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      05-16-2023, 12:49 PM   #23
TyroneShoelaces
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�� How is that crazy? I know plenty of married men that put themselves into “crazy” situations. One brother-in-law is a cop with just one family car. The other BIL is great with cars but is deep in repairing BOTH of their cars at the moment after buying a old car on impulse. I’ve known plenty of families relying on just one car. I’ve had a backup car and plan to get another after I’ve gotten this one up-to-date.

I’m not a doordasher or poor. I don’t see how trying to save thousands of dollars makes one poor. I could end up saving well over 5% of my income doing this work myself. I’m a geneticist back in school for a third degree. One kid. I don’t do social media.

I see that you’re having fun with my post ��
I am just kidding around, please don't take offense or too seriously. Honestly the only time my N54 powered car has left me stranded has been when it blew a sidewall on the highway....but I've replaced all the failure points when I pulled the motor during my swap. It's my fun daily and modded so I expect issues.
The bulk of the N54 reliability problems beyond waterpumps and oil leaks are self induced so we're all in this mess of our own doing.

Last edited by TyroneShoelaces; 05-16-2023 at 12:58 PM..
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      05-16-2023, 05:09 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TyroneShoelaces View Post
I am just kidding around, please don't take offense or too seriously. Honestly the only time my N54 powered car has left me stranded has been when it blew a sidewall on the highway....but I've replaced all the failure points when I pulled the motor during my swap. It's my fun daily and modded so I expect issues.
The bulk of the N54 reliability problems beyond waterpumps and oil leaks are self induced so we're all in this mess of our own doing.
You are totally fine! I’ve gotten so much flak about driving it that I won’t even even tell people what I drive anymore. I’m going to make this reliable and get it up-to-date.

I do wish I would have learned more about it right after I bought it instead of relying on mechanics that don’t typically work on foreign cars and could have prevented some issues.
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      05-16-2023, 05:15 PM   #25
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I've burned myself one too many times getting in over my head :P I've learned that I can DIY a lot of things, but some things really need the expertise and proper tools of a mechanic to deal with. I used to hate admitting defeat, but instead I look at it as learning my own limitations.
For sure, I’ve watched many videos of replacing the front crankshaft seal and realized that doing that is beyond me right now.

I ordered the tool for replacing it and have the part/materials, I really wanted to do this all myself but I’m paying someone to come out that’s done it before. I’ll watch them and learn.
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      05-16-2023, 08:10 PM   #26
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Keep your head up and ignore the peanut gallery! I usually run spark plugs for 100k. I would wait until it causes a running problem. Then you have to see if it will come out. Who knows when that will be. Motor on!

Last edited by bmwbob89; 05-16-2023 at 08:20 PM..
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      05-16-2023, 09:29 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
Keep your head up and ignore the peanut gallery! I usually run spark plugs for 100k. I would wait until it causes a running problem. Then you have to see if it will come out. Who knows when that will be. Motor on!
I swap out plugs at ~100k miles on every other car I've owned. On my N54 a set of Bosch plugs haven't lasted much over 30k miles even with just a mild OTS tune. Brand new plugs were toast within 5k miles after the latest upgrades. Car is running amazing right now after switching to NGK. We'll see how long they last but 100k miles is a pipe dream for a N54 from my experience.
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      05-16-2023, 10:04 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
Keep your head up and ignore the peanut gallery! I usually run spark plugs for 100k. I would wait until it causes a running problem. Then you have to see if it will come out. Who knows when that will be. Motor on!
Hey peanut gallery contributor: the factory spec of the N54 calls for 45k.
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      05-17-2023, 04:28 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Inquisitive View Post
For sure, I’ve watched many videos of replacing the front crankshaft seal and realized that doing that is beyond me right now.

