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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Cosmetic and Lighting Modifications (exterior/interior) > M3 Style Front Headlight Washer Leak



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      12-05-2013, 02:58 PM   #1
Amini77
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M3 Style Front Headlight Washer Leak

Hey guy I just had my M3 style front bumper (from JG Mods) put on and I had a problem with the headlight washers leaking. I had the pop up headlight washers on my original bumper and the M3 style front bumper came with the half-dome washers (they just spray out). So the body shop figured that we had to take out the hydraulic(?) cylinder that popped up and washed the headlights and use the rubber tube that connected to that cylinder to the half-dome sprayer. However that cylinder prevented fluid from constantly flowing out, so once we took it out it just kept pouring out the nozzle of the m3 front bumper. We didn't know what to do so I just said give me 2 fat bolts and clog the rubber tube until I take it to my mechanic to see what he can come up with.

So what did you guys with the M3 style front bumper do for the washers? I don't want to lose that feature.

Also I have the air ducts instead of fog lights. I can get the error coded out for not having fogs but is that the only way around that? Did you just tape the original fog light wires to the fender lining?
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      12-06-2013, 12:23 PM   #2
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no one?
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      02-20-2014, 12:04 AM   #3
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The other day, I got my friend to look at my washers since I kept on getting the low fluid indicator after every fill up. Turns out it wasn't working and when I reversed out, there was fluid on the ground. right now I'm considering pulling the fuse and disabling the feature since to me the headlight washers are a bit pointless. I think the high pressure from the hydraulic may have burst the tubes thus leading to leak.
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      02-20-2014, 12:12 AM   #4
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Also any idea whether washer fluids can cause erosion or rust? i think this issues been happening since the beginning of winter. And I don't like the feeling of having fluids under parts of the car which is dark and hard to dry up.
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      09-24-2014, 05:55 PM   #5
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Any other news? Same problem here - just installed M3 Rep, washer leaking after first use. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what's up, but it is leaking from the area of the front hookup.
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      09-24-2014, 05:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmerMeUp View Post
Any other news? Same problem here - just installed M3 Rep, washer leaking after first use. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what's up, but it is leaking from the area of the front hookup.
I have no idea but I'm probably going to remove them
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      09-24-2014, 06:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amini77 View Post
I have no idea but I'm probably going to remove them
Bummer. Ok - if I find anything out, I'll post it here also.
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      09-24-2014, 06:05 PM   #8
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Just have them coded out I hated the headlight washers anyways
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      09-25-2014, 06:00 AM   #9
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Problem is two parts for me:

Problem #1 - The "O" Ring.
My washer hoses were leaking profusely from the supply junction. Seems my M3 Rep bumper didn't come with O-Rings on the hose barbs leading to the washer nipples. I had the OEM washer pistons removed as well but kept them, so I was able to remove the O-rings from those (same barb) and put them on the bumper - problem #1 is solved, they no longer leak from the junction.

Problem #2 - Capillary Action.
It seems, when the washer pump fires, it produces an extreme burst of washer fluid from the nipple-jets (extreme pressure and extreme mess!! ack), but then the line drains in a gentle continuous stream afterward for a couple minutes. I'm looking to put some sort of inline pressure-check-valve on the supply line to combat this so that the extreme pressure of the pump can overcome the valve, but it springs closed as soon as the pressure falls, similar to how the original washer-piston works.

Still working on it.
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      09-25-2014, 11:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmerMeUp View Post
Problem is two parts for me:

Problem #1 - The "O" Ring.
My washer hoses were leaking profusely from the supply junction. Seems my M3 Rep bumper didn't come with O-Rings on the hose barbs leading to the washer nipples. I had the OEM washer pistons removed as well but kept them, so I was able to remove the O-rings from those (same barb) and put them on the bumper - problem #1 is solved, they no longer leak from the junction.

Problem #2 - Capillary Action.
It seems, when the washer pump fires, it produces an extreme burst of washer fluid from the nipple-jets (extreme pressure and extreme mess!! ack), but then the line drains in a gentle continuous stream afterward for a couple minutes. I'm looking to put some sort of inline pressure-check-valve on the supply line to combat this so that the extreme pressure of the pump can overcome the valve, but it springs closed as soon as the pressure falls, similar to how the original washer-piston works.

