[nsjames]

any error code clear should get that done.

it's just gonna work. THere aren't enough mechanical variations in production to matter.

there is an ISTA valve tronic relearn procedure that will relearn the stops, if you just want to be sure.
it takes all of 20 seconds maybe.
I did it when I swapped valve covers and replaced my ESS.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by nsjames

any error code clear should get that done.

it's just gonna work. There aren't enough mechanical variations in production to matter.

there is an ISTA valvetronic relearn procedure that will relearn the stops, if you just want to be sure.
it takes all of 20 seconds maybe.
I did it when I swapped valve covers and replaced my ESS.

I've never played with BMW tools or any of the computer side aspects of my car but I'm in this deep now so maybe it's time to learn.

I've always really wanted oil temp on my dash instead of MPG.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Joester

How do I do this?

That's a reset of the adaptations & errors.

Otherwise you don't normally have to do anything. It will calibrate it as soon as you turn on the ignition.

[Joebie]

Headers on, wiring harness on, all ready to go back in with the exception of flywheel and clutch.

[iahawkeye]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

That's why I bought some rubber mats for winter haha

Oh I have 'em too, but that road salt is sneaky

Basically it melts off my shoe and runs down off the gas pedal, takes like 5 mins to clean vs. all morning when I didn't have nice winter mats.

OP - awesome to see someone do all this as a DIY, I love it!

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by iahawkeye

OP - awesome to see someone do all this as a DIY, I love it!

Thanks.

Honestly it's easier than doing the valve cover gasket with the engine in the car.

Engine swap is lots of work, but it is really easy work.

I really can't wait to get this thing running, tuned, and see what these MILVS and 3IM are all about.

[PORTMOODY]

no plan for headers huh?

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by PORTMOODY

no plan for headers huh?

I don't like having to gamble on my inspection passing or not every two years or else maybe.

Also the smell is nasty and they're expensive.

[rick100]

afe headers you dont have to worry about inspection or smell. Price may be a problem at around 900 $ though

you know another mod that is on the cheap side and apparently makes a whole lot of difference is the differential swap for shorter gearing , I believe you have RWD so is a straight swap and I m pretty sure there is not need for tuning. You seem to be pretty handy so a used differential is like 400$ and labour is on you

A member here was running low 5s 0-60 FBO, although you would still be missing headers

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by rick100

afe headers you dont have to worry about inspection or smell. Price may be a problem at around 900 $ though

yeah, screw that. That's 10% of the price of the car.

Originally Posted by rick100

you know another mod that is on the cheap side and apparently makes a whole lot of difference is the differential swap for shorter gearing , I believe you have RWD so is a straight swap and I m pretty sure there is not need for tuning. You seem to be pretty handy so a used differential is like 400$ and labour is on you

my used differential was $130 shipped! Install was easy.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1403625

[Joebie]

Can anyone help me with torque values for my Valeo 835115 SMF and clutch install?

Below are the values I found in the Bentley, but I've also read many varying torque values from respected members of this forum and others.

Also since it's a valeo clutch and hardware, maybe it should differ from the Bentley? Or should I just follow the Bentley even if its not an OE clutch kit?

Just want to make sure I do this right.

[hassmaschine]

torque values should be the same. It's really based on bolt sizes, which shouldn't change (especially at the crank).

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

torque values should be the same. It's really based on bolt sizes, which shouldn't change (especially at the crank).

How about the torque + angle for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts? What if the valeo uses steel bolts?

[hassmaschine]

They are all definitely steel bolts. I would expect the torque angle to be the same.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

They are all definitely steel bolts. I would expect the torque angle to be the same.

I'm used to only seeing torque + angle values on aluminum bolts which is why I was curious. I guess the oe ones are steel too? I can't really remember.

[hassmaschine]

yeah, they are TTY bolts (stretch type). Aluminum bolts are really only used where there is magnesium.

[Joebie]

Clutch is in, motor is on the lift now instead of the stand.

89ft lb on the flywheel was correct but the 11ft*lb + 90 deg seemed like a bit much so i went 11ft lb + maybe 45 degrees. I felt like the bolts were gonna break if I kept going to 90 degrees.

