[StradaRedlands]

I am not excited about this, but I think my PCV is going bad. 2006 330i, so has the three stage intake with the PCV underneath it. Symptoms are slightly surging idle (very subtle, but can be felt as well as seeing the blip on the tach), and a whistling sound. It is audible at idle and increases with RPM to the point where engine noise drowns it out. No codes. Am I over-thinking this, or is this it? I dread it as pulling the intake looks like a bear. Doable, but at the edge of my ability for sure.

If this is it, should I do starter and DISAs at the same time? 225k miles on them.

[M-technik-3]

I would plan to do so you will that area open and be able to freely get at things vs having to pull the intake when the starter goes.

[Brian86]

Change it. Bum oil separation system almost killed my engine.

Use something like this to disconnect the drain tube from under the car:
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-l...ece-63595.html

Popping the drain line will allow you to pull the manifold a little farther away from the head, and give a little extra space to reach in and access tubes and screws and nuts.

If I was to do it again, I'd probably throw a fuel purge valve on... while I was in there. Obviously it's a good time to do DISA's, although my car had none of that gobblygook

New O-rings for the injectors, all the manifold gaskets.... The injectors were a TTIIGGHHTT fit into the fuel rail if I remember correctly.

It's tedious, but nothing a shade-tree mechanic with a lot of time can't handle.

Be gentle with the wiring for the PCV heating elements. I have a Beck Arnley stuff on my car. Been good for 65k so far.

-------------

ninja edit:

Forgot to mention... The failed oil separator did ruin my cat's. Liquid oil contamination.

[Suvorovo]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I am not excited about this, but I think my PCV is going bad. 2006 330i, so has the three stage intake with the PCV underneath it. Symptoms are slightly surging idle (very subtle, but can be felt as well as seeing the blip on the tach), and a whistling sound. It is audible at idle and increases with RPM to the point where engine noise drowns it out. No codes. Am I over-thinking this, or is this it? I dread it as pulling the intake looks like a bear. Doable, but at the edge of my ability for sure.

If this is it, should I do starter and DISAs at the same time? 225k miles on them.

Open your oil fill cap while the car is running there should be very slight suction as you open it followed by a fast blublublub sound. The valve should sound like this if it's functioning properly. PCV kit is kinda expensive now on FCP $387 (genuine bmw). I've seen it as low as $300. Follow prices regularly and bought mine on sale. I don't really know/have an opinion if after market is the same quality as genuine BMW. At the end of the day, it's a bunch of tubes and a valve, but i've seen fitment issues with aftermarkets.

I bought my DISAs for $660 at FCP (Black friday). Will replace PCV/DISAs as preventative at 130k miles in the spring. I recently saw some guy selling brand new genuine BMW DISA valves on Ebay for a very good price. Good deals show up, look around. The history of aftermarket disas are a mixed bag, some say they're great and function for years, others had the pin drop into the engine. It's not worth the risk to cheap out on these...

Also, DISAs aren't that hard to replace if you did your PCV. The new connectors will pop off with easy so you can put off that purchase. Mine are at about the mileage when they can fail/start to operate poorly.

[Pittz1]

I did this at 200k. 2006 330xi.

Replaced everything under the intake, to include my starter which was the main reason for the removal. The line that goes to the pan is not bad to disconnect. I bought a new one for piece of mind. Just know this... any new line you get that goes to the oil pan will not have a check ball like your original. I bought everything just in case any of the lines broke. The new lines were a no brainer once I removed the OEM ones. Oily and brittle. Not worth putting them back on.

I did not have to touch injectors. They were fine. You unclip the harness from the injector. Easy, just be mindful of the clips. Whole harness comes up and off.

Bought everything from FCP euro. Both starter bolts did not require any special tools to remove like some people have stated. Might as well throw on a new OFHG while you are doing everything.

Also bought a new crank shaft position sensor. I really did not want to tackle this job again for some time. Just time consuming.

