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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Catastrophic errors yesterday - got stranded!
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05-11-2016, 12:40 PM | #23 | |
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Thankfully the car is fixed now after sorting out that it was bad map data! I'd like to code and register the new battery I have (yuasa YBX5019) which is 900cca and 100ah. Am I right in thinking Rheingold will only allow me to register a new battery the same spec as it had previously, but to code the different spec I HAVE to use NCS expert? Just want to be clear. I've never used NCS expert so I'll be very wary about doing this and will look up the basics. Looks like on your list it goes from 90ah to 110ah but no option for 100ah so that could be an issue maybe? Thanks for your help |
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05-11-2016, 04:27 PM | #24 |
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Hi,
Glad it has been sorted. What is your car setup for at the moment. Open NCS expert and do read your CAS or FA (VO). At the end of your VO a long list will be a battery option for example.... -B090 which is a 90a non-agm battery. If you VO already matches the current battery you don't need to change the coding. Just registration. The battery option is defined in the CAS module. For e9x the following options are available under function: KLASSE_BATTERIE - Code taken direct from inside CAS. Code:
KLASSE_BATTERIE 00101107 (01) FF BATTERY TYPE wert_00 00 00 value 00 !(BATT_46AH,BATT_55AH,BATT_70AH,BATT_80AH,BATT_90AH,BATT_AGM_70AH,BATT_AGM_80AH,BATT_AGM_90AH) 80ah 01 01 80 ampere-hours BATT_80AH 90ah 02 02 90 ampere-hours BATT_90AH 110ah 03 03 110 ampere-hours 70ah 04 04 70 ampere-hours BATT_70AH 55ah 05 05 55 ampere-hours BATT_55AH 46ah 06 06 46 ampere-hours BATT_46AH 40ah_agm 0B 0B 40 ampere-hours (agm) 70ah_agm 07 07 70 ampere-hours (agm) BATT_AGM_70AH 90ah_agm 08 08 90 ampere-hours (agm) BATT_AGM_90AH 60ah_agm 09 09 60 ampere-hours (agm) 80ah_agm 0A 0A 80 ampere-hours (agm) BATT_AGM_80AH 105ah_agm 0C 0C Registration is then very easy with Rheingold. Hope this helps... |
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05-12-2016, 01:37 AM | #25 |
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bad map data? would you care to elaborate? i would like to learn from this really scary incident.
i was initially guessing for your JBE to be fried...
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05-12-2016, 02:45 AM | #26 |
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I need to set up NCS Expert properly and watch a tutorial properly I think as I haven't used it before. Not sure if it needs certain profile files to go with it, or just the default 'Expert' one? Still got the old battery in at the minute so no rush to sort this anyway.
Jozy, the problem was that apparently my car had already been mapped, so when I tried uploading the superchips bluefin map, they say the original file had some parameters changed that they wouldn't normally expect to be messed with (they didn't get specific) but that this had caused a problem for their map. I found other examples of this online when I looked too. Anyway, they have been extremely helpful and provided updated files to get me back running and to confirm the cause for themselves so they could adapt their own files to work correctly for me. Good bunch to deal with - very efficient. Just wish I had got onto them quicker instead of faffing about thinking something had genuinely died on the car. |
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05-23-2017, 10:14 PM | #28 | |
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11' 335i xDrive Sapphire BLK/Saddle Brown interior - VRSF FBO - PS2 - Fuel-it Stg. 2 LPFP - PR COILS - Injen CAI
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05-24-2017, 01:39 AM | #29 |
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Are you trying to use a bluefin remap mate?
The solution for me was just a different set of map files that they provided once I explained the fault to them and they looked at my old 'original' map and compared it to a genuine standard one. Don't know what the problem parameters were, but I think they must have added in some missing data or suchlike. Behaved perfectly once I loaded up the new files they provided. Good luck with yours mate |
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05-25-2017, 01:09 AM | #30 |
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09-09-2017, 04:44 PM | #31 |
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Im having a similar problem with my early build 335i. (09/06). Except i caused the problem...
