[j28s]

Here's some additional lap time reduction mods. NOTE: all of these depends on the track. If you have a tight 1.5 mile track and a 3.5 mile more flowing track, you'll see different time savings.
- Adding higher spring rates will save about .5 seconds.
- Weight reduction to the car...may not see much until you start going over 75 lbs. Granted the more weight reduction, the quicker you'll go. You'll see better lap time differences on tighter tracks than more flowing tracks unless you have some serious weight reduction. On average, 100 lbs is about 9 to 10 hp comparison. On higher horsepower cars that are around 3,000 lbs...the comparison will be around 25 hp.
- Suspension - coilovers 2 seconds for the average driver. Experienced racer would be more especially with double adjustable shocks. Even more with four way shocks. NOTE: for those people thinking about getting four way shocks (i.e. Ohlin, JRZ, Moton, Penske, etc)...you need to SERIOUSLY think about it. You can make things worse if you don't know what you're doing AND don't send your shocks off to get Dyno'd after each setting change (i.e. HS compression, LS compression, HS rebound, LS rebound - HS=high speed, LS= low speeed). Swaybars won't help to much - only if your car isn't balanced well (i.e. tailhappy). Spherical Bearings everywhere can get you a second with a good suspension and balanced car. Corner Weighting can get you up to a second also even more if you can move weight around. Remember unsprung weight savings is MUCH better than sprung weight savings!!!
- Alignment - i.e. camber for competition tires can save you around .3 to .5 seconds. I.E. Hoosier R6 really need to be around -2.5 camber to work good.
- Tires - DOT Competition tire like Hoosier (sorry, my experience is that the Hoosier is faster than the others like Kumho, Toyo, Yok, BFG). If you get race slicks with proper alignment you save another 1 to 1.5 seconds over the DOT tires.
- Brakes - better brakes will get you about .3 seconds
- Horsepower - silly i know, but yes, more power, faster the car. BUT, if you have so much HP and stock suspesion, tires, weight, etc. You are only going to be able to go so fast

There's more stuff...

[dxb335d]

In all honesty people would be better off spending money on a race instructor first.. Become a great driver before altering the car!

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

In all honesty people would be better off spending money on a race instructor first.. Become a great driver before altering the car!

+1

Read my post in this forum about the 800+ HP Viper with slicks that had to point me by.

[j28s]

SG335 - you mentioned that you can run back to back laps at any race track within .5 seconds. Have you tried different techniques? Do you left foot break and/or heel/toe? Have you tried different entry points (apex points)? Tried short shifting (335 is great car for that since there's TQ)? Trail braking? Tried fast in turns and throttle oversteering out? (note: this one is more for a qualifying lap or passing...not something you want to do every lap because you'll over heat the brakes and wear out the tires quick. This is also for turns that have a long straight prior to the turn and a pretty good straight after the turn where you want to keep maximum speed as long as possible.) Is the car smooth when you drive or is it jerky (passengers will notice this more than you and will most of the time compliment you on how smooth the car is). The more smooth you are, the quicker you will be since you don't upset the car and take turns at a higher speed.

[S4to335]

Originally Posted by j28s

SG335 - you mentioned that you can run back to back laps at any race track within .5 seconds. Have you tried different techniques? Do you left foot break and/or heel/toe? Have you tried different entry points (apex points)? Tried short shifting (335 is great car for that since there's TQ)? Trail braking? Tried fast in turns and throttle oversteering out? (note: this one is more for a qualifying lap or passing...not something you want to do every lap because you'll over heat the brakes and wear out the tires quick. This is also for turns that have a long straight prior to the turn and a pretty good straight after the turn where you want to keep maximum speed as long as possible.) Is the car smooth when you drive or is it jerky (passengers will notice this more than you and will most of the time compliment you on how smooth the car is). The more smooth you are, the quicker you will be since you don't upset the car and take turns at a higher speed.

