[e46m3to335i]

Details on the car first.

2010 e92 335i - 32K miles - Black Sapphire Metallic - Light to moderate swirls/scratches (my guesstamate, lol)

Here's what I'm planning on ordering:

Porter Cable 7424XP
Dual Action 5 Inch Flexible Backing Plate

-1 CCS Orange 5.5 inch Light Cutting Pad
Poorboys SSR 2.5 Medium Super Swirl Remover 16 oz

-1 CCS White 5.5 inch Polishing Pad
Poorboys SSR1 Light Abrasive Swirl Remover 16 oz.

-1 CCS Gray 5.5 inch Finishing Pad
Poorboys EX Sealant with Carnauba

Poorboys World Natty’s Paste Wax – Red

I'm located in Hawaii and don't have the luxury of having a garage to detail my car in. My main reason for choosing PoorBoys products is because from the research I have done, their products are very easy to work with in direct sun. I plan on starting the full detail early in the morning and the sun will be beating down within an hour in to the detail so I feel its pretty important that I use a product that works well in the sun.

My main concern/goal is to remove as many of the swirls and light scratches as possible. Secondly would be working on a glass like shine. The swirls/scratches are not horrible in my opinion but are easily visible at the right angles.

If anyone has any advice please let me know or want to suggest different products that perform better and also work in direct sunlight, please share. I will be placing the order in the next couple days. Also any specific advice on working with Black Sapphire Metallic? I've read certain waxs and sealants can mask the metallic flake in it.

Thanks in advance!!

-Nick

[divisionbell77]

You need to apply the Black Hole Glaze before sealant/wax. Will really make that Black Sapphire flake pop.

Not too sure on Poor Boys polishes, how good or bad they are. I use Menzerna, personally.

I would also go with collenite 845 for the wax over the PB wax. I have used the PB Natty blue and was not overly impressed with how long it lasted.

Not too sure on the PB sealant, either. Never used it myself.

[hasta la pasta 27]

Honest opinion, this is what I did on my BSM and a Lamborghini this weekend.

Meguiars MF cutting pads with d300/M105 mix if paint is bad. If not, d300 finishes incredibly well (almost lsp ready) with very little effort and plenty of working time.

Menzerna PF2500 on grey LC pad

Menzerna 85rd on white pad

Sealed with black fire wet diamond and then colonite 915 will be applied on the lambo today.

Menzerna and Wolfgang products are great but not sure about poorboys. Never used them but have never heard bad things.

[hasta la pasta 27]

Btw, as far as working in sunlight....don't. You are going to kill yourself in that heat. You will heat the tape and leave nasty glue lines plus you will have almost no working time because the product will dry too fast. There is also the possibility you will over heat the paint and pad and the pad can tear apart on you. Don't do it if you do not have the proper working space. A simple canopy is enough. $50 at walmart

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

Btw, as far as working in sunlight....don't. You are going to kill yourself in that heat. You will heat the tape and leave nasty glue lines plus you will have almost no working time because the product will dry too fast. There is also the possibility you will over heat the paint and pad and the pad can tear apart on you. Don't do it if you do not have the proper working space. A simple canopy is enough. $50 at walmart

+1

In the Summer, the surface of the car is generally much hotter than the surrounding temperature. I seriously doubt any product could handle this sort of extreme out in the open and in the tropics.

Canopy is a good idea. Or...... you could always try to to do this at night just as long your neighbors are okay with the noise.

[e46m3to335i]

Thanks for the opinions thus far!!

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

Btw, as far as working in sunlight....don't. You are going to kill yourself in that heat. You will heat the tape and leave nasty glue lines plus you will have almost no working time because the product will dry too fast. There is also the possibility you will over heat the paint and pad and the pad can tear apart on you. Don't do it if you do not have the proper working space. A simple canopy is enough. $50 at walmart

As much as I do agree with you, I dont think I have a way around not working in the sun. I live in a aparment complex and dont have covered parking.

There is a large garage that has multiple bays in it that I have access to but it charges by the hour and is only open 8 hours each day. This will be my first time doing a full detail job and im not sure how long it will take to complete. The first hour would be a complete waste due my cars body being hot from the commute from my place to the shop. That would leave me about 6 hours of detail time, leaving an hour to clean up and be out of the shop.

If 6 hours is enough time for a first timer to complete the job, I would definetly consider doing it at the shop.

-Nick

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

You need to apply the Black Hole Glaze before sealant/wax. Will really make that Black Sapphire flake pop.

