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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Fuel rail pressure sensor removal?
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10-18-2017, 10:43 AM | #1 |
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Fuel rail pressure sensor removal?
Hey my JBD fried my Fuel Rail Pressure sensor and I have one on the way. My question is does the 335d maintain pressure in the fuel rail even when car is turned off? If so how would one bleed the system to remove the sensor? Also I am guessing I will have to use Software to reprime the system once sensor is replaced? Any registering for the new sensor? Thanks in advance.
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10-18-2017, 12:04 PM | #2 |
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you will need something to prime the system.. or hotwire the fuel pump if you know how to do so...
it doesn't look like there is a bleed screw of any sort.. first thing I would do is use something like torque app and see if there was any pressure in the system or use a handheld scan tool to check... if there was (me personally) I would crack a fuel line to one of the injectors just a little... |
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10-18-2017, 01:51 PM | #3 | |
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10-18-2017, 06:33 PM | #4 |
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There's no pressure in the rail. Just unscrew the sensor.
You don't need to prime the fuel system as the lpfp won't push fuel past the hpfp. The only way to get fuel in the rail and up to pressure is by cranking the engine, since the hpfp has fuel, there's little to worry about. Some crack the injector lines but, I never did as I didnt want it to make a huge mess on the engine. |
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10-21-2017, 04:38 PM | #7 |
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10-21-2017, 04:50 PM | #8 |
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10-21-2017, 06:42 PM | #9 |
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07-29-2018, 03:38 PM | #10 |
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Resurrecting an old thread guys but getting fauld code 4340- Rail pressure control valve
Was that the code you had OP? My cars not starting but it’s getting a good crank 13537805733 Is the corrrct part to solve the problem |
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08-14-2018, 06:33 AM | #11 | |
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Pretty sure this is the one here. I bought a used one for a lot less: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/144625...SABEgJR1fD_BwE |
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10-04-2018, 06:33 AM | #12 | |
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10-05-2018, 06:55 PM | #13 |
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FYI, when I did my engine swap I didnt need to reprime the fuel system to get the car going. You should be able to get away with turning turning the ignition on and off to the accessories position a few times. That should be enough to prime the system and get you started.
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10-05-2018, 10:57 PM | #14 |
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Turning ignition on and off only does a small squirt. You would be doing that hundred of times to prime. Suggest a proper prime with ISTA or other tools or jump the lpfp.
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10-06-2018, 11:42 AM | #15 |
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If it was only a small squirt, then it was enough to get things going. The engine I put in had all fluids drained, including gas. When I put everything back together, I didn't do anything special for the fuel system. I cycled the ignition a few times and got the car started relatively quickly.
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10-06-2018, 03:13 PM | #16 |
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I've had to replace the high pressure fuel line to injector #6 and I couldn't get the car started until I put everything back together.
Unbolt the high pressure metal fuel line on cylinder #1. With a hand vacuum pump connected to a reservoir to the fuel rail, pump out the air and crank the engine a few times. You'll see a lot of air bubbles coming out with the fuel. Pump as much air out as possible. I did about 3-4 cranks. Reconnect the hard fuel line back to the #1 injector. It will take about 3-4 cranks until enough fuel pressure is generated. Pain in the ass, but it was the only way I could get the car running. Priming the LPFP does not work. It's only good for the Fuel Filter. Trust me. It took me a week to figure it out. A trip to Harbor Freight for the vacuum pump and Advanced Auto to find a rubber elbow that would fit the rail connection. |
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