[CobraMarty]

Originally Posted by E90cruisin

This makes even more sense. I feel the biggest difference up top, yesterday I felt it more than ever. I have a little strip of road I take every day, its my WOT road. Never anyone on it and its paved well. I usually hit about 80 (its not a long road, and I have to come to a stop at a stop sign), yesterday I was nearing 95, and the pull up top was noticeably different.

Cool!

We're sitting under snow and 10*F, so for those of us who have to live thru you in sunny FL, go out there and rip some WOT runs and 'adaptate'.

[tommyboyfl]

Does anyone know the part number of the 2 mounting bolts that hold down the support block? Not sure if anyone else had this experience, but I destroyed one while trying to re-tighten to the torque spec. Maybe they are stretch bolts, and the torque number can only be reached the first time they are tightened?

Also, I was not able to shoehorn the MILV blocks between the springs and rollers on some of the cylinders, no matter what position I rotated the camshaft to. I ended up removing some springs completely, and 'springing' for the spring removal/installation tool. MILV block goes in super easy once the spring is out of the way. Once I finish the job, I will put tool up in the 'for sale' section if anyone else wants to go that route.

[F31cruisin]

Originally Posted by tommyboyfl

Does anyone know the part number of the 2 mounting bolts that hold down the support block? Not sure if anyone else had this experience, but I destroyed one while trying to re-tighten to the torque spec. Maybe they are stretch bolts, and the torque number can only be reached the first time they are tightened?

Also, I was not able to shoehorn the MILV blocks between the springs and rollers on some of the cylinders, no matter what position I rotated the camshaft to. I ended up removing some springs completely, and 'springing' for the spring removal/installation tool. MILV block goes in super easy once the spring is out of the way. Once I finish the job, I will put tool up in the 'for sale' section if anyone else wants to go that route.

The tightening torque is VERY small. Were you measuring in inch pounds?

I also had trouble installing the blocks, and the MILV's needed quite a bit of persuasion to get in there. I was using a mallet most of the time.

[hassmaschine]

you could have just loosened the mounting bolts another turn or two - I did experiment with this and Marty's instructions are designed to be really safe, so there's still some margin in there if they won't slide in easily. It took quite a few turns for the bolts to come completely out (10 or more?), and I didn't care if the spring lost tension since I wasn't going to use that head anyway. You shouldn't need a hammer.

[CobraMarty]

Originally Posted by tommyboyfl

Does anyone know the part number of the 2 mounting bolts that hold down the support block? Not sure if anyone else had this experience, but I destroyed one while trying to re-tighten to the torque spec. Maybe they are stretch bolts, and the torque number can only be reached the first time they are tightened?

Also, I was not able to shoehorn the MILV blocks between the springs and rollers on some of the cylinders, no matter what position I rotated the camshaft to. I ended up removing some springs completely, and 'springing' for the spring removal/installation tool. MILV block goes in super easy once the spring is out of the way. Once I finish the job, I will put tool up in the 'for sale' section if anyone else wants to go that route.

Sorry to hear that you had to buy that spring removal/installation tool.
Let me know how much? I can offer it 'for rent' if anyone else would need it.
I didn't want to spring(pun) for the $250 to buy one.
You got the one that looks like it has a pair of vice grip pliers attached?

Bolt- from RealOEM.com
#07129904571
ASA-Bolt M6X23

[tommyboyfl]

The torque number I was going for was 120 in-lbs (10ft-lbs). I made it up to I'd say 7-8 ft-lbs (estimating by feel), then the turning became easier & I got that sickening feeling in my stomach. I stopped & removed the bolt, and it was stretched & necked to almost nothing midway down the threads. Just glad I didn't strip the threads out of the head - that's the thought that had me feeling sick in that moment.

So does anyone know the part # of the bolts?

[CobraMarty]

Bolt- from RealOEM.com
#07129904571
ASA-Bolt M6X23

[tommyboyfl]

That's the one! Marty, you're a peach. Thanks, man. Everyone, please buy your MILV's from Marty! (not like you could get them anywhere else anyways)

[CobraMarty]

Thanks for the kind words and feedback.

The spacer washers are 1/4" grade 8 which are thicker than regular steel washers. They are 0.090" thick. That is what I used before. But maybe if the current batch of washers are a bit thinner than what I had before, that could be where the problem is.