Still working on it.
Mine just constantly leaks from the nipple.
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      09-26-2014, 06:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amini77 View Post
Mine just constantly leaks from the nipple.
Ya, looks like a siphon problem. The supply tank is higher than the nipple, so it just naturally drains. I filled my tank last night, empty the next morning. Crap.

An "inline pressure relief valve" would work perfectly, but they're for industrial applications and expensive ($60+ ea). Need something cheap and easy which does the same thing. "Vented Loop" is an idea - used in marine applications to pass toilet flushes out but then break the seal after the poop passes so the line doesn't siphon either direction - in or out of the boat. Problem is, a Vented Loop must "loop" above the water supply (above the water tank). Not sure how that would work for us, plus Vented Loop vents are all designed for large diameter plumbing.

So we need the same idea but 1/4".

Anyone own an "actual" M3 who can tell us how those work? They *MUST* have some sort of check-valve. Unfortunately RealOEM and parts images are all crap online - they show the wrong equipment for M3 headlight washers. bah.
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      10-03-2014, 02:34 PM   #12
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Update.

So although a "vented loop" would probably work, it wouldn't be ideal, as it would prevent the siphon effect by allowing air into the line when not under pressure (i.e. not firing) and drain the washer fluid all the way back into the tank. That would mean whenever the headlight washer fired it would need to re-fill the entire air-filled line with washer fluid before ever reaching the washer nozzle to spray. Given that it fires 2 or 3 times each cycle - ya, ok, might still work, but not optimal.

Had a lengthy conversation with my local Stealership parts counter, who, although helpful, seemed mildly disgusted I was taking up his time with my non-OEM BMW parts questions, but whatever, he'll get over it. Stumbled across this part:

61688229249

That is a "Non-Return Valve" for the REAR washer of a Mini. Unfortunately the part is equally "mini" and only a fraction of the size we need for our front washer supply lines. Even somehow getting the miniature barbs to fit our hoses, the pressure would surely blast it to pieces on the first go.

The above part costs $8.

The very same valve mechanism would appear to be built-in to the E90 M3 fixed washer jets. This is part number:

61678044541

Our M3 Rep bumpers of course don't have this part. Our washer jets are probably the same brass spray head you'd find on any number of Chinese built garden sprayer wands... gah.

This BMW part? $100. Each.

Bwaaahahaha. Of COURSE it's $100. And you need TWO of them.


Next steps: Correction - Just need a check valve with a higher cracking pressure. Most are < 1psi. Found one with >2psi cracking pressure. Going to try that.

Further updates as events warrant...

Last edited by BmerMeUp; 10-03-2014 at 03:07 PM..
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      10-03-2014, 03:40 PM   #13
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Bought a pair of these ("1" item in this auction IS a pair - from the watermarked vendor name as shown) - unfortunately they will take 3 weeks to arrive from China... but at least they'll match my Chinese spray nozzles?


I'm hoping I guessed the size correct - I manually measured the barb width on the OEM telescoping washer inlet - 11.5mm, this one says it has an 11mm barb. Worst case, a small gear-clamp will fix it.

The main feature for THIS check-valve over any of the others I found (other than industrial sized/priced ones) is the 2psi cracking pressure and 145psi resistance (back) pressure, suggesting it can handle the seemingly extreme forward pressure when the washer fires. That should be enough to stop a siphon-based leak, as most others crack at 0.5psi or less, and I'm not sure that would be strong enough to hold back the siphon effect.

Fingers crossed this does the trick.
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      11-08-2014, 05:19 PM   #14
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Any updates on this fix?

BmerMeUp? Would be great to know if this worked for you...
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      11-07-2019, 03:16 PM   #15
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Sorry to revive an old post. Did anyone ever figure out the problem. I give up looking for an M3 with same style washer holes. If anyone has rhe answee to the posted above problem, please share. Thank you
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      11-09-2019, 07:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrianrt View Post
Sorry to revive an old post. Did anyone ever figure out the problem. I give up looking for an M3 with same style washer holes. If anyone has rhe answee to the posted above problem, please share. Thank you
Yes, I bought the same bumper from iKon Motorsports & had the same issue. I used 3.5mm vac line from the washer to the part below & then installed the part in-line.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/61688229249/

Works like a charm
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