[Brian86]

I got this kit for mine via rockauto:

https://www.amazon.com/BECKARNLEY-04.../dp/B0722NSFQS

Unfortunately it's showing out-of-stock everywhere.

Check valve was present in the drain tube. That was one of the failure points on my old system so I made sure to blow through the new tube to see if it was working properly.

Rockauto is showing a Vaico kit available for $370. I've had bad luck with Vaico anything in the past...

FCP is showing the BMW kit for $375ish. That's probably the one to go with. The check valve may be a before/after 10/2005. If it were me I'd dig into realOEM and make sure to get a check valve regardless of what the car calls for.

[Suvorovo]

Originally Posted by Pittz1

I did this at 200k. 2006 330xi.

Replaced everything under the intake, to include my starter which was the main reason for the removal. The line that goes to the pan is not bad to disconnect. I bought a new one for piece of mind. Just know this... any new line you get that goes to the oil pan will not have a check ball like your original. I bought everything just in case any of the lines broke. The new lines were a no brainer once I removed the OEM ones. Oily and brittle. Not worth putting them back on.

I did not have to touch injectors. They were fine. You unclip the harness from the injector. Easy, just be mindful of the clips. Whole harness comes up and off.

Bought everything from FCP euro. Both starter bolts did not require any special tools to remove like some people have stated. Might as well throw on a new OFHG while you are doing everything.

Also bought a new crank shaft position sensor. I really did not want to tackle this job again for some time. Just time consuming.

Are you saying that the genuine BMW lines won't have that check ball?! For all that money?!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11617531423kt1

[StradaRedlands]

Alright, good times here! THANK YOU Brian86 Suvorovo Pittz1 @M-technick-3 for the feedback!

So I would need a PCV kit (June 2005 build), intake gaskets, fuel purge valve, starter, maybe DISAs. This is adding up! There are some Vaico DISAs at FCP... much cheaper. Will they last five years (probably mix life of car for me)? Tempted by the charms of the TYC starter as well. Again, doesn't have to last 15 years, just five. Thoughts?

So big question, is my PVC even bad??? As I mentioned, no codes. But the tach doesn't hold still. Maybe it's always been that way and I'm just noticing it. And I swear I can feel a little surge in the car as I'm driving. Maaaaaybe in my head or

Here's a short video of the vacuum & sound when I open the valve cover... seem okay or problematic?

[Brian86]

The PCV has a lot of different failure modes. I don't think it can be diagnosed just by popping the oil cap.

The oil separator can clog.
Ball check can get stuck.
The diaphragm can:
-pull too much vacuum
-pull insufficient vacuum
-leak to atmosphere

The DME is very good at compensating for all of those problems and the car will run just fine with the system in complete disarray. Mine did until all the failures combined just right to suck oil up the drain line like a straw.

I'm big on changing them as maintenance to prevent a catastrophic failure down the road. Usually coordinating all the intake stuff with a starter, somewhere in the 175krange is just good preventative maintenance.

[Brian86]

I can't speak specifically to the Vaico DISA valves... but I got a pair of their VANOS solenoids and both were defective out of the box. Simply incapable of regulating the oil pressure/flow correctly.

That's shaded my view of everything they sell.

[StradaRedlands]

So it sounds like I should just do it as preventative maintenance if nothing else? I think there is a vacuum leak somewhere though, just based on the surging.

Parts are adding up... first I was intimidated by the job, now by the price!
-PCV kit - OE
-Starter - Bosch
-DISA valves - OE
-Crankshaft sensor - VDO
-Fuel vent valve - OE

Am I missing anything here? I definitely don't ever want to have to do this again on this car!!! DISA valves are the kicker... $740 for the OE kit. Anywhere that aftermarket would be suggested in the above, or bite the bullet and do it right w/ OE?

