[flipmode]

So I'm about to replace my oil pan gasket as it has gotten to the point of dripping on the ground. At the same time, I will be installing new motor mounts as the car is approaching 140 000 Miles. The car is still on the stock turbos and surprisingly holding up very well with minimal wastegate rattle and have no issues with them. I really don't want to change them if I knew I could get 200K out of them, but I'm not sure if I should bite the bullet and replace them as I will have the engine suspended and motor mounts out. I'm not looking into a big upgrade, as I am happy with the current hp level on the car and don't want to spend a lot of money on an aging car. Maybe find a used set with low miles on them or also looking into the ebay 14T viv china turbo set which would give a small bump from stock. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by flipmode

So I'm about to replace my oil pan gasket as it has gotten to the point of dripping on the ground. At the same time, I will be installing new motor mounts as the car is approaching 140 000 Miles. The car is still on the stock turbos and surprisingly holding up very well with minimal wastegate rattle and have no issues with them. I really don't want to change them if I knew I could get 200K out of them, but I'm not sure if I should bite the bullet and replace them as I will have the engine suspended and motor mounts out. I'm not looking into a big upgrade, as I am happy with the current hp level on the car and don't want to spend a lot of money on an aging car. Maybe find a used set with low miles on them or also looking into the ebay 14T viv china turbo set which would give a small bump from stock. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I would encourage you to get trans mounts and install them when you do the engine mounts. I'd also sandwich the OEM gasket in between two beads of Ultra Black. This will absolutely add longevity to the gasket's seal.

One other thing you should consider "while you are in there" is O2 sensors. If you haven't replaced all 4 of them or only replaced the front (pre-cat) like most people, I'd replace them.

As far as turbos, If you are happy with the power your OEM turbos produce, stay with an OEM setup. The moment you go stage 1 or stage 2, you will be spending money on custom tunes, stage 2 LPFP, maybe a 3.5 bar TMAP sensor, inlets etc. Just an FYI....

Your best bet on an OEM turbo is Rob Beck's OEM Billet set up for $1149.00. They come with a better wastegate setup then OEM. You can upgrade the wastegates to a high heat SS version for $250 more.

RB's failure rate on his turbos is extremely impressive. Almost nill, nothing.

The only other expense would be the install kit for $175.00, which is far cheaper than FCP or ECS's versions.

[trb1]

I would recommend doing rod bearings instead of turbos.

[flipmode]

Originally Posted by trb1

I would recommend doing rod bearings instead of turbos.

Would I just order stock rod bearings and rod bolts from the dealer?

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by flipmode

Would I just order stock rod bearings and rod bolts from the dealer?

or just leave them alone.

[MooreBoost]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd also sandwich the OEM gasket in between two beads of Ultra Black.

As far as turbos, If you are happy with the power your OEM turbos produce, stay with an OEM setup.

Originally Posted by Jeef

or just leave them alone.

Good advice here.

Upgrading turbos is a rabbit hole and I wouldn't go messing with the rod bearings.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by flipmode

Would I just order stock rod bearings and rod bolts from the dealer?

I wouldn't order stock rod bearings.

Get King Pin std set from ECS tuning.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-king-par...r/cr222sv~kig/

Get the updated bolts from FCP Euro

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...lt-11247589671

Only thing is with Rod bearings, you need to make sure your torque wrench is almost dead on & you have an angle reader. You also need another set of bolts for the oil pump.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...um-11410426472

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by MooreBoost

Good advice here.

Upgrading turbos is a rabbit hole and I wouldn't go messing with the rod bearings.

Wait, you live in the same city as the world-renowned FREEDOM FACTORY??? Lucky guy!

[trb1]

Get king std bearings and OEM rod bolts, and an oil pump bolt kit. Will be <$200. People that say leave them alone are crazy. Youre already dropping the pan. It’s a few hours further beyond dropping the pan.

Look at my post history. I’ve done 3 bearing jobs in 4 months and they’ve all been between 100 and 140k on the engine and they’ve all been rather thrashed.

People who suggest rod bearings aren’t a weak point on this platform are in a state of denial.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by flipmode

So I'm about to replace my oil pan gasket as it has gotten to the point of dripping on the ground. At the same time, I will be installing new motor mounts as the car is approaching 140 000 Miles. The car is still on the stock turbos and surprisingly holding up very well with minimal wastegate rattle and have no issues with them. I really don't want to change them if I knew I could get 200K out of them, but I'm not sure if I should bite the bullet and replace them as I will have the engine suspended and motor mounts out. I'm not looking into a big upgrade, as I am happy with the current hp level on the car and don't want to spend a lot of money on an aging car. Maybe find a used set with low miles on them or also looking into the ebay 14T viv china turbo set which would give a small bump from stock. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Use this DIY as a reference, but don't use the ARP bolts. I think the jury is still out, regarding if that's a good idea or not.

