[WhiteFury]

So I had my camber locked in at -1.5 and was happy. Lowered the front .5 inch more and the rear wont go anymore positive than -1.9. I want to get the rear back to -1.4/-1.5 so that it will be right on spec, cause I do alot of daily and highway driving.

Which of these are better? Bavauto or turner? Bavauto is $100 less. Also will they make the suspension more harsh? No sure about that.


go to bavauto.com and search this part = Part # : 193926

Here is the turner one: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-31...ac-street.aspx


Thanks guys!

[mlifxs]

How much did you lower? Any other alternatives for correcting your alignment?
That money would pay for a lot of increased tire wear and the negative camber might be more fun.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

How much did you lower? Any other alternatives for correcting your alignment?
That money would pay for a lot of increased tire wear and the negative camber might be more fun.

I lowered 1.9 front and 1.5 rear. Eibach pro kit is 1 inch rear but I am a XI so its probably more like 1.3-1.5. There are these, but I believe the affect toe and push the top of the wheel out? These are spherical bearings and I am sure more vibes with them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADJUSTABLE-R...203904&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Racing...b8eaeb&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Racing...b8eaeb&vxp=mtr

[cvc 22349a]

Which rear linkage do those adjustable camber bushings press in to? That's wise to dial out some neg camber in the rear. I can't get less than -1.8d in the rear due to lowering and insides of my tires do wear more than the rest of the tread.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

Which rear linkage do those adjustable camber bushings press in to? That's wise to dial out some neg camber in the rear. I can't get less than -1.8d in the rear due to lowering and insides of my tires do wear more than the rest of the tread.

Presses into the factory location for more adjustment.


My question is the upper control arms pull in to create more negative camber and the lower control arm that the spring sits on pushes out to poke the bottom of the tire out creating more negative camber correct?

That would mean it would be better for camber arms as if the top pulls in and bottom pushes out. Just using bushings to pull the bottom back in would still leave the top pushed in therefore less wheelbase on a small scale.

Maybe camber arms are more cost effective.

[Casca]

I got a Ground Control coil-over kit almost the same week I got my BMW. My kit included the rear lower M3 camber arm that holds the shocks. You can adjust camber with it. Do non-M3 rear lower control arm not have a spot for eccentric bolts to adjust camber?

I recently had my car aligned to -1.8 camber per side for the rear, but looking at the service sheet, it was initially -1.3 on the left and -1.4 on the right (I did a lot of suspension work, everything was out of whack).

Maybe look at this for rear camber OP

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...83886/ES57594/


Edit:
I can see now that the non-M3 arms can also adjust camber. Maybe it was the other M3 arms that allowed me to have -1.3, dunno. I just know I had -1.3/-1.4 rear camber when I brought the car in to the shop and that they can get it to -2 camber if I wanted. And my car is lowered to the point of being tucked with 265 19's