I ordered the tool for replacing it and have the part/materials, I really wanted to do this all myself but I’m paying someone to come out that’s done it before. I’ll watch them and learn.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it, but how have you verified none of the serpentine belt did not get past the crank seal and into the oil sump? And the person coming to replace the seal, have he/she done such work on the N54 previously? I hope from watching the vids that you know the crank hub pulley bolt does not get removed to remove the harmonic balancer. The harmonic balancer is held to the crank hub via six bolts. The hub is not indexed to the crank, so loosening and removing the crank hub bolt releases the clamping force on the crank gear that drives the cam chain, which risks upsetting the timing between the crankshaft and camshafts. The six bolts can be a PIA to remove without the proper tools to hold the crankshaft stationary. I found the easiest method is to use an air impact butterfly wrench.

Back to the spark plug. That has me now concerned because if the engine was serviced properly, at 150,000 miles, the plugs you just replaced should have been at a minimum the 3rd set and only in the head for the last 60,000 miles. As I stated earlier, there should be no reason the plug is stuck in the head other than it was improperly installed and is crossthreaded in the head. Just be prepared to need a thread coil insert once the plug is out, or a new cylinderhead will be necessary as a worse case. Usually a professional mechanic will want to remove the cylinderhead to repair the sparkplug hole thread. Definately take the car to a German auto shop that can repair the head with a thread-coil insert. Ask them up front about their ability to remove the plug and repair the thread in the sparkplug hole. A stuck sparkplug is not a good situation.

Good luck with everything. The lesson here is only let professional BMW trained mechanics work on a BMW. Non BMW mechanic will FUBAR a BMW in a heartbeat and charge you for it.
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      05-17-2023, 06:29 AM   #30
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I might have missed it but you said it has a leaking front main seal? That primarily happens when the engine eats the belt..i would be way more concerned about the engine being filled with rubber than one spark plug.
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      05-17-2023, 07:23 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
Keep your head up and ignore the peanut gallery! I usually run spark plugs for 100k. I would wait until it causes a running problem. Then you have to see if it will come out. Who knows when that will be. Motor on!
Thanks Bob!
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      05-17-2023, 07:57 PM   #32
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I don’t understand why you want to change the alternator and radiator. Change what is needed and nothing more

If a skilled mechanic can’t get the plug out with moderate force, and you have no miss fires leave well enough alone. The n54 can be a money pit, if you like a reliable bmw get one with the n52, or if you want more power n55. Best of luck !
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      05-18-2023, 02:12 AM   #33
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Yes, an N54!

Super dangerous! Thankfully, this oil explosion happened the day before my last college exam. I did have a second car for backup, but I ended up having to scrap it over a year ago. My plan was to get this car paid off and up-to-date and then buy a van to fix up. My daughter is obsessed with those van life stories and I thought it would be a good backup car too. I honestly didn’t know much about cars until my divorce, he did everything. I’m learning. Other than the stressful parts and aching hands/injuries, this is kind of fun.

My mom has been letting me drive her spare car to work. I’ve been having to stay with her because my apartment complex doesn’t allow tenants to work on their cars in the parking lot.
I applaud you. It’s an uphill battle, but you’re digging in. Good for you!
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      05-18-2023, 08:40 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by mecheng77 View Post
I don’t understand why you want to change the alternator and radiator. Change what is needed and nothing more

If a skilled mechanic can’t get the plug out with moderate force, and you have no miss fires leave well enough alone. The n54 can be a money pit, if you like a reliable bmw get one with the n52, or if you want more power n55. Best of luck !
The alternator was coated in oil. I tried to remove it all, but everyone I’ve talked to said it’s likely done for. What do you think? When I pulled the manifold entirely off, I found even more oil behind the alternator

The radiator replacement was recommended by the guy that put on water pump bolts and a new thermostat for me.
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      05-18-2023, 08:47 PM   #35
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned it, but how have you verified none of the serpentine belt did not get past the crank seal and into the oil sump? And the person coming to replace the seal, have he/she done such work on the N54 previously? I hope from watching the vids that you know the crank hub pulley bolt does not get removed to remove the harmonic balancer. The harmonic balancer is held to the crank hub via six bolts. The hub is not indexed to the crank, so loosening and removing the crank hub bolt releases the clamping force on the crank gear that drives the cam chain, which risks upsetting the timing between the crankshaft and camshafts. The six bolts can be a PIA to remove without the proper tools to hold the crankshaft stationary. I found the easiest method is to use an air impact butterfly wrench.

