[ajsalida]

The thing I hated about this job on jack stands is dropping the subframe and supporting the engine from underneath, and working around all that clutter. Then I got one of those harbor freight engine support things that go across the front fender wells, and you use a tow hook in the hole near the oil filter to support the engine from the top.

Easy peasy now and no cramped spaces or weird jacks and blocks underneath while working. BTW you don't really even need to support the subframe much, it hangs there by itself. Getting to the point that the subframe is down and out of the way is a 30 min step tops, as easy as removing the plastic covers underneath. You do have to remove the plastic valve cover up top to get room to get the tow hook into the hole near the oil filter.

[whiteCanadian335xi]

How long does it usually take? How much installed at a shop? I know that it depends on shop rate.Just looking for how many hours for a 335xi e92

[deadmn1337]

Originally Posted by whiteCanadian335xi

How long does it usually take? How much installed at a shop? I know that it depends on shop rate.Just looking for how many hours for a 335xi e92

I personally can do it in about 3 hours and I'm pretty sure most shops do it in about that time as well.

[whiteCanadian335xi]

Originally Posted by deadmn1337

I personally can do it in about 3 hours and I'm pretty sure most shops do it in about that time as well.

Oh okay thanks. Just wondering because a shop just quote me 6hrs...

[GSR187T]

Nice Info....thanks

[blbrchnk]

I have had vrsf dp's in my garage since x-mas. I am dying to put em in but scared off by all of the stories of difficulty. I am not adverse to turning a wrench but I know this will end up being an all day affair. I might just buckle down and do it this weekend.

[fmonteiro444]

As soon as it warms up enough here I will be installing my DP's. I still need to order an engine support bar from Harbor Freight.

[blbrchnk]

Well kudos to those that did this in under 5 hours.

Doing mine on jackstands. Got it all removed but took me about 8 hours :-/. Granted that was with eating lunch and dinner and two trips to the store (once for crows feet and once for just a big 22mm wrench to get the o2 sensors off).

I had the damnedest time getting the pipes out after taking off the v-clamp. The stock pipes had a little nut/screw near the rear O2 sensor that made getting the front one out a pain. This piece wasn't mentioned in the guide because aftermarket dps don't use it. I just had to bend the tab back with vise grips and it let me slide the do out.

Anyhow, I gave up for the evening. Was trying to put the v -clamp on the rear turbo an couldn't get it flush to save my life. There is no room there at all. Any suggestions??

[Pr0metheus]

anyone have specs for torque on sub frame bolts?

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by Pr0metheus

anyone have specs for torque on sub frame bolts?

Try here, I've used this table in the past and compared some values to shop manuals, they seem to agree:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802982

[alwayseuro]

Anyone had a problem with the clamp that goes around the turbo and the downpipe? The clamp is just a hair to far apart to start threading it.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

The thing I hated about this job on jack stands is dropping the subframe and supporting the engine from underneath, and working around all that clutter. Then I got one of those harbor freight engine support things that go across the front fender wells, and you use a tow hook in the hole near the oil filter to support the engine from the top.

Easy peasy now and no cramped spaces or weird jacks and blocks underneath while working. BTW you don't really even need to support the subframe much, it hangs there by itself. Getting to the point that the subframe is down and out of the way is a 30 min step tops, as easy as removing the plastic covers underneath. You do have to remove the plastic valve cover up top to get room to get the tow hook into the hole near the oil filter.

This has me thinking I might give this a shot on my own.

I've done my valve cover gasket, both front wheel bearings, suspension removal and coilover install, fmic, oil filte housing gasket and a bunch of other stuff to my car, in my garage.

I've got just about all the tools I think I'll need. Milwaukee 1/2" Fuel M18 Impact, large socket collection, wrenches, torx etc etc.

Do you think, given my experience with repairs/jobs so far... that doing DP's on my xi is within reason? Can you rate/compare it to anything I've done above? Bearings were a PITA! I figure after doing those (4x... screwed up both sides so took them apart and installed twice each front wheel... awful!).

I got quotes a couple years ago of $900-$1000 to install. Ridiculous. This sounds almost fun compared to doing some bearings again!

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by stashtrey

This has me thinking I might give this a shot on my own.

I've done my valve cover gasket, both front wheel bearings, suspension removal and coilover install, fmic, oil filte housing gasket and a bunch of other stuff to my car, in my garage.

I've got just about all the tools I think I'll need. Milwaukee 1/2" Fuel M18 Impact, large socket collection, wrenches, torx etc etc.

Do you think, given my experience with repairs/jobs so far... that doing DP's on my xi is within reason? Can you rate/compare it to anything I've done above? Bearings were a PITA! I figure after doing those (4x... screwed up both sides so took them apart and installed twice each front wheel... awful!).

I got quotes a couple years ago of $900-$1000 to install. Ridiculous. This sounds almost fun compared to doing some bearings again!

