[HeyTeeee]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

I just got this tool in and tried to use it over the weekend. Any advice as to how to use it without slipping? I feel like i'm potentially not using it right as I can't apply too much torque without it popping off the ring.

Or this
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f2lK4_Kl2zw

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by HeyTeeee

Or this

Thanks, I appreciate it!

That being said, I must admit I am an idiot. This whole time I thought the issue was that the rings were not tight enough. Nope, on the passenger side I neglected to attach that small vent tube to the top of the tank. It slipped underneath so it was out of sight and I didn't think there was anything else to plug in. Its been a week now since plugging it in and no codes, so I got that going for me.

[MyCar]

Hi All, I need help figuring out if my HPFP is going bad.

When it is super cold outside, I will experience rough idle, the car will stall and the throw a Half Yellow Engine Malfunction Warning.

Strange part is when the weather outside warms up a bit, car acts normal. However, now I do notice that the car feels sluggish. For example if I give it gas, even if I floor it, the tachometer will slowly go up to about 4K. It's as if I'm not even flooring it, and just slowly accelerating.

Is this my HPFP going bad?

I was able to pull the following codes
Error Code 2BEE
0x2BEE High-pressure fuel system, cold start: Pressure too low
Possible fault causes:
-Tank Empty
-Defective rail-pressure sensor
-Defect in low-pressure system
-High-pressure pump defective

Error Code 2C01
0x2C01 High-pressure fuel system, fuel pressure: Minimum pressure undershot
Possible fault causes:
-Fuel tank empty
-Obstruction in fuel filter
-Fuel pump defective
-Defective rail-pressure sensor
-High-pressure pump defective

Error Code 3876
0x3876 Power management: Central Under-voltage

[Supermoon]

All N54/55 needs hpfp replacement at least once in their lifetime. Just go ahead and replace it if it's from the factory, especially if the codes are that obvious.

[TunafishE93]

I would let it warm up before replacing stuff for no reason.. I keep saying these cars act weird when they are cold.. I don't run mine under 10F because of this.. You first fault could be causing your other problems "under voltage".. When things get cold (oil/fluids) it takes more current to move.. Batteries have less current when cold.. So you have less current available and require more current when cold.. You see where we are going with this..

I going to speculate and say both of those fuel errors are at start up when there might not be enough current for the fuel pump at that moment..

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

Dont mind the Spiderman/Hulk Bandaid

Sir I am in fact jealous of your Spiderman/Hulk bandaid.

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

I would let it warm up before replacing stuff for no reason.. I keep saying these cars act weird when they are cold.. I don't run mine under 10F because of this.. You first fault could be causing your other problems "under voltage".. When things get cold (oil/fluids) it takes more current to move.. Batteries have less current when cold.. So you have less current available and require more current when cold.. You see where we are going with this..

I going to speculate and say both of those fuel errors are at start up when there might not be enough current for the fuel pump at that moment..

It might pop a code on startup but when the car is running the alternator should take over supplying power. So if he clears code and take them at that point it should eliminate that factor if it is truly linked to batteries.

Or maybe the startup is critical to build that initial pressure and maintain it. So you could try starting your car by having it hooked up to another car or battery charger/suplier.

Here in Canadian weather at -25 Celcius when my battery was begining to fail, the rail pressure was always ok as if it priorized by power delivery system. OP do you have a "Increased Battery Discharge" message if you have iDrive?

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

I would let it warm up before replacing stuff for no reason.. I keep saying these cars act weird when they are cold.. I don't run mine under 10F because of this.. You first fault could be causing your other problems "under voltage".. When things get cold (oil/fluids) it takes more current to move.. Batteries have less current when cold.. So you have less current available and require more current when cold.. You see where we are going with this..

I going to speculate and say both of those fuel errors are at start up when there might not be enough current for the fuel pump at that moment..

I think the current code might be old from this summer when my battery was dying. I have since purchased a new and larger H8 battery.

Regarding the temperature, I have determined it is definitely weather related. When it's cold outside it acts up, such as late into the night. When it's warm out, car pretty much acts normal.

I would hate to replace the HPFP if that isn't the issue, or if the new one behaves the same way in cold.

Could it be anything else like the sensor, or is all evidence pointing to HPFP?

[TunafishE93]

What are your current active codes?

[DiFFv1]

Bringing this back alive. Even after replacing the regulator and upgrading the LPFP i still get codes like above every so often. Hell ive even installed a relay to the LPFP and still got the same codes lol. I just think the fuel management system lacks and the DME is responding

[ofc.mendozza]

Originally Posted by Kevin39

I'm going to be doing this soon as well. I've had the same 2BDE and 2BF0 shadow codes for a little while but it's not been a problem yet so I've been putting it off. Now I've got some valvetronic issues going on as well so it's time for some maintenance work.

Hey Boss, we’re you able to fix the issue with this codes?