DIY: Front door lock actuator replacement (E90)

branmace · 08-15-2012, 11:48 PM

OP, thanks for the write up and pictures. This was very helpful and only took me an hour. Door works like a charm.

Important!!! Open window, roll it down, 4", remove both 10mm window actuator screws and slide it away from the door lock actuator (inside the door) to give you the room to slide out the lock actuator. I did disconnect the battery once I lowered the window.

MIKEYPAUL · 08-18-2012, 11:55 AM

Let me start by saying Thank you for all for contributing to this post especially the OP. This has made things a lot easier. Now to my problem. To start with my door locks stopped working. I replaced the fuse with a 20 amp fuse and that got all my doors working except the drivers door. When locking the doors with the fob the drivers door made a clicking noise but wouldn't lock. I replaced the actuator today, part 51-21-7-318-421 207D purchased from Tomkinson BMW Parts.com. I have everything back together and now none of my doors will lock or unlock with the fob or the button in the car. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors. When using the fob or the button in the car all the doors make a noise but nothing happens. I checked the fuses and they all look good.

Any help will be appreciated!!

Thanks,
Mike

MIKEYPAUL · 08-18-2012, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIKEYPAUL

Let me start by saying Thank you for all for contributing to this post especially the OP. This has made things a lot easier. Now to my problem. To start with my door locks stopped working. I replaced the fuse with a 20 amp fuse and that got all my doors working except the drivers door. When locking the doors with the fob the drivers door made a clicking noise but wouldn't lock. I replaced the actuator today, part 51-21-7-318-421 207D purchased from Tomkinson BMW Parts.com. I have everything back together and now none of my doors will lock or unlock with the fob or the button in the car. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors. When using the fob or the button in the car all the doors make a noise but nothing happens. I checked the fuses and they all look good.

Any help will be appreciated!!

Thanks,
Mike

UPDATE: I disconnected the new actuator and the other door locks will work. I reconnected (I didn't reinstall, just connected the main connector) the old actuator and nothing works. I thought the new actuator may be bad, but when I connect the old one now nothing works, where as before I started all the other doors except the drivers door worked and it was connected at that time.

Also, in my research im finding that part number 51217272999 is for both actuators which is cheaper than just the one. Can any confirm this is correct, and will it work on my 2006 325i?

Thanks
Mike

e90-ZeRo · 08-19-2012, 01:32 AM

My rear left door actuator is busted. I can't open the door whatsoever so that means i'm going to have to figure out a way to unlock the door from the paneling...

Anyone know how to do it before I waste a few beers trying to hack away at this?

MIKEYPAUL · 08-24-2012, 06:46 PM

UPDATE: I got a new actuator and its doing the same thing. I did confirm that 51217272999 is the part number for both left and right actuators. My local BMW offered to sell me the kit for $65.00.

I'm not sure what my problem is. If i connect the cable to the driver side actuator nothing works. When I hit the unlock button they all click, even the new actuator but they don't unlock. Nothing happens when I click the lock button. If I disconnect the cable from the new actuator the other 3 doors will lock and unlock.

If I don't find out something soon, I guess I will be taking her into the the shop. If anyone has any idea's please let me know.

Thanks,
Mike

MIKEYPAUL · 08-24-2012, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIKEYPAUL

UPDATE: I got a new actuator and its doing the same thing. I did confirm that 51217272999 is the part number for both left and right actuators. My local BMW offered to sell me the kit for $65.00.

I'm not sure what my problem is. If i connect the cable to the driver side actuator nothing works. When I hit the unlock button they all click, even the new actuator but they don't unlock. Nothing happens when I click the lock button. If I disconnect the cable from the new actuator the other 3 doors will lock and unlock.

If I don't find out something soon, I guess I will be taking her into the the shop. If anyone has any idea's please let me know.

Thanks,
Mike

My gas lid makes a noise when hitting the lock button on the fob, so I thought maybe that actuator is going bad. I unhooked it and hooked everything else up. Still no go. Finally I get frustrated and decide to put everything back together and call it a night. Guess what, Everything worked, except I didn't hook the cable correctly that opens the door when using the outside latch.

