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N54 No start!
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02-08-2020, 02:57 PM | #23 |
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Unfortunately, YES!
Hoped it would be that simple but did NOT really expect it would be. If you heard an audible click when you bench tested it, or got 12V+ at pin 87, then you know how to test for proper relay operation when it is plugged in (you can test for 12V+ at any of the Orange Power Supply wires from the relay to any of the fuses F01 to F04 in the Fuse Carrier, or just test for voltage in ANY of those fuse sockets. Here is DME "Supply" circuit if you want to try to follow it: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/bpRMI2V Quick way to CAREFULLY confirm that there is a wiring fault which is NOT activating the DME Relay is to apply a jumper from socket 30 to socket 87, JUMPING the relay sockets or completing the circuit as the relay would if properly activated. BE AWARE that Socket for Pin#30 is ALWAYS HOT or battery power, so make sure your jumper wire does NOT contact Ground or you'll have a light (& HEAT) show. IF what is preventing firing when Starter cranks is lack of DME Relay activation, the engine will NOW start. Of course you DON'T want to LEAVE that jumper in place with engine off, or battery drain or worse will occur. Refer to RealOEM diagram for proper identification of Relay pins 30 & 87. OR, other thing you could do to identify wiring fault is: 1) Pull relay partway out of socket so that relay pins are contacting socket metal BUT enough of relay pins are exposed that you can apply a ground wire to pin 85. 2) Make SURE you have correctly identified pin 85, and ONLY apply ground to that pin, as contact of Ground with any OTHER pin will cause a SHORT. 3) If applying ground to that pin causes relay to click, we have identified the problem. 4) Be VERY CAREFUL working with relay pins exposed as electrical short can occur. Try that and check back. George Last edited by gbalthrop; 02-08-2020 at 03:11 PM.. |
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02-08-2020, 03:26 PM | #24 |
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I probably SHOULD have suggested as the first step that you check for 12V+ at Socket #6 of the Relay Socket X6300:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...00606/CT86fHie If NO voltage there, then check fuse F54 on the JB Fuse Panel, located just to LEFT of F55 in this diagram: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...606/1VnYdZZNsj George |
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02-09-2020, 01:52 PM | #25 | |
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02-09-2020, 11:02 PM | #26 |
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So I pulled the spark plugs, were very black, I do have a valve cover gasket leak, so one was covered in oil and gas. Others have gas on them. Could it be foul plugs?! Replacing them tommorow
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02-26-2020, 05:59 PM | #27 |
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04-26-2020, 10:10 PM | #28 | |
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A10A EWS4
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Last edited by Preston.Garcia; 04-26-2020 at 10:14 PM.. Reason: added the "car cranks but doesn't start" |
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04-26-2020, 11:54 PM | #29 | |
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I have a A10A EWS4 code after replacing the valve cover on my 2008 BMW 328i. The car would crank but not start even with a jump from a truck. I charged the battery overnight because i thought it was that, after a couple failed starts the battery completely died and the trunk locked up as well as no lights or BMW noises when you open the door. Please leave any advice on how to fix this or like you said to get the DME and CAS to communicate ( i don't know how to do that ), anything helps, thanks! |
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07-10-2023, 06:05 PM | #31 | |
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Did you manage to solve the problem? Where was the problem and how did you solve it? |
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07-10-2023, 06:06 PM | #32 | |
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I’m having same code for my bmw320d N47. Did you solve it? How? Plz reply Thanks. |
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