[Joebie]

Does anyone know what signals the pins on the disa valve get to make it open or close? Could this signal be spoofed somehow with an external module or power supply or something?

[hassmaschine]

it's a PWM valve, not an on/off voltage. although, a 9v battery would probably work on the bench, I think you can just activate them in INPA.

you can download it for free, I don't see why you wouldn't. Carly is expensive and can't do half of what the factory software can do.

[Joebie]

I checked for exhaust leaks yesterday but couldn't find any. Car still running great so I'll probably just ignore this different sound form the engine unless it starts running badly. If I'm bored sometime I might pull the spark plugs and see if any one cylinder looks different from the rest but beyond that I can't even think of anything to check.


In other news I'm having a hard time stomaching the $750 BPC tune cost.... probably over $800 if it's taxed. There's so many other things I'd rather use $800 on, but on the other hand if I don't get tuned by BPC I'd be wasting my MILVs so I feel conflicted.


I think I'll probably try flashing the 330i tune at some point and seeing if that's enough for me before moving on to the BPC tune. We'll see.

[Joebie]

ktm137 Just chiming back in to say that now my clutch is broken in and it feels great.

My only real "complaint" is that if you push the clutch in and allow a few seconds for the clutch disc to stop rotating, letting the clutch out then causes a small popping noise I'm assuming as the springs on the clutch disc compress and retract.

Really that's the only difference I noticed. That and no helicopter-in-the-distance noises at idle that the DMF used to make.



------------------------------



My engine still sounds like a boxer engine. It is cold here again so I'm not really investigating right now since the car runs fine. Next nice day we get I think I'll pull the spark plugs and look for evidence of a cylinder not firing properly or something. I honestly have no clue what else it could be. I replaced all the spark plugs with brand new, and re-used my old coils that had no issues on my old engine. Maybe an injector issue?

[ktm137]

Thanks for the update - appreciated.

That's the first I've heard of the popping from the other reviews of the SMF kit. It doesn't sound like it's very bad, so I could certainly live with that.

Collecting the list of extra parts needed for my clutch install.

I don't recall - did you replace your rear main seal or input shaft seal? Sounds like if they're dry it's best not to touch them.

Thanks,
Kevin

Originally Posted by Joester

ktm137 Just chiming back in to say that now my clutch is broken in and it feels great.

My only real "complaint" is that if you push the clutch in and allow a few seconds for the clutch disc to stop rotating, letting the clutch out then causes a small popping noise I'm assuming as the springs on the clutch disc compress and retract.

Really that's the only difference I noticed. That and no helicopter-in-the-distance noises at idle that the DMF used to make.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by ktm137

Thanks for the update - appreciated.

That's the first I've heard of the popping from the other reviews of the SMF kit. It doesn't sound like it's very bad, so I could certainly live with that.

Collecting the list of extra parts needed for my clutch install.

I don't recall - did you replace your rear main seal or input shaft seal? Sounds like if they're dry it's best not to touch them.

Thanks,
Kevin

Its not bad at all, just a property of SMF vs DMF.

I didn't dare touch my dry seals. I've heard too many stories of people replacing them preemptively and causing a leak, on the rear main in particular.


For clutch install off the top of my head you'll need

-bell housing aluminum bolts
-starter aluminum bolts (might come with the bell housing bolts)
-SMF clutch kit (flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing)
-clutch alignment tool (not included with clutch kit because fuck you that's why)



you might need

-new throwout bearing guide tube (i didnt replace mine)
-new throwout bearing lever arm plastic pivot bushing (mine was fine)
-brake fluid for bleeding clutch afterwords
-rear main seal and input shaft seal if either is leaky like you mentioned already


special tools you'll need

-E18 inverse torx socket for larger bellhousing bolts (I didn't have this in my set, had to buy separately)
-torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate

[ktm137]

Thanks again!

Yeah, that the kit doesn't include the alignment tool...

That's about the list that I have so far - I'd seen some people replace the lever arm too - but not sure that's necessary.

I'll order the guide tube just to be safe.

Still not sure if I'll change it myself or have a local shop do it - I have the tools, but no lift, so a little harder to do.

Originally Posted by Joester

Its not bad at all, just a property of SMF vs DMF.

I didn't dare touch my dry seals. I've heard too many stories of people replacing them preemptively and causing a leak, on the rear main in particular.