I took the door panel back off, and got it working. Put everything back together and now I'm back to square one. Nothing is working. I connected the inside door latch back, I connected the cable back into the actuator. I connected the window power buttons, I connected the 2 cables to the speaker.

If only I had connect that one cable correctly Id be kicked back on the couch now. I disconnected the battery and going to leave it for a few minutes and see if that will have any affect on it.

e90-ZeRo · 08-26-2012, 08:02 PM

Hey everyone,

I've been trying to replace my Rear Right Door Lock Actuator for the past week with no results. I used this guide, along with the one to replace the Window Regulator (which I did last week) to gain access to the Door Lock Actuator.

View post on imgur.com

Basically i've hit a wall, so-to-speak here, with my experience trying to replace my Rear Right Door lock actuator. My problem is that though I have complete access to the Door Lock Actuator via the removed paneling of the interior door frame, I cannot open the door, mechanically, because the Door Lock Actuator is STUCK or CEASED in the 'Locked' Position. I believe that the gears or something inside the Door Lock Actuator part, are broken and sadly I am not able to manipulate the actuator to open it.

In this scenario, i'm familiar that Google keyword of 'ceased door lock' is most appropriate. However, all relevant material, have not been particularly helpful in allowing me to progress any further. Anyway, what I found out through reading the aforementioned posts is that with a small flathead screw driver, you should be able to manipulate the door lock using the interior gears to move the door lock in and out of locked and unlocked (See Red Circle). However, unfortunately for me, because the gears are supposedly broken, I cannot 'unlock' the door lock actuator this way and this is where I am stuck.

View post on imgur.com

Naturally, before arriving at such a conclusion, is that I tried messing around with two levers located on the sides of the Door Lock Actuator. They seem to function to some degree, but I am unsure if they actually work. This picture is me holding the new, replacement OEM Door Lock Actuator, comparing it to the broken, mounted Door Lock Actuator located in/on the interior door frame.

View post on imgur.com

Being that the levers do not work at the local level, I can dismiss the notion that the issue is due to the Bowden Cable

View post on imgur.com

I'm really stuck here. I don't know what to do.

Now before anyone asks or mentions if I had replaced the fuses, I will say that I have physically inspected all of the relevant fuses: 2, 19, 56, 57, and 63 they all seem to be fine from a quick removal and inspection. I had texted my newly acquainted mechanic friends at the BMW dealership I purchased my car at to get some clarification -- I didn't wanna basically get privileged information but I wanted to be put on the right track: He said that I should check the pins in the actuator connector, after that, check the fuse voltages, with a multimeter. This I haven't done yet, but I intend to do this check tonight when it gets cooler because it's really hot out today haha.

I guess I could preemptively replace all the fuses, but that wouldn't rule out a cable power supply issue...

desolatax · 08-29-2012, 12:24 PM

Thanks

Siper2 · 09-21-2012, 04:46 PM

Great DIY. I'm about to do this, probably tomorrow, for my front-right door. I have two questions:

1. Is unhooking the battery absolutely necessary? I don't mind, but see that some have, and some haven't.

2. Did anyone replace the adhesive under the trim panel? I found this E90 trim panel removal video for a non-USA car, and the guy was a BMW tech and recommended replacing the adhesive, and using a roller to re-stick it.

flexspec · 11-07-2012, 05:14 PM

This was an excellent post. Down to every detail including the tricky black clip (for the power window buttons) behind the door panel.

The longest part of the ordeal was removing the vapor barrier using a blade. I wanted to make sure when it was time to put it back on that there was good contact with the glue - so I took care to cut in the middle of the glue as I reflected the vapor barrier.

