[Denny347]

ST coilovers were installed last year, lowering the car from the stock sport height. However, the original endlinks were retained. Today I finally installed a set of adjustable endlinks. The factories were too short, when the suspension was loaded, the end of the sway bar was way high. I installed the new longer ones and think I got it right. However, I noticed that after they are installed, when I raise the front end off the ground, the swaybar ends just kiss the lower control arms (mainly just barely scraping the headlight level bracket causing no damage). This only happens when the tires are well off the ground. Is this normal? Driving it, with all the weight on the ground, there are no noises when hitting bumps (actually it turns great now and no clicks/groans from the front end) so they are not making contact during normal driving. I adjusted the endlinks with the front end loaded to make sure they were not getting bound up like before. This sound about right?

[avocet]

So if you shorten the link 1/4" it won't touch at all?

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by avocet

So if you shorten the link 1/4" it won't touch at all?

Well, that's the thing. When under full load I adjusted the length to where the ends of the links would just push into the holes, the sway bar was "at rest". If I shortened them any, it would be forcing the sway bar ends upward. Man, what a difference new endlinks make. The sway bar is in a better position and the car handles better without all the clunks.

[avocet]

The sway bar at "rest" is just that - stationary at rest. If you undo the links on both sides and move the bar it will move freely, plus the friction of the bushings. A sway bar that is disconnected will have no "spring" or position it will want to return to.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by avocet

The sway bar at "rest" is just that - stationary at rest. If you undo the links on both sides and move the bar it will move freely, plus the friction of the bushings. A sway bar that is disconnected will have no "spring" or position it will want to return to.

Hmmm, maybe because I've got 94k miles on it, but it wasn't freely doing anything except where I attached the links. HP Autosports send instructions for installation stating that they are attached with suspension up in the air and when you drop the car back onto the ground (ramps) you adjust the length of the links until the bar is at rest and the link shaft spins freely for a quarter turn.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Denny347

Hmmm, maybe because I've got 94k miles on it, but it wasn't freely doing anything except where I attached the links. HP Autosports send instructions for installation stating that they are attached with suspension up in the air and when you drop the car back onto the ground (ramps) you adjust the length of the links until the bar is at rest and the link shaft spins freely for a quarter turn.

how much lower than zsp are you, up front?

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

how much lower than zsp are you, up front?

maybe 3/4"


I do not have pics of the new endlink install but here is a pic of the OEM endlinks after the ST installation. See how high the end of the sway bar was?

[avocet]

I hate to say this but if your links are hitting then the are not adjusted correctly.

That is all I can say.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by avocet

I hate to say this but if your links are hitting then the are not adjusted correctly.

That is all I can say.

Yeah, now I just gotta figure out how much I need to shorten them. They only adjust so short before I need to buy new shafts (at least they are the least expensive part to the links).

[pits200]

When you lower a car you need to lengthen the endlinks.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by pits200

When you lower a car you need to lengthen the endlinks.

Yes, looks like I did it just a tad too much, I wish the links were more adjustable.

[ashmostro]

Are you running M3 sways and bushings, by chance?

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Are you running M3 sways and bushings, by chance?

No but I am thinking about replacing the factory ones. They seem to be binding a bit. The sway bar does not move freely as it should. At 94k miles it is no surprise that these things need updated. I have replaced the thrust arms.

[ashmostro]

Yeah that's why I asked - because the M3 bushings by their very nature bind, which is why I prefer using aftermarket poly bushings like Powerflex black. I don't like having to pre-set the bar height before tightening down the bushing brackets every time you adjust the ride height. With fresh, lubed poly bushings you don't need to worry about that.

I bring this all up because it sounds like you solved for the binding issue by setting bar position where there was no binding at ride height. Instead you should set bar position according to the optimal bar end location at ride height and then adjust the endlinks. If you are getting binding, solve for that with fresh bushings and not by setting the wrong bar position as a band aid for a separate issue.

Even though the bar interference with the adjustment rod is only at full droop, I still would want to address the bar position so that could never happen. Speedbumps and all...

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Yeah that's why I asked - because the M3 bushings by their very nature bind, which is why I prefer using aftermarket poly bushings like Powerflex black. I don't like having to pre-set the bar height before tightening down the bushing brackets every time you adjust the ride height. With fresh, lubed poly bushings you don't need to worry about that.

I bring this all up because it sounds like you solved for the binding issue by setting bar position where there was no binding at ride height. Instead you should set bar position according to the optimal bar end location at ride height and then adjust the endlinks. If you are getting binding, solve for that with fresh bushings and not by setting the wrong bar position as a band aid for a separate issue.

Even though the bar interference with the adjustment rod is only at full droop, I still would want to address the bar position so that could never happen. Speedbumps and all...

Yeah, sounds like the best way to attach this. Luckily not expensive or very time consuming.

[ashmostro]

New bushings shouldn't set you back more than 70 for fancy ones, and the front location is really easy to work on.