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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > What are you neglecting?



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      06-29-2018, 12:02 PM   #23
atmosphericM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnuke View Post
Need new rotors and pads soon, but wanting to upgrade them to 4 piston all 4 corners for possibly tracking it (class i'm targeting is only 4 piston). Not sure what to do if I should just do rotors and pads or put the cost towards the upgrade now.
You may have already looked at brake upgrade options but it's something I definitely want to do eventually, so I've done a little research myself. justpete here is very familiar with our brakes as he tracks his car, and I believe Biginboca is working on his right now. I'm sure there are others.

Anyway what I'm getting at is that there are some cost-effective solutions that go a long way, as I'm sure you agree that our cars in stock form have very lack-luster performance in the braking category (IMO that's where my car was weakest from the factory, performance wise... typical E9x I suppose because M3 brakes are a tad weak in stock form too IMO, at least for tracking).

Look into 335i calipers, as well as the newer platform brakes (F30 or whatever it is). Also 135i calipers (same as BMW Performance calipers) are great, I believe, with a little tinkering. Apparently the caliper bushings/sleeves/something like that need upgrading to be track ready. There are some extra mods we have to do on 328i's to get everything working properly, especially in the rear, but it can be done.

A lot of people go wayyy overboard IMO with brakes when it comes to BBKs. If it's for bling, that's one thing, but otherwise, you can probably do a lot for not a lot of coin if you DIY a bit and do some research.
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      06-29-2018, 12:06 PM   #24
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Sitting on my shelf:
-MILV's with associated gaskets
-25 row cooler with n54 housing and gaskets (mine is weeping just a touch right now...)
-front discs and pads
-4 SS brake lines remaining to be installed (2 easy ones are done!)
-inner poly bushings for trailing arms and lower wishbone
-helical LSD with seals and finned cover(will try and do trans fluid at the same time)

So little time... Just had a box load of motorcycle parts show up. And my RV need some work on the fridge and water heater. And my bathroom needs tile and paint...
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      06-29-2018, 12:17 PM   #25
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Why all the worry over water pumps? I'd rather pay the $100 to have my car towed home than do the job twice as much as necessary.
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      06-29-2018, 04:22 PM   #26
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I used stoptech ss lines, stoptech cryo treated rotors, stoptech sport pads... and with the new vacuum... Purdy good

Now in comparison to more cost effective setups? idunno....
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      06-29-2018, 04:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atmosphericM View Post
Why all the worry over water pumps? I'd rather pay the $100 to have my car towed home than do the job twice as much as necessary.
Because 335i
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      06-29-2018, 06:31 PM   #28
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valve cover gasket.
it's just not gotten bad enough for me to care.

rear ride height sensor.
I just haven't had the wheel off for another reason.

can bus errors.
because I don't feel like tracking it down and it doesn't seem to affect the modules.
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      06-29-2018, 08:40 PM   #29
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My wallet.
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      06-30-2018, 04:14 PM   #30
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My wallet.
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      07-02-2018, 07:34 PM   #31
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I keep not taking the rear brakes apart to look at why the parking brake sucks because I don't want to find out that things are broke and I haven't just ordered parts. I've had several quarts of some kind of gear oil on the shelf for the transmission, and I keep saying I'm going to remove the CDV whenever I do that drain and fill...
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      07-03-2018, 01:41 AM   #32
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Starter. Still grinding but still starting.
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      07-05-2018, 08:54 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Starter. Still grinding but still starting.
Me too!

I figure I got a manual so I'll just pop start it to the parts store when the day comes.
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      07-05-2018, 12:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bufalo View Post
I keep not taking the rear brakes apart to look at why the parking brake sucks because I don't want to find out that things are broke and I haven't just ordered parts. I've had several quarts of some kind of gear oil on the shelf for the transmission, and I keep saying I'm going to remove the CDV whenever I do that drain and fill...
Removing the CDV will entail opening the hydraulic system, but doing a transmission oil flush will not. Food for thought.
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      07-05-2018, 12:44 PM   #35
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For sure - but both require getting the car up on stands and climbing underneath and wrenching in the same area. A little bit of clutch bleeding afterwards isn't an issue, and I can use some hose-pinch pliers on the soft clutch line to minimize fluid loss.
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      07-05-2018, 04:38 PM   #36
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My AC now lol
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      07-05-2018, 05:14 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bufalo View Post
I keep not taking the rear brakes apart to look at why the parking brake sucks because I don't want to find out that things are broke and I haven't just ordered parts. I've had several quarts of some kind of gear oil on the shelf for the transmission, and I keep saying I'm going to remove the CDV whenever I do that drain and fill...
I've just given up.
I put new shoes and hardware in for the parking brake, new rotors, all of it.

adjusted it all, parking brake still sucks.
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      07-06-2018, 06:48 AM   #38
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Radiator (no leaks, but I have a SULEV and the sensor in the radiator that tells the ECU it's the correct radiator is bad, go figure!), front axle seals, and oil pan gasket.

Last edited by bhmax16; 07-06-2018 at 06:50 AM.. Reason: typo
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      07-06-2018, 07:33 AM   #39
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Suspension refresh- car has 135K miles (My commute is almost 100mi a day) and the car feels real sloppy.

Brakes - new fluid and pads are needed

Body work - front bumper will get another repray/or replacement.
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      07-06-2018, 12:14 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhmax16 View Post
Radiator (no leaks, but I have a SULEV and the sensor in the radiator that tells the ECU it's the correct radiator is bad, go figure!), front axle seals, and oil pan gasket.
So has anyone tried chopping up their SULEV radiator and mounting a tiny section to the sensor, then just running a normal rad?
I'm sure there's much better ways to fool or code the computer though
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      07-06-2018, 12:23 PM   #41
atmosphericM
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Ugh, having a SULEV already sucks enough with the lower compression. I really hope I don't severely regret my N51 years down the road when repairs and maintenance start becoming necessary.
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      07-07-2018, 09:45 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
I've just given up.
I put new shoes and hardware in for the parking brake, new rotors, all of it.

adjusted it all, parking brake still sucks.
While this whole post motivated me to spend the thirty bucks on parking brake hardware and shoes I'm expecting the same disappointment when I finish the job.
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      08-07-2018, 10:46 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
I've just given up.
I put new shoes and hardware in for the parking brake, new rotors, all of it.

adjusted it all, parking brake still sucks.
So Sunday I finally replaced the rear brakes, and I found that whoever had last been messing with the parking brake had the driver's side shoes installed upside down. New hardware and shoes, installed correctly, has it working as it should.


Still neglecting the transmission oil, and shifting is getting more clunky.
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      10-25-2018, 02:56 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bufalo View Post
Still neglecting the transmission oil, and shifting is getting more clunky.
Oh hey, the clutch went out on my 328 on Monday, so I guess I'll be getting around to draining and filling the gear oil this weekend...
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