[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

Well, it had normal oil pressure half the way and the other half it would come and off and there was no sounds from the engine at all. So I am hoping the oil pump was clogged but letting some oil through and then got out of time at the end

Can I determine if the engine is a lost cause by opening the valve cover and oil pan to see the extent of the in the hope of there was some oil pressure but very low?

You don’t know how long it was run with oil starvation before you got it. Think about why someone wanted to dump this car after it ate then belt. They knew exactly what happened and what would happen and dumped it. It sucks, really sorry you went through this.

Even if you got it running, for how long? The main bearings or rod bearings or camshaft ledges or any number of issues can be pending now. If you want to be able to depend on this car it needs a new motor in my opinion. If this is a weekend toy you are willing to spend time tearing into over and over and not needing to get to work then you can try what you are thinking. But I think it’s a bad idea and a path to frustration and wasted time/money.

[ctuna]

If you look at the picture in the broken belt threads
you can see the bits of belt entwined in the chain
and if you go from the pan the amount before the oil
screen in the uptake from the pan.
Taking off the valve cover would probably be easier.
What about a borescope.
Looks like that stuff you pulled out is enough proof there
is something in there though.

Oil pressure only measured at the oil pressure sensor
a passage way for oil being clogged does not prevent this.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

yeah It was a scam unfortunately, Is there anyway I can at least try to inspect the engine and replace damaged internals before getting a new engine? what components should I inspect besides for the valves and the chain and the oil pump

Valves? Why would you checking valves? Due to lack of oil pressure the cam shaft ledges, the rod bearings and rings on the pistons were out. To inspect those you need to take engine apart. Do you really want to do that?

[fredcase]

It’s toast man. Super shitty deal. I’d be after the guy that sold it to you hard.

You can waste time and energy trying to salvage the motor, but, no compression means it’s likley toast.

Get a replacement engine, and move on.

Sorry man, I feel your pain.

[dakine_surf]

Originally Posted by feuer

Valves? Why would you checking valves? Due to lack of oil pressure the cam shaft ledges, the rod bearings and rings on the pistons were out. To inspect those you need to take engine apart. Do you really want to do that?

I think he is really just hoping for a solution to jump out at him at this point... that and I do not believe the OP possesses the mechanical knowledge of how an engine lubrication system works. As stated by him

OP many others have said this, but when you first had an issue, that was the time to pull over and tow it home. From there damage could possibly have been minimized, maybe it could have been an easy fix. Driving 2 miles, shit 200 ft, let alone 20+ miles is a very bad idea. The other thing to remember is the guy who sold it you probably ran it like that too... so I would say it was a bad purchase from the get-go, and the seller likely was scamming you. Sorry bud, luckily an engine swap is not all that difficult, and a running n54 is way easier to source than it was 5 years ago.

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by ctuna

If you look at the picture in the broken belt threads
you can see the bits of belt entwined in the chain
and if you go from the pan the amount before the oil
screen in the uptake from the pan.
Taking off the valve cover would probably be easier.
What about a borescope.
Looks like that stuff you pulled out is enough proof there
is something in there though.

Oil pressure only measured at the oil pressure sensor
a passage way for oil being clogged does not prevent this.

thanks for the info, I will follow as you suggested since I have the time and tools and take the valve cover off and inspect the valves for bent valves as well as cleaning the whole chain and verifying the timing (or putting it back in time) using the timing chain tools.

I will report back with images of my findings hoping it is fixable through a minor rebuild.

thanks so much

[shehab_e90]

Originally Posted by feuer

Valves? Why would you checking valves? Due to lack of oil pressure the cam shaft ledges, the rod bearings and rings on the pistons were out. To inspect those you need to take engine apart. Do you really want to do that?

well honestly I don't see any harm in taking it apart since I have a daily driver already so I might inspect all components to make sure they are not damaged and see what needs to be replaced if minor not major.

I thought about checking the valves because the engine got out of time because of the belt being sucked into the chain and the lack of spark which makes me think it is out of time.

the oil starvation I am hoping is not as bad since the oil pressure light is intermittent so some sort of lubrication. I know the only way to know for sure is to take it apart.

I will make sure to check cam shaft ledges, the rod bearings and rings on the pistons as well since they are more important

thanks for all your help I will report back

[tlow98]

Do not waste your time with that motor. It will be throwing good money and time after bad. Just buy a new/used one for a grand and you’ll be far better off.

Sorry about the raw deal :-/

[fredcase]

I guess it wont cost money to rip it apart, pull the shredded belt out, and see if it runs after. But, that is a lot of work.

[dakine_surf]

Originally Posted by shehab_e90

well honestly I don't see any harm in taking it apart since I have a daily driver already so I might inspect all components to make sure they are not damaged and see what needs to be replaced if minor not major.

I thought about checking the valves because the engine got out of time because of the belt being sucked into the chain and the lack of spark which makes me think it is out of time.

the oil starvation I am hoping is not as bad since the oil pressure light is intermittent so some sort of lubrication. I know the only way to know for sure is to take it apart.

I will make sure to check cam shaft ledges, the rod bearings and rings on the pistons as well since they are more important

thanks for all your help I will report back

Well, it's your time and money, but I think you are really failing to grasp how an oil system works... pressure intermittently and continuing to drive is a bad thing... that means metal on metal... it's not a matter of possibility, it is 100%. That is why when the oil pressure light comes on, you pull over immediately and shut down. There is no situation where you have intermittent oil pressure and propper lubrication... especially over the course of 20+ miles... That's why when these lights come on it should be immediate pull over and shut down... I don't even think I would let the car come to a stop before shutting it down... better just to coast

Your car did not jump timing at least it didn't while under your operation... nothing in your description would make me think that. If it did jump timing when it ate a belt, that's one thing, but it's not what caused your shutdown and loss of compression. What you described is textbook oil starvation, right up to the part where it died as you get off the freeway and come to a stop. Metal on metal will get really hot and then seize as you come to a stop.

I don't understand why you keep going on about no spark and timing... you have no compression... that needs to be addressed before you can even think about timing or spark.

Don't even mess with the head at this point, pull the motor and check the main bearings, rod bearings and rings. If everything checks out there... then you can send the head off for inspection and a rebuild if the pistons really did make contact with the head. Either way what I am talking about is kinda a process, and chances are you are going to spend WAY more on parts and machining then just pickup up a running N54 and making a quick swap. That can be done in a few hours (decent weekend with a friend and beer.)

The other thing to remember is that these cars are overbuilt from the factory, which is great when you want to build big power as the internals are up to the task. Problem is, even an overbuilt engine with forged internals will fail just as quickly if run for more than a couple minutes with lubrication issues, and it's just that much more expensive to fix.

I seriously feel for you on this, the seller was uber shady... good news though... if the rest of the car is in good shape/ its a really clean e60/nice interior/good options (msport?) you could probably part the car and make a little on it depending on of course how bad the guy hustled you on price, cause I absolutely fucking guarantee he knew about the belt issue.

You could do a motor swap easily and probably for less than a couple grand all in.