For clutch install off the top of my head you'll need

-bell housing aluminum bolts
-starter aluminum bolts (might come with the bell housing bolts)
-SMF clutch kit (flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing)
-clutch alignment tool (not included with clutch kit because fuck you that's why)



you might need

-new throwout bearing guide tube (i didnt replace mine)
-new throwout bearing lever arm plastic pivot bushing (mine was fine)
-brake fluid for bleeding clutch afterwords
-rear main seal and input shaft seal if either is leaky like you mentioned already


special tools you'll need

-E18 inverse torx socket for larger bellhousing bolts (I didn't have this in my set, had to buy separately)
-torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate

[PORTMOODY]

Originally Posted by Joester

I checked for exhaust leaks yesterday but couldn't find any. Car still running great so I'll probably just ignore this different sound form the engine unless it starts running badly. If I'm bored sometime I might pull the spark plugs and see if any one cylinder looks different from the rest but beyond that I can't even think of anything to check.


In other news I'm having a hard time stomaching the $750 BPC tune cost.... probably over $800 if it's taxed. There's so many other things I'd rather use $800 on, but on the other hand if I don't get tuned by BPC I'd be wasting my MILVs so I feel conflicted.


I think I'll probably try flashing the 330i tune at some point and seeing if that's enough for me before moving on to the BPC tune. We'll see.

They have deals now and again that knocks a bit off.

[Joebie]

A couple of new clues as I try to figure out why my new engine sounds different...


First clue: I put in a bottle of Techron injector cleaner and the V8 lumpiness seems to have faded about 50-75%. I really hope I'm not being placebo-tricked, but I swear it sounds way better now. But it still doesn't sound 100% like my original engine.

Second clue: I filled up my first tank since the new engine went in and I got a hand-calulated 21.35mpg, pretty much EXACTLY what my old engine used to get. So I know the engine is running at least 95% healthy, or I would have expected lower than normal efficiency.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do next. I could swap out my injectors for my old known good injectors since the Techron cleaner seemed to make a difference. I could try a different set of coils. I could ignore it completely. We'll see, not sure what I'll do yet.

[PhaseP]

When I had put the 3stage IM plus the 330i tune from Hassmachine, engine sounded different than I was used to. The sound difference was coming from intake side though, and it was related to different intake and intake paths with the 3IM. Now I got used to it.

In the past before 3IM, each time I had done a full adaptation reset using INPA, intake sounded a bit different, more lively, but only to last short after engine had relearned adaptations.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Joester

A couple of new clues as I try to figure out why my new engine sounds different...

First clue: I put in a bottle of Techron injector cleaner and the V8 lumpiness seems to have faded about 50-75%. I really hope I'm not being placebo-tricked, but I swear it sounds way better now. But it still doesn't sound 100% like my original engine.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do next. I could swap out my injectors for my old known good injectors since the Techron cleaner seemed to make a difference. I could try a different set of coils. I could ignore it completely. We'll see, not sure what I'll do yet.

Wow! I can't believe I just found this post. I just got caught up and I'm pretty impressed with how well you documented all your work.

Have you ever figured out this lumpy sound?

I don't have the 3 stage intake manifold, however I have that "boxer engine" sound but only when cold and during acceleration. Once it's warmed up it goes away. It's not a very lumpy rough feeling, but it's definitely not as smooth as after it's all warmed up. I installed six new plugs and six new Bosch coils, and put 10K miles on them now, but that didn't make any difference.

I had been thinking a stuck ring and reduction of compression in a cylinder, or a possible injector issue. I haven't tried Techron but added a can of B12 chemtool and that didn't make any difference. As far as I can tell the fuel system is fine, no codes or other errors, no leaks, etc. but short of removing and cleaning the injectors I have no way to confirm. Also my idle is pretty buzzy, not rough like the misfire when I had a bad coil, but it makes the interior pieces rattle and it is isn't smooth. I wonder if that's related?

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Wow! I can't believe I just found this post. I just got caught up and I'm pretty impressed with how well you documented all your work.

Have you ever figured out this lumpy sound?

I don't have the 3 stage intake manifold, however I have that "boxer engine" sound but only when cold and during acceleration. Once it's warmed up it goes away. It's not a very lumpy rough feeling, but it's definitely not as smooth as after it's all warmed up. I installed six new plugs and six new Bosch coils, and put 10K miles on them now, but that didn't make any difference.

I had been thinking a stuck ring and reduction of compression in a cylinder, or a possible injector issue. I haven't tried Techron but added a can of B12 chemtool and that didn't make any difference. As far as I can tell the fuel system is fine, no codes or other errors, no leaks, etc. but short of removing and cleaning the injectors I have no way to confirm. Also my idle is pretty buzzy, not rough like the misfire when I had a bad coil, but it makes the interior pieces rattle and it is isn't smooth. I wonder if that's related?