Yah paid prices on some jobs for this car are just stupid expensive. Go for it. It is not hard just time consuming and a bit scary being under the car with the subframe dropped and engine hanging over your head. I would def get the Harbor Freight hoist. It was cheap like $60. It can be done with jack stands and couple of jacks but I just felt cramped doing it that way. Now it is a breeze to drop the front subframe. I always have the jack stands and other stuff spaced out around underneath anyway for back up just in case.

You may end up doing it more than once to tighten something or to remove DP's for warranty or other reasons (or install your new single turbo kit! I wish). Sounds like you have the skills to tackle it. Set aside a whole day and take your time.

I am sure you know this but for others on jobs like this that appear imposing, they are. BUt you read one or more DIY like this one, get under the car and look at it, get it all straight in your head, make sure you have the tools and a safe flat space to work. Also make sure your garage door can close in case you get stuck and have to abort or go chase parts.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by alwayseuro

Anyone had a problem with the clamp that goes around the turbo and the downpipe? The clamp is just a hair to far apart to start threading it.

Did not see this until now. If that is the case the band is not seated properly around the flanges, and/or the 2 flanges are not mating and sealing the way they should. They (flanges) should fit very tightly together (gasket inside) with no space between the two lips. Then the deep part of the V-band clamp fits snug over that, and there should be more than enough length on the bolts to begin tightening.

Also make sure bolts and bands all lines up like they did before, and NOT in a way that would interfere with the wastegates opening and closing.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Yah paid prices on some jobs for this car are just stupid expensive. Go for it. It is not hard just time consuming and a bit scary being under the car with the subframe dropped and engine hanging over your head. I would def get the Harbor Freight hoist. It was cheap like $60. It can be done with jack stands and couple of jacks but I just felt cramped doing it that way. Now it is a breeze to drop the front subframe. I always have the jack stands and other stuff spaced out around underneath anyway for back up just in case.

You may end up doing it more than once to tighten something or to remove DP's for warranty or other reasons (or install your new single turbo kit! I wish). Sounds like you have the skills to tackle it. Set aside a whole day and take your time.

I am sure you know this but for others on jobs like this that appear imposing, they are. BUt you read one or more DIY like this one, get under the car and look at it, get it all straight in your head, make sure you have the tools and a safe flat space to work. Also make sure your garage door can close in case you get stuck and have to abort or go chase parts.

I'm going for it. You described my approach to a T. I study the shit out of each project. Make sure I have everything I need....prepare, take my time and so far I haven't had to call a tow truck or mechanic!

Thanks for the encouragement. Gonna grab the pipes and engine brace.

Nothing better than the satisfaction of a big DIY !!!

Thanks brother!

[ajsalida]

Glad to help, let us all know how it goes.

[SCHLEPPN]

Originally Posted by deadmn1337

I personally can do it in about 3 hours and I'm pretty sure most shops do it in about that time as well.

Quoted at a 3 hour job for mine as well. I'll be going this route, but best of luck to the DIY'ers and thanks for the info in this thread.

[beetle6986]

Originally Posted by SCHLEPPN

Quoted at a 3 hour job for mine as well. I'll be going this route, but best of luck to the DIY'ers and thanks for the info in this thread.

I did mine today. Now I have a check engine light but no codes. I thought the JB4 automatically handled codes due to removal of downpipes.

[Dan A]

I did mine this weekend with the great info in this thread. What a pain. I had to cut the four bolts from the downpipe to exhaust because they were completely corroded and my dremel burned out halfway. Then those damn vband clamps gave me a heck of a time and just the overall tight spaces everywhere. Dropping the subframe was the easiest part.

No CEL for me with JB4. Car is noticeably quicker.

[Dan A]

Well I spoke too soon I guess. I got the Service Engine Soon light this morning. Option 1-3 is to enable auto clear codes in JB4 (1-4 to disable auto clear). But that auto clear clears ALL codes, so it could mask something. I just cleared it (1-2) and I'll just see how long it takes to come back.

Apparently you would need the DP fix if you don't want the code to show at all and you don't want to auto clear codes.

[beetle6986]

Originally Posted by Dan A

Well I spoke too soon I guess. I got the Service Engine Soon light this morning. Option 1-3 is to enable auto clear codes in JB4 (1-4 to disable auto clear). But that auto clear clears ALL codes, so it could mask something. I just cleared it (1-2) and I'll just see how long it takes to come back.

Apparently you would need the DP fix if you don't want the code to show at all and you don't want to auto clear codes.

Yeah, I put mine on auto clear also. So we have to get the downpipe fix? I thought the JB4 handled that?

[deadmn1337]

JB4 only auto clears. So if your car feels weird turn auto clear off and check the codes that pop up. Then go back to auto clear once it is running well. Otherwise get a Cobb and you won't have that problem at all.