Long story short, i thought I had the battery terminals disconnected in the trunk, but the battery was reconnected the previous night to shut the window. I hhad been doing a bunch of small random upgrades/fixes to the car and just forgot i did that/wasn't thinking So one of the projects, while i had still had some of the interior apart, was a CCC to CIC I-Drive retrofit. I already had the hvac panel, CCC head unit, and I drive control knob disconnected and out of the car. So next step was the removal of the old CCC idrive screen/CID, and install of the newer CIC idrive screen. I had the old screen out, and i was working on swapping the pins from the OLD idrive screen's power connector to the NEW idrive screen's power connector. The reason for this is because, the old screen uses an 8-pin style connector and the new screen a 6-pin (i believe). So you must move the wires from one connectors pins to the other connector pins, following a diagram. So i removed the 4 wires (Pwr, Gnd, K-Can Low, K-Can-High) by pressing the release pins and slid the wires out all at once from the old connector. Now im working on this and not paying much attention to the wires themselves, as far as them touching each other. Because like i said earlier i thought battery was disconnected :'( I think you see where this is going.... The wires touched together and shorted together basically. I quicklyy seperated the wires, but whatever "damage" that was caused, had already happened. Im unsure exactly which of the 4 wires, if not all of them, were all connected together for a sec or two. Immediately after this happening, the Wipers went on by themselves at full speed, and i could hear a faint relay clicking every 5 sec's or so. I had to go an remove the battery terminal in the trunk just to get the wipers to stop going non-stop. So after that i went into the fuse box in the interior and pulled the Wiper Relay. I put the wires for the CIC idrive screen correctly into the new connector, so that they couldn't short again, and i left the hvac and idrive parts unplugged. I reconnected the battery and now i have no power to the interior. Most notably the instrument cluster is completely dead. I still hear the relay clicking. However if i put the key in, press the clutch down, and press the start button, the engine start right up. After doing some looking into this i reconnected the old CCC head unit only & the HVAC control. The HVAC control panel does nothing. But if i push the volume knob on the idrive i can Mute/Unmute the radio and the speakers work fine. Things that Work/Have Power: Headlights work properly with Headlight switch & Key on Lights for all switches when Headlights are on DS window controls Idrive system DME - i guess Dome & Map lights Things that DO NOT Work/Have NO Power: Instrument cluster - NO gauges/BC screen. No Tach or Temp Gauge while engine is running Engine seems to be running in a default map, but haven't driven the car or let it run for more than 15 seconds Control of PS window - *using PS window switch, PS window works if controlled from DS window switches HVAC controls - nothing Door Locks- they dont lock/unlock with key fob or Central Lock Button. *However Keyfob Unlock triggers interior lights/outside lights to turn on. Worst of all - NO Communication with the Car thru the OBD2 port at all. With both Inpa I get a comm. error (ifh-003 i believe). This was not like this before. So now i can't even scan for fault codes.. Im pretty stumped on this, but any feedback i get from thru searching on google for people with similar issues i haven't found anyone witg the same exact problems, but from what I've looked into and researching bmw documents... Is possibly a K-Can line issue or a power supply issue. My car is an early build US spec E92 335i 6mt (09/2006), with an IBS, no D-Can. Because of Recalls on the newer version D-Can E90's and the Relay clicking, i already replaced the whole fuse box and JBE module, thinking i fried it somewhere inside it. After finishing, exact same issue's, no changes. I also checked every spot on the car i could find where power should be and with my meter it all seems fine. Im getting +12vdc to the JBE main power lead, with no damage on the cable. Totally different connection style to the JBE then the recalled (03/2007+) build date cars. Its just a regular wire with an eye hole style connector that bolts directly to a stud that brings power into the fuse box. Im getting proper voltage under the hood at the Jumper cable post, on both seperate Terminals as well. I'm looking for some advice here because you seem nto have a lot of faults, it SEEMS my car is having such as things not having power and Communication Errors for the K Can Bus. I have also disconnected the connector leads coming off of the IBS sensor on the negative terminal. I checked all the fusable links on top of the battery in the red Distribution style block. No water in battery area and those cables down low in the battery tray are still shiny SS. What else should i look into? Is the car constantly waking up or trying to go to sleep? That's what i believe to be the cause of the Relay clicking. But i have no real way of knowing that for sure right now. If anyone has ANY advice I would deeply appreciate it. Also if anyone has a link to Ista-D / Rheingold download and install instructions that would be great help! Right now I can onky manage to use it with the BMW Coding V3 Virtual Machine setup, but the laptop i use doesn't work well with Virtual Box or Vmware, so its very time consuming and doesnt seem to work properly on my laptop. I have Inpa installed on my laptop. What i forgot to mention is i can get the 2 Black Dot's for Battery & Ignition to respond properly to proper Engine Start Button press after inserting key. (Hard to tell with no working gauge cluster if the ignition is on or not)... Thanks in advance for the help!! Anthony |
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08-06-2020, 04:20 AM | #32 | |
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Drives: BMW e89 2010, Mercedes x164
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00e704 error
Dear All,
Hope you're doing well. I'm new to this & I appreciate your help on the below error using carly scanning tool for iphone Error Code 00E704 K-CAN physical bus error/CAN low, physical bus error ANY HELP. Battery been replaced a week ago ------------------------------------------------ Quote:
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