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      06-07-2020, 07:02 PM   #1
Salzamani
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Stripped Thread! Motherflupkgdjchhd!!!

Has anyone ever stripped this area that the E18 bolt threads into? It’s the strut brace on the firewall side in the center. Any successful solutions?
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Last edited by Salzamani; 06-07-2020 at 07:23 PM..
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      06-07-2020, 07:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Has anyone ever stripped this area that the E18 bolt threads into? It’s the strut brace on the firewall side. Any successful solutions?
Not the firewall side but I’ve at least partially stripped the other end at the strut tower - just enough that the bolt still threads in but then spins once close to fully tight. Since the bolt will stay on my car I haven’t done anything about it. But, given how easily that area stripped, I’m thinking it wouldn’t be too difficult to lay in new threads with a slightly larger bolt or a tap. At least this stripped thread won’t keep your car from being driveable!
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      06-07-2020, 07:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE_VT_E92 View Post
Not the firewall side but I’ve at least partially stripped the other end at the strut tower - just enough that the bolt still threads in but then spins once close to fully tight. Since the bolt will stay on my car I haven’t done anything about it. But, given how easily that area stripped, I’m thinking it wouldn’t be too difficult to lay in new threads with a slightly larger bolt or a tap. At least this stripped thread won’t keep your car from being driveable!
True. Yeah apparently it’s suppose to be torqued at 74 ft-lb plus an additional 100 degrees. This thing might have been stripped even before so bought the car. I got it to about 50 lbs and then I noticed it wasn’t getting tighter so I immediately stopped so that I wouldn’t make it worse. I’m not getting any noise which has me wondering if I should even sweat it... I just like my stuff right man.
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      06-07-2020, 09:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
True. Yeah apparently it’s suppose to be torqued at 74 ft-lb plus an additional 100 degrees. This thing might have been stripped even before so bought the car. I got it to about 50 lbs and then I noticed it wasn’t getting tighter so I immediately stopped so that I wouldn’t make it worse. I’m not getting any noise which has me wondering if I should even sweat it... I just like my stuff right man.
I can’t imagine torquing that much on those... mine stripped at waaaay less than that. I’d not sweat it much and if it really bugs you down the road I imagine a cross-tower type strut brace would help to keep things tight. I loosen my strut braces often to change the damping on my Koni’s and I never torque to spec, just to “feels like tight enough”, at least for the one that isn’t partially stripped....

Others may chime in with legitimate reasons why those need to be torqued so tightly, though, so maybe we’ll both learn something.
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      06-07-2020, 10:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE_VT_E92 View Post
I can’t imagine torquing that much on those... mine stripped at waaaay less than that. I’d not sweat it much and if it really bugs you down the road I imagine a cross-tower type strut brace would help to keep things tight. I loosen my strut braces often to change the damping on my Koni’s and I never torque to spec, just to “feels like tight enough”, at least for the one that isn’t partially stripped....

Others may chime in with legitimate reasons why those need to be torqued so tightly, though, so maybe we’ll both learn something.
Great input. Incidentally, I took off a B12 Prokit after installing it just last month. Cool at first but a little to rough for my taste. Just got done installing Koni Special Actives on my stock sport suspension. The car doesn’t sit as nice off the ground but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I look at it differently now. I now know that the higher stance equals more comfort no way around it. With that in mind the wheel gap doesn’t look that bad to me anymore. Which Koni’s do you have and on which springs?
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      06-08-2020, 11:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Has anyone ever stripped this area that the E18 bolt threads into? It's the strut brace on the firewall side in the center. Any successful solutions?
You will need a helicoil
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      06-08-2020, 05:32 PM   #7
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You will need a helicoil
Helicoil? Never heard of it. What is that?
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      06-08-2020, 05:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Helicoil? Never heard of it. What is that?
Coil insert that substitute the thread you stripped. Since you haven’t heard of it probably better to have experienced tech tackle the job.
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      06-08-2020, 06:00 PM   #9
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Coil insert that substitute the thread you stripped. Since you haven’t heard of it probably better to have experienced tech tackle the job.
Good advise thank you!
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      06-08-2020, 08:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
You will need a helicoil
Helicoil? Never heard of it. What is that?
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      06-08-2020, 08:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Great input. Incidentally, I took off a B12 Prokit after installing it just last month. Cool at first but a little to rough for my taste. Just got done installing Koni Special Actives on my stock sport suspension. The car doesn’t sit as nice off the ground but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I look at it differently now. I now know that the higher stance equals more comfort no way around it. With that in mind the wheel gap doesn’t look that bad to me anymore. Which Koni’s do you have and on which springs?
I have Koni yellows on stock XDrive springs (e92) - I didn’t particularly want to lower my car in the northeast with our snowy winters and crazy potholes. So far I’m 100% satisfied!