Recommendations:

1. Very important - Check out these detailed photos with arrows and very helpful tips to help with this DIY.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...4&postcount=40

2. In the following step:

The door lock was removed by removing the small circular cover on the side of the door and removing the 4 mm Allen bolt. As far as I can tell, you must remove this first or the actuator will not come out. this is referring to the keyhole piece. the allen bolt should come out all the way, be careful it doesn't drop inside the door panel.

I didn't remove the allen bolt all the way. It's not necessary. Remove the allen bolt just enough for the keyhole piece to be slipped out. The allen bolt will remain in place and avoid the risk of having it drop inside of the door panel.

3. If you get stuck at a step, re-read the instructions and look at the photos. Very helpful and i'm not a very technical person, I'm in the medical industry by profession. But I do follow instructions.

I ordered the parts from Circle BMW (Chris - very helpful guy, and extremely nice, helped me to diagnose my problem) - shipping for all items was only $14 (two day).
http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/index.htm

()= list price, [] price I paid
Actuator - ($100.50), [$80.40]
Microfilter (with activated carbon) - ($51.80), [$41.40] (also used the microfilter guide on this forum and the reset maintenance instructions on this forum)
Wiper Blades - Left ($16.60), [$13.28], Right ($15.50), [12.40]
Alcantara Sports Steering Wheel Trim - ($97.00), [77.60] (also used the steering wheel guide on this forum)

I ordered the Trim Tools from Harbor Freight for $6.99 + $6.99 shipping (turns out they are the same ones being sold at a BMW website listed on here for $12 + $14 shipping). Saves a little $$. I purchased all the tools I needed from Harbor Freight. There is a 20% coupon off a single item if you do a google search.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html

Hope that helps someone. And thanks again to the original poster.
BTW, I did the entire job in 2 hours. If I had to do it again, it would take me under an hour.

flexspec · 11-07-2012, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TyPe-ZeRo

Hey everyone,

I've been trying to replace my Rear Right Door Lock Actuator for the past week with no results. I used this guide, along with the one to replace the Window Regulator (which I did last week) to gain access to the Door Lock Actuator.

Basically i've hit a wall, so-to-speak here, with my experience trying to replace my Rear Right Door lock actuator. My problem is that though I have complete access to the Door Lock Actuator via the removed paneling of the interior door frame, I cannot open the door, mechanically, because the Door Lock Actuator is STUCK or CEASED in the 'Locked' Position. I believe that the gears or something inside the Door Lock Actuator part, are broken and sadly I am not able to manipulate the actuator to open it.

In this scenario, i'm familiar that Google keyword of 'ceased door lock' is most appropriate. However, all relevant material, have not been particularly helpful in allowing me to progress any further. Anyway, what I found out through reading the aforementioned posts is that with a small flathead screw driver, you should be able to manipulate the door lock using the interior gears to move the door lock in and out of locked and unlocked (See Red Circle). However, unfortunately for me, because the gears are supposedly broken, I cannot 'unlock' the door lock actuator this way and this is where I am stuck.

Naturally, before arriving at such a conclusion, is that I tried messing around with two levers located on the sides of the Door Lock Actuator. They seem to function to some degree, but I am unsure if they actually work. This picture is me holding the new, replacement OEM Door Lock Actuator, comparing it to the broken, mounted Door Lock Actuator located in/on the interior door frame.

Being that the levers do not work at the local level, I can dismiss the notion that the issue is due to the Bowden Cable

I'm really stuck here. I don't know what to do.

Now before anyone asks or mentions if I had replaced the fuses, I will say that I have physically inspected all of the relevant fuses: 2, 19, 56, 57, and 63 they all seem to be fine from a quick removal and inspection. I had texted my newly acquainted mechanic friends at the BMW dealership I purchased my car at to get some clarification -- I didn't wanna basically get privileged information but I wanted to be put on the right track: He said that I should check the pins in the actuator connector, after that, check the fuse voltages, with a multimeter. This I haven't done yet, but I intend to do this check tonight when it gets cooler because it's really hot out today haha.

I guess I could preemptively replace all the fuses, but that wouldn't rule out a cable power supply issue...

