[What_A_D]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Very interesting. Any chance you could at least give us a thumbs up or thumbs down to what direction the findings went?

I can say it was a thumbs up for sure. Alcohol/water injection proved very effective.

[dokeeffe]

I have a 2011 BMW 335d with 80,000 miles. SF BMW dealer wants to me $3000 for carbon cleaning. Does anyone know of a mechanic in SF Bay Area that can do this service? Or has anyone done this theirselves?

Thanks
Dan

[totitan]

Originally Posted by dokeeffe

I have a 2011 BMW 335d with 80,000 miles. SF BMW dealer wants to me $3000 for carbon cleaning. Does anyone know of a mechanic in SF Bay Area that can do this service? Or has anyone done this theirselves?

Thanks
Dan

Minicorsa in N Hollywood does a excellent job for about a third of that. It might be worth the drive to socal to save 2K. Call them and check it out. http://minicorsa.com/

[geost]

Originally Posted by dokeeffe

I have a 2011 BMW 335d with 80,000 miles. SF BMW dealer wants to me $3000 for carbon cleaning. Does anyone know of a mechanic in SF Bay Area that can do this service? Or has anyone done this theirselves?

Thanks
Dan

If you're willing to go to Fremont, check out Trackspec. Jon is the owner and he did the carbon cleaning on my 335d a few weeks ago. Waaaay less than the $3k SF BMW wants to charge...

TrackSpec AutoSports
7100 Stevenson Blvd.
Fremont, CA 93538
(510) 403-1161
http://www.trackspecauto.com/

Go to his website and click on "get a quote". Tell him you want carbon cleaning on your 335d and he'll email you back with pricing. Took a few days to do mine but I wasn't in a rush to get it back.

[Marin_Oil_Burner]

I talked to my tech at Sonnen BMW in San Rafael. They said that there is a chemical version that they can do now that "only" costs $500, instead of the walnut blasting. I think the tech adviser that I spoke with was Jeff Acruri or something like that.

[geost]

Originally Posted by Marin_Oil_Burner

I talked to my tech at Sonnen BMW in San Rafael. They said that there is a chemical version that they can do now that "only" costs $500, instead of the walnut blasting. I think the tech adviser that I spoke with was Jeff Acruri or something like that.

Wow. BMW of Fremont quoted me $1500 for the chemical version. Far cry difference from $500... sheesh.

[Si-M240i]

Originally Posted by DieselRacer

I'm starting to hate this tranny, my pedal response is so slow its like the thing doesn't know im ready to go, It seems im resetting this damn tranny every week. lol

Get a sprint booster fitted and the throttle sensitivity will go to levels you can only imagine. I've had mine fitted for 3 years now and only turn it off in the snow as that is the only benefit such dull and unresponsive standard throttle sensitivity has any use for at all

[Kengineer]

Originally Posted by Marin_Oil_Burner

I talked to my tech at Sonnen BMW in San Rafael. They said that there is a chemical version that they can do now that "only" costs $500, instead of the walnut blasting. I think the tech adviser that I spoke with was Jeff Acruri or something like that.

Does anyone know of a BMW service bulletin on this?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Kengineer

Does anyone know of a BMW service bulletin on this?

Look here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...erience&page=2

[Kengineer]

Mik325tds, thanks for the DIY write up and the link. I'm really curios about the potential of chemical cleaning to avoid spending 8-10 hours on this. I would really like to know what chemical setup BMW is using. I'm curious if it's pretty much the same as this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NjLTPCko_A

[Dazza335iC]

^ I was thinking about trying that Liqui-Moly treatment.

There are some other alternatives as well: www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAJSOsIbqyc

And this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=P...&v=rFoZ6F1KESw

[Pierre Louis]

Originally Posted by Dazza335iC

^ I was thinking about trying that Liqui-Moly treatment

Please let us know if you do and how it turns out. I've asked others to post if they use this or BG for CBU.

Thanks.

PL

[Kengineer]

I ordered 2 cans that I should get in 5-7 days. To be honest I’m a little concerned about using this stuff with a diesel particulate filter.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Kengineer

Mik325tds, thanks for the DIY write up and the link. I'm really curios about the potential of chemical cleaning to avoid spending 8-10 hours on this. I would really like to know what chemical setup BMW is using. I'm curious if it's pretty much the same as this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NjLTPCko_A

That looks like a viable option to keep your system clean after an initial CBU cleaning job with walnut shells.
I wouldn't want to run so much dissolved gunk through my engine and exhaust system. Probably isn't the best for the particulate filter either.
Then again, if you have the EGR blocked and a clean intake system, there probably isn't any need to clean the intake ever after anyway.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Originally Posted by Kengineer

I ordered 2 cans that I should get in 5-7 days. To be honest I’m a little concerned about using this stuff with a diesel particulate filter.

I used that on my car at 40K miles and the SCR system started with an ungodly odor almost immediately then died within 1,000 miles. Coincidence does not equal causality, naturally. If your SCR has been gutted, this would not be applicable.

