[Merlin051]

I've got an 2011 320d effdyn with an intermittent engine light and power loss.

I've done a fair bit of googlefu and I think it's pointing towards my turbo actuator. I've got 6 codes on the DDE/DME modules.
4755
4752
4521
4D96
449B
481C

I've checked the actuator on ignition of the car and it seems to function fine with no clicks, but given the intermittent nature it could still be bad.

If I buy a different actuator, do I need it to be programmed to the car, if so is it possible to do this with INPA (or other software)

Thanks!

[bfleming]

The actuators on our cars are self calibrating, so a secondhand one will work straight away. There is a place in the midlands that do refurbishments if that's the route you choose - http://www.ecutesting.com. Most breakers will only sell you one with a turbo - as will BMW for megamoney.
I did lots of faultfinding on mine, which I traced to a faulty ECU (it had been out for reprogramming, and damaged in the process by the guy that opened it).
My actuator was made by Hella, part number 6NW010099-02, also marked 49335-19400. BMW don't list an individual part number.

[Merlin051]

Thanks that's good to know.

I've seen the actuator self calibration routine when the ignition starts which is why I'm not entirely sure it's actually got a problem.

But with it being an intermittent fault it's hard to pin down. I've read that the turbo could be carboned up so I might try removing the actuator and spraying some brake cleaner in.

[bfleming]

Taking the actuator off is straightforward enough...
- remove the air intake (3x torx screws)
- remove the airbox (2x 10mm bolts, 1x jubilee clip, unplug the air flow meter)

You now have good access to the actuator.
- remove the spring clip holding the plastic arm to the actuator CAREFULLY - it will want to ping off, never to be seen again
- undo the connector plug to the actuator unit
- remove 3x 10mm nuts on the rear side of the actuator, and slide the unit backwards straight off the plastic actuator arm

At this stage you can test the arm on the turbo for free smooth movement.

There are 6 spring clips holding the electrical side of the actuator to the mechanical side. Popping the clips off will allow you to separate the halves, and you can inspect it for obvious signs of damage, i.e. broken gears etc. There's not a lot more you can do yourself though. The test houses will plug it in & test the full range of movements etc, and repair if necessary. The charge is usually less if they can't find a fault.

Hope this helps.

[bfleming]

What did you read these codes with - and was there any description with them? I can't help but think it's DPF related, as I don't think any of those codes are related to the actuator.

[Merlin051]

They were read with INPA using a USB to serial cable. I've just finished configuring a new diagnostic software so I'll try and get a re-read today with some actual descriptions.

I don't recall seeing anything DPF related when i manually looked up the codes in the INPA XML file.

Thanks for your advice

[bfleming]

Do you have Ediabas - on the BMW software it's labelled as Tool32 or ToolSet32? I ask as that's a better way to read codes of a specific model than INPA.
The steps for using it are as follows:
Open INPA, and get your connection established. Select your car, then select F2 - Identification. Under the Identification screen you should get a table of all the readable modules fitted to your car. On the left hand side you'll see the generic name of the module, you're looking for DME/DDE. A couple of columns over on the right the SGBD is listed - for my car it was D72N47B0 - write yours down.
Close INPA, and open Tool32 / ToolSet32. On the top left click open file, then navigate to D72N47B0.prg (or the one you wrote down, if different). Wait for it to open.
When it does open, the command list may be in German, but click on a command called Fehlerspeicher Lesen (means read error memory!). The command Fehlerspeicher Loeschen means Delete Error Memory. There is also a historical memory on there called (I think) Internes Fehlerspeicher - you can also read & delete that.
I find the advantage with this method of code reading is that it will give you a description of the fault, i.e. words! They might be German words, but words all the same. Post them on here if you get stuck with translations & I'll help. It also gives you the frequency of the fault, and possibly also time/date/mileage of occurrence.
Ediabas is reasonable failsafe, and for specific programming you need to input additional command fields. For memory reading it's just a double click on the memory lines.
Hope this helps.

[Merlin051]

Hi,

I've re-read the codes and I now have the following:

004752 4752 Boost pressure actuator, position control
004521 4521 Boost pressure control, control deviation
004755 4755 Boost pressure actuator, position control
004D96 4D96 Exhaust pressure sensor before turbocharger, range
00449B 449B Charging pressure actuator, position sensor or status line
00481C 481C Boost pressure actuator, activation

I think this sounds like actuator problems?

[bfleming]

It sure looks that way. Take it off & check the movement of the arm attached to the turbo. It may be that side that's seized rather than the actuator itself.

[Merlin051]

I've had my intake pipe off and the actuator and everything seems ok. The turbo vane arm seems like it's not as free as it should be and perhaps is carboned up.

Is there a way to chemically clean the exchaust side without removing the turbo completely?

I've seen some guys on the Mondeo forums drilling and tapping a cleaning port into the turbo body and using Mr Muscle oven cleaner and they swear by it.

Sounds bonkers but it's got to be better than replacing the whole turbo.

[ukw]

Originally Posted by Merlin051

I've had my intake pipe off and the actuator and everything seems ok. The turbo vane arm seems like it's not as free as it should be and perhaps is carboned up.

Is there a way to chemically clean the exchaust side without removing the turbo completely?

I've seen some guys on the Mondeo forums drilling and tapping a cleaning port into the turbo body and using Mr Muscle oven cleaner and they swear by it.

Sounds bonkers but it's got to be better than replacing the whole turbo.

Hello, I've the same problem as you with the exact model and year. Any update on what you did to solve the problem?
Thanks!