This seems to have occurred to several people (don't know how). But it seems the solution is a combination of picking the actuator. I'm sure you can look at the photos and create a solution. But here's an inside look.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=42

voyager · 11-08-2012, 07:52 PM

Thanks again for all the contibutors to this DIY!
I did this today on the drivers side door and had the same issue with the other doors not working when the new module was plugged in. I have comfort access so i dont know if that was a contributing factor. my solution was to use the stalk to go into the menus and change any setting for door locks, I then went to the next menu option and pressed reset, then pull the battery cable in the trunk for a few minutes. once the cable was re-installed all the locks worked as intended. (I had to set the clock though....)

e90-ZeRo · 11-18-2012, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceweasel

This seems to have occurred to several people (don't know how). But it seems the solution is a combination of picking the actuator. I'm sure you can look at the photos and create a solution. But here's an inside look.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=42

Honestly, after 3 months of still not having resolved the issue on myself (i'm stubborn), I feel like taking a power drill to the bad mother, and encouraging it to to come off that way

e90gene · 12-02-2012, 04:27 PM

Great DIY. It helped me a lot to replace the driver door lock actuator. I have 2008 328i and suddenly the driver door lock stopped unlocking with a key fob from outside. It was locking with a key fob from outside but did not lock with a central locking button from inside which was kind of strange. Fuse 73 was already 20Amp and was not blown so I figured that actuator is malfunctioning and decided to replace it.

Couple tips about the DIY.

1. It's not required to unhook the window. I had my window down 1" all the time. As others already mentioned just unscrew the guidance on a bottom and loosen the top bolt. Push it in and on a right and remove the actuator. It is possible to remove the actuator this way.

2. The allen bolt for door lock does not have to be removed but has to be unscrewed completely and pulled out to remove the door lock. Be careful pulling it out, do not drop. Once door lock removed use an electrical tape to wrap it so it won't drop inside the door.

3. There is window wire attached to an actuator in two places. Be patient when removing it as it's very easy to brake. Pull it to an opposite side out of a hole where those are inserted. It might take some time but it will eventually come out.

simes205 · 04-03-2013, 12:43 PM

Tackled this today.

Only remove half the weather proofing.
Put the window all the way up.
No need to remove glass.
Door lock is useful though to get the actuator out.

However the new part from BMW needs the threads tapped (m6x1.0) in it so that the existing 3 machine screws can be used. This is because the part comes 'unthreaded'!. I suppose it saves costs?

cdothill · 04-04-2013, 02:26 PM

Did this saturday on the driver door-- great diy! i have never done anything like this by myself before so the diy was awesome.

things to note:
* as others have stated, no need to remove the window- or even all that 2 inches/4 inches stuff. my window was up all the way and that worked just fine.

* maybe i was having a slow moment, but, since i skipped the window portion, i also overlooked the SUPER important note of moving the black metal piece (window guide?) that is completely in the way of taking the actuator out. i spent FOREVER trying to "easily slide the actuator out down by the spongy thing"-- as, without unscrewing and maneuvering this metal piece out the way, you will NEVER get the actuator out lol

i wanted to add that as a note as, had i known that, that would have easily knocked a good 45 minutes off of my time and i know i cant be the only person who overlooked that step.

all in all, while it took me close to 4 hours to do this, lol, doing it again would only take me like 45 easy.

Siper2 · 04-09-2013, 11:12 AM

As I posted a few days ago...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=151

...my right-side door lock miraculously fixed itself.

Is that bizarre, or what?

ilgidi · 04-15-2013, 02:23 AM

I have a similar(ish) problem. In my case it's the rear passenger door that's not opening with the key fob and inside button. However, mine does not open at all. If I try to open it using the inside handle it doesn't open. The handle feels like it's trying to pull up the lock as it should do but doesn't actually do it. Hell I'm stuck with a closed door. Then after trying a combination of trying to open while unlocking with the fob I managed to open it. Only to then have all locks not working with the fob for a couple of minutes. Then everything started working again except the faulty door. Any tips before I start dismantling the door? It's annoying to leave it like this as the door is not operational at all. I have two kids and to have them going in from one side to have them stepping on my seats is not something I enjoy watching.

