[chazzz]

I have a 2008 BMW 328i with approx 146,000 miles. The rear tires are wearing-out on the inside. I believe that all of suspension components are all original (never replace since it was a new car).

Obviously, I'll have to replace rear shock absorbers. What other parts should I replace - like long arms? trailing something?

Once the parts are replaced, I will get a new set of tires and four wheel alignment. A regular alignment shop should fix the rear camber links to prevent rear tire wear, correct?

The tires on my 328i are not staggered (all of them are in same size, these tires can be rotated).

It was my son's car (21 years old). I bought this car for him about 4 years ago at 100k miles. Recently, I bought him a 2018 Dodge Charger, so I am keeping the 328i as a "beater car".

Anyway, I need to know which part should I replace (rear suspension only). I did all of the work in the front suspension (all new parts).

thanks -chazzz

[Mizkizaa]

Originally Posted by chazzz

I have a 2008 BMW 328i with approx 146,000 miles. The rear tires are wearing-out on the inside. I believe that all of suspension components are all original (never replace since it was a new car).

Obviously, I'll have to replace rear shock absorbers. What other parts should I replace - like long arms? trailing something?

Once the parts are replaced, I will get a new set of tires and four wheel alignment. A regular alignment shop should fix the rear camber links to prevent rear tire wear, correct?

The tires on my 328i are not staggered (all of them are in same size, these tires can be rotated).

It was my son's car (21 years old). I bought this car for him about 4 years ago at 100k miles. Recently, I bought him a 2018 Dodge Charger, so I am keeping the 328i as a "beater car".

Anyway, I need to know which part should I replace (rear suspension only). I did all of the work in the front suspension (all new parts).

thanks -chazzz

You will always get rear inside tire wear on BMWs, they have an insane amount of camber from the factory on purpose to prevent over steer. That being said, new control arms and trailing arms wouldn't hurt. The last alignment I had my rears were at -1.8 degrees and I took them down to -1.5, which is more reasonable. I believe the best they can do within spec is -1.3, but maybe its worth it to ask the shop if they can get it closer to that range instead of the other end to help out with your tire wear. I'm sure you know because of the front suspension job, but make sure you torque the bolts at ride height, I suggest measuring while the car is still on the ground (ask me how I know. Lol).

[JazzMan2001]

Same as above, I had the alignment place take as much camber out as they could within spec - it still wears the insides first but it's better now that it was.

Can you bozos please stop perpetuating the myth that factory camber range is capable of providing "insane" amounts of camber...if your camber settings start with a '1' you are no where near the threshold of achieving noticeable camber wear.

Inside tire wear will, 99% of the time, be caused by excessive toe-out. If you want to stop killing tires, get your toe settings in order and leave the alignment conspiracy theories to cornball FB groups, etc.

[neilvan]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Can you bozos please stop perpetuating the myth that factory camber range is capable of providing "insane" amounts of camber...if your camber settings start with a '1' you are no where near the threshold of achieving noticeable camber wear.

1000% this ^^ I have cars with mid 2* neg camber and 1 with 3.5* of camber in the front. I can go through a whole set of tires without seeing camber wear on it; toe is set up properly of course.

That being said I do drive hard and make use of it; your 90yo grandma you might get better wear from a touch less that 3.something