Nah, never figured it out. Seems like its worse when cold for me as well, both engine temp and outside temp. We've had some warmer days lately and its much less noticeable on the warm days than the below freezing days.

And yeah only really happens on light acceleration like 1/3-1/2 throttle.

One of these days I'll get off my lazy ass and maybe swap my injectors out for the known good ones from my old engine. When I put Techron in mine I swear it sounded better almost immediately which makes me lean towards injectors, but honestly I don't know if that'll do anything.

I don't think its anything internal because my new engine gets just as good, if not better gas mileage than my old one and also burns less oil, both of which are great indication that the engine is healthy.

I haven't really done anything more on my car because after you spend a month swapping the engine out you kinda lose the motivation to touch it ever again if you don't have to lol. I'm tired of working on the thing for a while.

Oh and mine idles fine, not rough or buzzing in any way. Idles just like the engine in before it.

Let me know if you figure anything out, I'll do the same for you.

[Joebie]

So I finally got around to installing BMW standard tools on my fiance's laptop with the end goal of flashing 330i tune to my car.

I went to go test my DISA valve actuation but when I go to MSV80, actuation, disa valves... it gives me an error.

Is that because my car doesn't think that disa valves are even present or is there something else wrong?

Like, once i flash a 330i tune will i then be able to test for disa valve operation?

I suspect that I should actually be able to test them now, but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The valves are plugged in of course. Not sure what else could be wrong.

Thanks! I'm totally new to INPA, and all of BMW standard tools so sorry if this is a stupid question.

EDIT: so i found another thread where a person was about to cycle their disa valves on the stock 328i tune. So I'm not sure why I can't do mine. They're definitely plugged in, and inpa is definitely communicating (because i can read and see changing live data just fine).. hmm.

EDIT2: I tried again today to actuate the disa valves and this time it let me do it with no issues. im not sure what i was doing wrong before. going to be flashing the 330i tune soon!

[Joebie]

So I have my intake manifold off to swap DISA valves out, and while I am in there, I swapped the injectors out for the known good ones from my old engine.

I noticed that the cyl 1 injector had a bunch of crud all over it, I haven't got the car back together yet but I'm wondering if this is contributing to the lumpy boxer engine sound Im hearing...

I'll update when I get the car back together!

[Joebie]

Just wanted to update that my car is still running great... ive either fixed or gotten used to the different sound the new motor makes but the car pulls nice and hard especially with the 3IM and 330i tune and i havent had a single issue with anything on the entire car, except for my windshield wiper pump going out (i still need to fix that lol).

I've got about 12,000 flawless miles and counting up every day on the new motor. Really pleased with how well everything turned out.

[Joebie]

Car still running great!

I replaced the pump mentioned in the post above this one, but now ive got a car-on-a-lift light on my dash.

I havent checked the codes yet but I'm 99% sure its because my original battery from 2010 is starting to fail. When i park the car but leave the key in it (like when eating lunch in my car) gives me the battery icon on the dash with a chime. Sometimes when its really really cold out the car has a hard time starting, but has never failed to start. Luckily since its a manual i can just bump start it if it does fail some day soon.

I'll probably buy another BMW battery because if i can get another 10 years out of one i will happily pay whatever they want me to pay for it. I think i called for pricing like a year ago and the dealer said like $215 for a oem BMW battery for my car so that actually sounded surprisingly reasonable.

Cheers fellas!

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Joester

Car still running great!

I replaced the pump mentioned in the post above this one, but now ive got a car-on-a-lift light on my dash.

I havent checked the codes yet but I'm 99% sure its because my original battery from 2010 is starting to fail. When i park the car but leave the key in it (like when eating lunch in my car) gives me the battery icon on the dash with a chime. Sometimes when its really really cold out the car has a hard time starting, but has never failed to start. Luckily since its a manual i can just bump start it if it does fail some day soon.

I'll probably buy another BMW battery because if i can get another 10 years out of one i will happily pay whatever they want me to pay for it. I think i called for pricing like a year ago and the dealer said like $215 for a oem BMW battery for my car so that actually sounded surprisingly reasonable.

Cheers fellas!

Don’t bother with BMW battery. Get AGM battery from Costco. I was thinking the same thing as you. My old BMW (varta) battery lasted almost 7 years. The new bmw battery lasted less than 2.

[Joebie]

Well guys, the road may come to and end here. It's unrelated to my engine problems that started this thread but I went to turn on my AC the other day, and it didn't work.