Thanks

paplu · 04-21-2013, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilgidi

I have a similar(ish) problem. In my case it's the rear passenger door that's not opening with the key fob and inside button. However, mine does not open at all. If I try to open it using the inside handle it doesn't open. The handle feels like it's trying to pull up the lock as it should do but doesn't actually do it. Hell I'm stuck with a closed door. Then after trying a combination of trying to open while unlocking with the fob I managed to open it. Only to then have all locks not working with the fob for a couple of minutes. Then everything started working again except the faulty door. Any tips before I start dismantling the door? It's annoying to leave it like this as the door is not operational at all. I have two kids and to have them going in from one side to have them stepping on my seats is not something I enjoy watching.

Thanks

To be honest i would suggest replacing the actuators.
ran into same problem early this week. just got replacing all front and rear passenger.
The total cost was ~160.
~74 for the front set and 74 fro the rear passenger.
and 1.09 for the 15 amp fuze.

the rear door is the easiest. took about 25 minutes to replace. well i had replaced the window regulator before so i knew how to go about.

the driver side is the hardest.

Many thanks to the OP for the DIY.

by the way if you run into any problems PM me.

jorgi · 06-06-2013, 05:16 PM

Hello guys!
I'm new here, and I have the same problem with the left rear door. The door is locked and I can not open. I have checked the fuses, and even dismantled the Panel of the door. My question is: how did they open the door in these conditions?

.fLip. · 06-10-2013, 08:59 AM

going to check my fuses today and if not. I will order the part

but sheesh I cant find the actuator on getbmwparts for 40 bucks lol. its like 70. oh well

bateman1234 · 07-10-2013, 07:14 AM

I have exactly the same problem: the driver's door will not open, but locking with key fob is not a problem. All fuses checked - no. 56 and no. 57 have original amperage and seem fine.

From what you're saying the problem was a blown actuator motor - is it even possible if only unlocking does not work and locking still works? Are there two separate motors independently responsible for locking and unlocking? Does anyone know?

Let me know, I'm getting ready to fix it myself, just wondering if spraying some WD40 on the lock would do the fix.