[sabino56]

I have same 2006 330i and did pcv replace last year, not too bad. The hoses can be a pain, especially that one to the oil pan and the one to back of intake. Read thru post here on ideas for that.
I replaced starter just as I would feel stupid if the original failures right after the job. After reading some complaints on parts quality today, I’m not 100% sure I should have but no problems or complaints with new one. I bought a Bosch, at time was made in Slovakia or Hungary, can’t remember.

You can replace the inner DISA with manifold on by removing the alternator. I had done that the previous year. Definitely check it and with scary stories on what happens if pin comes off, I’d probably replace it but you could do it later if desired. Fwiw, I bought the “OE” non-BMW DISA from FCP and no complaints so far. Couldn’t bring myself to pay the cost of BMW on that one but it’s a religious debate on that point here so you have to choose yourself.

Only think I wish I had done was not plug in the pcv heater so as not to mess with the recall. I live in the AZ desert and not worried about freezing.

[Pittz1]

I would not do DISA valves. Mine work perfectly fine at 216k mile mark and looked great when I had the intake off. You could buy them to have them on hand in the event something happens, but a lot of money to just do it.

When putting the harness below the TB back on, i found 10mm nut screws to put back on to make my life easier when I reassembled it.

I also did not buy the vent valve. The wires that go to the harness are easy. Doesnt matter which slot it goes in. They all do the same thing. Other plugs you can't really screw up. They only fit the spots they came from. There are no matching connectors.

The Crank sensor is a no brainer. It's cheap and easy insurance.

You will be impressed the first time you start it. Fires up so quick.

Like I stated before, do the OFHG while you have access. Mackey mouse flange while you are at it. Pinch the hose about 5" down to save any broken plastic pieces from falling down tbe tube.

[StradaRedlands]

OK, DISA is off the list, which literally cut the cost in half! I'd only be saving a couple hundred by getting Febi or Rein, so am pretty much going with BMW parts with a Bosch starter. Hopefully pays off in the long run!

I pulled a manifold off a 330i to add to another car (RIP E91) so kinda' know the process. It's just a lot different pulling it quick from LKQ yard vs. my own car in the yard!
What could possibly go wrong!?!?!?

[Pittz1]

Honesty, not a lot can go wrong. Take your time. The OEM starter in mine was a bitch to pull out. Says not to hit it but I 100% did to get it off. No way it was pulling off by hand.

[PhaseP]

I have vaico disa valves on my car, since I had upgraded to 3 stage intake tune 4 years ago. They have been holding up fine, although since covid I am not driving much.

I mentioned about vaico since above their quality was asked. I also don't see the need to replace the DISA valves just because the manifold is being taken out. And once you removed the manifold, you can do it again. It won't be less of a pain, but knowing you did before it will be mentally easier to do again.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I have vaico disa valves on my car, since I had upgraded to 3 stage intake tune 4 years ago. They have been holding up fine, although since covid I am not driving much.

I mentioned about vaico since above their quality was asked. I also don't see the need to replace the DISA valves just because the manifold is being taken out. And once you removed the manifold, you can do it again. It won't be less of a pain, but knowing you did before it will be mentally easier to do again.

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I went to the wrecker today to pull some aluminum trim pieces (score!) and hoped to practice on that car. But someone got there before and pulled the AT, basically dropping the engine on the ground. But it does look doable!

Ramping up, collecting pieces, putting it off!

[e90_enjoyer]

Yeah, DISA valves are important - check the condition when you yank the manifold. But if they're OK and not breaking apart and function properly when activated using INPA, then keep them in.

Preventative maintenance on the DISAs is mainly to prevent them from breaking and getting sucked into the intake, or if theyre caked in oil and dont open anymore.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by e90_enjoyer

Yeah, DISA valves are important - check the condition when you yank the manifold. But if they're OK and not breaking apart and function properly when activated using INPA, then keep them in.

Preventative maintenance on the DISAs is mainly to prevent them from breaking and getting sucked into the intake, or if theyre caked in oil and dont open anymore.

I can't believe how much they are... not looking forward to that expense!