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      09-10-2019, 04:37 PM   #1
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Control Arms Replacement - Front Only or Rear as Well?

My original front control arms bushings are worn out.

Looking to replace them with M3 versions. Should I be considering upgrading the rear control arms as well? Is there any benefit for that? If there is sufficient improvement in handling, I'll do it, but rather avoid unnecessary upgrades.

Tie rods are also due for replacement. Should I stick with the OE parts? Any recommendations there?
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      09-10-2019, 11:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by BMWTF? View Post
My original front control arms bushings are worn out.

Looking to replace them with M3 versions. Should I be considering upgrading the rear control arms as well? Is there any benefit for that? If there is sufficient improvement in handling, I'll do it, but rather avoid unnecessary upgrades.

Tie rods are also due for replacement. Should I stick with the OE parts? Any recommendations there?
Yes, do front and rear at the same time. May as well do the tie rod ends at the same time so you only have to do an alignment once.

A word of caution if you're going to DIY, make absolutely certain you follow the torque specs. Also, These are all 1 time use bolts so order the Control arm kit from FCP along with a Control arm bolt kit.

I can be a real challenge getting the bolts aligned properly in the knuckle so be careful not to cross-thread anything.

I over torqued one of mine and the damn bolt sheered off while driving on the interstate!!

Also, have the alignment done to M3 specs in order to get the most out of it.
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      09-11-2019, 12:50 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVC View Post
Yes, do front and rear at the same time. May as well do the tie rod ends at the same time so you only have to do an alignment once.

A word of caution if you're going to DIY, make absolutely certain you follow the torque specs. Also, These are all 1 time use bolts so order the Control arm kit from FCP along with a Control arm bolt kit.

I can be a real challenge getting the bolts aligned properly in the knuckle so be careful not to cross-thread anything.

I over torqued one of mine and the damn bolt sheered off while driving on the interstate!!

Also, have the alignment done to M3 specs in order to get the most out of it.

Thanks for the heads up about bolts and torque - I wasn't aware of that.

Any thoughts on which tie rods to use? Some mentioned to go with M3 versions, but I can't find info on what is the benefit/difference.
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      09-11-2019, 03:16 AM   #4
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I would skip the rear ones, unless you have nothing else to spend on and yours are ok... rear support frame bushings do much more to handling imo (inserts, M3, PFlex or even aluminium to choose from)... however for me after changing everything the major upgrade was the lock-down kit to control the diff movement... no more WOT steering, car feels planted now...
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      09-11-2019, 06:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetpro View Post
I would skip the rear ones, unless you have nothing else to spend on and yours are ok... rear support frame bushings do much more to handling imo (inserts, M3, PFlex or even aluminium to choose from)... however for me after changing everything the major upgrade was the lock-down kit to control the diff movement... no more WOT steering, car feels planted now...
So if u only do m3 front arms would you still do the m3 alignment as well ?
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      09-12-2019, 03:12 AM   #6
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For the front axle yes, rear stays the same no matter what you change (commonly replaced rear M3 arms have the same length).
Cost/effect on good handling (imo):
Front M3 arms - 50%
Rear support bushings - 30%
Diff Lock-down kit - 10%
Rear M3 arms - 5%
Rear toe arms (aftermarket) - 5%
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