[Kengineer]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

That looks like a viable option to keep your system clean after an initial CBU cleaning job with walnut shells.
I wouldn't want to run so much dissolved gunk through my engine and exhaust system. Probably isn't the best for the particulate filter either.
Then again, if you have the EGR blocked and a clean intake system, there probably isn't any need to clean the intake ever after anyway.

Agreed Mik325tds!

I was able to use two cans on my car. I did this in combination with a oil purge and change as well as some injector cleaner. It did seem to work but there were a few issues.

Observations:

1) I was unable to keep the car idling at 2-2.5k RPM. If I got the RPM's above 1800ish the engine would try to rev up to 4k which isn't acceptable.

2) It took me the better part of an hour to do two cans of it with spraying it with pause intervals.

3) Even two cans seems to be inadequate for what I needed (78k miles first carbon cleaning). The car does seem to run and idle a bit better but it is still throwing engine codes (mostly cylinders 1-4 smoothness regulators) and looking inside the intake with a borescope I can still see lots of carbon. Each can is 400ml of solution so about 27oz total for two cans. The BG solution is 32oz and they say it may be necessary to do two rounds of it. I also think there might be something to the 12 to 17 second pause interval with the BG system.

4) It was pretty cool to watch it slowly eat away the build up on the throttle body butterfly.

I'm going to give it a little more time as the carbon build up is porous and I did see a video where the users of the BG system say it takes a few hundred miles before the treatment is complete. That said I'm thinking that I will either be doing a walnut blasting or the BG system if I can find anyone around Seattle that does it.

Ken

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

I used that on my car at 40K miles and the SCR system started with an ungodly odor almost immediately then died within 1,000 miles. Coincidence does not equal causality, naturally. If your SCR has been gutted, this would not be applicable.

Smell or SCR died in 1000 miles?

[Persian Whisperjet]

Smell came right away, and within 1,000 miles the SCR catalyst was dead.

[civilator]

Originally Posted by Kengineer

Agreed Mik325tds!

I was able to use two cans on my car. I did this in combination with a oil purge and change as well as some injector cleaner. It did seem to work but there were a few issues.

Observations:

1) I was unable to keep the car idling at 2-2.5k RPM. If I got the RPM's above 1800ish the engine would try to rev up to 4k which isn't acceptable.

2) It took me the better part of an hour to do two cans of it with spraying it with pause intervals.

3) Even two cans seems to be inadequate for what I needed (78k miles first carbon cleaning). The car does seem to run and idle a bit better but it is still throwing engine codes (mostly cylinders 1-4 smoothness regulators) and looking inside the intake with a borescope I can still see lots of carbon. Each can is 400ml of solution so about 27oz total for two cans. The BG solution is 32oz and they say it may be necessary to do two rounds of it. I also think there might be something to the 12 to 17 second pause interval with the BG system.

4) It was pretty cool to watch it slowly eat away the build up on the throttle body butterfly.

I'm going to give it a little more time as the carbon build up is porous and I did see a video where the users of the BG system say it takes a few hundred miles before the treatment is complete. That said I'm thinking that I will either be doing a walnut blasting or the BG system if I can find anyone around Seattle that does it.

Ken

hi all
I am having similar issues with the carbon build up and want to do the cleaning myself, so I can use the quoted $1200 towards a meth injection system (& transmission oil change).
I have an air compressor and a walnut blaster gun with some mechanical skills.
to summarize what I learned from the threads,
- take out the intake manifold, remove everything and clean it with hot water & degreaser (I dont have pressure washer and walnut blasting is not recommended on the intake)
- swirls flaps cant be cleaned with walnut blaster so use soda blasting or wash with hot water
- throttle body and egr valve can be walnut blasted.
- the intake valves and the ports on the engine side must be walnut blasted with each cylinder adjusted to close the valves, blast and then vacuum out the walnut shells.

Please let me know if there are any missing parts or mistakes on the four items above.

Now my question is,
I think I can clean the intake manifold which seems to be very basic, but would not want to touch the intake valves side.
with this in mind, I want to see if I can first clean the intake completely, and then use Liqui Moly's spray on the valves only.

I think there are three options,
1. spray the intake valves directly while the intake is off the engine without changing the cylinder positions until all build up is clean. would this fail the DPF of the SCR systems or would the engine just burn what is left from the LM's spray? I am also considering that the build up on the valves isnt as much as the intake, judging by all the pictures that are posted on the threads.
2. just to melt the carbon build up lightly, spray the valves just a little while the intake is off, then put the intake back on, start the engine and use the LM's cleaning procedure as normal.
3. just use the LM spray cleaner after putting the clean intake manifold (&egr&throttle body) back on the car hoping it will do a better job on the valves now that it goes through a clean intake manifold.


Do you think any of these methods would work for cleaning the valves? also, would hot water and degreaser be able to clean the intake and the swirl flaps, or is there an alternative for pressure washing?

thanks a lot for all the help in advance.