My exit speed stunk thru this corner..that Audi race car pulled away like I was standing still (exaggerating..but you understand)...I was worried about getting the tail to come out much..due to the k-wall.

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by S4to335

My exit speed stunk thru this corner..that Audi race car pulled away like I was standing still (exaggerating..but you understand)...I was worried about getting the tail to come out much..due to the k-wall.

You can see clearly from the pic, you have gone in way to deep into the bend, look how the audi has hooked up the apex and is starting to come really well out of the bend, if you were doing your line all day then you were making a Mistake.


Carlos

[S4to335]

I was later apexing than him...because when I got on it earlier..I would just smoke that right rear and go friggin nowhere. I dont think I was always in this position..I was actually experimenting and seeing what was best. Fact: this car needs a working LSD to be faster on track.

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by S4to335

I was later apexing than him...because when I got on it earlier..I would just smoke that right rear and go friggin nowhere. I dont think I was always in this position..I was actually experimenting and seeing what was best. Fact: this car needs a working LSD to be faster on track.

You should have watched him and did exactly what he did, if he was a seasoned racer you will learn quicker this way, other than having an instructor of course

If the inside wheel is bellowing smoke then your throttle is wrong, cut right back, come out majorly slow and pick up more throttle and speed lap after lap untill you feel the inside breaking away, this too shall improve your laptimes, enable you to take the correct racing line, and also dave you a fortune on rubber


Carlos

[Chowbow]

I'm pretty sure S4to335 is not a n00b to tracking... in fact he's an instructor...

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by Chowbow

I'm pretty sure S4to335 is not a n00b to tracking... in fact he's an instructor...

driving like he is in the pic, and regarding his comments, he should be sacked then i aint joking!!

Carlos

[S4to335]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

driving like he is in the pic, and regarding his comments, he should be sacked then i aint joking!!

Carlos

Come to Laguna and we can play together...

Yes, I am an instructor..and raced a Spec Miata from 2002-2004 in SCCA Club racing in NorCal.

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by S4to335

Come to Laguna and we can play together...

Yes, I am an instructor..and raced a Spec Miata from 2002-2004 in SCCA Club racing in NorCal.

Would love to, but i am a million miles away from you!! If your an instructor why are you struggling so much?

How come you stopped racing?

[S4to335]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

Would love to, but i am a million miles away from you!! If your an instructor why are you struggling so much?

How come you stopped racing?

That was only my 4th or 5th day on any track with that car..still trying to dial it in...the place where I was losing time was in the hairpins...the car would have to be babied around in that turn #11..and in turn #2. I think I was trying too hard and making my tires greasy pretty quickly...I finally found the best pressure for my tires..but I still need to work on righthanders..especially ones with negative camber. I need better front camber....and wider tires all around..I went with 235/40/18s on all four corners..I think 245/35/18s will be tried next..maybe 255/35/18s...

Stopped racing due to the costs...had tow vehicle, trailer, race car..it gets real expensive real quick. Also saw two guys die on track during a test day at Thunderhill (http://www.thunderhill.com)..thatchanged my priorities a bunch since I have kids. They were at track too when those racers died. One guy didnt stop for turn #14...and drove into turn #8..and hit another car at about 90 mph.

http://www.thunderhill.com/07_Facility_Internet.pdf

My old car...sold about 4 months ago...

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by S4to335

That was only my 4th or 5th day on any track with that car..still trying to dial it in...the place where I was losing time was in the hairpins...the car would have to be babied around in that turn #11..and in turn #2. I think I was trying too hard and making my tires greasy pretty quickly...I finally found the best pressure for my tires..but I still need to work on righthanders..especially ones with negative camber. I need better front camber....and wider tires all around..I went with 235/40/18s on all four corners..I think 245/35/18s will be tried next..maybe 255/35/18s...

Stopped racing due to the costs...had tow vehicle, trailer, race car..it gets real expensive real quick. Also saw two guys die on track during a test day at Thunderhill (http://www.thunderhill.com)..thatchanged my priorities a bunch since I have kids. They were at track too when those racers died.