08-15-2012, 11:48 PM	#45
branmace Private First Class 6 Rep 106 Posts Drives: E90 330i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: SLC, UT iTrader: (0)	OP, thanks for the write up and pictures. This was very helpful and only took me an hour. Door works like a charm. Important!!! Open window, roll it down, 4", remove both 10mm window actuator screws and slide it away from the door lock actuator (inside the door) to give you the room to slide out the lock actuator. I did disconnect the battery once I lowered the window.
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08-18-2012, 11:55 AM	#46
MIKEYPAUL Registered 0 Rep 4 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Abingdon, VA iTrader: (0)	Let me start by saying Thank you for all for contributing to this post especially the OP. This has made things a lot easier. Now to my problem. To start with my door locks stopped working. I replaced the fuse with a 20 amp fuse and that got all my doors working except the drivers door. When locking the doors with the fob the drivers door made a clicking noise but wouldn't lock. I replaced the actuator today, part 51-21-7-318-421 207D purchased from Tomkinson BMW Parts.com. I have everything back together and now none of my doors will lock or unlock with the fob or the button in the car. I can manually lock and unlock all the doors. When using the fob or the button in the car all the doors make a noise but nothing happens. I checked the fuses and they all look good. Any help will be appreciated!! Thanks, Mike Last edited by MIKEYPAUL; 08-18-2012 at 12:57 PM..
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08-19-2012, 01:32 AM	#48
e90-ZeRo Prone to sudden bursts of acceleration 16 Rep 244 Posts Drives: 3-Series Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0)	My rear left door actuator is busted. I can't open the door whatsoever so that means i'm going to have to figure out a way to unlock the door from the paneling... Anyone know how to do it before I waste a few beers trying to hack away at this?
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08-24-2012, 06:46 PM	#49
MIKEYPAUL Registered 0 Rep 4 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Abingdon, VA iTrader: (0)	UPDATE: I got a new actuator and its doing the same thing. I did confirm that 51217272999 is the part number for both left and right actuators. My local BMW offered to sell me the kit for $65.00. I'm not sure what my problem is. If i connect the cable to the driver side actuator nothing works. When I hit the unlock button they all click, even the new actuator but they don't unlock. Nothing happens when I click the lock button. If I disconnect the cable from the new actuator the other 3 doors will lock and unlock. If I don't find out something soon, I guess I will be taking her into the the shop. If anyone has any idea's please let me know. Thanks, Mike
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08-26-2012, 08:02 PM	#51
e90-ZeRo Prone to sudden bursts of acceleration 16 Rep 244 Posts Drives: 3-Series Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0)	Hey everyone, I've been trying to replace my Rear Right Door Lock Actuator for the past week with no results. I used this guide, along with the one to replace the Window Regulator (which I did last week) to gain access to the Door Lock Actuator. View post on imgur.com Basically i've hit a wall, so-to-speak here, with my experience trying to replace my Rear Right Door lock actuator. My problem is that though I have complete access to the Door Lock Actuator via the removed paneling of the interior door frame, I cannot open the door, mechanically, because the Door Lock Actuator is STUCK or CEASED in the 'Locked' Position. I believe that the gears or something inside the Door Lock Actuator part, are broken and sadly I am not able to manipulate the actuator to open it. In this scenario, i'm familiar that Google keyword of 'ceased door lock' is most appropriate. However, all relevant material, have not been particularly helpful in allowing me to progress any further. Anyway, what I found out through reading the aforementioned posts is that with a small flathead screw driver, you should be able to manipulate the door lock using the interior gears to move the door lock in and out of locked and unlocked (See Red Circle). However, unfortunately for me, because the gears are supposedly broken, I cannot 'unlock' the door lock actuator this way and this is where I am stuck. View post on imgur.com Naturally, before arriving at such a conclusion, is that I tried messing around with two levers located on the sides of the Door Lock Actuator. They seem to function to some degree, but I am unsure if they actually work. This picture is me holding the new, replacement OEM Door Lock Actuator, comparing it to the broken, mounted Door Lock Actuator located in/on the interior door frame. View post on imgur.com Being that the levers do not work at the local level, I can dismiss the notion that the issue is due to the Bowden Cable View post on imgur.com I'm really stuck here. I don't know what to do. Now before anyone asks or mentions if I had replaced the fuses, I will say that I have physically inspected all of the relevant fuses: 2, 19, 56, 57, and 63 they all seem to be fine from a quick removal and inspection. I had texted my newly acquainted mechanic friends at the BMW dealership I purchased my car at to get some clarification -- I didn't wanna basically get privileged information but I wanted to be put on the right track: He said that I should check the pins in the actuator connector, after that, check the fuse voltages, with a multimeter. This I haven't done yet, but I intend to do this check tonight when it gets cooler because it's really hot out today haha. I guess I could preemptively replace all the fuses, but that wouldn't rule out a cable power supply issue... Last edited by e90-ZeRo; 08-26-2012 at 08:30 PM..
