[thesalboy]

I think I've put enough miles on the car that I'd get a 2A82/2A87 (at least pending) if the original issue returned, but I haven't. I'll monitor it and advise if I do.

So for my self-inflicted nightmare, at least I can add to the body of knowledge (beyond what symptoms show if you cross wires) that, in addition to or even instead of spraying a suspect VANOS solenoid with brake cleaner, activate it with a battery and jumpers (on-off-on-off-on-off, repeatedly) to relieve any stickiness before replacing it with a new solenoid.

And if I'm feeling daffy and have no other cars to work on, I'll swap in the Pierburg solenoids to see how they do (when correctly wired).

[gordon513]

Hi all - I have a very similar issue - have a thread started here https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...5#post28591945

Any advise would be much appreciated!

Many thanks

[rubberneck7]

Hey guys,
I'm trying to figure out my wife's 06 325i e90. I'm getting a code that says Vanos Intake. I replaced it and I get a code for Vanos Exhaust. I replaced that one also. Now it's back to intake...... I've also cleaned the Vanos filters. It's running better but at stop signs or lights, it chugs and searches for a happy place but doesn't seem to get there.
Any suggestions would be SO appreciated!!!
Thanks in advance!!

[thesalboy]

I still have the original VANOS solenoids in the car (and brand new ones in a box in the garage). Since cycling them using a battery and leads, I've not had a 2A82/2A87. I'd think you don't even need to remove them to do this. Just be careful and don't bridge the terminals.

[StradaRedlands]

Aaaaaaaand looks like I get to join Club 2A82!!! No CEL yet, but I did a scan on the Foxwell and it showed up today. Yay! 2006 330i with 224,xxx miles on the car/engine. I just cleaned the VANOS solenoids and put in new seals when I did the OFHG a few months ago. Before I start throwing parts at it, I checked the oil filter cap and it's loose, but intact. Is that the normal amount of play there? I never really noticed or looked at it before, so don't know if that's normal or excessive/problematic. Does this seem like a place to start?
I guess order of operation is new cap -> solenoids -> check valves -> donate car to NPR?

[thesalboy]

Power cycle the solenoid to make sure it operates freely. Mine was sluggish at first, and since I did this, no code.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by thesalboy

Power cycle the solenoid to make sure it operates freely. Mine was sluggish at first, and since I did this, no code.

That would be the best fix! I don't mind putting in a new one, at this mileage/age it's well earned! Just dreading going down the rabbit hole to find a fix!!!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

That would be the best fix! I don't mind putting in a new one, at this mileage/age it's well earned! Just dreading going down the rabbit hole to find a fix!!!

I had same code on my N54 engine if it helps. For me it ended up being grooving in my camshaft bearing ledge on the intake. The N52 is double VANOS to I believe the only difference is that on the intake side, the bottom "tray" is built into the head because of valvetronic.

Here's my thread if it helps provide more info. I would start with my basic troubleshooting there I did by swapping the solenoids and see if the codes changes side.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1916575

Also for the N52 specifically, there was an issue at one point with the VANOS gears, the bolts would back off but that was a recall I think.

[StradaRedlands]

thesalboy TheMidnightNarwhal Potential success! I pulled the solenoids, checked continuity and got 12.4 & 12.5, activated them with a jump battery rig, swapped them, cleared the code, and went for a drive.

So far, so good, with no new or pending codes! I'll check again after a few days of driving, but fingers crossed it was just a fluke. I may swap them out preventatively, as I think these are original and have a lot of miles on them. Any feedback on if Pierburg is fine, or go with OE? If I do this, I'll probably swap out the check valves as well.

Thanks for the feedback, suggestions, and motivation to jump in and do this!

[Skyline18]

I, for myself can definetly say that only OEM BMW Original Solenoids are working. I had Vaico ones in before and it was stuttering badly while constant driving and accelerating. Also I had a rough idle.

