[BB_cuda]

I have new found appreciation for this X5D specific DIY. I'm now going to do this job on our newly purchased 2013. Sounds like the new part of the job is dropping the sub frame some to get clearance to remove the DPF. I'm going to have to see what is involved for dealing with the lower EGR cooler lines. Something about looping them together. I've done the cooler removal on the top side so hopefully it is similar tricks to use.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by mrdstr

Nevermind. Standard 3/8 drive 16mm on a 3in extension, on a 1/5 inch extension and presto. Getting the DPF was still ridiculous. The subframe doesn't exactly drop. I was able to get about an inch with a pry bar. Had to spin the DPF upside down and sawzall off the stainless lines. Then removed the lower sensor and it came right out. If I had to plans to reuse the DPF, I would have been screwed.

I can't get the socket to fit up through the gap in between the bracket and DPF. i'm using 3/8" drive 16 mm. I've tried both the deep well and shorty to pass through. i know it will go on the bolt head. It's a matter of clearing the gap.

[BB_cuda]

Solution is to loosen the v band clamp pretty far but not to point of it coming off. I sprayed the clamp with PB blaster to get it slide well. I then spun it a bit and was able to force the socket in there.

[gosh7001]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I can't get the socket to fit up through the gap in between the bracket and DPF. i'm using 3/8" drive 16 mm. I've tried both the deep well and shorty to pass through. i know it will go on the bolt head. It's a matter of clearing the gap.

Thank your for posting this DIY ... It really did help me get things done. I would like to add a couple of things to note for folks that may not be as familiar with all of this other than seeing these pics and videos on youtube.

1. That 4th bolt on the mount arm is a pain like others have noted .... the only way I could get under it was by lifting the engine up so you can access the side relatively easily and by removing the DPF Flange from the turbo. I used a thin wall, deep well 16mm socket with a 3 inch wobble extension attached to a 6 inch impact extension. I basically hammered the thing under the DPF. The impact wrench did the rest very easily. It is a pain to also get this mount out after the bolt is removed. If you are good with puzzles, you will be fine.

2. The subframe bolts on the bottom are 22 mm. the 1st one is very visible. The other 2 you'll need a breaker bar with a 6 to 12 inch extension to reach the 2 bolts, The subframe does not just fall down like others have noted. you can remove the first visible frame bolt entirely and then bring the other 2 bolts down by about 1.5 inches. The frame will not fall on you because the suspension and tie rods all bolt into it and that is why it is so difficult to make the subframe come down. Use a pry bar to get into that area where you removed the bolt and hammer it in. When you pull down on the pry bar, you will want a block or something (I used a metal wedge used for chopping wood) to put under the space created when you pull that pry bar down. That sets the bar and drops the frame about 1 to 1.25 inches.

3. To remove the DPF out of this space without damaging it, I had to roll the entire assembly 180 degrees and this start making it come out. It takes a lot of patience. This entire thing would be easier if you can get that upper DPF bracket completely off. that will give you more freedom of movement to twist and move the DPF more freely.

4. one part missing in this process is where you have to remove the EGR Valve AFTER you remove the lower EGR cooler. This was confusing since there is literally no other instructions on the web to do this and these instructions did not address it. This EGR valve has three bolts on it and once removed, you can then put the Block Off plate back on. The O2 sensors wires and vacuum tube come off easily but do NOT cut them, Just pull the vacuum line off and then disconnect the O2 sensor wire connectors (there are 2) from the wire harness harness on the topside of the engine and then the valve comes right off.

Thanks again for all the help and I hope this adds value to someone else doing the work.

[gosh7001]

I have 2 questions ...

1. The 2 lines at the top of the DPF (not the sensors) ... what happens to those? They are just hanging down ... Do I block them off?
2. What do I do with the Blue Vacuum line that went to the Lower EGR Control Valve (the part that once removed, the block off plate was installed) ?

[BB_cuda]

Okay to just leave those lines hanging down. Differential pressure sensor has no job to do now that DPF is out. I’ve seen people loop the front and back spots of differential press sensor together but it doesn’t buy you anything.

I put a screw in the end of that vacuum line and tie wrapped it out of the way. Done.

Now there are some cool things you can do with like measuring the exhaust gas pressure post turbo. You would have to add a port to the down pipe to hook front side of differential pressure sensor and leave back side seeing atmospheric press. You then use torque or Carly or other OBD blue toothed data monitoring to look at the diff pressure sensor. It just depends if it’s important to you to see your exhaust back pressure. The hybrid turbo guys like to play and learn so this is one of their measuring tools.

