[W37V]

Originally Posted by cwlo

I'm the other person that broke a bolt. After reading this thread, there was thought that a thicker washer would make install easier, so I went straight to 2 washers. If I had done the 1 washer first, I would have known how it was supposed to proceed, but with the 2 thinner 1/4" washers, (not grade 8 like marty supplies), it would not fully fit under the spring pad, so it angled the spring pad. Well, not knowing this was not right, I tightened it down and the spring pad flattened out. I pulled the MILV spacer out, and then tried to get the new one in, but it did not go in. I went back in the house to review the procedure that is in this thread....went back to garage and decided to try the 1 washer, so I started to loosen the bolt, and it immediately snapped. Now, I was using a 1/4" ratchet on this bolt the whole time, and didn't torque it hard, but I think the spring tension and angled pad put a lot of force on a very small area, thus stretching the bolt. Then when I tried to loosen it, the force in the other direction finished it off.

So, my problem was largely because of operator error. Now that I've used the single washer, that part of the procedure is pretty straight forward. However, I still cannot get a new MILV in there, with the roller wheels underneath. My issue is the two rollers are retracted back. I spent a little time working them forward, and trying to wedge them underneath, but stopped with it, as I need to get the valvetronic tool now for the one spring that came off, so might as well use it for all of them. Anyway, are some people saying they did not have to deal with this, and the MILV just slid right in? If so, what was different? Bottom line, a video would be immensely helpful in being able to see exactly where the cam lobe is positioned, ease of MILV insertion, etc.. Then one would know exactly how it should proceed, and not stray from that.

I shared my videos with you.

Also here is pic how the shim needs to be for easier access:

[W37V]

Originally Posted by weehe126

You probably have the cam in the wrong spot like I did. Cam lobe needs to be vertical or just past vertical and it will slide right out/in.

To clarify: Vertical with the engine. Engine is slanted. If it is vertical to the ground, then you went too far and will have issues.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by W37V

To clarify: Vertical with the engine. Engine is slanted. If it is vertical to the ground, then you went too far and will have issues.

I went vertical/just past vertical with ground and had no issues. I do have a N55 so may be different cams.

[hassmaschine]

Maybe it would make more sense to just describe what you really want - that is, the cam lobe needs to be pointed away from the intermediate rockers so that there is no pressure on them. With the lifters not under pressure and the engine stationary, you should be able to move the rockers a little bit with your fingers. If there's pressure from the camshaft on the rockers it's going to cause problems.

[cwlo]

Ok Thanks W37V. I looked over your videos, and tried it on mine and it went smoothly.

Video is worth a thousand words! With very little persuasion of the rollers, the spacer went in smoothly. From the pictorial earlier in the thread, it was mentioned they needed to be lightly hammered in, which should probably be edited out, as it leads one to believe it takes a bit of persuasion.

Ideas of a thicker spacer should also be deleted....the supplied one works fine once the proper procedure is understood.

Chris

[W37V]

Originally Posted by cwlo

Ok Thanks W37V. I looked over your videos, and tried it on mine and it went smoothly.

Video is worth a thousand words! With very little persuasion of the rollers, the spacer went in smoothly. From the pictorial earlier in the thread, it was mentioned they needed to be lightly hammered in, which should probably be edited out, as it leads one to believe it takes a bit of persuasion.

Ideas of a thicker spacer should also be deleted....the supplied one works fine once the proper procedure is understood.

Chris

I am glad you found it helpful.

[PORTMOODY]

can I get the video. I need to install too.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

can I get the video. I need to install too.

Done

[CobraMarty]

You guys all ROCK!

Thank you for pitching in with your experience and tips.
A type of 'Group Sharing' 'Open Source'.

[CobraMarty]

WASHERS?

So which one works best?

-'plain jane' bigger diameter-0.73", 0.05" thick, 1/4"
-grade 8 'gold color' smaller diameter-0.61", 0.08" thick, 1/4"
-thicker 0.125" 1/4"
-'plain jane' 5/16"

I suspect that the 'plain jane' bigger diameter-0.73", 0.05" thick, 1/4" is the washer/spacer of choice.
When I measure the 'spring relief divit' on the support it is only about 0.03-0.04" deep. It is this 'spring relief divit' that keeps the supports/MILVs from sliding out/in.

On the MILVs, I could machine out the 'spring divit' so that it is flat with the bottom of the 'divit' and should slide right in without needing the washer/spacers but you would still need the washers to remove the stock supports.

[hassmaschine]

When I did mine on the junk head I used two washers and it worked out fine. I'm not sure why a thicker washer would cause the bolt to bend - I think that would only be caused if you still have pressure on the rockers from the cam lobe being pointed the wrong way. Otherwise the only force on the bolt will be the spring itself, which is relatively small compared to the strength of a steel bolt.