Now that I replaced both solenoids with original ones i have a rock solid idle and the car performs waaaaay better than before. Feels like 50-60hp more.

So if anyone is thinking of replacing them with vaico/any other brand, forget it. Just go with OEM BMW and your car will give love back to you

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Skyline18

I, for myself can definetly say that only OEM BMW Original Solenoids are working. I had Vaico ones in before and it was stuttering badly while constant driving and accelerating. Also I had a rough idle.

Now that I replaced both solenoids with original ones i have a rock solid idle and the car performs waaaaay better than before. Feels like 50-60hp more.

So if anyone is thinking of replacing them with vaico/any other brand, forget it. Just go with OEM BMW and your car will give love back to you

Noted, thanks!

[awdracer]

My 2012 335IS began to jump into limp mode a couple of months ago. I pulled codes whenever it happened. The majority of the time it was the intake code and on occasion it was the exhaust code. Cobb stage 2+.

I swapped the solenoids and still got mostly intake faults. Then I installed two new OEM solenoids. This did not fix the problem.

Next I had a reputable shop pull the cams and look at the clamshells. Both were grooved and the intake side was worse than the exhaust.

The shop replaced the clamshells and seals and that fixed the problem for about 2000 miles. After about 2K miles of problem free driving the intake VANOS code started showing again. I checked out the oil filter cap and everything was fine. I replaced both VANOS filters on the block. (after reading every post on the subject on this forum that I could find). Then after a lot of discussion I asked the shop to tear down the engine again and guess what.... according to them both clamshells were grooved once again.

They have said that they will cover the price of the clamshells and all of the labor to do the work again. That is great but I have a decent amount of experience tearing down and building motors on other makes of cars and something doesn't ring true. Is it even possible for a groove to form again so quickly? Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

-Scott

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by awdracer

My 2012 335IS began to jump into limp mode a couple of months ago. I pulled codes whenever it happened. The majority of the time it was the intake code and on occasion it was the exhaust code. Cobb stage 2+.

I swapped the solenoids and still got mostly intake faults. Then I installed two new OEM solenoids. This did not fix the problem.

Next I had a reputable shop pull the cams and look at the clamshells. Both were grooved and the intake side was worse than the exhaust.

The shop replaced the clamshells and seals and that fixed the problem for about 2000 miles. After about 2K miles of problem free driving the intake VANOS code started showing again. I checked out the oil filter cap and everything was fine. I replaced both VANOS filters on the block. (after reading every post on the subject on this forum that I could find). Then after a lot of discussion I asked the shop to tear down the engine again and guess what.... according to them both clamshells were grooved once again.

They have said that they will cover the price of the clamshells and all of the labor to do the work again. That is great but I have a decent amount of experience tearing down and building motors on other makes of cars and something doesn't ring true. Is it even possible for a groove to form again so quickly? Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

-Scott

Yeah I have a hard time understanding it as well. Unless the new groove is very slim and they think that is the source of your issue when in fact you could have an issue elsewhere. I say this because when I did my job, my exhaust side was grooved to the point I could catch a finger but decided to leave as is since it didn't throw code and just do my intake side. So it takes a significant groove before it starts not sealing and causing the code.

Also just to make sure, you have the teflon/plastic type seals on the camshafts right now the metal type?

[awdracer]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Yeah I have a hard time understanding it as well. Unless the new groove is very slim and they think that is the source of your issue when in fact you could have an issue elsewhere. I say this because when I did my job, my exhaust side was grooved to the point I could catch a finger but decided to leave as is since it didn't throw code and just do my intake side. So it takes a significant groove before it starts not sealing and causing the code.

Also just to make sure, you have the teflon/plastic type seals on the camshafts right now the metal type?

I am going to the shop to put my eyes on it today. I will confirm that with them and let you know. The comment I got from the shop foreman was that the grooves were "worse than the previous ones".... which defies belief in such a short period of time.