Helicoil is a good suggestion for that stripped bolt hole.... I don’t imagine it would be very expensive either. A local Indy shop can probably get that done for you.
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      06-09-2020, 01:15 AM   #12
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Thank you for the video

Is that for one time use only? Meaning everyone you take the bolt out you gotta redo it again? or is that suppose to be a permanent fix?
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      06-09-2020, 01:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAVAGE_VT_E92 View Post
I have Koni yellows on stock XDrive springs (e92) - I didn’t particularly want to lower my car in the northeast with our snowy winters and crazy potholes. So far I’m 100% satisfied!

Helicoil is a good suggestion for that stripped bolt hole.... I don’t imagine it would be very expensive either. A local Indy shop can probably get that done for you.
Thanks for sharing your experience Savage
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      06-09-2020, 08:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salzamani View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Thank you for the video

Is that for one time use only? Meaning everyone you take the bolt out you gotta redo it again? or is that suppose to be a permanent fix?
That's a permanent fix.

I think you are referring to aluminum bolts etc.

It doesn't matter which what type of bolt you use.

You just need to decide what size helicoil to use.
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      06-23-2020, 04:28 PM   #15
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If its accessible and easy to reach, and you are "medium good" with tools, you can install the Helicoil without a shop using a power hand drill and hand tap. Using only hand tools, I once put 18 helicoils into the block of a Z3 after it got too hot and the head bolts stripped out. Worked great. Then a month later I rear-ended a car that some idiot had parked in the Mumford lane on the freeway at night, and all my problems with that car were over.

Owning Beemers is sure fun. I love being confused about what probably broke and then fixing things once, twice, three times! Gosh it's great!

Last edited by bestinhouse; 06-23-2020 at 04:32 PM.. Reason: Don't need the Helicoil I'll bet
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      06-23-2020, 04:31 PM   #16
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Oh, by the way, why use a Helicoil in the first place? This is just a support strut, so ay bolt willhold it down.

Just drill out the hole a slightly larger size, and using the matching size tap, tap the larger hole with new threads, and use a different bolt that matches the new threaded hole.

No need to go through the Helicoil trouble and expense, unless you just HAVE to use the old bolt. KISS.
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      06-23-2020, 06:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestinhouse View Post
Oh, by the way, why use a Helicoil in the first place? This is just a support strut, so ay bolt willhold it down.

Just drill out the hole a slightly larger size, and using the matching size tap, tap the larger hole with new threads, and use a different bolt that matches the new threaded hole.

No need to go through the Helicoil trouble and expense, unless you just HAVE to use the old bolt. KISS.
Makes sense to me (☞゚∀゚)☞
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      06-23-2020, 07:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestinhouse View Post
Oh, by the way, why use a Helicoil in the first place? This is just a support strut, so ay bolt willhold it down.

Just drill out the hole a slightly larger size, and using the matching size tap, tap the larger hole with new threads, and use a different bolt that matches the new threaded hole.

No need to go through the Helicoil trouble and expense, unless you just HAVE to use the old bolt. KISS.
Was just about to say the same thing. And while Helicoils are designed to be permanent, often they are not.
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