Still planning on getting the motor back in tomorrow, but we won't get started until like 5 or 6 pm so im not sure if it'll be started tomorrow. I'm going to try my best.

[hassmaschine]

Honestly, I would just do the torque to what they say in the book. If you break a bolt on the stand, well, it sucks but - just get another one? otherwise you could have the flywheel assembly fly apart while driving the car.. and that would suck much, much worse.

The bolts are supposed to "yield". That means, they actually stretch into the "plastic" zone of the material (steel). As long as you're within 10% of that 90 degree angle, it should be good enough.

The really cool thing about the stress/strain yield curve (when it comes to steel anyway) - is as long as you don't reach the fracture strength point, the curve "flattens" out at the ultimate strength. That means you don't have to torque it to *exactly* 90 degrees - you just have to get close. And if you really screw up and reach the fracture point, well, you know what that feels like..

Some may frown on this, but at 11 ft-lbs, I wouldn't even bother with a torque wrench. I would make it "snug-tight", which is the actual purpose of that 11-ft lb value. You can put more than 11ft-lbs on a 1/4" ratchet with your pinky finger, so it's really not a lot. And a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench, at least the garden variety kind most of us can afford - is probably off by at least 10%. So getting an exact 11-ft/lbs is impossible anyway.

"snug-tight" is the torque value used, btw, for 95% of bolts in steel building structures, even in high seismic zones like California. If there is a specific torque required, it's specified after "snug-tight" metric, which basically just means both surfaces are in full contact and the bolt cannot be removed by hand (without a wrench). That is essentially what the 11 ft-lbs is really meant for.

Beyond that metric, you're trying to get the bolt to the "flat" part of the stress/strain curve, which means the bolt stretches (in the "plastic" zone of the material). It feels bad, but is actually how they are designed in the first place.

Cliffs notes: Give it another 30 degrees, and I bet you'll be fine.

P.S. aluminum is a shitty material for bolts. Yeah, I get why BMW did it but - with steel bolts, don't sweat it too much. With aluminum, you'd better follow those instructions to a "T".

P.P.S. here's a stress/strain curve for a typical steel material, to give you a visual idea of what I mean:

[Joebie]

I hold a 4 year degree in mechanical engineering and my day job is designing and building machines so I understand all these principles perfectly.

However my decades of wrenching on things made me feel as though the bolts were going to break.

They've definitely yielded. I could feel them yield when I tightened them. You probably know exactly what I'm talking about but when you're cranking down the bolt you can feel it get harder and harder to turn and then it plateaus when it starts to yield, and I felt that.

I just think if I go further I'm risking fracture which is why I stopped where I did.

EDIT: I agree with your "snug tight" rule. For TTY I barely ever use a torque wrench. Just nice-n-snug + 90 degrees or whatever the spec is.

[hassmaschine]

Fair enough - yeah, I get what you mean.

I guess another thing to think about is the pressure plate bolts are much smaller than the flywheel bolts. And it probably has lock pins too, that hold most of the force (rather than those little bolts).

[Joebie]

I'm having trouble finding the torque specs for the big aluminum ears that bolt to the engine on one side and the engine mounts on the other.

Each mount has four aluminum bolts, probably M12 if I had to guess from memory.

I bet the torque is something like 18ft + 90deg but I can't find it in the bentley.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Joester

I hold a 4 year degree in mechanical engineering and my day job is designing and building machines so I understand all these principles perfectly.

However my decades of wrenching on things made me feel as though the bolts were going to break.

They've definitely yielded. I could feel them yield when I tightened them. You probably know exactly what I'm talking about but when you're cranking down the bolt you can feel it get harder and harder to turn and then it plateaus when it starts to yield, and I felt that.

I just think if I go further I'm risking fracture which is why I stopped where I did.

EDIT: I agree with your "snug tight" rule. For TTY I barely ever use a torque wrench. Just nice-n-snug + 90 degrees or whatever the spec is.

This is how I felt doing the head studs. Holy hell 90* + 180*... after the first 90* they felt good and a small amount of yield. The next 180* felt like pure stretch like I was pulling threads :X