[milkmaster]

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1680103

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by OLI77

New owner of a 2011 e93 and I have been enjoying it much. At 55K miles, the roof has a small leak on heavy rain where it meets the A pillar passenger side.

Looking for a DIY on fixing. So far, I have added a lot of rubber sealer from Wurth on all rubber seals. I don't think the previous owner took care of those seals...

Not saying your problem is the same as mine - there are a number of possible causes for a leak similar to the one you describe.

Nevertheless, this post describes my journey in resolving an A pillar leak
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1530535

[OLI77]

Thank you Milkmaster and dpaul, I will read those thread and learn a lot I am sure.

I might come back with more questions.

[christian_99]

Originally Posted by Spaceman1986

Still no joy with the roof. The roof isn't locking into place in the front where the latches are. There is no red warning to light to show there is a problem with the roof. When you are in the car you can push the roof up :-(. Any help would be great

I have just noticed that I have the same problem with my roof. I works fine but it doesn't latch in de front and has that small "gap" between the rubbers seals on the top.

Did you find a fix for it? What was the issue that cause it?

Really need this fixed since it's raining everyday....

[RyDog]

I bought a 2013 335i Convertible back in September and have had no problems with the roof other than a very minor rattle somewhere above the driver's door. It isn't constant and it isn't all that annoying even when it is rattling. I get mine washed all the time and haven't had any leaks.

[hungry4cheese]

Originally Posted by jnubmw

Does anyone know where this fuse is located?? from the E93 Retractable Hardtop publication...The movement direction of the hardtop and rear module are determined by corresponding
valve positions and by reversing the direction of rotation of the pump. The hydraulic
pump in the hydraulic unit is driven by an electric motor that operates in two directions of
rotation. Both rotation directions are implemented with a relay switch.
The pump motor and the five hydraulic valves are activated by the CTM. The power consumption
of the electric motor is about 40A (safeguarded by a 50A fuse).

Did anybody ever figure out where this fuse is?

I'm having an issue with my motor not turning on anymore because I accidentally shorted some combinations of relay pins 87, 87a and 30 on the pump relays while trying to fix those salmon relays. I have tested my motor with an external power source and it works, but when powered from the relays it does not turn anymore. I also tested for voltage on 87a for both salmon relays and there is voltage. Ground is also present. The relays are also working properly. Additionally I read resistance on the top motor and it read 1 ohm.. Pretty low. But it does seem to work from an external power source. Also disassembled the motor to see the state of coils and brushes and they don't look melted or burned. So I am sufficiently puzzled as to what is going on. Any help appreciated..

Initial reason I was messing with this was because my top quit going down, but I could hear the pump motor turning after the top unlocked. I still thought it was the salmon relay, I cleaned them, but it didn't fix the issue. I then figured let me just try to test with another relay I had on hand. Except I misread the diagram on the side and didn't see that pins 87a and 87 were always connected on that other relay. Hence I shorted them together when I plugged it into the e93 relay slot. Big mistake. Now the pump motor does not turn at all.

Going back to my original problem (besides maybe killing the pump motor) I now suspect it is either a stuck valve in the pump assembly or the CTM not signaling valves (although I checked through INPA and it was seemingly doing so). Either way I royally messed something up by using the wrong relay... So I am trying to figure out whether I need to drop a large amount dollars on a used pump... or whether there is actually a 40A/50A mysterious fuse somewhere. The fuse box in the glove box shows fuse 01 and 25 as the top relays. 01 doesn't exist and 25 is a 20A fuse that seems to kill the CTM (convertible top module) when removed. This isn't the mysterious fuse to the salmon relays.

Also I am open to starting another thread if this is not a good place for this ask.

Thanks.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by hungry4cheese

Did anybody ever figure out where this fuse is?

I'm having an issue with my motor not turning on anymore because I accidentally shorted some combinations of relay pins 87, 87a and 30 on the pump relays while trying to fix those salmon relays. I have tested my motor with an external power source and it works, but when powered from the relays it does not turn anymore. I also tested for voltage on 87a for both salmon relays and there is voltage. Ground is also present. The relays are also working properly. Additionally I read resistance on the top motor and it read 1 ohm.. Pretty low. But it does seem to work from an external power source. Also disassembled the motor to see the state of coils and brushes and they don't look melted or burned. So I am sufficiently puzzled as to what is going on. Any help appreciated..

Initial reason I was messing with this was because my top quit going down, but I could hear the pump motor turning after the top unlocked. I still thought it was the salmon relay, I cleaned them, but it didn't fix the issue. I then figured let me just try to test with another relay I had on hand. Except I misread the diagram on the side and didn't see that pins 87a and 87 were always connected on that other relay. Hence I shorted them together when I plugged it into the e93 relay slot. Big mistake. Now the pump motor does not turn at all.

Going back to my original problem (besides maybe killing the pump motor) I now suspect it is either a stuck valve in the pump assembly or the CTM not signaling valves (although I checked through INPA and it was seemingly doing so). Either way I royally messed something up by using the wrong relay... So I am trying to figure out whether I need to drop a large amount dollars on a used pump... or whether there is actually a 40A/50A mysterious fuse somewhere. The fuse box in the glove box shows fuse 01 and 25 as the top relays. 01 doesn't exist and 25 is a 20A fuse that seems to kill the CTM (convertible top module) when removed. This isn't the mysterious fuse to the salmon relays.

Also I am open to starting another thread if this is not a good place for this ask.

Thanks.

The fuse is in the battery distribution box (BSB) on top of the battery positive terminal.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...01009/Aj5o0D0j

Fuses are not replaceable individually - sometimes you can find an unused position in the BSB and alter the connector to fit. Otherwise you'll have to buy a new or used BSB.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...IaAhZYEALw_wcB

[dpchapman64]

Posting first time. My 09 335i roof will not close all the way and won't open. Windows are stuck down as well. Any ideas what could cause this?

[eugenecp]

Originally Posted by dpchapman64

Posting first time. My 09 335i roof will not close all the way and won't open. Windows are stuck down as well. Any ideas what could cause this?

Have you checked for codes?