Not too sure on Poor Boys polishes, how good or bad they are. I use Menzerna, personally.

I would also go with collenite 845 for the wax over the PB wax. I have used the PB Natty blue and was not overly impressed with how long it lasted.

Not too sure on the PB sealant, either. Never used it myself.

I was looking at the PB black hole also, just couldnt find too many reviews on it. From what I have read, the Natty's red is suppose to be way better than the blue.

[Ridonculous]

Detailing in the sun is really not ideal. I would strongly advise against it. At least try and get under a canopy or something that will shade you and the car.

Trying to do a multiple step process with polishes and waxes/sealants without a shade for the car might end up as a difficult and bad experience which could turn you off from ever trying to detail your car again.

If you really can't find any type of shade to work under, I recommend that you try and use a product like Klasse All In One because it goes on quick and easy as a sealant that also has some cutting power when used with a machine. It won't remove heavy swirls, but it has enough punch to remove light swirls and with some patience, some medium swirls.

I use Klasse AIO when I don't have much time or it's way too hot in Arizona to do an extensive detail.

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by Ridonculous

Detailing in the sun is really not ideal. I would strongly advise against it. At least try and get under a canopy or something that will shade you and the car.

Trying to do a multiple step process with polishes and waxes/sealants without a shade for the car might end up as a difficult and bad experience which could turn you off from ever trying to detail your car again.

If you really can't find any type of shade to work under, I recommend that you try and use a product like Klasse All In One because it goes on quick and easy as a sealant that also has some cutting power when used with a machine. It won't remove heavy swirls, but it has enough punch to remove light swirls and with some patience, some medium swirls.

I use Klasse AIO when I don't have much time or it's way too hot in Arizona to do an extensive detail.

Thanks for the info. I'll look in to that also. What kind of pad should be used with that product to get the results im looking for?

-Nick

[hasta la pasta 27]

I see where you have trouble there. Try and find a used canopy somewhere in your area. If not, grab a beach umbrella and work small areas at a time but 6 hours? No, try and push that to a good 10+ and maybe even close to 20 for a first timer. Also depends on how OCD you are.... I can't stand a smudge

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

I see where you have trouble there. Try and find a used canopy somewhere in your area. If not, grab a beach umbrella and work small areas at a time but 6 hours? No, try and push that to a good 10+ and maybe even close to 20 for a first timer. Also depends on how OCD you are.... I can't stand a smudge

Getting a canopy isnt the issue. The issue is I have vehicles parked on both sides of my car so a canopy wouldnt fit in my parking lot.

I was kinda thinking it would take more than 6 hours. I also have slight OCD, lol.

Looks like I might just take my car to a reputable detailer in my area. Only problem there is I like to do my own work on my cars. FML!

-Nick

[Ridonculous]

Originally Posted by e46m3to335i

Thanks for the info. I'll look in to that also. What kind of pad should be used with that product to get the results im looking for?

-Nick

I used Klasse AIO with a black finishing pad and it does a decent light cutting job. But to get more cut action out of the application, you may want to try a white light polishing pad.

Remember to swap pads frequently to get the best performance out of them. Soaked pads won't do as good of a job and you'll end up with sticky gobs of product on your paint.

[e46m3to335i]

Just thought I would update this thread with what I purchased.

Griots Polisher
5" backing plate
Megs 105/205
PB Black Hole Glaze
PB Natty's Paste Wax- Red
(2) 5.5 LLC Orange pads, (2) 5.5 LLC White polishing pads, (1) 5.5 LLC Gray finishing pad
(3) Cobra MF towels

I wanted to try a wax before I jumped straight to a sealant. If the wax lasts a month or two great, if not I'll change over to a sealant. Got everything shipped for about $250.

I will snap some before and after shots. Wish me luck, LOL.

-Nick

[Otruba_843]

Why does everyone get M105/M205 as their first compound and polish. There is better stuff that is a lot easier to work with. Make sure you read up on how to use M105 properly.

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by Otruba_843

Why does everyone get M105/M205 as their first compound and polish. There is better stuff that is a lot easier to work with. Make sure you read up on how to use M105 properly.

I am in agreement. M105 is not the easiest product to use for a beginner. The dusting and the short work time can overwhelm someone who is new to machine polishing. Here is a very informative video on the Meg compounds.

[e46m3to335i]

Completed most of my car today, well about half, lol. Hood, rear deck, complete passenger side. All I have left is the front and rear bumper, roof and drivers side. Decided to rent a bay at my local auto shop instead of doing it in my parking lot(thank god I didn't do that, lol). Got the bay for 8 hours and needed every bit of it. I would say 100% of the swirls were removed and only very small deeper scratches are remaining.