[fsd350]

Removed the top bracket from the DPF and heat shield before removing the DPF and it practically fell out with the subframe bolts backed out most of the way. Stuck an 1 1/2 wrench between the subframe and unibody. Worked like a charm. I was expecting much worse with all the reading that this is significantly more difficult than my 335d was. More time, with more creativity required in locating and working fasteners for sure.

[8memphis8]

Greeting from Dallas, TX. I am trying to get PDF Delete pipe for my 2012 x5 3.0d. There is 1 seller on eBay from Plano, TX (My neighbor in the Dallas TX metro area) ACTIVE WERKS ebay item # 122202467029, and 1 from Europe within reasonable price range (MTC Motorsports eBay item #263368172438 . Both less than $300 shipped). Are these 2 actually need some sort of modification? Because Active Works says FOR Europe only version. Please advise. Also, if you can PM me direct, that will be great. 469 703 0909. Thank you.

[335stoner]

wont work

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by 8memphis8

Greeting from Dallas, TX. I am trying to get PDF Delete pipe for my 2012 x5 3.0d. There is 1 seller on eBay from Plano, TX (My neighbor in the Dallas TX metro area) ACTIVE WERKS ebay item # 122202467029, and 1 from Europe within reasonable price range (MTC Motorsports eBay item #263368172438 . Both less than $300 shipped). Are these 2 actually need some sort of modification? Because Active Works says FOR Europe only version. Please advise. Also, if you can PM me direct, that will be great. 469 703 0909. Thank you.

the kits you are trying to avoid are complete kits. DPF delete, SCR delete, and LP turbo block.

what you are looking at is just a dpf delete for a non us spec. the shape doesn't look like the right part for an US 35d.

the cheapest route you can take is to buy the buzken mid pipe and get the cheapest 335d down pipe

or

even cheaper gut your DPF and SCR and reinstall. PM me i might possibly be able to get you hooked up with a gutted DPF and SCR...

[dowster]

I think this is what image 1 was before the link died, showing the under-body plastic paneling you need to remove.

[tryingtobebest]

Just did this recently, going from memory would like to post my additional comments with pics.

#1 Disconnect all the wires and a vac line from top also while under the hood take two 13mm bolts that connect EGR to the back of the turbo. Remove one screw that holds DPF pressure differential sensor in its place.
#2 I didn't take down entire exhaust as im doing only down pipe for now, so i disconnect DEF injection section of the exhaust with nozzle and NOx sensor from DPF and removed from vehicle to give me more space. Disconnected EGR cooler from DPF, blocked cooler lines with needle nose vise grips for now, cut cooler lines and removed lower EGR as a big single unit.
#3 Support engine by passenger axle output (Oil pan area), raise a little to remove load from leg, removed all except ONE motor mount bracket/leg bolts (I was here in 2.5 hours from start but, I was on the hoist).
I followed OP in this process and didn't go through entire thread where BB_Cuda give MAJOR point of how to do this...
You HAVE TO loosen up DPF from turbo in order to get to that last motor mount leg bolt, i took tha V-Band clamp out completely to move around dpf in that little space.

This is how close arm to DPF when they are in the car, even extension without socket can't be sticked in there.


TOP view


Once leg is out, i loosen up subframe, push down on it using BIG prybar and I think I jammed 14mm DEEP socket between subf and body.


Here is the angle with which DPF came out (I thing 4 hours to be here, never done X5, done this only on my 335D)


Here is how i plugged one of the cooler coolant line


And here is another side, i blocked it with 5/8" rubber cap and a hose clamp, it goes as a plug to the hoses "T" near radiator.
In order to "Capp" the first cooler line, we need smaller diameter cap then 5/8! Which one - im not sure yet!



***With engine as far UP as it could possibly go without any excessive (pushing/lifting) loads and 14mm socket acting as a spacer, here is how the distance between motor mount top bolt and its leg should be. Picture was taken when DPF was out and motor mount leg and motor mount itself was back in its places; this shown how much your clearance should be to remove DPF from vehicle WITHOUT damaging it (still have to bend that shield aluminum protector pretty hard)

(Its a regular Snap-On 90degree pick)

[8memphis8]

Thank you so very much for detail instruction and references.

