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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Brake Pad Change e90 / e92 335i



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      08-14-2014, 04:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAN15H
Hi All,

I was trying to replace my rear discs and pads today but couldn't get the discs off no matter what I tried.

I made sure that I took the grub screw out and made sure that the hand brake was off. I even took the carrier off that holds the calliper.

Gave the disc loads of hits with a hammer pulled on it whilst pushing a screw driver behind it to try and leaver it out but it wouldn't budge at all.

Does any one have any ideas about what I could try next.

Thanks.
Same thing happened to me also. Rotors wouldn't come off. I had to hit it real hard like 50 times before I got it off. Worst brake job I've ever done. Took me nearly 6 hours just for the rears. I suggest getting a torch and heating up the hub area for tiny bit and you should hear a pop then hammer it out.
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      11-01-2014, 09:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Barrique_Red View Post
So, although I purchased all the parts for both axles, I won't do the fronts until the computer says the 2nd wire has broken. I look at the thickness when I rotate or change tires, just to be comfortable!
Today, the light came on indicating the front brakes were ready for replacement (the second wire of the sensor had wore through). So, we spent the day (3 hours or so) replacing both front rotors and all front pads. Also put in a new sensor wire. Mileage: 93122. We basically drove 10,000 miles further on the front brakes than the rear brakes.

Last edited by Barrique_Red; 11-02-2014 at 08:07 PM..
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      12-30-2014, 11:30 PM   #25
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This diy helped me replace my brake pads successfully. Thanks!
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      01-04-2015, 12:53 PM   #26
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Should the sensor be replaced even if I'm just doing a routine pad change on the rear? I'm not getting any warnings, but they're low enough that they won't pass NYS Inspection.

Or is it ok to keep the current?
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      01-07-2015, 10:14 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnheardWar
Should the sensor be replaced even if I'm just doing a routine pad change on the rear? I'm not getting any warnings, but they're low enough that they won't pass NYS Inspection.

Or is it ok to keep the current?
If the sensors are still good, there's no need to replace them. However, old sensors often will slip out of the new pad. My recommendation is to try it and see. Buying a sensor in advance is a good move.

I personally do not use the sensors anymore. I simply visually check them during routine maintenance
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      01-18-2015, 07:54 PM   #28
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Thanks for the DIY. very helpful with the pics.
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      05-21-2015, 06:55 PM   #29
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rotor removal tip

i had a hard time taking my rotors off, which had 150K on them.

I took it to our family mechanic, and he hit it with a solid hammer from the inside out. It took 2 hits and the rotor fell off.

Prior to that, I switched between soaking with PB Blaster and hitting the rotors with rubber mallet, or dead blow from the outside inward. Zero no luck. I also tried forcing the rotor off with a long screw/nut to the caliper hanger, and that only got 1 rotor off.

Trust me. 2 hits from the inside out, will do less damage to your hub and wheel bearing than the 50 hits by dead blow.
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      05-22-2015, 09:03 AM   #30
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nice writeup
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      06-01-2015, 02:19 PM   #31
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Don't forget to clean up your caliper slide pins and put some brake grease on them before you put them back in. Also, you could probably get away with not doing this but you want to clean up the contact points for the pads on the caliper mounting bracket with brake cleaner and sand paper. I used a dremel with a sanding head that did a great job of cleaning them up.

If you are changing your rotors its a good idea to sand down the hub and put a light coat of antiseize on there to make your next rotor change a snap. You probably want to clean up the corrosion on the back of your rim where it mates to the hub so your rim won't get fused to the rotor assembly like mine were. I couldn't even get my tires off when I first attempted this job.

I've also heard that its necessary to change the clips that go over the front of the calipers every 48 months. Anyone have any insight on that?

Last edited by Illicit; 06-01-2015 at 02:28 PM..
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      09-22-2015, 01:51 PM   #32
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Anyone knows where to get new anti-rattle pin?

Anyone knows where to get new anti-rattle pin?
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      12-01-2015, 09:04 PM   #33
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HELP! Anyone Replace Pads on This setup?

I am having a terrible time locating a "how to" page that will help me replace the pads on this setup. This is on a 2013 335i with the Sport package. Are there any forums out there that can help? TIA!
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      12-17-2015, 10:04 AM   #34
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Brake pad and rotor assemblies have not really changed over the last decade.
I've done brakes on 96~07 Audis, '96 Maxima, '01 Civic, '06 RX8, '03 540i, Nissans, 2014 Tiguan, etc... they're VERY similar. some cars required a couple of extra bolts to remove the callipers.

If you cannot figure it out from DIY's available for other BMWs and from looking at your brake system, you should definitely bring it in to a shop.
If this DIY does not look too bad, I say give it a try.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RMJR36 View Post
I am having a terrible time locating a "how to" page that will help me replace the pads on this setup. This is on a 2013 335i with the Sport package. Are there any forums out there that can help? TIA!
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      01-05-2016, 09:12 PM   #35
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Just passing by to say THANK YOU!
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      01-09-2016, 09:10 PM   #36
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I need some urgent help. I'm doing pads only.


I changed the rear passenger side first, I assumed it would be more complicated because of the sensor.

On the rear drivers side I can't get the lower 7mm hex screw loosened because of the support beam underneath, I can only get the bit in, but can't get enough space to get the socket wrench attached???
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      01-10-2016, 03:42 PM   #37
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Got it to work. Had to run to the store and find a 7mm Allen wrench hex.

Couldn't find any 1/4" sockets that were 7mm hex.

I pumped the brakes after doing the rears and when I did the first front one, the brake reservoir still overflowed when I compressed the piston. Slipped my mind that that may happen.

Everything seems to be okay.
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      03-16-2017, 11:36 AM   #38
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What type of rotors and pads do yall usually buy? I don't need high performance, but I do want quality but I don't want to overspend, either. And are all the sensors about the same, just depends on where you buy them?
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      07-06-2017, 02:40 AM   #39
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Great post
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      07-11-2017, 11:47 PM   #40
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Hey all, blame the lost images on photobucket! Can believe they now want $400 to host images.

I'll try to find my old images but we may be at a loss here. Sorry all.
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      02-12-2018, 09:21 AM   #41
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Great Post. Going to do this next weekend.
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      02-15-2018, 10:21 AM   #42
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great post. thanks for this!
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      06-15-2019, 02:24 PM   #43
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Thanks for the post

Thank you for your post. This helped me and I appreciate the pictures. I installed new brakes for the track day coming up. I was surprised at how quick it really was to change out the pads.
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      08-27-2020, 05:14 PM   #44
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I just did rear brakes today on my e90. Even living in the rust belt for the most part my rotors didn't require much convincing to come off, so that was nice.

One thing that was not mentioned here is that if your car/CBS reports that the brake pads need to be replaced, but looking at the pads themselves shows a solid amount of material left (1/4" or more), have a look at the sensor. In my case the sensor wire had ripped (probably from running over something), so the car randomly told me I needed rear brakes. since it had been 40k miles and 2.5 years, I thought why not. I bought pads and rotors and did the left side first. When I got to the right, i found the broken sensor, and the sensor hadn't even worn at all! very frustrating to spend money and time that I didn't need to, but at least the job is done.

Keep an eye on that sensor people!!
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Last edited by leif20; 08-31-2020 at 11:47 AM..
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