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DIY: Brake Pad Change e90 / e92 335i
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08-14-2014, 04:17 PM | #23 | |
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11-01-2014, 09:59 PM | #24 |
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Today, the light came on indicating the front brakes were ready for replacement (the second wire of the sensor had wore through). So, we spent the day (3 hours or so) replacing both front rotors and all front pads. Also put in a new sensor wire. Mileage: 93122. We basically drove 10,000 miles further on the front brakes than the rear brakes.
Last edited by Barrique_Red; 11-02-2014 at 08:07 PM.. |
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12-30-2014, 11:30 PM | #25 |
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This diy helped me replace my brake pads successfully. Thanks!
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E90 330i | M-Sport Conversion | Apex ARC-8 18X9/9.5 | General AS-05 Tires | Koni Str.t / H&R Sport Kit | Centric Carbon Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Pads
E82 135i | M-Sport | BMS DCI | BMS Phx Racing CP | MHI OEM Twins | Ebay OCC | Silicone VL | G-Plus 5" FMIC | Alzor Style 040 18X8/9 | Barum Bravuris 3HM Tires |
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01-04-2015, 12:53 PM | #26 |
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Drives: 2008 335xi
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Should the sensor be replaced even if I'm just doing a routine pad change on the rear? I'm not getting any warnings, but they're low enough that they won't pass NYS Inspection.
Or is it ok to keep the current? |
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01-07-2015, 10:14 AM | #27 | |
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I personally do not use the sensors anymore. I simply visually check them during routine maintenance |
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01-18-2015, 07:54 PM | #28 |
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Thanks for the DIY. very helpful with the pics.
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05-21-2015, 06:55 PM | #29 |
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rotor removal tip
i had a hard time taking my rotors off, which had 150K on them.
I took it to our family mechanic, and he hit it with a solid hammer from the inside out. It took 2 hits and the rotor fell off. Prior to that, I switched between soaking with PB Blaster and hitting the rotors with rubber mallet, or dead blow from the outside inward. Zero no luck. I also tried forcing the rotor off with a long screw/nut to the caliper hanger, and that only got 1 rotor off. Trust me. 2 hits from the inside out, will do less damage to your hub and wheel bearing than the 50 hits by dead blow. |
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06-01-2015, 02:19 PM | #31 |
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Don't forget to clean up your caliper slide pins and put some brake grease on them before you put them back in. Also, you could probably get away with not doing this but you want to clean up the contact points for the pads on the caliper mounting bracket with brake cleaner and sand paper. I used a dremel with a sanding head that did a great job of cleaning them up.
If you are changing your rotors its a good idea to sand down the hub and put a light coat of antiseize on there to make your next rotor change a snap. You probably want to clean up the corrosion on the back of your rim where it mates to the hub so your rim won't get fused to the rotor assembly like mine were. I couldn't even get my tires off when I first attempted this job. I've also heard that its necessary to change the clips that go over the front of the calipers every 48 months. Anyone have any insight on that? Last edited by Illicit; 06-01-2015 at 02:28 PM.. |
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12-01-2015, 09:04 PM | #33 |
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HELP! Anyone Replace Pads on This setup?
I am having a terrible time locating a "how to" page that will help me replace the pads on this setup. This is on a 2013 335i with the Sport package. Are there any forums out there that can help? TIA!
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12-17-2015, 10:04 AM | #34 |
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Brake pad and rotor assemblies have not really changed over the last decade.
I've done brakes on 96~07 Audis, '96 Maxima, '01 Civic, '06 RX8, '03 540i, Nissans, 2014 Tiguan, etc... they're VERY similar. some cars required a couple of extra bolts to remove the callipers. If you cannot figure it out from DIY's available for other BMWs and from looking at your brake system, you should definitely bring it in to a shop. If this DIY does not look too bad, I say give it a try. |
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01-09-2016, 09:10 PM | #36 |
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I need some urgent help. I'm doing pads only.
I changed the rear passenger side first, I assumed it would be more complicated because of the sensor. On the rear drivers side I can't get the lower 7mm hex screw loosened because of the support beam underneath, I can only get the bit in, but can't get enough space to get the socket wrench attached??? |
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01-10-2016, 03:42 PM | #37 |
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Got it to work. Had to run to the store and find a 7mm Allen wrench hex.
Couldn't find any 1/4" sockets that were 7mm hex. I pumped the brakes after doing the rears and when I did the first front one, the brake reservoir still overflowed when I compressed the piston. Slipped my mind that that may happen. Everything seems to be okay. |
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07-11-2017, 11:47 PM | #40 |
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Hey all, blame the lost images on photobucket! Can believe they now want $400 to host images.
I'll try to find my old images but we may be at a loss here. Sorry all. |
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06-15-2019, 02:24 PM | #43 |
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Thanks for the post
Thank you for your post. This helped me and I appreciate the pictures. I installed new brakes for the track day coming up. I was surprised at how quick it really was to change out the pads.
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08-27-2020, 05:14 PM | #44 |
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I just did rear brakes today on my e90. Even living in the rust belt for the most part my rotors didn't require much convincing to come off, so that was nice.
One thing that was not mentioned here is that if your car/CBS reports that the brake pads need to be replaced, but looking at the pads themselves shows a solid amount of material left (1/4" or more), have a look at the sensor. In my case the sensor wire had ripped (probably from running over something), so the car randomly told me I needed rear brakes. since it had been 40k miles and 2.5 years, I thought why not. I bought pads and rotors and did the left side first. When I got to the right, i found the broken sensor, and the sensor hadn't even worn at all! very frustrating to spend money and time that I didn't need to, but at least the job is done. Keep an eye on that sensor people!!
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Last edited by leif20; 08-31-2020 at 11:47 AM.. |
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