Took it into the shop (because i dont have the equipment for AC work of course) and its an evap core leak behind the dash quoted $3100 to fix. Even if I did pay for that to be done, no car is ever the same after the dash comes out. Rattles everywhere I'm sure.

Not really sure what I'm going to do. The car can't be worth much more than $6-7k and even that is probably optomistic. It's an 11 year old used BMW with a non-original motor in it replaced by a DIYer. Not exactly a desireable car. Kinda feels like I should just sell it for $5k and find something new, idk. Still contemplating. I love this car but no matter who removes the dash (me or the shop) I cant imagine it will be the same after. And good lord I hate removing interior pieces, the little tabs always break everywhere.

EDIT: BMW shop near me quoted $2450 for genuine parts + labor. That's a bit easier to swallow. Still deciding, idk.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Joester

Well guys, the road may come to and end here. It's unrelated to my engine problems that started this thread but I went to turn on my AC the other day, and it didn't work.

Took it into the shop (because i dont have the equipment for AC work of course) and its an evap core leak behind the dash quoted $3100 to fix. Even if I did pay for that to be done, no car is ever the same after the dash comes out. Rattles everywhere I'm sure.

Not really sure what I'm going to do. The car can't be worth much more than $6-7k and even that is probably optomistic. It's an 11 year old used BMW with a non-original motor in it replaced by a DIYer. Not exactly a desireable car. Kinda feels like I should just sell it for $5k and find something new, idk. Still contemplating. I love this car but no matter who removes the dash (me or the shop) I cant imagine it will be the same after. And good lord I hate removing interior pieces, the little tabs always break everywhere.

EDIT: BMW shop near me quoted $2450 for genuine parts + labor. That's a bit easier to swallow. Still deciding, idk.

Shame! Sorry to hear this. My evaporator leaked about 2 years ago and I found a dealer tech willing to take on cash side work on the weekends. He charged me $600 and I supplied the part ($250). Then I had to take the car for a vacuum and fill at a local shop for $100.

Since I had the repair done I’ve had zero issues with squeaks or rattles. The is no evidence this repair was ever done whatsoever.

I’ll say this though... he sent me some pics during the job and I was very glad I farmed it out. This is the single repair I was not willing to DIY although I know a lot of guys would feel comfortable doing it I just felt the $600 was better to be spent.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Since I had the repair done I’ve had zero issues with squeaks or rattles. The is no evidence this repair was ever done whatsoever.

That's really nice to hear. This is one repair that i would actually trust someone else who's done this before over myself to do properly, I just know I would break every plastic tab that there was available to break.

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I was very glad I farmed it out. This is the single repair I was not willing to DIY although I know a lot of guys would feel comfortable doing it

Kinda my same thoughts. I like working on cars, but not THIS type of work.

If I didn't have it fixed I don't even know what I would replace it with. I dont want a late model BMW with any of their turbo motors, they kinda scare me from a reliability standpoint. And any other car with the interior quality and sportiness of the e90 328i is like $35k+. I told the shop that diagnosed the problem that I will just pick it up after work today and decide what I want to do. I'm still kinda 50/50. I think i'll go test drive some potential replacement cars this weekend and if nothing really tickles my fancy ill just pay the shop the $2500 to have the evap core replaced. Sucks but oh well. This car's been really cheap for me to own so far, even including the full engine replacement. Such a great car even with its faults, or should i say "fault" because this is really the first thing to ever go wrong that wasn't my doing.

[Mantraxalos]

What if you called a few other BMW specialists in the area? Maybe you'd get lucky and find someone for much cheaper that also knows the cars. You know that car inside/out and selling it for 5k perhaps wouldn't be worth what you have put into it. You two bonded all this time! haha

[Joebie]

Okay well over the past week ive test drove a lexus is350, 2 different mustangs, and sat in plenty other cars and nothing fills my needs like the e90 does so i think im just going to pay to have this car fixed. I think ill get m3 control arms and new tires and alignment while im at it. maybe some gloss black kidney grilles to replace my plasti-dip ones to freshen things up a bit.

After test driving and looking at all these cars ive found that i will NOT drive an auto, and I care much more about the interior feel and handling feel of a car over how fast it goes in a straight line. The mustang's were fast as fk but just felt so big and heavy that they just aren't for me. The hood is so long and the turning radius made me feel like i was driving my dad's Ram 3500 truck. The interior on the mustangs is decent, but very American feeling, not very refined.

One car that i didnt get to test drive is the Focus RS. Theyre just really hard to find but i do think i would like the car. Just none for sale near me that i can find.