[nomiS330d]

I’ve changed all the rear suspension arms and bushes bar one! The near side toe control arm. I have tried getting the eccentric bolt out for a couple of weeks now, sprayed wd40 on it nearly every day and kept trying but no. Yesterday I borrowed a friends lift for an hour thinking this would be the answer. I swung a bloody big lump hammer at it a lot and still it won’t budge! I’m amazed how stuck they can get. So, I’ve got a new ryobi angle grinder coming tomorrow so it’s time to get serious! Wish me luck and no visits to A&E please
Anybody else used this ‘method’?

[Chappers 71]

Applying some heat with a blowtorch usually does the trick

[Tambohamilton]

Also, nut splitters. Have fun!

Oh, and the only penetrant oil I've had reliable success with is duck oil - highly recommended over WD, etc.

[therealdb1]

Think I would have tried heat, the engineering solution, followed by a nut splitter first.

Unleashing an angle grinder on it smacks of desperation and other unintentional damage to the operator and the car waiting to happen.

The traditional WD40 in the blue and yellow can was developed as a water dispersant and is at best, as described on their own website, a multi purpose fluid. Proper penetrating oil designed for that purpose might have been superior in freeing the nut before resorting to wanton aggression.

[nomiS330d]

I wanted to try heat but the place where the lift is isn’t insured to have gas on site so they haven’t got anything. I don’t know if I fancy blow torching it on axle stands on the drive. I’ve tried calling another garage near me that could get it shifted but they’re still shut down. The mot is booked for the 2nd of June so I need to get it sorted before then.

[Tambohamilton]

Don't want to use a blow torch with it on stands? But happy to use an angle grinder? That's a bit confusing to me, but never mind. You'll be fine with the grinder, just go steady. Plan/rehearse every move with the grinder off, before going for it. Brace your hands/arms against the car if you can, to get finer control of the grinder. Cut the bolt/nut off longer than you need, and grind it down to actually get it out. Trying to cut the nut off right up against the subframe will likely result in gouging the subframe with the grinder. I'm guessing you've got consumables coming with the grinder, but you'll need at least one 1mm cutting disc, and a (6mm?) grinding disc.

[Dormermike]

and dont forget to wear goggles. I know you will but i had to say it anyway. Use of an angle grinder in close proximity/confined area like this makes me wince.

[nomiS330d]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Don't want to use a blow torch with it on stands? But happy to use an angle grinder? That's a bit confusing to me, but never mind. You'll be fine with the grinder, just go steady. Plan/rehearse every move with the grinder off, before going for it. Brace your hands/arms against the car if you can, to get finer control of the grinder. Cut the bolt/nut off longer than you need, and grind it down to actually get it out. Trying to cut the nut off right up against the subframe will likely result in gouging the subframe with the grinder. I'm guessing you've got consumables coming with the grinder, but you'll need at least one 1mm cutting disc, and a (6mm?) grinding disc.

I think what concerns me about a blow torch is it’s a very confined space and the troublesome bolt is shrouded in flammable rubber, the bush. I’m not overly comfortable with angle grinding it but with care and time taken should be ok. Yes I have got thick gloves and some new safety glasses.

[nomiS330d]

I’ve got a grinding disc and ordered some 2.5mm metal cutting discs. Didn’t think 1mm cutting disc would be up to it.

[Tambohamilton]

1mm discs are a winner. I'll never go back to 2.5-3mm discs for cutting with a 4.5-5" grinder! The thicker discs are less fragile, sure, but 1mm ones are way way more efficient at cutting. Used to use them daily in my last job, even for cutting 20mm steel plate.

[nomiS330d]

My plan is to cut the arm off just leaving the end with the bush and the bolt through it then I can get straight at either side of the remains of the arm so just cutting through the rubber, sleeve and then the bolt. Should be attacking it tomorrow.

[Tambohamilton]

Full commitment!

[Daviebrown]

What about a battery reciprocating saw, much less risk just cut either side of the rubber bush.

[Chappers 71]

Originally Posted by nomiS330d

I wanted to try heat but the place where the lift is isn’t insured to have gas on site so they haven’t got anything. I don’t know if I fancy blow torching it on axle stands on the drive. I’ve tried calling another garage near me that could get it shifted but they’re still shut down. The mot is booked for the 2nd of June so I need to get it sorted before then.

If you don't fancy using a blowtorch you could try a heat gun, has worked for me in the past. Spray with penetrating oil/WD40 first then heat it up in a circular motion then try rocking the nut back and forth a few times & repeat if required.

Have fun

[nomiS330d]

Well, 7 hours of burning, hitting, angle grinding, resip sawing, swearing and alcohol abuse finally got it done! It fought me all the way. Gotta be the crapiest job known to man. Anybody want any advice how to do it? Take it do a very patient garage!

[Chappers 71]

Lol, good job

[nomiS330d]

After finally doing the rear toe arm so completing the refresh of my rear end I got it booked in for a full alignment tomorrow. This morning I started thinking maybe I should get the front refreshed as all the arms are BMW stamped so could be the originals. I haven’t really had any concerns with the front end really but figured, in for a penny in for a pound so found a guy on eBay local to me that sells complete kits so I went and bought it. Fitted it all this afternoon. All went a hell of a lot smoother than the rear! At least now I can present it for alignment with a clear conscience and every adjuster is free!
If the arms I took off were the 151,000 mile originals they’ve done very well! The bushings all felt fine and the ball joints had no play in them although they were quite weak.
If anybody is interested in doing this this is the eBay item number. 174180351266
Just buy the whole lot in one go and be done with it.
I have no affiliation with the seller. Just a really nice guy selling excellent parts!

[spudulike]

That's a good find and a great price. I'm tempted even though I've got nothing wrong with the front end on mine!

[nomiS330d]

I didn’t think there was anything wrong with my front end which is why I concentrated on the rear. I knew my rear end bushings were weak because I could feel it moving about under hard acceleration. Having done the front end the whole car feels fantastic now, tight, precise and no knocking or clunking. Obviously, the 4 wheel alignment I had done the other day has helped no end.
Next job is to do the diff bushes which are worn and cracked. I’ve got some poly bushes for them but haven’t got round to it yet as I’m thinking I may as well do the rear guibo which also has some small cracks in it but I’m still furloughed. Yes I’ve got the time but need to watch the pennies unfortunately.
It’s funny how one thing leads to another. I only started by wanting to change the rear track control arm bushes and here I am having done all of the steering and suspension joints, bushings and arms! I’m now thinking about getting the prop centre bearing as well!

[Tambohamilton]

Haha, tell me about it. I've done diff, but need to do all rear suspension, giubos...and maybe the centre bearing. It never ends, once you start looking!