So I just found 1/4" washers 0.125" thick. Ordered a bunch and will try these so that the install will be smoother/easier.

[varoadking]

Crossposting from the 1Addicts Forum

The baseline dyno (red) is a 2012 128i with:
Tiptronic Automatic
BMW Euro airbox with K&N conical filter
BMW 3 stage intake manifold with disa valves
Stock downtubes, cats (front and rear), and resonator
BMW Performance exhaust
BPC tune
Sprint Booster Module

The updated dyno (blue) incorporates all of the above with the addition of:
MILVS
BPC MILVS tune



The car pulls very hard, almost like the gearing was changed. I wanted to drive all the way home from Raleigh on I85/I95 in 3rd gear. 5,000rpm to 6,000rpm is a downright hoot...

[CobraMarty]

Nice work by everyone involved.

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

Nice work by everyone involved.

I didn't do shit...

I'll get the takeoff supports in the mail to you tomorrow, Marty...thanks...

[CobraMarty]

Not true, You believed and took a leap of faith, spent $ and put your beautiful car on the line.
It is for that I appreciate your work.

Glad you smiled the whole way home.

Who's next?

[tlow98]

Solid gains! Love the N52 exploration

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Solid gains! Love the N52 exploration

I'm well pleased with the car now...it's like it should have been made by BMW in the first place.

The MILVS seem to help more than just with "numbers"...the "grunt" the car seems to have now is pretty awesome...

BTW - if y'all are on the fence about MILVS...believe me...Marty's handiwork, along with a BPC tune, is the real deal...

[PORTMOODY]

this is great news. Gotta get going on my install.

[varoadking]

Crossposting from 1Addicts again.

Bob sent over a chart with my latest dyno numbers overlaid on a bone stock N52 automatic dyno.

My little 128i with the modifications to date is up 40whp over stock...for a 21.75% increase in whp. The last 7+wph is due to MILVS and the BPC MILVS tune.

[Volasko]

Originally Posted by varoadking

Crossposting from 1Addicts again.

Bob sent over a chart with my latest dyno numbers overlaid on a bone stock N52 automatic dyno.

My little 128i with the modifications to date is up 40whp over stock...for a 21.75% increase in whp. The last 7+wph is due to MILVS and the BPC MILVS tune.

Thats what I'm talking about. Some real gains!

[Bufalo]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

the MAF sensor is used primarily for emissions reasons - the N52 doesn't even need it, and IMO, it runs best without it.

So going further off topic, and I apologize -

Are we capable of reprogramming the car to just ignore the MAF? I've got an X3 that doesn't want to idle correctly and keeps throwing an HFM code that won't clear. I've swapped the sensors between my 328 and my X3: both work in my 3 and throw a code in the X. If I unplug the sensor, the car runs and idles fine, but the transmission shift quality turns into s**t quality. If the car could be flashed to just run without the MAF I'd probably be back in action with it; right now it just sits as it stalls at idle constantly. No vacuum leaks that I can find, I've had it apart hunting for them several times.


OK, back to MILV's, which I want for my 3 series!

[hassmaschine]

Possibly. the X3 is an odd duck when it comes to flashing though - it runs MSV80.1 like an N51, but it's an N52N, etc.

PM me so we don't clutter this thread if you want to discuss further.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by varoadking

Crossposting from 1Addicts again.

Bob sent over a chart with my latest dyno numbers overlaid on a bone stock N52 automatic dyno.

My little 128i with the modifications to date is up 40whp over stock...for a 21.75% increase in whp. The last 7+wph is due to MILVS and the BPC MILVS tune.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/WWy7aXe.png[/im]

Crazy and awesome to see that N52 Autos will likely see ~235whp if you added headers to this set-up. Plus, that torque increase everywhere is even more significant. N52 life is pretty good right now.

Thanks for posting, as ever.

[CobraMarty]

'What about custom reground cams'? This is asked all the time.

1- Very expensive and expensive install
2-

Originally Posted by justpete

Regrinds appear to not produce any extra power even when mechanically retimed to cancel the ground in advance.

So that kills Valvetronic afaic. That means a complicated N54 cam conversion to the head or a swap to an S54. Might drop in some MILVs for the time being.