[Suvorovo]

One quick comment, if you post a vanos related code, can you also share a snapshot of the moment the code appears? Engine operating temperature and rpm can provide good insight whether it's a solenoid/check valve issue, sprocket, or at worst, cam ledge bearing.

A year ago (~120k miles?), I had 2a98 code pop up every so often during cold start up from 0C to 19C oil temp, car would fire up to 1700rpm and trigger the code. Replaced solenoids, starts up like a new car.

Vanos Sprocket bolts are not an issue on 3SIM 06 n52b30.
Never seen cam ledge issues on 3SIM 06 n52b30, but you never know who changed oil and how often.
Only get Genuine BMW solenoids. They're on sale sometimes. Picked them up for $150ea at the FCP
I don't think there's an aftermarket solution for vanos check valves. ~$40ea.

Thanks for bringing up the cage, I'll investigate mine on the next oil change.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by awdracer

I am going to the shop to put my eyes on it today. I will confirm that with them and let you know. The comment I got from the shop foreman was that the grooves were "worse than the previous ones".... which defies belief in such a short period of time.

Damn yeah definitely odd. I have theories but I doubt that could really be it, just food for thought. Maybe they did not use assembly lube/oil up the clamshell VANOS area before assembly? Or perhaps they aren't using the C clamp looking special tools that align the clamshell, although I'd assume that would just groove it more like, sideways rather than a normal looking groove. Hopefully you find more info!

Also I personally used a new teflon/plastic type seal on my intake camshaft when I did the job.

[awdracer]

I went to the shop yesterday. The cam ledges were grooved AGAIN. The grooves were very bad and you could see the indention when the clamshells were off. Yes after only about 3K miles. I did confirm that all 4 seals were teflon. The clamshells looked brand new except for the groove. The oil looks like it might be contaminated.... perhaps with bearing metal. I sent a sample of for analysis yesterday.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by awdracer

I went to the shop yesterday. The cam ledges were grooved AGAIN. The grooves were very bad and you could see the indention when the clamshells were off. Yes after only about 3K miles. I did confirm that all 4 seals were teflon. The clamshells looked brand new except for the groove. The oil looks like it might be contaminated.... perhaps with bearing metal. I sent a sample of for analysis yesterday.

Did you check your VANOS "check valves" before doing the job? It's a stretch but maybe they aren't super clean and preventing full oil flow, they have a filter on them.

[muncie21]

My 2008 N54 6MT has recently started throwing a code for the intake vanos (2A82).

Odd part is, it only does this once the engine is warmed up and then only we I slow down, like in stop/go traffic or residential streets. Cruising on the highway the motor seems perfectly happy.

I've already replaced both vanos solenoids with new ones from ECS. Next stop is oil change, oil filter housing cap, followed by oil check valves.

[mariobonc]

Originally Posted by muncie21

My 2008 N54 6MT has recently started throwing a code for the intake vanos (2A82).

Odd part is, it only does this once the engine is warmed up and then only we I slow down, like in stop/go traffic or residential streets. Cruising on the highway the motor seems perfectly happy.

I've already replaced both vanos solenoids with new ones from ECS. Next stop is oil change, oil filter housing cap, followed by oil check valves.

I drive a 2012 Z4 35is at 35k miles only. Everything on the car is stock. I have the very same issue with you. There's no problem with hard pulls, high revs. However when I slow down, I get the 2A82 along with 3100 code. I replaced the Vanos solenoids (OEM), replaced the oil and the oil filter, checked the oil filter cap. Nothing changed. One other possibility is I may need to replace the cam shafts, but that's quite an expensive solution.

[muncie21]

Interested to hear if anyone has found a solution of vanos codes only being thrown after warm-up and low RPM.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by muncie21

Interested to hear if anyone has found a solution of vanos codes only being thrown after warm-up and low RPM.

Yes my symptoms happened pretty much like that. My issue was my intake camshaft bearing ledge tray.