Back to the spark plug. That has me now concerned because if the engine was serviced properly, at 150,000 miles, the plugs you just replaced should have been at a minimum the 3rd set and only in the head for the last 60,000 miles. As I stated earlier, there should be no reason the plug is stuck in the head other than it was improperly installed and is crossthreaded in the head. Just be prepared to need a thread coil insert once the plug is out, or a new cylinderhead will be necessary as a worse case. Usually a professional mechanic will want to remove the cylinderhead to repair the sparkplug hole thread. Definately take the car to a German auto shop that can repair the head with a thread-coil insert. Ask them up front about their ability to remove the plug [...]
It’s possible that it got into the oil sump area, I’m not sure yet but will definitely bring it up with the guy that will replace the front seal. How exactly can I find this out? Thanks for the tip and bringing it up!

Yes, the guy coming has had an N54 in the past and has 3 BMWs at the moment. I definitely know not to mess with the middle bolt!

The tool that I ordered is supposed to stabilize the crankshaft while the seal is removed and put on

Thanks for letting me know some outcomes on the spark plug!
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      05-18-2023, 08:53 PM   #36
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I might have missed it but you said it has a leaking front main seal? That primarily happens when the engine eats the belt..i would be way more concerned about the engine being filled with rubber than one spark plug.
I’m definitely worried more about the front seal now, I’m just working on what I can while the car is disabled. eBay shipping is horribly slow and I still haven’t gotten in the seal puller tool

I’m glad that you and another poster mentioned that it could get into the engine and oil sump- nothing I’ve come across online so far has warned about it

The timing chain looks good is still tight, when I’ve peered down with my phone and zoomed, with a flashlight, I have not seen any shreds

I asked another poster, how can I tell if it has gotten into the lower part of the engine or oil sump? Are there signs? Will I be able to tell once the seal is off?

Thanks!
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      05-18-2023, 09:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inquisitive View Post
😂 How is that crazy? I know plenty of married men that put themselves into “crazy” situations. One brother-in-law is a cop with just one family car. The other BIL is great with cars but is deep in repairing BOTH of their cars at the moment after buying a old car on impulse. I’ve known plenty of families relying on just one car. I’ve had a backup car and plan to get another after I’ve gotten this one up-to-date.

I’m not a doordasher or poor. I don’t see how trying to save thousands of dollars makes one poor. I could end up saving well over 5% of my income doing this work myself. I’m a geneticist back in school for a third degree. One kid. I don’t do social media.

I see that you’re having fun with my post 😆
Ignore the troll. I think you are absolutely amazing for taking on this and learning as you go. And smart enough to ask what to do before you broke something really expensive. And you are doing just fine with it too.

You GO GIRL!
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      05-18-2023, 10:58 PM   #38
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Sorry to hear about your issue, but it sounds like you're learning a lot!

When my old 08' 135i w/ PPK was around 100,000 miles, I realized that nowhere in the textbook-sized service and warranty records had the spark plugs been replaced (ouch!). I then went on to find one stuck plug.

Unfortunately, there is no risk-free fix for this. A relative who works as a BMW service advisor recommended that I just leave the old plug in there until it failed.

I'm more stubborn than I am a can-kicker, so I tried an overnight PB Blaster soak. This didn't work, so i dried out the cylinder head with compressed air and paper rags wrapped around a skinny flat-head (make sure it's dry so as not to ruin the coils!). I drove the car close to home until the oil temp gauge barely had a reading, so it must've been about 160-180F. Water temp (which warms to operating temp faster than oil) would be more useful since we're dealing with the cylinder head, but all I had was the oil temp gauge. With a little heat in the engine and a prior-night PB soak, the plug came out without feeling like I would break something.

