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      12-24-2019, 01:28 PM   #89
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If you can get the lights to switch on and off you're half way there. My basic understanding of electrical stuff might help lol

If you add in the normally closed output from a relay and it should reverse the logic (pardon the pun)

So the wire that comes from the gearbox is energising a light circuit. So wire it up as you now have it where the lights only go off when in reverse gear is the switch on the gearbox a ground or +12v when in reverse ?

You need to make that circuit drive a relay coil, so cut the wire from the gearbox and connect pins 85 and 86

Then depending on whether the gearbox provides +12 or ground you take that same power or ground source and connect to pin 87a

And connect the lights to pin 30

The effect this has is that the relay is always on whilst ignition is on as your lights are now...and switches off when it goes off(you engage reverse gear).

Does that help ?
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      12-25-2019, 02:49 PM   #90
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It helped to give me a boost to keep trying.

I figured it out my trial and error.

I figured the rear lights only needed the yellow wire to work. Not sure what the other wire was for.

I tested the single wire on all the places I could under the car and came up with.
Lights not on.
Lights on all the time.
Lights on u til i press trans brake.
Lights work as they should but transbrake not working ( this was when the fuse popped and made me confused on why the lights are finally workung as planned)
Finally put the yellow wire in the gear shifter reverse clicker. One side didnt work other side works as it should. Transbrake works and reverse Lights work when button is pressed.

This was done with some aluminium foil and a broom to hold it up to act as a mirror so could see what was going on.

Onto the radium fuel hanger.....
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      12-25-2019, 03:00 PM   #91
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I installed 2 pumps but the filters that come with the pump dont fit into the radium hanger. When they are perfectly squished in the top bit of the pump needs another 15mm to fully seat.

Bit of a pain, i just need to order 2 filters and now have realised i need to upgrade all fuel line from lpfp to hpfp as nothing plug n plays with oem unless you buy there pre made lines.
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      12-25-2019, 03:54 PM   #92
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Fuel pumps filter doesnt fit...
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      12-25-2019, 03:58 PM   #93
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      12-25-2019, 03:59 PM   #94
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      12-25-2019, 04:00 PM   #95
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      12-26-2019, 03:32 PM   #96
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What? Not made for N54 then?
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      12-26-2019, 04:13 PM   #97
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The pump comes witj a universal sock. The sock has a bit of plastic webbing.
The plastic webbing cannot be folded to seat in the bucket.

#letsspendmoremoney
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      12-26-2019, 05:22 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule View Post
The pump comes witj a universal sock. The sock has a bit of plastic webbing.
The plastic webbing cannot be folded to seat in the bucket.

#letsspendmoremoney
Haha that hashtag mate... sooooo true
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      12-28-2019, 04:01 AM   #99
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Fixed up a bit wiring.
Jb4 is loaded latest firmware.
Put 255 lpfp in as I need more parts for radium lpfp.
Ordered my parts.
Hanging for a drive so I googled removing airbag.
I failed the other day for about an hour.
I googled a bit today and found out that theres holes you cant see but can feel. 2 minutes later the airbag was out and I had mhd logging on out the driveway.


Not sure why bmw need a full day to do it. Literally took 2 minutes or less. Cant believe I wasted an hour in the other holes!


Anyway went for a spin and felt some boost. It has nothing below 3000rpm then torque starts and seats you back hard at 4000rpm.

Overall feels like 1000rpm behind rbs for torque and alot less torque under 3000rpm. My 2.7 petrol has more torque under 3000rpm.

Heres a bit of boosting. Got up around 4500rpm wot.
Felt good.

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      12-28-2019, 02:39 PM   #100
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Im keen to drive this again.
Im going to put jb4 cable through the glovebox before driving next time.

Nothing has melted on the turbo side. I put the engine cover back on with some aluminium heat shielding. I noticed the oil feed is getting pretty hot not sure if its normal. I can feel it through the heat shielding. Oil temps were fine around 110c. Water hottest 103 then 98 most of the time.
Iats were around 38-41 cruising and it was 30 degrees. No logs under boost yet.

Not sure if its enough long term but it has passed the test for half hour drives.
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      12-28-2019, 03:09 PM   #101
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Congrats mate !! Finally got it up and running. Great to see no major issues on the maiden run 👍. Tune should be able to lower the rpms when the boost kicks in. Will have it pulling 9s on the strip before long 😃
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      12-28-2019, 06:51 PM   #102
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Put the jb4 cable in.
Started logging now its all in imperial again!
Alot of the things are X 10 ect so I need to get used to it.


Its streetable now anyway.
Just waiting for more parts to get it ready to pump in some boost.
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      12-29-2019, 02:26 AM   #103
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Congrats mate and we'll done!
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      12-29-2019, 03:14 AM   #104
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Cheers,

Couldn't help it went out for some wot runs.

It holds 14psi perfect. No boost creep. Pretty happy about that. No open dump sounds. Cant even here wastegate when it opens.

Turbo sounds sweet with some load.


Afrs around 12.5 at wot
Lpfp holds 65-70
Iats dont move at this boost go down a few degrees.
Advance is only 6.5 or so. Plenty low and safe for cruising on pump fuel.

The 255 pump might even handle map 2 17psi lol not bad for 5 or 6 years old and $90.
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      12-29-2019, 03:17 AM   #105
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And the transbrake lol literally a slingshot!!!
Only done it up to 3500rpm but it pulls. Anymore it will do a skid I reckon.
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      12-29-2019, 03:53 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule View Post
And the transbrake lol literally a slingshot!!!
Only done it up to 3500rpm but it pulls. Anymore it will do a skid I reckon.
Bungee jumping in a N54 lol
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      01-02-2020, 05:44 AM   #107
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Worked on the car a bit.

Installed a new lpfp system. Radium twin hanger with a fuel reg which goes on the opposite side of the tank that the normal lpfp goes.
It was one of the easier installs ive done where everything fitted neatly except the fuel filters which I had to buy 2 special soft ones to fit in the bucket.

I was pretty confused with the instructions and what they have called left and right as I always thought the behind the driver's side pump fuel line went to the fuel rail.
If you look at the instructions you will see what I mean. After I realised the passenger side was where the feed to rail was I was all good.

I installed 2 Ti 274 pumps and still have the 255 pumping fuel into the radium bucket. Ill put another 274 pump as the 255 isnt rated for e85.

I still need to do the wiring which looks pretty simple and uses the lpfp ekp signal as a trigger. Pretty sure the will just turn on 100% only but will do until I find a better way.

Next up I will fix my exhaust which is sitting a bit low. It also has slip joints which I wont gone. It was a pretty poor effort for the price paid. It had a dodgy bracket around the 2 pipes at it lowest point which had a bolt hanging 15mm or so lower. Its been bent and its just as squashed at the bends like the oem one. It is 2.5 inch and reasonably quite which I like so im just going to get a bit better ground clearance.

Also looking to get 2 step installed to control launching.

Got 2-3 months until any drags will be on.
Ill just keep chipping away until then.
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      01-02-2020, 08:46 PM   #108
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Jeez mate hats off to you with digging deep for this one on your own!
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      01-02-2020, 09:13 PM   #109
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I felt boost last week so ive got a bit of go about me again.
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      01-03-2020, 05:28 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule View Post


Also looking to get 2 step installed to control launching.

Got 2-3 months until any drags will be on.
Ill just keep chipping away until then.
The chip that's installed in the JB4 is for 2 step. Its the upgraded chip. Not sure if you realised.
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