I too used to race, but ran out of money.. Loved every minute of it and if i had a lottery win i would do it again right away

i have never track dayed before, i feel i would enjoy it, but being a raw racer would want competition find it lacklustre!

i might be wrong and will be trying it soon!

I htought the E9x was seriously dialled in well stock? considering in one of your Mags over there beat an RS4 around a track!

for me AWD is for rally cars
Race cars must be RWD!!


Carlos

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

I too used to race, but ran out of money.. Loved every minute of it and if i had a lottery win i would do it again right away

i have never track dayed before, i feel i would enjoy it, but being a raw racer would want competition find it lacklustre!

i might be wrong and will be trying it soon!

I htought the E9x was seriously dialled in well stock? considering in one of your Mags over there beat an RS4 around a track!

for me AWD is for rally cars
Race cars must be RWD!!


Carlos

Dude, I can assure you, S4 knows how to drive. That said, based on your comments, I assume you haven't taken the 335i on track.

When/If you do, you will quickly learn lesson #1: E9X pushes like a biiihaatch.

For the first few days, I was taking all sorts of different lines to see which one was the fastest. As a former racer, I'm sure you know different cars demand different lines.

My lack of adherence to the "school line" is probably part of the reason why my laptimes keep getting better. The 335i is not a typical track vehicle. A good one with a few changes, imo, but not a typical one.

[j28s]

S4to335 - you have an unobstructed pic (no audi in the way of your RF and RR)? I take it you had the PSS9 and were running the GY F1 tires. Is this correct? In the pic, percentage wise, what is the braking? Where are you in the turn (apex standpoint)? Depending on your braking, and suspension settings, firm up the front and soften up the rear shocks. What spring rates you have (lbs not kg...I'm still not good at that).

[S4to335]

I didnt buy the CD of track pics..so no..I dont have any clear views of me on track with the PSS9s...I am thinking I need 50-100 more lbs in the rear...I have a slight pogo going on according to people following me. I let the folks at StaSIS Engineering have my car for a day to give impressions (they were also installing my Alcon's) and they agreed. I gotta find out what spring rates are in there now..I know StaSIS has a spring dyno to check out what they are..but I cant get up there just right now. I also need to gain access to the PSS9 adjusters in the back...they are covered up with the trunk material right not. I am set on 6F and 4R..so maybe switch it the opposite..or maybe do something like 6F..6R? BTW, the lower the number on PSS9s..the stiffer the setting. I was on Pilot Sport Cups..not the GY F1D3s.

In the pic I was probably just getting off the brake right then.

[j28s]

If I had to bet, I would say the PSS9 spring rates are around 425 lbs front and 375 lbs in the rear (or 450 lbs in the rear). 450 would be good, but would ride a bit rough since a bit less weight in the rear. 375 lbs would ride better and transfer weight to the rear better. 425 front is pretty standard.

Didn't know that about the PSS9 (lower number, the firmer it is. As you mentioned, 4F and 6R. Stiffer front shock is going to help the front from diving as much and keep the rear more planted (less weight transfer).

Have you got those sport cups in the rain yet? Raced a Porsche with Pilot Sport Cups on, half way through the race it started to rain. That was the teams rain tire they had (usually run on Hoosiers). Good tire though!

[j28s]

Oh..meant to ask. What hot pressures are you running? How much camber do you have?

[S4to335]

You cant adjust camber on these cars in front without installing adjustable camber plates..like what TCKline offers. I think at most its about -1.0...I didnt get a read out after they said it wasnt adjustable. For pressures, I was doing what Michelin said ...according to their literature. It was 36 front..32 rear hot.

[Chowbow]

I got -0.9 degrees camber on the front after a little lowering.

[S4to335]

Originally Posted by Chowbow

I got -0.9 degrees camber on the front after a little lowering.

Decent track performance would probably want more than negative 2 in camber up front.