As I said, this is not risk free. Heating the aluminum head to expand more than the harder spark plug makes the threads softer and susceptible to damage. This is why you only want to warm it up, not bring it all the way to operating temp. In theory, this approach is relatively safe because machining standards of heads and plugs should be precise enough to discount an obstruction in the threads other than ordinary carbon buildup, and twisting carbon buildup shouldn't wreck a warmed-up head. However, if the plug is cross-threaded, this approach will tear up your threads. I did not have this concern since my stuck plug was factory-installed, but you do have to consider this possibility. Cylinder 2 is not particularly hard to access and is less-likely to be cross-threaded than other plugs you already got, but there's still a chance.

And if you do this, let the head cool completely before installing the new plug. You don't want to torque the new plug in a softer, heated head because then you'll be back at square 1 in 50,000 miles.

Good luck!
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      05-19-2023, 12:28 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
Ignore the troll. I think you are absolutely amazing for taking on this and learning as you go. And smart enough to ask what to do before you broke something really expensive. And you are doing just fine with it too.

You GO GIRL!
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      05-19-2023, 03:43 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Inquisitive View Post
The alternator was coated in oil. I tried to remove it all, but everyone I’ve talked to said it’s likely done for. What do you think? When I pulled the manifold entirely off, I found even more oil behind the alternator

The radiator replacement was recommended by the guy that put on water pump bolts and a new thermostat for me.
That is probably coming from your ofhg, fix the leak first

Once you fix the leak, degrease the alternator with some light solvent, don’t worry about getting it perfect it should burn off and don’t start the car with solvent or degreaser blow air to dry it

As for the radiator if it’s not leaking you are fine. When rads leak that’s the only time you replace them
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      05-19-2023, 06:29 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Inquisitive View Post
The alternator was coated in oil. I tried to remove it all, but everyone I’ve talked to said it’s likely done for. What do you think? When I pulled the manifold entirely off, I found even more oil behind the alternator

The radiator replacement was recommended by the guy that put on water pump bolts and a new thermostat for me.
That looks like the oil filter housing cap was not sealed correctly. Someone probably put the large o-ring not in the groove it is supposed to sit in. That's a shit load of oil to come from the OFH gasket; that would be a terrible leak from the gasket.
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      05-19-2023, 06:30 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
Keep your head up and ignore the peanut gallery! I usually run spark plugs for 100k. I would wait until it causes a running problem. Then you have to see if it will come out. Who knows when that will be. Motor on!
Do you own an N54 powered car?? Hard to recommend stuff if you don't. BMW recommends 45k mile intervals. If tuned even less....
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      05-26-2023, 10:20 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mecheng77 View Post
That is probably coming from your ofhg, fix the leak first

Once you fix the leak, degrease the alternator with some light solvent, don’t worry about getting it perfect it should burn off and don’t start the car with solvent or degreaser blow air to dry it

As for the radiator if it’s not leaking you are fine. When rads leak that’s the only time you replace them
I found the major oil leak area, it was my front crankshaft seal. A wad of belt shred was in it! I ended up replacing it myself 3 days ago. I let the gasket maker cure for a day then filled it- it’s still holding so far. Had a leak near my PCV valve and corner of my valve cover, fixed those too!

Had everything nicely together last night. Until I put the fan back on and wedged it into the rim area of the radiator, I think I might have broken it. I posted a question about that and the engine not starting tonight! 😔
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      05-27-2023, 08:14 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadams161 View Post
Do you own an N54 powered car?? Hard to recommend stuff if you don't. BMW recommends 45k mile intervals. If tuned even less....


Also depends on what sparkplug and brand. copper last less than iridium laser...

haha, yeah Ive noticed it on my tuned audi. On my previous n/a v6, yes iridium lasted 100k km, but my tuned water/meth audi, they lasted 55k km, and I had massive missfire.
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