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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: 335i N54 Front CrankShaft Seal Replacement



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      04-06-2019, 09:05 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svtfast View Post
Will the crank seal removal tool also work on the rear seal? I will be getting a used motor at the end of next week so I want to do as much as I can before I drop it in my car.
I'm not sure. KTC tools does sell a tool kit for the n54 rear seal. Maybe comparing the two one would know.
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      04-08-2019, 09:53 AM   #68
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I'm interested in renting this if its still available. Please contact me at hoda022290 at gmail
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      04-08-2019, 08:17 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svtfast View Post
Will the crank seal removal tool also work on the rear seal? I will be getting a used motor at the end of next week so I want to do as much as I can before I drop it in my car.
No. They are different size tools. I have the tool kit with both the front & rear main seal tools.
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      04-08-2019, 10:13 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
No. They are different size tools. I have the tool kit with both the front & rear main seal tools.
Please let me know if you are still renting/loaning them. Just ordered the parts and they should be coming this week. Hoda022290 at gmail
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      04-09-2019, 05:28 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by hoda022290 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
No. They are different size tools. I have the tool kit with both the front & rear main seal tools.
Please let me know if you are still renting/loaning them. Just ordered the parts and they should be coming this week. Hoda022290 at gmail
I don't rent my tools out. Nothing personal.

Here is a site that does.

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/14023...55-110370RENT/
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      04-09-2019, 01:37 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I don't rent my tools out. Nothing personal.

Here is a site that does.

https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/14023...55-110370RENT/
No problem. Thanks for the info.
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      04-22-2019, 08:01 AM   #73
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A must for this DIY

so, I learned a little something this weekend. You can run the car with out the harmonic balancer on (no belt), as long as you have a least a 30v battery charger/ maintainer. A 60v would be ideal.

I did just that. It did this to see exactly where the leak was coming from in the front crank shaft seal. Low and behold it was coming from inside the seal. The outside & especially where the key holes are on the seal were perfect.

So, I couldn't remember if I oiled the crank or not the last time I did this seal. I made sure that I lightly oiled the crank with a Q-tip several times, and installed the new seal. You MUST do this or the seal might buckle on the inside when you are pushing it in. Putting a rubber seal in Dry, in that tight of an area, is a bad idea and was probably my mistake.


I put a bead of Ultra Grey in the key slots and around the entire seal and let it set up for maybe 15 min. I then used the tool to slowly push the seal in. I took the tool off the crank and then put a good bead of ultra grey around the entire seal like I was caulking a window or door. I even used the little blue caulking tool you can get at HD or Lowe's, so you can get a perfect seal and look all the way around. The key with a product like Ultra Grey is that it's Engineered specifically for car parts that vibrate (cranks). You also, MUST wait 24 hours before you start the car up after you have the new seal in.

Last, I ran the engine like before without any belt on to see if it would leak. No leaks!!!!!! I put her back together and then ran it again for a good 20 min or so and made sure the oil temp hit 200 degrees. No leaks !!!!!
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      05-13-2019, 08:25 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
so, I learned a little something this weekend. You can run the car with out the harmonic balancer on (no belt), as long as you have a least a 30v battery charger/ maintainer. A 60v would be ideal.

I did just that. It did this to see exactly where the leak was coming from in the front crank shaft seal. Low and behold it was coming from inside the seal. The outside & especially where the key holes are on the seal were perfect.

So, I couldn't remember if I oiled the crank or not the last time I did this seal. I made sure that I lightly oiled the crank with a Q-tip several times, and installed the new seal. You MUST do this or the seal might buckle on the inside when you are pushing it in. Putting a rubber seal in Dry, in that tight of an area, is a bad idea and was probably my mistake.


I put a bead of Ultra Grey in the key slots and around the entire seal and let it set up for maybe 15 min. I then used the tool to slowly push the seal in. I took the tool off the crank and then put a good bead of ultra grey around the entire seal like I was caulking a window or door. I even used the little blue caulking tool you can get at HD or Lowe's, so you can get a perfect seal and look all the way around. The key with a product like Ultra Grey is that it's Engineered specifically for car parts that vibrate (cranks). You also, MUST wait 24 hours before you start the car up after you have the new seal in.

Last, I ran the engine like before without any belt on to see if it would leak. No leaks!!!!!! I put her back together and then ran it again for a good 20 min or so and made sure the oil temp hit 200 degrees. No leaks !!!!!
how is the grey seal holding up? i dont feel like paying 50$ for the bmw seal....
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      05-14-2019, 05:42 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maniac0908 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
so, I learned a little something this weekend. You can run the car with out the harmonic balancer on (no belt), as long as you have a least a 30v battery charger/ maintainer. A 60v would be ideal.

I did just that. It did this to see exactly where the leak was coming from in the front crank shaft seal. Low and behold it was coming from inside the seal. The outside & especially where the key holes are on the seal were perfect.

So, I couldn't remember if I oiled the crank or not the last time I did this seal. I made sure that I lightly oiled the crank with a Q-tip several times, and installed the new seal. You MUST do this or the seal might buckle on the inside when you are pushing it in. Putting a rubber seal in Dry, in that tight of an area, is a bad idea and was probably my mistake.


I put a bead of Ultra Grey in the key slots and around the entire seal and let it set up for maybe 15 min. I then used the tool to slowly push the seal in. I took the tool off the crank and then put a good bead of ultra grey around the entire seal like I was caulking a window or door. I even used the little blue caulking tool you can get at HD or Lowe's, so you can get a perfect seal and look all the way around. The key with a product like Ultra Grey is that it's Engineered specifically for car parts that vibrate (cranks). You also, MUST wait 24 hours before you start the car up after you have the new seal in.

Last, I ran the engine like before without any belt on to see if it would leak. No leaks!!!!!! I put her back together and then ran it again for a good 20 min or so and made sure the oil temp hit 200 degrees. No leaks !!!!!
how is the grey seal holding up? i dont feel like paying 50$ for the bmw seal....
No issues. Works great!!
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