Here's what I used today:

LC orange pad with M105 / Also tried some PB 2.5 SR
LC white pad with M205 / Also tried some PB 1 SR
LC gray pad with PB Black Hole Glaze
LC blue pad with PB Natty Red Wax

I would have to say that I'm pretty happy with the results for the amount of effort I put in to it, especially the hood(It was such an eye sore with the swirls and water spots).

For everyone that posted before about the M105/205 combo being a bad choice for a beginner. You were RIGHT. The M105/205 as well as the PB 2.5 and 1 SR's were dust monsters.

The only things I liked better about the PB SR products compared to the M105/205 is that the PB stuff smelled better and they were a little easier to remove.

The M105/205 and PB SR's both had a pretty quick working time. I was only able to get about 2 section passes in before the dust storm began.

The PB Black Hole Glaze was a great product as well as the PB Nasty's Red. The glaze was easy to work with and it really made the metallic pop. The wax was also really easy to work with and it was simple to remove.

I would honestly have to say that if I had a product today that was easier to work with and allowed me to get the full 5-6 section passes without a powder fest, it would have been a lot more enjoyable. All in all it was a good day but I'm not looking forward to the rest of the work remaining. Might do it tomorrow or save it for next weekend, lol.

-Nick

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by e46m3to335i

Completed most of my car today, well about half, lol. Hood, rear deck, complete passenger side. All I have left is the front and rear bumper, roof and drivers side. Decided to rent a bay at my local auto shop instead of doing it in my parking lot(thank god I didn't do that, lol). Got the bay for 8 hours and needed every bit of it. I would say 100% of the swirls were removed and only very small deeper scratches are remaining.

Here's what I used today:

LC orange pad with M105 / Also tried some PB 2.5 SR
LC white pad with M205 / Also tried some PB 1 SR
LC gray pad with PB Black Hole Glaze
LC blue pad with PB Natty Red Wax

I would have to say that I'm pretty happy with the results for the amount of effort I put in to it, especially the hood(It was such an eye sore with the swirls and water spots).

For everyone that posted before about the M105/205 combo being a bad choice for a beginner. You were RIGHT. The M105/205 as well as the PB 2.5 and 1 SR's were dust monsters.

The only things I liked better about the PB SR products compared to the M105/205 is that the PB stuff smelled better and they were a little easier to remove.

The M105/205 and PB SR's both had a pretty quick working time. I was only able to get about 2 section passes in before the dust storm began.

The PB Black Hole Glaze was a great product as well as the PB Nasty's Red. The glaze was easy to work with and it really made the metallic pop. The wax was also really easy to work with and it was simple to remove.

I would honestly have to say that if I had a product today that was easier to work with and allowed me to get the full 5-6 section passes without a powder fest, it would have been a lot more enjoyable. All in all it was a good day but I'm not looking forward to the rest of the work remaining. Might do it tomorrow or save it for next weekend, lol.

-Nick

There are products that are easier to deal with but not many could cut as well as M105. Finish better???? That's a different question altogether. M101 and Menzerna FG400 are both products that will cut almost as well as M105. They both will finish better with a longer work time.

Here is a trick to deal with M105. When the product is drying up, spray your pad with a squirt of water ( I like to use distilled water) and immediately go back to work on the same panel. This will reactivate the abrasives in M105. A squirt of QD will also help in product removal whenever the need arises.

I very seldom use M105 straight these days. I tend to mix it with M101 or D300 when I need that extra bite.

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

There are products that are easier to deal with but not many could cut as well as M105. Finish better???? That's a different question altogether. M101 and Menzerna FG400 are both products that will cut almost as well as M105. They both will finish better with a longer work time.

Here is a trick to deal with M105. When the product is drying up, spray your pad with a squirt of water ( I like to use distilled water) and immediately go back to work on the same panel. This will reactivate the abrasives in M105. A squirt of QD will also help in product removal whenever the need arises.

I very seldom use M105 straight these days. I tend to mix it with M101 or D300 when I need that extra bite.

Thanks for the added info.

I was actually thinking about giving the FG400 and the SF4000 combo a try.

When I finish up the rest of my car tomorrow or next weekend I will definitely use your advice of spritzing the pad with some distilled water when the M105 starts to dry up.

Here's a quick pic I took of my hood. Crappy iPhone pic but its night and day compared to how my hood looked before today.



-Nick