Torque specs are :

20nm plus 70 degrees

Or

20nm plus 140 degrees depends on what source you
Believe ....

Workshop manual or NewTIS.

[Jeef]

can you explain higher mileage motors (180k++) not having "thrashed" rod bearings?

this engine was used and abused too.

[trb1]

Originally Posted by Jeef

can you explain higher mileage motors (180k++) not having "thrashed" rod bearings?

this engine was used and abused too.

Do you have pics of said rod bearings? My guess is no. Just cause it doesn’t knock doesn’t mean they aren’t thrashed. No need to be patronizing. People get defensive about bearings because they don’t want to believe it’s a real issue.

I’ll say this. My engine at 120k had better bearings than the N54 I pulled apart at 100k and 140k. It’s all a wash. That being said, my car still had copper streaks in one of the bearing shells. Which was highly maintained, to the point of probably too frequently.

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by trb1

Do you have pics of said rod bearings? My guess is no. Just cause it doesn’t knock doesn’t mean they aren’t thrashed. No need to be patronizing. People get defensive about bearings because they don’t want to believe it’s a real issue.

I’ll say this. My engine at 120k had better bearings than the N54 I pulled apart at 100k and 140k. It’s all a wash. That being said, my car still had copper streaks in one of the bearing shells. Which was highly maintained, to the point of probably too frequently.

I can try to dig them out if you really want to see them or you can just take my word lol.

182k Mile motor, 32+psi.., cylinder 4 detonated and melted a plug right off. chipped exhaust valve and drove this sucker home 5+hours then brought it to a shop a week later. bearings still looked fine. :

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by trb1

Do you have pics of said rod bearings? My guess is no. Just cause it doesn't knock doesn't mean they aren't thrashed. No need to be patronizing. People get defensive about bearings because they don't want to believe it's a real issue.

I'll say this. My engine at 120k had better bearings than the N54 I pulled apart at 100k and 140k. It's all a wash. That being said, my car still had copper streaks in one of the bearing shells. Which was highly maintained, to the point of probably too frequently.

What bearings did you use? What oil & viscosity are you using? Oil change interval?

[flipmode]

Originally Posted by trb1

Get king std bearings and OEM rod bolts, and an oil pump bolt kit. Will be <$200. People that say leave them alone are crazy. Youre already dropping the pan. It's a few hours further beyond dropping the pan.

Look at my post history. I've done 3 bearing jobs in 4 months and they've all been between 100 and 140k on the engine and they've all been rather thrashed.

People who suggest rod bearings aren't a weak point on this platform are in a state of denial.

When I go on ECSTUNING, they say sold in pairs, do they mean a pair does 2 connecting rods? They show a pic of 4 pieces as a pair. So I need to purchase 3 pairs?

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by flipmode

When I go on ECSTUNING, they say sold in pairs, do they mean a pair does 2 connecting rods? So I need to purchase 3 pairs?

I'm pretty sure its one pair for each con-rod. Video above shows 12 pieces total.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by flipmode

When I go on ECSTUNING, they say sold in pairs, do they mean a pair does 2 connecting rods? They show a pic of 4 pieces as a pair. So I need to purchase 3 pairs?

Yep. You'd need 3 pairs

[trb1]

Originally Posted by flipmode

When I go on ECSTUNING, they say sold in pairs, do they mean a pair does 2 connecting rods? They show a pic of 4 pieces as a pair. So I need to purchase 3 pairs?

3 pairs. Each box does 2 connecting rods. Buy off eBay. Substantially cheaper if I remember correctly. If you don’t have a nice torque wrench, pm me and I can ship you an angle finder to borrow + help you find a nice torque wrench.

[trb1]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

What bearings did you use? What oil & viscosity are you using? Oil change interval?

I replaced with king bearings. Look at the PDF on their website about their tolerances. It’s pretty cool.

Oil change brand/interval/viscosity is always a topic about bearings. I think it’s more of a question of detonation, fuel injector index, and fuel quality.

To answer both those questions:

Motul 5w-40, 3-5k intervals, oem filter, and I didn’t get into boost until oil temp hit 160.

I also only run 93+ meth and have index 12 injectors. It’s a wash. Shit happens.

[flipmode]

So the OEM connecting rod bolts are M9x47(Genuine BMW Part #11247589671)? Sorry for so many questions, just want to make sure I have all the correct parts.

[trb1]

Oem bolts x12: 11247589671 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11247589671/

King bearing shell pairs x3: CR222SV https://www.ecstuning.com/b-king-par...r/cr222sv~kig/

Oil pump bolt set x1: 11410426472 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11410426472/

[flipmode]

Originally Posted by trb1

Oem bolts x12: 11247589671 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11247589671/

King bearing shell pairs x3: CR222SV https://www.ecstuning.com/b-king-par...r/cr222sv~kig/

Oil pump bolt set x1: 11410426472 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11410426472/

Thanks! All parts ordered.......will post back with an update once I get the bearings removed.