[apirumann]

PREFACE

Audio is the most subjective topic in any forum because even if you post pictures and share the scientific knowledge (frequencies, dBs, filters etc.) one still has to hear the sound. Even if you watch a video, that still depends on your equipment outputting the sound, so it will still be very subjective.
I do not know anybody around me doing car audios whom I would trust. The older I get, the less people I trust. So, here we go...

Current Setup

E93 LCI N55
Factory installed CIC + NAV + Phone Prep + USB + S676 aka Hifi, 4 mids, 2 tweets, 2 "subs" + amp
Retrofitted Factory Alarm (laid the factory wires myself) + Retrofitted Front and Rear PDC - I did all the install - Joe@TGS did the coding - Working flawlessly.

My music has no depth especially from the AUX. I listen to spotify a lot.
I wanted OEM integration. No 16 awg tan wires with banana plugs in the cabin for me. A personal choice.
Initially no speakers are being upgraded - Need to see what I can get by just replacing the HIFI amp - This is what almost everybody out there suggest to do first. Sounds very reasonable.

Prior Knowledge

Very broad in DIY'ing. Very limited in car audio.
I have learned a lot of concepts about the audio setups, frequencies of different sounds, what is an RTA, how to use it, amps and dsps etc. since I started this.
I am going to learn as much as I need, not as much as to get a PhD in audio engineering. Subject is deeeeeeeep!!
I am not an audio engineer. Just know what is a DSP and how it works.

Preliminary Research

Initially I was considering Bavsound or BimmerTech
Learned that BavSound Revenant and BimmerTech Premium are both made by Audiotec-Fischer (ATF for short). A German hifi company.
Match is an entry level brand of ATF. They have other brands such as Helix and Brax ...
Bavsound Revenant = ATF Match UP7BMW (MU7 for short)
BimmerTech Premium = ATF Match PP86DSP
They are both Amplifier + DSP
Bavsound Revenant has a DRM lock (meaning you cannot adjust DSP settings), BimmerTech Premium does not
Those two have differences in terms of channels and supported speakers
MU7/Revenant = 5 x 55 watts @ 4 ohms (loud speakers) + 2 x 160 watts @ 2 ohms (subs) 4 input channels - 7 output channels (cannot be bridged) = 595 watts total
PP86DP/Premium = 8 x 70 watts @ 4 ohms - 4 input channels - 8 output channels (cannot be bridged) = 560 watts total

So...
Match UP7BMW (MU7 for short) is the right choice for MY OEM integration.
I am not the first one to install a MU7 but just here to share my experience.
Can and will add a central coaxial speaker later via adding a pair (pos. & neg.) of oem"ish" wires from MU7 to the central speaker.


MU7 Review

It is not cheap = $999 + tax
Completely Plug and Play in terms of connection - no need to run extra wires
Comes with wiring harness, mounting plate, 4 screws and a usb cable to adjust DSP settings
Mounting plate only works for F series - So if you have an E series it is not PNP in terms of mounting - Can be made to fit the factory bracket with little effort
Has a built in DSP and an Amp
Install takes 10 minutes - This is a lie!

Sound Quality (SP) & DSP

It sounds mediocre but louder with the S676 speakers after the install - DSP settings will need adjusting
DSP software is free to download
DSP software is very versatile but needs some getting used to - I have not mastered it yet but watching tons of videos on youtube
Adjusting the DSP settings - I am still working on it - A lot to learn in this department


INSTALL

I did a little bit of drilling and grinding to attach the amp to the factory bracket. No exhaustive effort though.
Used the MU7 bracket as a template (Photo taken after the holes were drilled). At least did not have to make my own template.



Used a step drill bit. Drilled all the way through with 1/4" then just enough to create a concave groove with 5/16" so the provided screws will seat flush. Necessary? Yes because the screws are very short.



Painted the grooves of the new holes using the brush of a black scratch pen. I already had the scratch pen.
I am sure velcro would just be fine but I would not be fine with it.

Blue - New holes
Yellow - HIFI amp mounting points (no longer in use)
Red - Factory hole used in addition to the new holes for mounting the MU7 - This hole also required grooving (Not shown in the below image)



I will update this as I learn more. What is the point? I have no idea... Also, I am learning how to use the forum more effectively. So, this page may have changed from last time you visited.