Wires zip tied to the car's bundle:


Final state with silicon caulk and cable sleeve:


And the installed N7 with heated seat controls re-located:

[activereality]

Originally Posted by bryanp

A couple weeks in, and I'm still happy. There are a few minor software bugs that will hopefully be resolved with future firmware, but nothing that gets in the way of using the system. It sounds good, is responsive, looks like it came with the car and is easy to use.

Here are a few pictures of things I did:

This is the USB connector in the console tray. There's enough clearance behind for two. Note that you cannot insert/remove the console with the USB connectors inserted all the way. I clipped the retention clips on the back off. Pressure fit with a 3/4 inch hole is snug and secure. I used the flush mount kit from JandT.

The plug:


Wire routing underneath (the retention clip was not removed yet):


The USB cable snaked up and in to where the head unit wiring is:


This is where I put the mic:


Here is my camera wiring in to the trunk. I had a power lead from the battery, a trigger lead from the 12v out on the N7 and the camera's harness.

Wires zip tied to the car's bundle:


Final state with silicon caulk and cable sleeve:


And the installed N7 with heated seat controls re-located:

Looks great! Isn’t it funny how the most intricate parts of these installs are always the areas we deviate from or add to the base items? Haha!

Also, I seem to have an entirely different mic than you do.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by activereality

Good deal. Keep us posted. yeah, just sounds like you are getting some noise. Pretty common with electrical circuits.

Did you say you were using a relay as well? Is it in the trunk or somewhere else?

Finally got around to installing the power, relay capacitor filter. Worked like a charm.

The relay, camera, etc were all hooked up correctly to begin with. The camera would come once in a while.

This little deal did the trick!


Dasaita 12V DC Power Relay Capacitor Filter Rectifiers for Car Rear View Back Up Camera -Aftermarket Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P35T3M..._WWTsEbSMDVRPQ

[activereality]

Originally Posted by activereality

Also, I seem to have an entirely different mic than you do.

You are right, I have a much different mic. No clue what is up with that. I don't get a lot of road noise on mine/it works pretty well.

How does your work?