[8memphis8]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

the kits you are trying to avoid are complete kits. DPF delete, SCR delete, and LP turbo block.

what you are looking at is just a dpf delete for a non us spec. the shape doesn't look like the right part for an US 35d.

the cheapest route you can take is to buy the buzken mid pipe and get the cheapest 335d down pipe

or

even cheaper gut your DPF and SCR and reinstall. PM me i might possibly be able to get you hooked up with a gutted DPF and SCR...

Please let me know at 469 zeven-0-3 0909 text or message about the price. Thank you.

[Owen81]

On my 335d I had put the socket into the 4th bolt recess (from the rear side IIRC), then put the extension on it after. This was without loosening the DPF. On my X5 there was no way I was getting a socket or anything in there and had to loosen the DPF before taking out that bolt. Maybe it depends on motor mount age and how the exhaust is aligned etc.

[BB_cuda]

Stoner- I thought I was a gluten for punishment by putting gutted DPF back into 335. Putting gutted DPF back into X5 would certainly top me. I hadn’t heard of anyone doing this
Have you?

[Spyro235]

Well, this looks like a pain, but possible to do with a weekend that my truck can be down.. and hopefully a few extra hands. Is there any damage in doing the deletes before getting the car tuned and running it like that for a bit?

[335stoner]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Stoner- I thought I was a gluten for punishment by putting gutted DPF back into 335. Putting gutted DPF back into X5 would certainly top me. I hadn’t heard of anyone doing this
Have you?

i have not yet, but everyone is different.. i was going to do the same on my 335 before VRSF came around. i think the 335 is cake the hardest part about the X5 is those dang pressure hoses past the body. that is what has been the part that gets the dpf stuck on both the X5's i have done. once removed when gutting i would cut and weld the tubes shut and it will be easier to manage... i did the same on the dpf i gutted for the 335 but it comes out way easier, but i didn't use that one!

Fully gutted 335d DPF if any one is interested (in the states) lol

[DolphLundgrenade]

So I'm a passenger until I can do one of two things with the 335d DPF... either replace it, the sensors and anything else that could have stopped it from regeneration or just bypass/delete the system. The problem is, while I'll maintain the current NC home as a rental, I'll be moving to Oregon. I don't believe that even the JR tuned ECU and delete will pass emissions there. Is there anyone else with a 335D that can share their Oregon emissions experience or advice? I'd really like to enjoy this car again, but there is just so many problems with the DPF/SCR/EGR/ that I know even fixing it will just come back another time to haunt me. If I can pass, I'll jump on it and get it done. I just need some local tips.

Not totally new to the forum btw, just couldn't remember which email I originally used. Had e46's for a long time before going to the e90 D. Love it other than the particulate filter! Thanks guys/gals!

[08-730d]

Hello.
Thanks for making a spectacular thread. It is a great source for anyone doing this job. I did last monday, and it took about 10 hours from start to finish (and I`ve never done this before). Here are some pictures of the process:

Exhaust removed. You can see some pipes and hoses probably for the adaptive drive, in the way. Had to be removed to get the dpf out/in.


The plastic clip holding the lambda/O2 sensor wiring in place (right below the dpf pressure sensor) was a pain to release. Ended up prying it loose with a flat head screw driver, at the outside toward the pressure sensor.


View into the turbo:


DPF removed. Had to bend the pressure sensor pipe on the dpf a bit to get it out (sensors still on..). Also had to release the subframe bolts on the dpf side, and one on the other side, and bend the subframe down as far as possible. And also jack the engine as far up as possible. Then it was just possible to get the new one in, without sensors. I also did it upside down, then rotating it when in.


Old vs New:


Old vs New:


How much is the v-band clamp supposed to be tightened? I did it like this:


So, I am glad i ordered all new sensors, as they were all stuck. I also ordered new bolts etc.
The car feels quite a bit quicker now, with the new dpf.

Does anyone know how much to torque the v-band clamp?

[robnitro]

V band I don't recall the number but there is a logical sequence.

You're already almost bottomed out the tension spring.
Back off a quarter or half turn. The idea is to get it tight and then let the spring have some space. You're probably fine the way it looks though, the bottom coils have some space to put constant tension.

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by 08-730d

Does anyone know how much to torque the v-band clamp?

BMW techinical specs for the 335d are:

1. Initial Tightening: 6 Nm
2. Loosen
3. Final Torque: 3 Nm

I assume it's the same for the X5d.