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08-29-2012, 12:24 PM	#52
desolatax Enlisted Member 9 Rep 46 Posts Drives: '14 328d xdrive Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Canada iTrader: (0)	Thanks
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09-21-2012, 04:46 PM	#53
Siper2 Private 2 Rep 58 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328xi wagon Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Harrisburg, PA iTrader: (0)	Great DIY. I'm about to do this, probably tomorrow, for my front-right door. I have two questions: 1. Is unhooking the battery absolutely necessary? I don't mind, but see that some have, and some haven't. 2. Did anyone replace the adhesive under the trim panel? I found this E90 trim panel removal video for a non-USA car, and the guy was a BMW tech and recommended replacing the adhesive, and using a roller to re-stick it.
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11-07-2012, 05:14 PM	#54
flexspec Second Lieutenant 367 Rep 257 Posts Drives: F80 M3, E90 330i Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (4)	This was an excellent post. Down to every detail including the tricky black clip (for the power window buttons) behind the door panel. The longest part of the ordeal was removing the vapor barrier using a blade. I wanted to make sure when it was time to put it back on that there was good contact with the glue - so I took care to cut in the middle of the glue as I reflected the vapor barrier. Recommendations: 1. Very important - Check out these detailed photos with arrows and very helpful tips to help with this DIY. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...4&postcount=40 2. In the following step: The door lock was removed by removing the small circular cover on the side of the door and removing the 4 mm Allen bolt. As far as I can tell, you must remove this first or the actuator will not come out. this is referring to the keyhole piece. the allen bolt should come out all the way, be careful it doesn't drop inside the door panel. I didn't remove the allen bolt all the way. It's not necessary. Remove the allen bolt just enough for the keyhole piece to be slipped out. The allen bolt will remain in place and avoid the risk of having it drop inside of the door panel. 3. If you get stuck at a step, re-read the instructions and look at the photos. Very helpful and i'm not a very technical person, I'm in the medical industry by profession. But I do follow instructions. I ordered the parts from Circle BMW (Chris - very helpful guy, and extremely nice, helped me to diagnose my problem) - shipping for all items was only $14 (two day). http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/index.htm ()= list price, [] price I paid Actuator - ($100.50), [$80.40] Microfilter (with activated carbon) - ($51.80), [$41.40] (also used the microfilter guide on this forum and the reset maintenance instructions on this forum) Wiper Blades - Left ($16.60), [$13.28], Right ($15.50), [12.40] Alcantara Sports Steering Wheel Trim - ($97.00), [77.60] (also used the steering wheel guide on this forum) I ordered the Trim Tools from Harbor Freight for $6.99 + $6.99 shipping (turns out they are the same ones being sold at a BMW website listed on here for $12 + $14 shipping). Saves a little $$. I purchased all the tools I needed from Harbor Freight. There is a 20% coupon off a single item if you do a google search. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html Hope that helps someone. And thanks again to the original poster. BTW, I did the entire job in 2 hours. If I had to do it again, it would take me under an hour. Last edited by flexspec; 11-10-2012 at 11:14 AM..
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11-08-2012, 07:52 PM	#56
voyager lurking variable 0 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 06 330i/sport/prem/sat/CA Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: wake forest, NC iTrader: (0)	Thanks again for all the contibutors to this DIY! I did this today on the drivers side door and had the same issue with the other doors not working when the new module was plugged in. I have comfort access so i dont know if that was a contributing factor. my solution was to use the stalk to go into the menus and change any setting for door locks, I then went to the next menu option and pressed reset, then pull the battery cable in the trunk for a few minutes. once the cable was re-installed all the locks worked as intended. (I had to set the clock though....)
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12-02-2012, 04:27 PM	#58
e90gene Private 3 Rep 68 Posts Drives: 2008 328i and 2016 X5 3.5i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: seattle wa iTrader: (1)	Great DIY. It helped me a lot to replace the driver door lock actuator. I have 2008 328i and suddenly the driver door lock stopped unlocking with a key fob from outside. It was locking with a key fob from outside but did not lock with a central locking button from inside which was kind of strange. Fuse 73 was already 20Amp and was not blown so I figured that actuator is malfunctioning and decided to replace it. Couple tips about the DIY. 1. It's not required to unhook the window. I had my window down 1" all the time. As others already mentioned just unscrew the guidance on a bottom and loosen the top bolt. Push it in and on a right and remove the actuator. It is possible to remove the actuator this way. 2. The allen bolt for door lock does not have to be removed but has to be unscrewed completely and pulled out to remove the door lock. Be careful pulling it out, do not drop. Once door lock removed use an electrical tape to wrap it so it won't drop inside the door. 3. There is window wire attached to an actuator in two places. Be patient when removing it as it's very easy to brake. Pull it to an opposite side out of a hole where those are inserted. It might take some time but it will eventually come out. Last edited by e90gene; 12-02-2012 at 05:58 PM..