One think to consider (and why I used two washers) is some heads will have a build up on the inside of the head. On this particular one, it was thick enough that there just wasn't enough room to slide the MILVS over top of the crud built up in the engine. I'd think most N52s don't have that issue though (this one was really high miles).

[cwlo]

In my case, the double washer setup created problems because it did not fit fully under the spring. Tightening the bolt did bring the spring base down square, but that process stressed the bolt on a very small area which must have stretched it. Hass, I am guessing you backed the bolt off more than 5 turns in order to fit the double washers underneath fully?

Anyway, in my opinion for whatever its worth, the process with the one washer works well and is straightforward. However, the valve assembly on this head is a bit more complex than just about anything I've encountered over the years. A more concise set of instructions with video or good photo's will allow one to see exactly how the process works, and what the parameters are with regard to removing and fitting the spacers. This will eliminate most problems, and disallow anyone from straying from the prescribed process.

Chris

[CobraMarty]

Yeah the washers have to be pushed all the way in so the spring sits flat.

I got some other washers to try.
I also got a piece of 12-gauge(0.1046") x 3/4" flat stock and was going to make a 3-4" long with a slot on the end, sort of like a washer with a handle on it.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by W37V

Done

Can I get the video, too? I'm fixing to install when my vcc needs a gasket job. Thanks a bunch!

[W37V]

Originally Posted by yupetc

Can I get the video, too? I'm fixing to install when my vcc needs a gasket job. Thanks a bunch!

Videos are not edited yet, but are on YouTube. Search YouTube for milvs and you will find them.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by cwlo

In my case, the double washer setup created problems because it did not fit fully under the spring. Tightening the bolt did bring the spring base down square, but that process stressed the bolt on a very small area which must have stretched it. Hass, I am guessing you backed the bolt off more than 5 turns in order to fit the double washers underneath fully?

Anyway, in my opinion for whatever its worth, the process with the one washer works well and is straightforward. However, the valve assembly on this head is a bit more complex than just about anything I've encountered over the years. A more concise set of instructions with video or good photo's will allow one to see exactly how the process works, and what the parameters are with regard to removing and fitting the spacers. This will eliminate most problems, and disallow anyone from straying from the prescribed process.

Chris

yes, I backed it out more than 5 turns. It took a lot more than 5 turns to remove the bolt entirely (I want to say it was 20-25 before it came out). I didn't have issues with the spring not sitting flat with 2 washers.

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

Yeah the washers have to be pushed all the way in so the spring sits flat.

Yes definitely, I can see how if you only backed it out the ~5 turns and tried the thicker/double washer, that could bend something. I basically just loosened the bolt until the point where I could slide both washers in flush with the spring. I didn't really care if one came out all the way (they didn't) so I was willing to experiment a bit with it.

[yupetc]

Originally Posted by W37V

Videos are not edited yet, but are on YouTube. Search YouTube for milvs and you will find them.

Thanks a bunch!

[W37V]

Aaaaand.... I can't install the tune. Huge disappointment. My BPC Genius tool keeps giving me an error code saying that protocol is not compatible.

[hassmaschine]

Has it been tuned before?

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by W37V

Aaaaand.... I can't install the tune. Huge disappointment. My BPC Genius tool keeps giving me an error code saying that protocol is not compatible.

I went through the same. In my case I had a BPC 3IM tune before a minor accident. After the accident I installed MILVs and headers, and then attempted to install a new BPC tune for MILV’s/Headers/3IM and kept getting the “incompatible protocol” message.

Turned out that after the accident the bodyshop I used had flashed my ecu back to stock and erased the first BPC tune. They did this to code a new headlight module they installed.

Did something happen between when you first emailed your stock tune and installing the new tune BPC sent you for MILV’s?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Has it been tuned before?

It’s currently running on BPC tune. The last time I used it was to flash the tune on the car. Nothing changed. I get the error regardless if the device is powered by usb or by obd port. I can’t even update the device. Computer software just stops working after a while.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I went through the same. In my case I had a BPC 3IM tune before a minor accident. After the accident I installed MILVs and headers, and then attempted to install a new BPC tune for MILV’s/Headers/3IM and kept getting the “incompatible protocol” message.

Turned out that after the accident the bodyshop I used had flashed my ecu back to stock and erased the first BPC tune. They did this to code a new headlight module they installed.

Did something happen between when you first emailed your stock tune and installing the new tune BPC sent you for MILV’s?

Highly doubt it’s car related. It might be corrupted software on the device, cuz first thing the app did upon launch was run the update. Last time I used it was to flash the car. No changes to the car software were done since. When I try to update the tool, the update process just hangs and never completes.