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04-03-2013, 12:43 PM	#59
simes205 Enlisted Member 2 Rep 35 Posts Drives: 320D F31 Msport Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Surrey iTrader: (0)	Tackled this today. Only remove half the weather proofing. Put the window all the way up. No need to remove glass. Door lock is useful though to get the actuator out. However the new part from BMW needs the threads tapped (m6x1.0) in it so that the existing 3 machine screws can be used. This is because the part comes 'unthreaded'!. I suppose it saves costs?
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04-04-2013, 02:26 PM	#60
cdothill New Member 0 Rep 15 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: dallas iTrader: (0) Garage List 2001 X5 [0.00] 2012 328i [0.00]	Did this saturday on the driver door-- great diy! i have never done anything like this by myself before so the diy was awesome. things to note: * as others have stated, no need to remove the window- or even all that 2 inches/4 inches stuff. my window was up all the way and that worked just fine. * maybe i was having a slow moment, but, since i skipped the window portion, i also overlooked the SUPER important note of moving the black metal piece (window guide?) that is completely in the way of taking the actuator out. i spent FOREVER trying to "easily slide the actuator out down by the spongy thing"-- as, without unscrewing and maneuvering this metal piece out the way, you will NEVER get the actuator out lol i wanted to add that as a note as, had i known that, that would have easily knocked a good 45 minutes off of my time and i know i cant be the only person who overlooked that step. all in all, while it took me close to 4 hours to do this, lol, doing it again would only take me like 45 easy.
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04-09-2013, 11:12 AM	#61
Siper2 Private 2 Rep 58 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328xi wagon Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Harrisburg, PA iTrader: (0)	As I posted a few days ago... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=151 ...my right-side door lock miraculously fixed itself. Is that bizarre, or what?
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04-15-2013, 02:23 AM	#62
ilgidi New Member 3 Rep 24 Posts Drives: E91 320D Touring Msport Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Malta iTrader: (0)	SImilar Problem I have a similar(ish) problem. In my case it's the rear passenger door that's not opening with the key fob and inside button. However, mine does not open at all. If I try to open it using the inside handle it doesn't open. The handle feels like it's trying to pull up the lock as it should do but doesn't actually do it. Hell I'm stuck with a closed door. Then after trying a combination of trying to open while unlocking with the fob I managed to open it. Only to then have all locks not working with the fob for a couple of minutes. Then everything started working again except the faulty door. Any tips before I start dismantling the door? It's annoying to leave it like this as the door is not operational at all. I have two kids and to have them going in from one side to have them stepping on my seats is not something I enjoy watching. Thanks
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06-06-2013, 05:16 PM	#64
jorgi Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW E91 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Portugal. iTrader: (0)	Hello guys! I'm new here, and I have the same problem with the left rear door. The door is locked and I can not open. I have checked the fuses, and even dismantled the Panel of the door. My question is: how did they open the door in these conditions?
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06-10-2013, 08:59 AM	#65
.fLip. no more coupe :( 20 Rep 1,030 Posts Drives: e90 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Miami iTrader: (0)	going to check my fuses today and if not. I will order the part but sheesh I cant find the actuator on getbmwparts for 40 bucks lol. its like 70. oh well
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07-10-2013, 07:14 AM	#66
bateman1234 New Member 3 Rep 14 Posts Drives: E90 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Dundee iTrader: (0)	Driver door won't unlock I have exactly the same problem: the driver's door will not open, but locking with key fob is not a problem. All fuses checked - no. 56 and no. 57 have original amperage and seem fine. From what you're saying the problem was a blown actuator motor - is it even possible if only unlocking does not work and locking still works? Are there two separate motors independently responsible for locking and unlocking? Does anyone know? Let me know, I'm getting ready to fix it myself, just wondering if spraying some WD40 on the lock would do the fix.
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